This month we have a delighful quaffing bubbly from Italy, some very serious Champagne, and a Cava (yes, a Cava!) that has serious class. Lot’s of good stuff to drink here.
To learn about the wines, click here
August '09
...now browsing by category
All of the wines shipped for all of the clubs in August 2009
The Champagne and Sparkling Wine Society – August 2009
Sunday, August 30th, 2009Extraordinary Wines from Off the Beaten Path – August 2009
Tuesday, August 25th, 2009August 2009 Extraordinary Wines from Off the Beaten Path
Another great month! This time, we journey to Spain, Portugal, Austria, and Germany for the red and white crowd, and to Spain, Portugal, Austria, South Africa, Argentina and France for the all red crowd. We see the last of the summery wines, and the beginning of wines that deserve to be drunk in the fall.
One note on the website: I seem to have exceeded the capacity of my databases, and it is acting a little funny. Therefore it is imperative that you follow the link in this email to access your notes. I hope to have the situation under control in the next few days, but until then, you can find all of the wines in the club under the following links:
For Extraordinary Wines from Off the Beaten Path, click here
For Extraordinary Wines from Off the Beaten Path All Red, click here
As always, drink your selections in good health.
Until next month,
Jake
2005 Benegas Don Tiburcio Maipú, Mendoza, Argentina
Tuesday, August 25th, 2009
This is a great story, so I am going to quote the winery website and tell it from the beginning:
“Tiburcio Benegas, together with Silvestre Ochagavía (Chile) and Agoston Harszthy (California), are considered the first three pioneers in the wine industry in America. Convinced that it was imperative to achieve excellence in their products, Benegas brought the first French grapevines ever introduced in Argentina, along with the most advanced technology available at the time”
The Benegas family has a long a tradition in the wine history. In 1883, Tiburcio Benegas bought a vineyard called “El Trapiche”, located in Godoy Cruz, Mendoza, formerly the department of San Vicente (the Patron Saint of vineyards). It was on this land that Tiburcio built the Trapiche winery, which eventually would attain international fame and prestige.
“In 1886, there were only 6.653 hectares of vineyards in Mendoza. Tiburcio Benegas, the Governor of the Province at the time, was also a pioneer in viticulture and viniculture. In order to promote this activity, he obtained a loan of 5.000.000 “pesos oro” from Europe, with which he founded the Bank of Mendoza, and set to the construction of dams and rubblework ditches in the Mendoza River to increase the vineyard plantations.”
“Tiburcio Benegas, an example of hard work and optimism, managed to become the owner of the largest vineyard of the province, in the department of Godoy Cruz. His fellow countrymen, the people of Mendoza, took pride in his property, “El Trapiche”, and it soon became a place of interest to those visiting the Province and the vineyards”. Tiburcio was the founder of the wine industry in Mendoza. He promoted the first irrigation system in the province, he crossed the Andes on a mule and then traveled by ship to Bordeaux to increase the scope of Argentine winery, by introducing fine varieties such as Cabernet, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Out of the experience gained on each of his trips to France, he developed oenology in Mendoza, mainly regarding the production of quality wines: he brought oenologists from Bordeaux, imported oak casks from Nancy and the most sophisticated equipment available in those days. It is not surprising, then, that “Trapiche” was acknowledged as the best Argentine wine during the first seventy years of the XXth century.
Pedro and Alberto Benegas continued with the family enterprise, following Tiburcio´s steps. Pedro, who had studied oenology in Bordeaux, gave the rising industry a new boost at the beginning of the century. He stayed on his father´s and in Mendoza in charge of the vineyards and the winery, while Alberto, his brother, organized the administration and marketing of the wines throughout the country, from Buenos Aires. Thus, Benegas Hnos. was founded in 1908, starting a lineage that would last up to the present.
After a trip to France, Pedro Benegas came back with a more comprehensive and modern view regarding the management of vineyards and quality wine making. Until then, the Trapiche wines were made with some sophistication but fell short of the expectations aimed at by the Benegas. Pedro and Alberto decided to incorporate new brands for more demanding consumers, so they began to produce Fond de Cave, Broquel, Puente Viejo and Vezelay. Pedro Benegas incorporated the typical features of the Bordeaux wines and the blends were definitely inspired by French tradition.
Pedro Benegas died in 1943 and his nephew, Federico A. Benegas Lynch (1916-1997), who had joined the company in 1938, settled in “El Trapiche”, Mendoza, to work in the winery. At the beginning of the 70’s, the family company dissolved and the assets were sold. The Trapiche winery was demolished, and the vineyards were divided and sold. Pulenta bought the wine brands and Seagrams, the champagne brands. The only one that remained in the family was BENEGAS, owned at present by Federico J. Benegas Lynch.
Federico A. was the last winemaker of Benegas Hnos SA. With his twenty-eight years´ experience, and seeking to continue the production of fine wines in the most efficient way, entered into partnership with Camilo Gancia, to manufacture wines under the trade name “Federico Benegas”. Gancia contributed the vineyards and winery; Federico, the technical supervision. This partnership continued until the early 90’s.
Federico J. Benegas Lynch was born in the winery in 1951. He grew up by his father’s side, sampling wines and working in the vineyard. This atmosphere awakened in him a deep love for his land and its wine. He had always been close to his father and eventually, he joined the enterprise, doing what he loved most with a solid conviction. In 1997, he became a member of the Board of Directors of Peñaflor and Trapiche wineries, which were then under the control of Luis A. Pulenta and DLJ. He resigned to his position in March 2001.
It was in 1998 that Federico J. resumed his activity as winemaker when he settled on the 40 hectares of Finca Libertad, part of the old Benegas’ family property, where the vineyards are 20 to 80 years old. He started the production of quality wines, fully convinced that he would achieve the level of excellence of his ancestors. This restoration period is the landmark of the beginning of a new era in the Benegas family, who had always devoted to the art of vines from the very roots.
This wine is named in honor of the founder of the family wine history, and pretty much the initiator of the Argentine wine industry. It’s a blend of Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in oak for 18 months total, (11 months in separate lots, and 9 further months after the blend is made). A full-bodied, super-tasty Bordeaux blend, drink with Lamb, Roast Beef, or just about anything meaty and roasty, the gamier the better. Drink now – 2015
2008 Porcupine Ridge Syrah, Coastal Region, South Africa
Tuesday, August 25th, 2009
In 1652 Jan van Riebeeck, a Dutch surgeon, eager to find a way to relieve the symptoms of scurvy, suggested to the Dutch East India Company that the Cape Province of South Africa would be suitable for growing grapes. Nine years later the first wine was pressed from grapes grown on cuttings brought from France.
The prime grape growing areas of South Africa spread out from Cape Town, and include the Paarl (‘pearl’ in Afrikaans), which to the east encompasses Franschhoek (‘French corner’) home of the first French Huguenot settlers. Boekenhoutskloof, its homestead dating from 1784, is located in the Franschhoek Valley.
The owners of Boekenhoutskloof have revamped an ancient cellar, and have installed state-of-the-art equipment as well as a quality maturation cellar. Marc Kent is the winemaker for the Boekenhoutskloof wines as well as the range of wines called Porcupine Ridge.
There are approximately 20 hectares of vines at Boekenhoutskloof – 25% of which are planted to white varieties: Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Viognier; and 75% of which consist of reds: Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. All vineyards employ extended double perold trellises. The soil types are not homogenous, ranging from deep, rich alluvial soils along the river’s edge to iron ridge clay on hillsides with areas of decomposed granite.
The fruit is predominantly sourced in Malmesbury, with a small portion of Wellington fruit also used. Certain parcels are naturally fermented, but most are inoculated with selected Rhône strains. About a third remains unoaked, the balance is matured in old French barriques and on French oak staves.
Raspberry, mulberry, and licorice dominate the palate and nose of this medium-full bodied wine. Try it with poultry, salmon, and smoked meats. Drink now – 2013.
2005 Domaine de la Berangeraie Cuvée Maurin, Cahors, France
Tuesday, August 25th, 2009
I love Cahors! These are powerful, rustic wines, and compared to Argentine Malbec, a very different expression of the grape. Though they used to be called “black wines” because of the intensely dark color that own-rooted Malbec provided them, they rarely attain that level of darkness since they are mostly grafted onto other rootstocks to prevent phylloxera. That said, the combination of fig, black plum and cassis, almost buried in a mix of earthy, herby, prickly other aromas, quickly allays any fears one might have about these being shy or delicate wines.
From Peter Weygandt (the importer of Domaine de la Berangeraie)-
In 1971 Andre Berenger came to Cahors from Provence with his wife Sylvie, who is originally from Champagne, and planted their vineyard near Grezels, on the red clay/iron stone soil known as Grezes. Their two children, Maurin and Juline not only joined them in the family business but so too have their respective spouses. Thus the three couples all work together and do everything in this twelve hectare domaine themselves – the pruning, the treatments of the vines ( all organic) and the harvesting all by hand (a disappearing practice in Cahors where harvesting is now done almost exclusively by machine).
Moreover, Juline, Maurin, and Maurin’s wife, Marlene, are all graduates of Oenology school as oneologists, diplomes . With this background, not surprisingly, their cuvees follow family names – Juline, a blend of 80% Malbec and 20% Merlot is the most elegant, with ripe fruit and soft tannins. It is aged solely in concrete (no oak) and bottled unfiltered for us. The Maurin is 100% Malbec, also concrete aged and unfiltered. In 2000 there is a new cuvee, Marlene, that is aged one-half in one year old barrique and the grapes come from one of their best parcels. These wines are proof that hand made artisnal wines of character, yet accessibility, are still being made in Cahors.
This wine typical of good Cahors, in that it sings with rustic intensity. Firm tannins and great acidity frame the fruit and earth into manageable, if somewhat unruly package, and one really gets a sense that this wine is from somewhere! Try it with a steak, roast duck, or an earthy dish of roasted root vegetables with plenty of herbs and fat. Now – 2015.
2008 Manfred Tement Temento, Steiermark, Austria
Tuesday, August 25th, 2009
Steiermark (or Styria) in Austria, is a wine region that doesn’t get much play outside of Austria, but it should. It sits on the Slovenian border, with roughly the same latitude as Burgundy, has similarly chalky soils to Sancerre, and is the Austrian home of Sauvignon Blanc. The other grape that performs exceptionally well here is the misnamed Welschriesling, which isn’t Riesling at all, but a grape native to Slovenia, Hungary and Austria that produces a rich, nutty wine with just enough acidity. Sauvignon Blanc is breathtakingly steely here, so the Welschriesling plays a useful role in softening up a bit, and adding some contrast to the cirtussy/minerally Sauvignon Blanc character with its nutty, peachy, baked fruit character.
Manfred Tement is considered, in Austria, to be the best grower in Steiermark. His vineyards sit along the Slovenian Border, and some are actually just over the border, in the foothills of the Julian Alps. Very much a family business, Manfred and his wife Heidi, Grandmother Edina and children Stephan and Armin all take part in the grape growing and winemaking. But this is one of those wines for which I hesitate to give you more information, because all you need to know is in the bottle.
About 60% Welschriesling, 30% Sauvignon Blanc, and 10% native Austrian varieties, such as Gelber Muskateller and Roter-Gewurztraminer, this wine is the perfect mix of crisp acidity and bright fruit, with rich, almost honeyed flavors. It’s a joy to drink, a goes with nearly any food. My favorite combos are halibut, or other substantial fish, simply prepared, just about any cheese (except blue), anything with leeks and cream (really, try this). Drink now – 2012
2007 Rudolf Müller Shine Riesling, Pfalz, Germany
Tuesday, August 25th, 2009
Founded in 1919, Rudolf Müller was originally one of the most respected negociant wine firms in the Mosel Valley. Recently, the firm has expanded its reach with long term acreage contracts throughout Germany, and continues to make incredibly good Riesling that is a great value.
Shine refers to Germany’s northern latitude, and the fact that grapes wouldn’t ripen without the reflected sunshine from the river itself (this is why hillsides along river banks are so valued in Germany).
And while there is definitely tradition behind this group, they maintain quality by using the latest technology in each of their state of the art wineries that purposely close to the source of the grapes. One example is that the wines never see the inside of oak barrels (in Germany, many traditional firms employ very old (neutral), very large oak barrels for fermenting and ageing their wines, but Rudolf Muller uses only glycol-jacketed stainless steel tanks that are temperature controlled via computer to ensure that the wines are as clean and fruity as possible, and that they have control over all parts of the winemaking process.
This wine, made from 100% Riesling from an assortment of vineyards in the Pfalz, jumps out of the glass with aromas of stone fruit, pears, apples and limes, and though it has not insubstantial sugar, it has great acidity to back it up. If you’re wondering what to drink it with, get some Chinese, Thai or Indonesian takeout, and all will be clear (thought it’s also a great front porch wine). Drink now – 2010.
NV Broadbent Vinho Verde, Minho, Portugal
Monday, August 24th, 2009
Vinho Verde is a classic wine of Northern Portugal. The name refers to the unripe grapes from which it is made (Verde = Green). While both red and white Vinho Verde are made, the red is a seriously acquired taste, while the white is the one that most of us not accustomed to consuming the wines will love. Characteristics of Vinho Verde are: low alcohol, serious spritz, and a pleasant, herbal, tree and stone fruit flavor and aroma. Vinho Verde is usually non vintage, and meant to be consumed within a year of production.
The classic grapes for Vinho Verde are Loureiro for aroma, Trajadura for body, and Padernã (also called Arinto) for acidity. Many of the fancier Vinho Verde are made from Alvarinho (Albariño in Spain), but these are for export, and designed to compete with Rias Baixas from Spain which is just over the border to the north. The region is cool and moist, with a Maritime climate influenced mainly by the Atlantic Ocean. As a result of this, and to better utilize the land by planting other crops underneath, the vines here are planted on pergolas made of Granite and wires, or even trained to tree trunks with other crops planted underneath.
Broadbent Selections is a project of Bartholomew Broadbent, who headed up the US importer for the Symington Family’s brands Port and Madeira Brands (Fonseca, Warres, Taylor-Fladgate etc). Bartholomew is also the son of Michael Broadbent, the famous Master of Wine who headed the Christie’s wine auction department from 1966 onwards. In Bartholomew went out on his own, and founded Broadbent Selections, with the aim of producing his own port, and importing Ferreira Port. The company has expanded, and they now focus on family owned wineries, and their own labeled products.
Spritzy and crisp, Vinho Verde is the ultimate in refreshment, and pretty hard to stop drinking. Try it with olives, fish fritters, or anything deep fried. Drink NOWWW!!!
2006 Weingut Buchegger Blauer Zweigelt Weitgasse, Kremstal, Austria
Monday, August 24th, 2009
My favorite Austrian red wines come from the Blauer Zweigelt grape, sometimes referred to as Zweigelt. The flavors are vibrant and fruity, and the texture is almost creamy. The resulting wines seem to be what you would get if you poured some really good Zinfandel into some really good Pinot Noir.
Weingut Buchegger has been growing grapes in Gedersdorf, near Dross, in the Kremstal since 1893. Walter Buchegger, the current winemaker and owner, was born in 1968, and runs the estate with his girlfriend Silke Mayr. Beginning in 2006, the wines were made in a newly completed winery in Dross. To find Kremstal on a map of Austrian Wine Regions, click here.
Nearly all the vineyards are still located in Gedersdorf. 11 hectares – which is about 25 acres – are planted with mainly two varieties, Gruener Veltliner and Riesling. A small portion is reserved for Chardonnay, Zweigelt and Merlot. The top sites are the vineyards named Moosburgerin, Pfarrweingarten, Tiefenthal, Gebling and Holzgasse, which combine more than 70 percent of the total acreage. Many of the vineyards were planted before the current craze for clonal selection had taken hold, and therefore have mixtures of different clones, and many obscure clones that add complexity to the final wines.
The soil in the vineyards is mainly Loess, which the vineyard team is careful not to compact, and occasionally treats with manure and compost to keep high levels of positive biological components intact. The grapes are handled gently from harvest to bottling, and the resulting wines are delicious.
This wine was fermented in tank, then aged in used French oak barriques. Rich cherry and berry fruit, and that signature creamy mouthfeel make this wine and easy pleasure, but there’s lots more there for those who want to dig deeper, lots of fun stuff. Try this with anything breaded (schnitzel comes to mind), charcuterie, mushroom dishes. Drink now – 2011
2005 Bodegas Castaño Hecula, Yecla, Murcia, Spain
Monday, August 24th, 2009
Ramon Castaño Santo began purchasing parcels of old vine Monastrell (a.k.a. Mourvedre or Estrangle Chien) in 1950, going against the popular notion that the vineyards weren’t worth owning. Bodegas Castaño now owns over 400 ha of prime vineyards, which cover ten percent of the plantings in the entire DO of Yecla. In 1980 he constructed a state of the art winery and began bottling wines from his extensive holdings: again against the grain, because everyone thought that Monastrell was so easy to sell on the bulk market that it wasn’t worth making it well, much less bottling it oneself. Now his son Daniel Castaño runs the operation, and the quality and success of the wines is Ramon’s answer to the neighbors who doubted him.
Murcia, and Yecla in particular, are the center of Monastrell production in Spain, and the wines continue to provide amazing depth and value. This wine, made from 100% Monastrell, from the 35-60 year old, unirrigated vines of the Las Greusas Vineyard that surrounds the winery, is aged half in tank to preserve the fruit, and half in French Oak barrels to 
add complexity.
This full-bodied red has explosive aromas and flavors of blue plum, prune, and cherry, rounded out by spicy hints of oak, and a well-delineated structure. Try it grilled pork, roast lamb or blue cheese. Drink now – 2014.
2005 Quinta da Garrida, Dão, Portugal
Monday, August 24th, 2009
There’s more to Portuguese wine than just Oporto, and though it’s been true for centuries (since long before the invention of modern Port in the 18th century, it’s been hard to get excited about the wines . . . until recently. Portuguese wine has traditionally been grown in people’s back yards, often in quantities of a single row of grapes, or just a few vines. The result of this has always been that wineries had little control over their grapes because of the hundreds of people growing them. Over the last twenty years that has begun to change, as larger concerns have begun purchasing vineyards, and planting new grape sources. No one has ever doubted the potential for great wines from Portugual, it’s just taken a while to get there.
Caves Aliança is one of these larger concerns, and has had giant success in many regions across the country by planting large vineyards and placing modern winemaking facilities nearby, so as to have complete control over their grape sources. Quinta da Garrida is their property in Portugal’s Dão region. They own about 112 ha of land, of which 80 are planted to indigenous red and white grape varieties, the rest are left fallow. The wines from Quinta da Garrida are made by Francisco Atunes, the famous Portugese head winemaker for Caves Aliança, with the help of Pascal Chatonnet, the famous Bordeaux Enologist.
The grapes in Quinta da Garrida are Jaen, Tinta Roriz (a.k.a. Tempranillo) and Touriga Nacional. The wine spends twelve months in a combination of 80% French and 20% American barriques. The result is a robust, slightly rustic wine, with intense red fruit, fresh herb, smoke and spice flavors. In the Dão, they drink it with sausage, lamb, cured hams and hard cheese. Doesn’t sound bad to me at all. Drink now – 2013.
2006 Gramona Grand Cuvée Cava, Penedès, Spain
Monday, August 24th, 2009
I am not a Cava fan in general. In fact, it’s the one sparkling wine I won’t order by the glass as a rule. And based on the average Cava, I don’t think that I am being overly snobby. It’s not that Cava is bad, in fact it’s almost never bad . . . just completely boring. There are a couple of exceptions, but nothing that has ever gotten me excited. Two weeks ago, during an intensive Spanish Wine Class put on by the Spanish Government, my opinion was changed forever. I tasted a number of delightful Cava’s, but was totally enchanted by Bodega Gramona’s selections.
Gramona was founded as Celler Bastlle in 1881, the same year that Pablo Picasso was born. Since then, Gramona has been owned by five generations of the Family. (In 1913, Bartomeu Gramona Pursell married Pillar Batlle Duran, the heir to Celler Batlle, and the firm became known as Gramona). But despite their long history, the Gramona family is committed to using the best of modern technology and know-how alongside the traditions, and commitment to quality that has been passed down through the generations. The results are some of the most exciting sparkling wines I have tasted in a long time.
The family grows classic Cava varieties (Xarel-Lo, Macabeo, Parellada) International varieties (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir) as well as a few others that they are experimenting with at their estate vineyards of La Plana, Mas Escorpí, El Serralat and La Sarona in Penedès, Gran Cuvée is made from equal parts Xarel-Lo, Macabeo and Chardonnay. It is aged 24 months on the lees, giving it a full fifteen months more than the minimum required by law for Cava, and a resulting more complex flavor.
This is a light, elegant, aperitif sparkler, but has enough oomph and complexity to go well with fish and shellfish, and even chicken. Also, try it with asparagus or artichokes. Drink now – 2012
2007 Alfonso Boeri Ribota Moscato d’Asti, Piedmont, Italy
Monday, August 24th, 2009
The winery’s press material says this of the wine’s name: “In our local dialect “Ribota” means to be together with friends, eating, drinking, having fun in enjoyable company. For us, this word expresses the spirit of our Moscato.” It’s the perfect description of this wine, I could almost stop here and that would be enough. But there’s so much more to tell.
Moscato d’Asti is a DOCG encompassing not only the province of Asti, but also the province of Cuneo, which stretches to the edge of the Barolo vineyards. The wines are sweet, but not overly so, and have a maximum pressure of 1.7 atmosphers (as opposed to 6.5 for Champagne) giving them a soft effervescence rather than a powerful bead like Champagne. They are made exclusively from Moscato Bianco, which is identical to the aristocratic Muscat Blanc à Petite Grains of France. These wines are also surprisingly low in alcohol, coming in at about 5.5% abv. Moscato D’Asti is a superior appellation to Asti DOCG (formerly Asti Spumante) which is made from less ripe grapes, has higher alcohol and often has much more sugar (not all natural) and is fully sparkling, like Champagne.
Establish in 1890 by Alfonso Boeri, the current winemakers are his great grandsons Georgio and Roberto Boeri. They plan on passing the responsibilities to their children, Giulia, Renata and Perpaolo when they are ready. Though they produce a range of Classic Piemontese wines, the estate is especially known for Barbera and Moscato d’Asti, both of which much sought after in Italy.
1000 cases of Ribota are made each year, and as it continues to wine award after award in Europe, only a few make it to the United States. The wine has a gentle bead, and a delicate sweetness that perfectly accompany the explosive aromas and flavors of stone fruit, pears, fresh herbs, honey and flowers. This is THE wine to try with fresh fruit desserts, but is also an excellent aperitif, that will go with anything salty, and lots that is sweet (think salumi, prosciutto, figs, melons, peaches, cheese). Drink now – 2010.
NV Besserat de Bellefon Cuvée des Moines Rosé Epernay, Champagne France
Monday, August 24th, 2009
Founded in 1843 in by Edmond Besserat, Besserat Champagne was served at the best restaurants in France. Edmond’s sons Victor and Edmond joined the family business shortly thereafter. In 1927, Edmond’s grandson Edmond (really) married Yvonne de Meric de Bellefon, the daughter of another great Champagne family, and the house of Besserat de Bellefon was born. In 1930, the owner of a famous Paris restaurant challenged Victor to create a Champagne with “a light sparkle, fine froth, great finesse, and specially made to drink through a meal . . . “
The answer to this was Cuvée des Moines, named for the monks that had had such an important part in the early days of 
Champagne. In order to achieve a finer mousse, a lower dosage (the sugar added to start the second fermentation that produces the bubbles) was added. The final pressure is about one atmosphere lower than the standard 6.5, making the mousse seem much more delicate, and bubbles much more lazy. In order to make the wine more delicate, the art of blending was employed to its utmost, and wines from older vintages were liberally blended to add character. The wine was a hit, and has become the main part of Besserat de Bellefon’s portfolio since.
The current Chef de Cave is the much lauded Vincent Mallerbe, and the Rosé consists of approximately 30% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir, and 40% Pinot Meunier. The grapes come from the following crus: Mesnil sur Oger, Chouilly, Cramant, Grauves, Fontaine-Denis, Bisseuil, Bassuet, Boursault Venteuil, Reuil, Verzenay, Cumières, Vertus, Bouzy, Les Riceys and do not undergo malolactic fermentation.
Though it makes an excellent aperitif, this is a wine that is very comfortable throughout the meal. Try it with hard cheese, veal (or chicken) in cream sauce (or butter) or fresh water fish. Drink now – 2012
2005 S.E. Chase Family Cellars Hayne Vineyard Zinfandel St. Helena, Napa Valley
Monday, August 24th, 2009
Descendants of Sarah Esther Chase have been growing grapes since the late 1800’s in the area around St. Helena, but began making wine under the SE Chase Family Cellars Label in 1998. Though they began wine growing by purchasing the Madrona Estate in the late 1800’s, and eventually building Greystone Cellars (which is now home to the Napa Valley campus of the Culinary Institute of America), the family’s vineyards were wiped out with the rest of the Napa Valley by the phylloxera epidemic of 1894.
The family only began making their own wine in 1997, and though every vintage has been a revelation, they have remained inexplicably under the radar. That will change. Thi wine is aged for 20 Months in a combination of new and used French Oak. Only 1247 cases are made.
This wine is characterized by a unique combination of big, spicy blackberry and raspberry fruit, wonderful acidity, and a pleasantly firm tannin all rounded out by a pleasant, but not overwhelming hint of oak. Try it with duck, salmon or pork loin, and don’t be afraid of a little sweet or spicy in the dish, the wine can stand it. Drink now – 2015.
2007 Clos Saint Jean Blanc Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Côtes du Rhône, France
Monday, August 24th, 2009
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc is a rarity in and of itself. Less than 10% of the total production of Chateauneuf is white, and less than one third of that is good. You see, white wine making in warm climates is rarely a success using old-fashioned winemaking techniques, and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, like much of the rest of the Southern Rhône, is one of the last strongholds of the traditionalist winemakers France. Because of this, and because only a select few people get to try them, the good white wines from the area don’t often get the respect that they deserve. This is one of the good ones.
Though the winery has been passed through the family (originally the Tacussel Family, now the Maurel Family) since the turn of the last century, along with the 41 ha of the best vineyard in Châteaneuf-du-Pape, all located on the venerable plateau of La Crau, it is only in the last few years that Clos Saint Jean has raised itself into the top ranks of producers. It started with a family 
tragedy: in the winter of 2001, Guy Maurel passed away, and left the vineyard to his two young sons. They didn’t feel that they were ready to take over, and hired Philippe Cambie, a skilled oenologist, famous for work in Châteauneuf and throughout the Rhône at producers such as Les Clos du Caillou and Domaine des Escaravailles. Together they decided to sell off all of the grapes that were severly damanged in the deluge of 2002, and make no wine. They followed up with some of the best wines from the region in 2003, and haven’t missed since.
Nearly 10% of all Châteauneuf-du-Pape is white, but only 2.5% of Clos St. Jean’s 41 ha are planted to white varieties. The result is that only about hundred cases of this wine are produced. The wine is a blend of equal parts Grenache Blanc, Clairette, and Roussanne, and sees some ageing in new French oak.
Full of waxy citrus and stone fruit character, and beautiful minerality this is a white that deserves to be served cool rather than cold (think 55 to 60 degrees F instead of 40) and ought to be decanted before drinking. Try it with cooked shellfish, cream sauces, mushrooms, and anything that has earthy or salty flavors. Drink now – 2011, or 2017 – 2030 (these wines always shut down and taste dead for about five years beginning 3 or so years after they are released, but then come back as something altogether different and more profound).
2007 Domaine Alary La Font d’Estevanas, Côtes du Rhône-Villages Cairanne, France
Monday, August 24th, 2009
The Alary family has been growing grapes and making wine in the village of Cairanne for eleven generations, or since the late 1600’s. But it is with the latest generation, led by Denis Alary, that the wines have begun to show their full potential. The majority of the family’s holdings lie on the best parcel of the Côtes du Rhône-Village of Cairanne’s land, called la Font d’Estevanas.
Though this is considered to be their 2nd best Cuvée, behind the very old vine Grenache cuvée called Jean de Verde, it is always the one that I find the most intriguing, probably because of the predominance of Syrah in the cuvée. The wine consists of about 60% Syrah, 
planted over forty years ago with cuttings taken from Hermitage, the remainder of the grapes are Grenache and Counoise, some of which are from vines that are over 100 years old. While the Syrah definitely marks the wine, this is unmistakably a wine from the Southern Rhône, and I would even go so far as to say that it is unmistakably a Cairanne.
Though it is always a favorite wine of mine, the vintage plays a giant role in this being part of The Next Big Thing selection. 2007 was a nearly perfect vintage, and the best in a string of excellent vintages beginning in 1998 (excluding 2002). A moist spring, followed by a very dry growing season (one of the lowest rainfalls on record for the period from June to September) 
accompanied by moderate temperatures (for the Southern Rhône at least) averaging just over 80° F and positive influence of the Mistral allowed for a long hang time, and grapes that retained a greater than average acidity. The resulting wines are deeply flavored, but feel light on their feet, with ample acid and silky tannins to support the dense fruit and alcohol. The acid also lets the minerality of these wines show through very clearly. Conditions like this favor wines with high portions of Syrah, such as this one.
Full of smoky blackberry and raspberry fruit, black and white pepper, and stony minerality, and following up with a devastatingly long finish, to say this wine complex barely begins to do it justice. Try it with grilled pork, anything with wild mushrooms (Cepes in particular) or with semi-hard cheeses. Drink now – 2020, with best results from 2012 onwards.
2005 Haciendo Monasterio Crianza Ribera del Duero, Spain
Monday, August 24th, 2009
Although I find the inconsistency in Ribera del Duero wines to be a great source of frustration, the best are a revelation. Wines that carry an immense load of deep flavors, minerality and tannins effortlessly by virtue of acidity and, well, I can’t think of any other name for it besides classiness. Here is a wine that embodies the best of characters that Ribera has to offer, but hasn’t really been discovered yet.
Even before tasting this wine, one gets a hint that it is great because of the winemaker, Peter Sisseck: the Dane who famously makes some of the greatest wines in all of Spain at his own Ribera del Duero estate Dominio de Pingus. In this case, he has been hired by Carlos del Rio, of the del Rio y Gonzalez-Gordon family who own Gonzalez Byass (Tio Pepe Sherries being their most famous product). The Haciendo Monasterio vineyards cover about 70 ha of a 113 ha estate that lies between equidistant from Pesquera de Duero and Valbeuna de Duero, the two of the best villages of the Ribera del Duero. The Haciendo Monasterio estate was originally planted in the late 19th century, and now consists of densely planted Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) with small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and Merlot.
Handled carefully, in the manner of the best wines from around the world, from harvest to vinification, the grapes undergo a relatively long 2 to 3 week maceration, pressed to French oak Barriques (40-50% new) for malolactic fermentation and ageing. Unusually for this type of wine, they are racked frequently (every three months) to assist with clarity, and, no doubt to help soften the sometimes impressive tannins of Tinto Fino. The wine is bottled after 12 to 18 months in wood, and aged a further year before release.
Deep red fruit and irony mineral flavors dominate this densly structured, impressive wine. Try it with grilled rack of lamb, ribeye, or strong blue cheese. If you drink this wine anytime in the next ten years, make sure to decant it for aeration. Best from 2012 – 2025 (though it sure tastes good now).
