Beaujolais Nouveau, and the hype and crappy wine surrounding it, have done unimaginable harm to the reputation of not only Beaujolais, but the Gamay Noir Grape which calls Beaujolais its home.  Most of the Beaujolais that we see in the states is mass-produced and innocuous, at best.  Because of this, I thought I didn’t like Beaujolais.  Then I discovered Pierre Chermette and his wife Martine’s Domaine du Vissoux, and realized that I had just been tasting the wrong wines.  These wines reflect the magical combination of Granite soil, moderate sunny weather, and the Gamay Noir Grape that is why Beaujolais is, despite what is produced by certain wineries named Duboef, a wonderful wine region.

Here is what Peter Weygandt, who imports these wines says:

I search out wines as naturally made as possible; but only if this contributes to the wine being better. Domaine du Vissoux may just be the most perfect expression in my whole portfolio of what I seek, for this very ability to be natural and great, at once. First natural. How’s this: Pierre Chermette’s yields are so low and the grapes so naturally ripe that he does not chaptalize. He uses only indigenous yeasts (no “banana yeast” culture, a la Duboeuf). Then a traditional, longer fermentation, aging in oak foudre and bottling with no filtration, and without adding any sulfites, in most vintages. It is as natural a Beaujolais as one could have had in a café in Lyon in the 40’s. As for quality, Domaine du Vissoux is the Beaujolais at Willi’s in Paris, Cave la Grande, and just about every Bar-A-Vin in Paris.

Just-picked wild strawberries and the essence of savory (the herb) and wet stones are what I think about when I remember the flavor of this wine.  It is the perfect foil for charcuterie of all sorts, but is particularly glorious with pickled or brined meats (in france, calves tongue is the magical pairing, but pastrami is great also).  Though it is tradition to drink these wines a little cooler than normal reds, don’t get them cold.  about 5-10 degrees cooler than the room is the magical temperature.  Drink now – 2011.