This month we have a delighful quaffing bubbly from Italy, some very serious Champagne, and a Cava (yes, a Cava!) that has serious class. Lot’s of good stuff to drink here.
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Champagne and Sparkling Wine Society - Aug '09
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All of the wines from the August ‘09 edition of The Champagne and Sparkling Wine Society
The Champagne and Sparkling Wine Society – August 2009
Sunday, August 30th, 20092006 Gramona Grand Cuvée Cava, Penedès, Spain
Monday, August 24th, 2009
I am not a Cava fan in general. In fact, it’s the one sparkling wine I won’t order by the glass as a rule. And based on the average Cava, I don’t think that I am being overly snobby. It’s not that Cava is bad, in fact it’s almost never bad . . . just completely boring. There are a couple of exceptions, but nothing that has ever gotten me excited. Two weeks ago, during an intensive Spanish Wine Class put on by the Spanish Government, my opinion was changed forever. I tasted a number of delightful Cava’s, but was totally enchanted by Bodega Gramona’s selections.
Gramona was founded as Celler Bastlle in 1881, the same year that Pablo Picasso was born. Since then, Gramona has been owned by five generations of the Family. (In 1913, Bartomeu Gramona Pursell married Pillar Batlle Duran, the heir to Celler Batlle, and the firm became known as Gramona). But despite their long history, the Gramona family is committed to using the best of modern technology and know-how alongside the traditions, and commitment to quality that has been passed down through the generations. The results are some of the most exciting sparkling wines I have tasted in a long time.
The family grows classic Cava varieties (Xarel-Lo, Macabeo, Parellada) International varieties (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir) as well as a few others that they are experimenting with at their estate vineyards of La Plana, Mas Escorpí, El Serralat and La Sarona in Penedès, Gran Cuvée is made from equal parts Xarel-Lo, Macabeo and Chardonnay. It is aged 24 months on the lees, giving it a full fifteen months more than the minimum required by law for Cava, and a resulting more complex flavor.
This is a light, elegant, aperitif sparkler, but has enough oomph and complexity to go well with fish and shellfish, and even chicken. Also, try it with asparagus or artichokes. Drink now – 2012
2007 Alfonso Boeri Ribota Moscato d’Asti, Piedmont, Italy
Monday, August 24th, 2009
The winery’s press material says this of the wine’s name: “In our local dialect “Ribota” means to be together with friends, eating, drinking, having fun in enjoyable company. For us, this word expresses the spirit of our Moscato.” It’s the perfect description of this wine, I could almost stop here and that would be enough. But there’s so much more to tell.
Moscato d’Asti is a DOCG encompassing not only the province of Asti, but also the province of Cuneo, which stretches to the edge of the Barolo vineyards. The wines are sweet, but not overly so, and have a maximum pressure of 1.7 atmosphers (as opposed to 6.5 for Champagne) giving them a soft effervescence rather than a powerful bead like Champagne. They are made exclusively from Moscato Bianco, which is identical to the aristocratic Muscat Blanc à Petite Grains of France. These wines are also surprisingly low in alcohol, coming in at about 5.5% abv. Moscato D’Asti is a superior appellation to Asti DOCG (formerly Asti Spumante) which is made from less ripe grapes, has higher alcohol and often has much more sugar (not all natural) and is fully sparkling, like Champagne.
Establish in 1890 by Alfonso Boeri, the current winemakers are his great grandsons Georgio and Roberto Boeri. They plan on passing the responsibilities to their children, Giulia, Renata and Perpaolo when they are ready. Though they produce a range of Classic Piemontese wines, the estate is especially known for Barbera and Moscato d’Asti, both of which much sought after in Italy.
1000 cases of Ribota are made each year, and as it continues to wine award after award in Europe, only a few make it to the United States. The wine has a gentle bead, and a delicate sweetness that perfectly accompany the explosive aromas and flavors of stone fruit, pears, fresh herbs, honey and flowers. This is THE wine to try with fresh fruit desserts, but is also an excellent aperitif, that will go with anything salty, and lots that is sweet (think salumi, prosciutto, figs, melons, peaches, cheese). Drink now – 2010.
NV Besserat de Bellefon Cuvée des Moines Rosé Epernay, Champagne France
Monday, August 24th, 2009
Founded in 1843 in by Edmond Besserat, Besserat Champagne was served at the best restaurants in France. Edmond’s sons Victor and Edmond joined the family business shortly thereafter. In 1927, Edmond’s grandson Edmond (really) married Yvonne de Meric de Bellefon, the daughter of another great Champagne family, and the house of Besserat de Bellefon was born. In 1930, the owner of a famous Paris restaurant challenged Victor to create a Champagne with “a light sparkle, fine froth, great finesse, and specially made to drink through a meal . . . “
The answer to this was Cuvée des Moines, named for the monks that had had such an important part in the early days of 
Champagne. In order to achieve a finer mousse, a lower dosage (the sugar added to start the second fermentation that produces the bubbles) was added. The final pressure is about one atmosphere lower than the standard 6.5, making the mousse seem much more delicate, and bubbles much more lazy. In order to make the wine more delicate, the art of blending was employed to its utmost, and wines from older vintages were liberally blended to add character. The wine was a hit, and has become the main part of Besserat de Bellefon’s portfolio since.
The current Chef de Cave is the much lauded Vincent Mallerbe, and the Rosé consists of approximately 30% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir, and 40% Pinot Meunier. The grapes come from the following crus: Mesnil sur Oger, Chouilly, Cramant, Grauves, Fontaine-Denis, Bisseuil, Bassuet, Boursault Venteuil, Reuil, Verzenay, Cumières, Vertus, Bouzy, Les Riceys and do not undergo malolactic fermentation.
Though it makes an excellent aperitif, this is a wine that is very comfortable throughout the meal. Try it with hard cheese, veal (or chicken) in cream sauce (or butter) or fresh water fish. Drink now – 2012
