Off The Beaten Path All Red - April '09

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Wines shipped to Extraordinary Wines From Off The Beaten Path All Red subscribers in April 2009

 

2006 Vinas de Vila Tinto Fundacion, Cruz de Piedra, Mendoza, Argentina

Monday, July 20th, 2009

Vinas de Vila Tinto Fundacion Label

Those of you who have been with us for a while will probably notice that I finally sent out a repeat this week.  It was bound to happen, because of my unscientific method of picking wines: I send the wines that I have tasted and gotten really excited about in the past month.  At least  I repeated a good one!  By the time I noticed, it was too late to change the shipments.  For those who have been with me since April when I sent this out last, I will send you a bonus bottle next month to make up for this.  In the meantime, enjoy this one.

The Vila family has been growing grapes in Argentina since colonial times. In an industry dominated by Italians and Basques this old Castilian family is a minority. Their vineyards cover several thousand acres. They have always been growers, not winemakers. Much of their acreage is under contract to large Bodegas, including some multinationals. Some grapes are sold on the spot market, crushed and sold as unfermented juice or (a small percentage) made into wine for bulk sale. All of the vineyards lie in the Cruz de Piedra area of Mendoza.

Six years ago the children (Pepe, Miriam, Susana & Sebastien) decided that they wanted to make and bottle wine. An impressive 400 acres of the best family vineyards were withdrawn from contract and turned over to them. Fernando’s son Pepe is the general manager. One daughter, Miriam, is in charge of sales. Last year’s winemaking team is gone, with Mónica Calderón replaced by a talented young graduate of the University of Mendoza, Sebastien Onofrio. Sebastien is ably assisted by yet another Vila sister, the energetic and dedicated Susana, while Miriam goes to another winery to work (at least for a Vinas de Vila Winerywhile) as a winemaker outside the family.

The emphasis here is squarely on value. The Vilas are interested in good and fine, not great wine. What sets them apart from many other mid-size Argentine Bodegas is their absolute passion for quality and the investment capital to make it happen.

Before the new project, winemaking for bulk sale took place in a large shed with barely adequate equipment. To make wine worthy of bottling, a vast old brick building was renovated and filled with modern equipment and oak, including both barrels and innerstaves.

Tinto Fundación is one of the world’s great wine values. It is composed of 50% Bonarda, 25% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. It is aged in a combination of 3 – 4 year old American oak barrels and innerstaves.   This is a great wine for hard to semi-soft cheese, stew, or pizza.  Drink now – 2012.

2007 Mas Val Grieux Picpoul de Pinet, Languedoc, France

Wednesday, May 20th, 2009

Val Grieux Label

This is a great example of what happens when a winemaker who is used to having the best – in vineyards, equipment, and grapes – falls in love with a relatively humble place.  Picpoul is, by all accounts, a non-descript grape that makes thin, pleasant wines from all over the Languedoc, but is slightly more interesting in Pinet.  Truth is, Picpoul just needed someone to love it, and, as in this example, it was waiting to come out of its caccoon and turn into a beautiful butterfly, recognizable only because it kept its name.

Jean Louis Fougeray is a Burgundian with a passion for terroir.  His family estate, which he was deeply involved in running for years, is Domaine de Fougeray de Beauclair, and has been producing some of the most delightful, and delightfully under the radar, Burgundies for the last 15 or so years.   Having purchased some vineyard land in 1999 around the commune of Pinet, near the Bassin de Thau, in Languedoc, he spent much of his time then commuting weekly between Burgundy and the Languedoc. In the early 2000s he constructed cellars and a house while he produced experimental cuvées to select the best slopes and soil types for his Languedoc wines. He now resides in the Languedoc full time while his daughter Laurence and her husband Patrice Olliver oversee the operations in Burgundy.

The Picpoul de Pinet is vinified in demi-muids, large wood barrels, to give a more “burgundian” feel to the wine. As a result, it’s unlike any other wine from the region, benefitting from a creamy, honeyed and buttery texture, with dry, floral, and fruity flavors and perfect balancing acidity.  Try it with rabbit, artichokes, sea breem (loup de mer), or a host of other spring and summer delights: it’s hard to go wrong.  Drink now – 2010

2006 Valli Waitaki Vineyard Pinot Noir Otago, New Zealand

Tuesday, April 21st, 2009

Valli Waitaki Vineyard LabelThis is a very cool project I came across a few months ago at a tasting.  Rather than pontificate, I’m going to reprint the bio of the winemaker and the vineyard manager and a profile of the vineyard from the website.  The wines are as delicious as Pinot Noir can be, and though the critics disagreed with me slightly, this was my favorite of the three they made in 2006.  I have also reprinted the fiche technique below, for details on winemaking etc.

Grant Taylor is possibly New Zealand’s most awarded Pinot Noir winemaker, earning a string of gold medal and trophy accolades throughout his long career.  However, none surpasses winning the trophy for ‘Best Pinot Noir’ at the world’s largest wine competition, the London International Wine Challenge, twice – a feat achieved by no other winemaker in the world.

Grant established Valli in 1998 after eighteen years of winemaking experience in the USA and New Zealand, the philosophy behind which was to highlight the differences in three Otago sub-regions:  Bannockburn, Gibbston and Waitaki.

Waitaki VineyardBorn in Otago, Grant was educated at Lincoln College in Canterbury.  In 1980, he helped establish Pine Ridge Winery in Napa, California and worked there as assistant winemaker until 1986.  In 1987, he helped build another Napa winery, Domaine Napa, and worked there as head winemaker until 1993.

Lured back to Otago in 1993 by the promise of large and plentiful trout, cleaner air and less people, he signed on as winemaker for Gibbston Valley Wines.  At that time, only 20 hectares of grapes were planted in Otago; today there are over 1600.

As a pioneering winemaker in Otago, Grant has produced the first vintages for many of the region’s well-known labels including van Asch, Felton Road, Mt Difficulty, Carrick, Rockburn (aka Hay’s Lake), Mount Edward and Bald Hills.

Grant has kept his American ties along the way, helping to establish Oregon’s renowned Pinot Noir producing winery, Archery Summit, in 1995.  He has consulted there for most vintages since.

In 2006, Grant left Gibbston Valley to concentrate solely on Valli.

Having now completed 40 vintages, he looks forward to the next 40 and how much knowledge they will bring in helping to understand Otago’s potential.Duncan has worked in the Central Otago wine industry for almost 10 years, primarily developing and managing vineyards. He has also worked a number of vintages with Grant at Gibbston Valley Wines, as well as one of Oregon’s iconic Pinot Noir producers, Steve Doerner of Cristom.

Duncan Billing is never happier than when turning the fruits of his labour in to wine. When the harvest finishes, he signs up for winemaking and another couple of months of 80+ hour weeks.

Waitaki- North Otago is New Zealand’s newest and most exciting wine growing region. Like Burgundy, the soils are limestone based, and after only one commercial vintage, we are already seeing great perfume and minerality in the wines. The Waitaki Valley is slightly cooler than Central Otago and perhaps should not be cropped as heavily. Consequently, Valli’s vineyard is close planted at 5000 vines per hectare with new early ripening clones from Dijon and Pommard.

(This part I wrote) The wine is a beautiful, and beautifully balanced Pinot Noir.  The fruit sings new world, but the lightness and elegance screems Burgundy.  Woo-Hoo!  This is a perfect wine for Salmon, Roast Chicken, Wild Mushrooms and just about any non-smoked cut of pork.  Drink now – 2016. (end of part I wrote)

2006 Valli Waitaki Vineyard Pinot Noir
Total Production: 250 cases
Harvest Date: 29 April & 7 May 2006
Bottling Date: 23 March 2007

VITICULTURE
Vine Clone: UCD 5, 115
Vineyard Location: Grants Road and Dr.’s Creek vineyards, Kurow, North Otago
Climate: wet in 2006
Vines planted:
Soils: Limestone based soil spread through river gravels
Elevation:
Rainfall: 350 mls
GDD: 970
Yield: n/a as were young vines with low production
Brix: 23.0

WINEMAKING
Fermentation: 18% whole bunch/72% de-stemmed; peak fermentation temperature 29 deg C;
40% new oak, 40% one year, 20% two year; post fermentation maceration time: 8 days
Alcohol: 12.5%
pH: 3.36
TA: 8.8 g/l
Fining: none
Filtering: coarse (through 4 micron filter)

TASTING NOTES
Nose: Very open and perfumed aromatics, raspberry fruit with dusty/earthy herb notes in the
background
Palate: Waitaki Pinot Noirs are not about impact or density, they are “lightness of being.” This
wine has clear acidity which keeps the wine light on the palate but delivers great length, carrying
raspberry fruit flavours and minerality on for what seems like forever.

NV Plan Pegau Lot #2006 Vin de Table Francais

Tuesday, April 21st, 2009

Plan Pegau LabelLaurence Feraud is the genius behind Domaine du Pegau Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  She is a brilliant vigneron and winemaker, and is one of the forces responsible for the great improvement in quality in the Southern Rhône over the last 20 – 30 years.  However, her Châteaneuf is expensive and can be really difficult to get your hands on (it’s a perennial top-scorer in the wine rags).  Lucky for us, Laurence isn’t satisfied with a single success.  Here is what Dan Kravitz, her US importer says of her (and this wine):

Laurence Feraud is a force of nature, a little larger than life. She has more ideas in a day than many people have in a lifetime. What is most impressive is that she manages to act on most of them. Then when changes need to be made, they are made immediately with no backward glances. Not only is everything always in flux; Laurence, Paul and Mark are all overwhelmingly focused on the flavors of the wines they produce, and correspondingly underwhelmingly focused on the technical aspects. Blends are subject to change without notice. One cuve containing a mix of varietals may be substituted for another with a different mix if it is going to taste better. Calculation of the percentages of varietals involved is on the back burner. In fact it may never be done.

The wines are mostly Grenache, with a fair amount of Carignan and Syrah, and probably some Merlot, maybe Cabernet and maybe still a drop of Madeline Angevine. Much of it was aged for half a year in small oak barrels that are older than dirt. Total possible production of Plan Pegau is a maximun of about 4000 cases a year, of which 1500 – 2000 can come to the U.S.

One of the great things about this wine is that it has the character of the Châteauneuf, even if it isn’t quite as massive.  It’s a great  introduction to here truly unique style of wines.  Fruit was sourced from numerous vineyard sites in the Southern Rhone (Nimes, as well as vineyard sites owned by Pegau, near Chateauneuf). the composition of the wine is 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Carignan, and 10% kitchen sink blend of other varietals (including Mourvèdre Merlot, Alicante, and Cabernet). The wines was fermented in  temperature controlled concrete vats and aged 6 months in very old French oak barrels.  It is Unfiltered.

Try this wine with White Fish (trust me), Roast Pork, Vegetables with Bacon, and hearty stews.  Drink it now – 2012.

2006 Hendry HRW Zinfandel Napa Valley, California, USA

Tuesday, April 21st, 2009

Hendry LabelHendry Ranch is an amazing place.  The 117 acres of gorgeous vineyards located between 160  and 290 feet in elevation on the Western edge of the Napa Valley, just North of Carneros.  The soils is stoney and dry, and particularly inhospitible.  The Hendrys will Hendry's location in Napatell you that the majority of the work that they do is in the vineyards, and the results of their efforts definitely show.  Hendry wines have a breathtaking structure, and a very clear minerality.  They are both hedonistic and intellectual at the same time.

This is what The Hendry’s say about this wine:

Grapes for the HRW series wines come from our vineyard estate, as they do for all of our wines. The grapes we use for the HRW are individual blocks or barrels that for one reason or another do not have the complexity we require for our Hendry label, but are very nice every day drinking nonetheless (and too good to sell off to someone else). In some vintages we make one variety, in others, several, and sometimes we make none at all. The production is generally small. This wine is a blend of the barrels that were not included in the Block 7&22 Zinfandel or Block 28 Zinfandel.

Hendry VineyardThe alcoholic fermentation was completed in approximately ten days in closed stainless steel fermentation tanks. When the wine was fermented completely dry, it was pressed to barrel for malolactic fermentation. Aging was twelve months in French oak barrels of which approximately 10% were new, with the remaining barrels 1, 2 and 3 year old barrels from our zinfandel program. This wine has a round mouthfeel and blackberry and floral aromas. Spicy, smoky currant and berry flavors on the palate with just enough soft tannins to do battle with dry-rub barbecued ribs or chicken. The tannins are substantial but not overly drying. The alcohol is 15.4%.  1050 cases produced.

That this is the wine that doesn’t make it into their premier zinfandels only says how amazing of a vineyard this is, because this is a delicious wine, and it is a wine that is a little easier to drink right away than the more austere wines from the single blocks.  Try this with BBQ ribs, Carne Asada, Grilled Chicken, and even Salmon on the Grill.  Drink now – 2012

Hendry Ranch Map

Click to download a Hi-Res Map in PDF

2006 The Gatekeeper Shiraz South Australia, Australia

Tuesday, April 21st, 2009

The Gatekeeper Label Simon Hackett has a small production from his own vines which he then expands with the fruit that he sources primarily from around the McLaren Vale, but also from the Barossa.

This wine comes from vineyards in Lower Riverland, Coonawarra and McClaren Vale.  It is aged in 600 Liter,  2 year-old American oak hogsheads (big barrels), and fermented bone dry.  The wine is spicey, and dry, with smooth tannins and just enough vanilla, cocoa and toast from the oak to perfectly frame the raspberry and blackberry fruit.  It goes to show that Australia can still make the best reasonably priced red wines in the world.

Try this wine with Pulled Pork, Bulgogi, Burgers, Blue Cheese, Pork Belly, or Breakfast.  Drink now – 2011.

The Gatekeeper Bottle

2006 Puydeval VdP d’Oc

Tuesday, April 21st, 2009

Puydeval LabelHere is a wine that epitomizes my goals with Extraordinary Wines From Off the Beaten Path.  It’s not so much that the Languedoc is such an unusual region, but that this is a wine who’s entire reason to be rests in the idea that Cabernet Franc, a grape that isn’t supposed to be in the Languedoc, can make great wines there.  The results speak for themselves.  But even so, because no one is used to Cabernet Franc in this region, the wine sells for far less than it’s quality would suggest.

This is When brilliant young winemaker Jeff Carrel came to Languedoc many growerssolicited his services. Dominique Menjucq was impressed enough to offer equity in his substantial Domaine in return for first call on Jeff ’s time.

One of the things that impressed Jeff about Dominique was a shared conviction that Cabernet Franc could be better in Languedoc than either Merlot or Cab Sauv. Puydeval rouge is 60% Cabernet Franc, 30% Syrah, 10% Merlot. The wine is aged 8 months in one and two year old barrels. The result is polished, ripe and balanced.

This wine is full-bodied, with a great richness, and just hints of Cabernet Franc’s gamey bell-peppery character.  Try this wine with Hamburgers, Roast Lamb, Blue Cheese and richly flavored dishes made with Farro.  Drink now – 2012, maybe longer.

2006 Convento Muri-Gries St-Magdelener, Suditrol, Italy

Monday, April 20th, 2009

Ancient door at Murie-GrisThe monastery that houses the Muri-Gries winery dates from the end of the 11th century, the Earls of Bolzano bid a stronghold to be built in the center of the former “Cheller” (literally cellar) where “Gries” is to be seen in these days. This fortress was expected to counterbalance the influence from the neighbour city of Bolzano carried out by the bishops of Trento.

Meinhard II of Görz-Tirol (13th century), who ruled this independent county, dwelled himself in the stronghold of Gries, which had been enlarged through a belfry erected itself some time before and preserved in the bell tower until today. Earl Leopold, who similarly ruled the county of Tirol, passed the fortress over to some homeless Austin canons, who had lost their monastery in “Au” because of a flood. It was therefore turned into a monastery. In the year 1416 a two nave gothic church was erected instead of the old chapel, but since 1788 the purpose of that room changed altogether, as a new baroque church was built.

Vineyards looking towards the monasteryIn the year 1845 Muri-Gries was born, as Benedectine monks from Muri in the Swiss county of Aargau were forced to leave their monastery and moved to one in Gries, which had meanwhile been quitted.  It was these Monks who turned the old Gothic Cathedral into a winery.  By the turn of the 20th century, they had a large portfolio of wines including Sankt Magdalener, Kretzer, Lagrein and Pinot Grigio.  Up until 1968 the winery had been selling mostly bulk wine, but that year they began to improve the quality by bottling the wine at the monastery and storing it in the ancient cellars.

Sudtirol Sankt Magdalener or Alto-Adige Saint Madellena DOC is an ancient area in Northeastern Italy that has been famous for the medium-bodied reds from Schiava (often blended with Lagrein, as it is here) grapes.  The wines are bright and a little rustic, with tons of juicy, tart fruit and even more character.  Mussolini called Sankt Magdalener on of Italy’s great wines, and though no one really has since then, it’s a really neat region.

This wine is roughly equal parts  Schiavo and Lagrein, with the Schiavo providing smooth, bright, high-strung fruit, and the Lagrein providing deeper, darker flavors.  This is a perfect wine for Roast Chicken, Meat Loaf and Pork Chops.  Drink now – 2011.

Extraordinary Wines From Off The Beaten Path – April ‘09

Monday, April 20th, 2009

As I write this, the sun is shining and my windows are open . . . woohoo!  There’s nothing more invigorating than a warm spring day.  As I look at the stunning group of wines we have for this month, I think that I must have been anticipating the weather, because they difinitely have a vivacious feeling about them, and they all go well with spring-time foods.

As has gotten to be our routine, you will be treated to a journey around the world this month, with wines from Portugal, Australia, Washington, France,  Italy, Argentina this month.  If you have all reds, there won’t be any Portugal or Washington, but instead you will get to try a great wine from California alongside a non-vintage French wine made by one of France’s greatest winemakers.

For all of the details, follow this link

If you have all reds, follow this link

The Next Big Thing – April 2009

Monday, April 20th, 2009

This month is all about pleasure.  Wines that despite, or because of, their lofty goals, simply taste great.  And though all of these could age for quite a while, they are all delicious now, begging you to try them out, and see why they are so special.

Each wine is made by a producer who is incredibly particular, and at least a little anachronistic.  The results are wines with serious quality, and real character.  You will enjoy wines from Paso Robles and Otago in New Zealand, and a stunning white from Washington, or if you receive all reds, a stunning red from Provence.   Get ready to be wowed.

To see the wines, follow this link

If you had all reds, follow this link

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