Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc is a rarity in and of itself. Less than 10% of the total production of Chateauneuf is white, and less than one third of that is good. You see, white wine making in warm climates is rarely a success using old-fashioned winemaking techniques, and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, like much of the rest of the Southern Rhône, is one of the last strongholds of the traditionalist winemakers France. Because of this, and because only a select few people get to try them, the good white wines from the area don’t often get the respect that they deserve. This is one of the good ones.

Though the winery has been passed through the family (originally the Tacussel Family, now the Maurel Family) since the turn of the last century, along with the 41 ha of the best vineyard in Châteaneuf-du-Pape, all located on the venerable plateau of La Crau, it is only in the last few years that Clos Saint Jean has raised itself into the top ranks of producers. It started with a family tragedy: in the winter of 2001, Guy Maurel passed away, and left the vineyard to his two young sons. They didn’t feel that they were ready to take over, and hired Philippe Cambie, a skilled oenologist, famous for work in Châteauneuf and throughout the Rhône at producers such as Les Clos du Caillou and Domaine des Escaravailles. Together they decided to sell off all of the grapes that were severly damanged in the deluge of 2002, and make no wine. They followed up with some of the best wines from the region in 2003, and haven’t missed since.

Nearly 10% of all Châteauneuf-du-Pape is white, but only 2.5% of Clos St. Jean’s 41 ha are planted to white varieties. The result is that only about hundred cases of this wine are produced. The wine is a blend of equal parts Grenache Blanc, Clairette, and Roussanne, and sees some ageing in new French oak.

Full of waxy citrus and stone fruit character, and beautiful minerality this is a white that deserves to be served cool rather than cold (think 55 to 60 degrees F instead of 40) and ought to be decanted before drinking. Try it with cooked shellfish, cream sauces, mushrooms, and anything that has earthy or salty flavors. Drink now – 2011, or 2017 – 2030 (these wines always shut down and taste dead for about five years beginning 3 or so years after they are released, but then come back as something altogether different and more profound).