The Next Big Thing All Red - April '09

...now browsing by category

Wines shipped to The Next Big Thing All Red subscribers in April 2009

 

2004 Château des Baumelles Bandol, Provence, France

Wednesday, April 22nd, 2009

Baumelles BottleIn 1998, Michel & Louis Bronzo, the famous pair behind La Bastide Blanche in Bandol, purchased another famous old property in the area, Château des Baumelles.  The immediately went about re-vamping the vineyard, using organic farming techniques, and banning tractors.  They lowered the yeilds to a nearly unthinkable 30 hl/ha (this is lower than many Grand Crus in Burgundy).  The results have been oustanding, even if they have gone somewhat unnoticed in the press.  They release the wines late to allow extra barrel and bottle time, and to mellow out what can be hard edges from Provençal Mourvedre and Grenache.

The soil here is argilo-limestone underneath argilo-marl.   The vines average 28 years old and are bush-trained in the traditional Provençal fashion.  The wine is aged in 400-liter oak foudre (large barrels).  The wine is made up of 86% Mourvedre and 14% Grenache.   In 2004, 835 cases were made .

Bandol has always been a bit of a mystery to the rest of the world.  The wines are structured above all else (many of the lesser wines seem to be all tannin and acid and no fruit).  By all means, this is a powerful wine, but it has a lot of other things going on as well: pepper, smoke, blackberry liqueur, and more than a little bit of dusty dried herbs that are all wrapped around steely tannins and an intense acidity.

The structure here demands hearty, fatty meats, but the intensity also demands flavor.  So try this with Flank Steak, Herb Roasted Lamb, Olives, or Rabbit (actually, there’s this provencal dish that consists of rabbit stewed with lardon (bacon), olives, garlic and red wine that would be perfect).  Drink now – 2014 (some say to wait longer, but I have always felt that while bandol holds for a long time, it doesn’t often improve beyond 10 years of it’s birth).

2006 Valli Waitaki Vineyard Pinot Noir Otago, New Zealand

Tuesday, April 21st, 2009

Valli Waitaki Vineyard LabelThis is a very cool project I came across a few months ago at a tasting.  Rather than pontificate, I’m going to reprint the bio of the winemaker and the vineyard manager and a profile of the vineyard from the website.  The wines are as delicious as Pinot Noir can be, and though the critics disagreed with me slightly, this was my favorite of the three they made in 2006.  I have also reprinted the fiche technique below, for details on winemaking etc.

Grant Taylor is possibly New Zealand’s most awarded Pinot Noir winemaker, earning a string of gold medal and trophy accolades throughout his long career.  However, none surpasses winning the trophy for ‘Best Pinot Noir’ at the world’s largest wine competition, the London International Wine Challenge, twice – a feat achieved by no other winemaker in the world.

Grant established Valli in 1998 after eighteen years of winemaking experience in the USA and New Zealand, the philosophy behind which was to highlight the differences in three Otago sub-regions:  Bannockburn, Gibbston and Waitaki.

Waitaki VineyardBorn in Otago, Grant was educated at Lincoln College in Canterbury.  In 1980, he helped establish Pine Ridge Winery in Napa, California and worked there as assistant winemaker until 1986.  In 1987, he helped build another Napa winery, Domaine Napa, and worked there as head winemaker until 1993.

Lured back to Otago in 1993 by the promise of large and plentiful trout, cleaner air and less people, he signed on as winemaker for Gibbston Valley Wines.  At that time, only 20 hectares of grapes were planted in Otago; today there are over 1600.

As a pioneering winemaker in Otago, Grant has produced the first vintages for many of the region’s well-known labels including van Asch, Felton Road, Mt Difficulty, Carrick, Rockburn (aka Hay’s Lake), Mount Edward and Bald Hills.

Grant has kept his American ties along the way, helping to establish Oregon’s renowned Pinot Noir producing winery, Archery Summit, in 1995.  He has consulted there for most vintages since.

In 2006, Grant left Gibbston Valley to concentrate solely on Valli.

Having now completed 40 vintages, he looks forward to the next 40 and how much knowledge they will bring in helping to understand Otago’s potential.Duncan has worked in the Central Otago wine industry for almost 10 years, primarily developing and managing vineyards. He has also worked a number of vintages with Grant at Gibbston Valley Wines, as well as one of Oregon’s iconic Pinot Noir producers, Steve Doerner of Cristom.

Duncan Billing is never happier than when turning the fruits of his labour in to wine. When the harvest finishes, he signs up for winemaking and another couple of months of 80+ hour weeks.

Waitaki- North Otago is New Zealand’s newest and most exciting wine growing region. Like Burgundy, the soils are limestone based, and after only one commercial vintage, we are already seeing great perfume and minerality in the wines. The Waitaki Valley is slightly cooler than Central Otago and perhaps should not be cropped as heavily. Consequently, Valli’s vineyard is close planted at 5000 vines per hectare with new early ripening clones from Dijon and Pommard.

(This part I wrote) The wine is a beautiful, and beautifully balanced Pinot Noir.  The fruit sings new world, but the lightness and elegance screems Burgundy.  Woo-Hoo!  This is a perfect wine for Salmon, Roast Chicken, Wild Mushrooms and just about any non-smoked cut of pork.  Drink now – 2016. (end of part I wrote)

2006 Valli Waitaki Vineyard Pinot Noir
Total Production: 250 cases
Harvest Date: 29 April & 7 May 2006
Bottling Date: 23 March 2007

VITICULTURE
Vine Clone: UCD 5, 115
Vineyard Location: Grants Road and Dr.’s Creek vineyards, Kurow, North Otago
Climate: wet in 2006
Vines planted:
Soils: Limestone based soil spread through river gravels
Elevation:
Rainfall: 350 mls
GDD: 970
Yield: n/a as were young vines with low production
Brix: 23.0

WINEMAKING
Fermentation: 18% whole bunch/72% de-stemmed; peak fermentation temperature 29 deg C;
40% new oak, 40% one year, 20% two year; post fermentation maceration time: 8 days
Alcohol: 12.5%
pH: 3.36
TA: 8.8 g/l
Fining: none
Filtering: coarse (through 4 micron filter)

TASTING NOTES
Nose: Very open and perfumed aromatics, raspberry fruit with dusty/earthy herb notes in the
background
Palate: Waitaki Pinot Noirs are not about impact or density, they are “lightness of being.” This
wine has clear acidity which keeps the wine light on the palate but delivers great length, carrying
raspberry fruit flavours and minerality on for what seems like forever.

2005 Copain Les Copains James Berry Vineyard Paso Robles, California

Tuesday, April 21st, 2009

Les CopainsCopain has been a favorite producer of mine for quite a while.  And though Vigneron and co-founder Wells Guthrie gets a fair amount of press and often really great scores from the critics for his incredibly naturally made wines, they seem to stay just below the radar of most of the winedrinking world.  These are wines that are cutting edge not because of technology, but because of lack of it.  Wells is a winemaker who believes that if you have grapes from great sites that are treated well – which for him means organically grown with complimentary flora and fauna and not allowed to get overripe – you don’t need to make interventions in the winery.  As a result, in stark contrast to many other winemakers,  his wines are minimally oaked, and he never makes chemical interventions.

Is this the right way to make wine?  Now you can decide for yourself.  Though most of the Copain wines are produced from either Syrah or Pinot Noir, this is a rare Rhône style blend from an exceptional vineyard in Paso Robles.

Here is what Wells Guthrie says about James Berry Vineyard:

James Berry VineyardThe vineyard is located in Westside Paso Robles out Hwy 46 about 12 miles from the ocean and Hearst Castle, as a crow flies. The proximity to the ocean helps regulate the high temperatures often associated with Paso Robles and is further aided by tremendous diurnal temperature variations. Peak temperatures can reach the low 100-degree range yet dive into the low 50s at night, allowing for the vines to recover. These large temperature fluctuations between high and low create a very desirable “sugar to acid ratio”. This, coupled with the high-lime, calcareous soils which do not allow for a lot of potassium absorption, keep pHs lower, even at elevated sugar levels, resulting in ripe fruity wines with a balanced underlying acidity. This vineyard’s attributes aid in my syrah winemaking technique of including 50% to 100% whole cluster, dependant on vintage.

The 2005 Les Copains is a cofermted blend of equal part grenache and mourvedre with roughly 15% syrah. The syrah was fermented utilizing 75% whole clusters and a portion of the grenache had 50% stems included.  Aged in 600 Liter oak demi-muids.

A seriously classy wine.  Lots of floral characters and blackberry fruit, accompanied by deep spice and earthy notes.  Beautiful acidity and grainy tannins balance the rich fruit perfectly.    Try it with Kasu Black Cod (trust me), Pork Belly and Southwestern Cuisine (up to moderately spicey).  Drink now – 2018.

The Next Big Thing – April 2009

Monday, April 20th, 2009

This month is all about pleasure.  Wines that despite, or because of, their lofty goals, simply taste great.  And though all of these could age for quite a while, they are all delicious now, begging you to try them out, and see why they are so special.

Each wine is made by a producer who is incredibly particular, and at least a little anachronistic.  The results are wines with serious quality, and real character.  You will enjoy wines from Paso Robles and Otago in New Zealand, and a stunning white from Washington, or if you receive all reds, a stunning red from Provence.   Get ready to be wowed.

To see the wines, follow this link

If you had all reds, follow this link

SEO Powered by Platinum SEO from Techblissonline