Aleš Kristancic, the iconic maker of the exceptional, and somewhat strange, wines his family’s estate, Movia, in Brda, Slovenia, was asked by his U.S. importer, Domaine Select, to make an “entry level” white that would be an easy introduction to Slovenian wine for their customers. The wine would be under their Quattro Mani label, but made from Movia grapes and at the Movia winery. The results are this delightful, and altogether satisfying light, aromatic white.

Movia has been producing wines since 1700, and the Kristancic family purchased it around 1820. The vineyards lie along thin, and very desirable strip of vineyard land that seperates Collio in Italy from Slovenia. It has been tradition here, one that is upheld in EU law, that many of the vineyards may choose whether to call themselves Italian or Slovenian based on where the wine was made, rather than what side of the very unclear border the vineyards lie in. In addition to the great history of farming and winemaking, the Kristancic family was an early adopter of Biodynamic viticulture and winemaking principles, and is one of the longest-standing completely biodynamic producers in the world.

The grape chosen for this wine was Tocai (the spelling on the label is a phonetic one), the most commonly planted variety in Collio, and one that is capable of producing subtle wines of very high quality if it is cared for properly, and handled gently. It shouldn’t be confused with Tokaj (a type of wine) from Hungary, or Tokay (an old French name for Pinot Gris that is no longer legal). Grapes for this wine come entirely from Movia’s Exto Gredic vineyard, and the wine is fermented in large vats, then bottled immediately to preserve its delicacy. After bottling, it was aged for six months before release to let the flavors integrate and settle. 3,000 cases were made.

This is a wine that sings with light food, think sole, steamed vegetables, maybe even tempura, or as a great aperitif. Drink Now – Dec 2009.