Now for some controversy!  It is currently fashionable amongst wine-types like myself to deride wines, particularly from California, that have too much alcohol, too much glass (I love referring to the giant, ultra-heavy bottles used by certain winemakers as “ego-glass”), and too cool of a name or label.  But who decides what “too much” is?   I am reminded of an episode of WKRP in Cincinatti called “Clean Up Radio Everywhere” (finale for season 3 in 1981)  about a religious organization that blackmails radio stations who play songs it feels are objectionable – but Andy saves the day when he shows the Jerry Falwellesque frontman to be a hypocrite who makes decisions about what is objectionable on the fly, and on his own.  I’m as guilty as the next sommelier when it comes to wines like this: I often unfairly write them off, while secretly admitting that they’re enjoyable to drink.  Orin Swift Cellars wines fit all of the above characteristics, but are better than just enjoyable to drink: they are stunning.

The label is a picture taken by iconic rock music photographer Greg Gorman of Vince Tofanelli’s grape and mud smeared hands with “Papillon” written across his knuckles.  As far as over-the-top labels go, this is actually pretty cool.  The irony of Papillon (French for butterfly) both as a name for this big, burly wine, and as what is written across Vince’s filthy, brawny knuckles bears at least a minute of mirthful reflection (though at least one source says that the wine, and photograph, are called papillon because it was the first word that came to mind that fit across vince’s knuckles).

That brings us to Vince Tofanelli, who’s stunning vineyards outside of Calistoga are the source of most of David Phinney’s (owner/winemaker of Orin Swift Cellars) wines.   The vineyards are organically farmed and the vines are old (many planted with the original planting in 1929) and head-trained.  Tofanelli vineyards are best known for their Zinfandel, but this sure is good.

This blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, 7% Malbec and 2% Petite Verdot isn’t subtle.   This is a big, rich wine, but it has layers and layers of complex flavor, beyond cassis and blackberry fruit, there is tar and smoke and spice and entire worlds of smells and flavors to explore.  And despite this blitzkrieg of flavor, there is admirable balance in the form of silky tannins and some welcome acidity.  This is awfully good wine!   While it goes wonderfully with a dry-aged steak, this is a great opportunity to drink a big wine with some of the new American cuisine that has some sweetness to it.  Try cocoa rubbed bison, or even a piece of the soon to arrive Yukon River Salmon (only the fattiest salmon will stand up to this).  Drink now – 2020 +