Off the Beaten Path All Red - Aug '09

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All of the wines shipped in the August ‘09 edition of Extraordinary Wines from Off the Beaten Path All Red.

 

Extraordinary Wines from Off the Beaten Path – August 2009

Tuesday, August 25th, 2009

August 2009 Extraordinary Wines from Off the Beaten Path

Another great month! This time, we journey to Spain, Portugal, Austria, and Germany for the red and white crowd, and to Spain, Portugal, Austria, South Africa, Argentina and France for the all red crowd. We see the last of the summery wines, and the beginning of wines that deserve to be drunk in the fall.

One note on the website: I seem to have exceeded the capacity of my databases, and it is acting a little funny. Therefore it is imperative that you follow the link in this email to access your notes. I hope to have the situation under control in the next few days, but until then, you can find all of the wines in the club under the following links:

For Extraordinary Wines from Off the Beaten Path, click here

For Extraordinary Wines from Off the Beaten Path All Red, click here

As always, drink your selections in good health.

Until next month,

Jake

2005 Benegas Don Tiburcio Maipú, Mendoza, Argentina

Tuesday, August 25th, 2009

Don Tiburcio

This is a great story, so I am going to quote the winery website and tell it from the beginning:

“Tiburcio Benegas, together with Silvestre Ochagavía (Chile) and Agoston Harszthy (California), are considered the first three pioneers in the wine industry in America. Convinced that it was imperative to achieve excellence in their products, Benegas brought the first French grapevines ever introduced in Argentina, along with the most advanced technology available at the time”
The Benegas family has a long a tradition in the wine history. In 1883, Tiburcio Benegas bought a vineyard called “El Trapiche”, located in Godoy Cruz, Mendoza, formerly the department of San Vicente (the Patron Saint of vineyards). It was on this land that Tiburcio built the Trapiche winery, which eventually would attain international fame and prestige.

“In 1886, there were only 6.653 hectares of vineyards in Mendoza. Tiburcio Benegas, the Governor of the Province at the time, was also a pioneer in viticulture and viniculture. In order to promote this activity, he obtained a loan of 5.000.000 “pesos oro” from Europe, with which he founded the Bank of Mendoza, and set to the construction of dams and rubblework ditches in the Mendoza River to increase the vineyard plantations.”

“Tiburcio Benegas, an example of hard work and optimism, managed to become the owner of the largest vineyard of the province, in the department of Godoy Cruz. His fellow countrymen, the people of Mendoza, took pride in his property, “El Trapiche”, and it soon became a place of interest to those visiting the Province and the vineyards”. Tiburcio was the founder of the wine industry in Mendoza. He promoted the first irrigation system in the province, he crossed the Andes on a mule and then traveled by ship to Bordeaux to increase the scope of Argentine winery, by introducing fine varieties such as Cabernet, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Out of the experience gained on each of his trips to France, he developed oenology in Mendoza, mainly regarding the production of quality wines: he brought oenologists from Bordeaux, imported oak casks from Nancy and the most sophisticated equipment available in those days. It is not surprising, then, that “Trapiche” was acknowledged as the best Argentine wine during the first seventy years of the XXth century.

Finca Libertad (nice view!)Pedro and Alberto Benegas continued with the family enterprise, following Tiburcio´s steps. Pedro, who had studied oenology in Bordeaux, gave the rising industry a new boost at the beginning of the century. He stayed on his father´s and in Mendoza in charge of the vineyards and the winery, while Alberto, his brother, organized the administration and marketing of the wines throughout the country, from Buenos Aires. Thus, Benegas Hnos. was founded in 1908, starting a lineage that would last up to the present.

After a trip to France, Pedro Benegas came back with a more comprehensive and modern view regarding the management of vineyards and quality wine making. Until then, the Trapiche wines were made with some sophistication but fell short of the expectations aimed at by the Benegas. Pedro and Alberto decided to incorporate new brands for more demanding consumers, so they began to produce Fond de Cave, Broquel, Puente Viejo and Vezelay. Pedro Benegas incorporated the typical features of the Bordeaux wines and the blends were definitely inspired by French tradition.

Pedro Benegas died in 1943 and his nephew, Federico A. Benegas Lynch (1916-1997), who had joined the company in 1938, settled in “El Trapiche”, Mendoza, to work in the winery. At the beginning of the 70’s, the family company dissolved and the assets were sold. The Trapiche winery was demolished, and the vineyards were divided and sold. Pulenta bought the wine brands and Seagrams, the champagne brands. The only one that remained in the family was BENEGAS, owned at present by Federico J. Benegas Lynch.

Federico A. was the last winemaker of Benegas Hnos SA. With his twenty-eight years´ experience, and seeking to continue the production of fine wines in the most efficient way, entered into partnership with Camilo Gancia, to manufacture wines under the trade name “Federico Benegas”. Gancia contributed the vineyards and winery; Federico, the technical supervision. This partnership continued until the early 90’s.

Federico J. Benegas Lynch was born in the winery in 1951. He grew up by his father’s side, sampling wines and working in the vineyard. This atmosphere awakened in him a deep love for his land and its wine. He had always been close to his father and eventually, he joined the enterprise, doing what he loved most with a solid conviction. In 1997, he became a member of the Board of Directors of Peñaflor and Trapiche wineries, which were then under the control of Luis A. Pulenta and DLJ. He resigned to his position in March 2001.

It was in 1998 that Federico J. resumed his activity as winemaker when he settled on the 40 hectares of Finca Libertad, part of the old Benegas’ family property, where the vineyards are 20 to 80 years old. He started the production of quality wines, fully convinced that he would achieve the level of excellence of his ancestors. This restoration period is the landmark of the beginning of a new era in the Benegas family, who had always devoted to the art of vines from the very roots.

This wine is named in honor of the founder of the family wine history, and pretty much the initiator of the Argentine wine industry. It’s a blend of Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in oak for 18 months total, (11 months in separate lots, and 9 further months after the blend is made). A full-bodied, super-tasty Bordeaux blend, drink with Lamb, Roast Beef, or just about anything meaty and roasty, the gamier the better. Drink now – 2015

2008 Porcupine Ridge Syrah, Coastal Region, South Africa

Tuesday, August 25th, 2009

Porcupine Ridge SyrahIn 1652 Jan van Riebeeck, a Dutch surgeon, eager to find a way to relieve the symptoms of scurvy, suggested to the Dutch East India Company that the Cape Province of South Africa would be suitable for growing grapes. Nine years later the first wine was pressed from grapes grown on cuttings brought from France.

The prime grape growing areas of South Africa spread out from Cape Town, and include the Paarl (‘pearl’ in Afrikaans), which to the east encompasses Franschhoek (‘French corner’) home of the first French Huguenot settlers. Boekenhoutskloof, its homestead dating from 1784, is located in the Franschhoek Valley.

The owners of Boekenhoutskloof have revamped an ancient cellar, and have installed state-of-the-art equipment as well as a quality maturation cellar. Marc Kent is the winemaker for the Boekenhoutskloof wines as well as the range of wines called Porcupine Ridge.

There are approximately 20 hectares of vines at Boekenhoutskloof – 25% of which are planted to white varieties: Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Viognier; and 75% of which consist of reds: Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. All vineyards employ extended double perold trellises. The soil types are not homogenous, ranging from deep, rich alluvial soils along the river’s edge to iron ridge clay on hillsides with areas of decomposed granite.

The fruit is predominantly sourced in Malmesbury, with a small portion of Wellington fruit also used. Certain parcels are naturally fermented, but most are inoculated with selected Rhône strains. About a third remains unoaked, the balance is matured in old French barriques and on French oak staves.

Raspberry, mulberry, and licorice dominate the palate and nose of this medium-full bodied wine. Try it with poultry, salmon, and smoked meats. Drink now – 2013.

2005 Domaine de la Berangeraie Cuvée Maurin, Cahors, France

Tuesday, August 25th, 2009

Cuvee Maurin 05

I love Cahors!  These are powerful, rustic wines, and compared to Argentine Malbec, a very different expression of the grape.  Though they used to be called “black wines” because of the intensely dark color that own-rooted Malbec provided them, they rarely attain that level of darkness since they are mostly grafted onto other rootstocks to prevent phylloxera.  That said, the combination of fig, black plum and cassis, almost buried in a mix of earthy, herby, prickly other aromas, quickly allays any fears one might have about these being shy or delicate wines.

From Peter Weygandt (the importer of Domaine de la Berangeraie)-

In 1971 Andre Berenger came to Cahors from Provence with his wife Sylvie, who is originally from Champagne, and planted their vineyard near Grezels, on the red clay/iron stone soil known as Grezes. Their two children, Maurin and Juline not only joined them in the family business but so too have their respective spouses. Thus the three couples all work together and do everything in this twelve hectare domaine themselves – the pruning, the treatments of the vines ( all organic) and the harvesting all by hand (a disappearing practice in Cahors where harvesting is now done almost exclusively by machine).

Moreover, Juline, Maurin, and Maurin’s wife, Marlene, are all graduates of Oenology school as oneologists, diplomes . With this background, not surprisingly, their cuvees follow family names – Juline, a blend of 80% Malbec and 20% Merlot is the most elegant, with ripe fruit and soft tannins. It is aged solely in concrete (no oak) and bottled unfiltered for us. The Maurin is 100% Malbec, also concrete aged and unfiltered. In 2000 there is a new cuvee, Marlene, that is aged one-half in one year old barrique and the grapes come from one of their best parcels. These wines are proof that hand made artisnal wines of character, yet accessibility, are still being made in Cahors.

This wine typical of good Cahors, in that it sings with rustic intensity.  Firm tannins and great acidity frame the fruit and earth into manageable, if somewhat unruly package, and one really gets a sense that this wine is from somewhere!  Try it with a steak, roast duck, or an earthy dish of roasted root vegetables with plenty of herbs and fat. Now – 2015.

2006 Weingut Buchegger Blauer Zweigelt Weitgasse, Kremstal, Austria

Monday, August 24th, 2009

Buchegger LabelMy favorite Austrian red wines come from the Blauer Zweigelt grape, sometimes referred to as Zweigelt. The flavors are vibrant and fruity, and the texture is almost creamy. The resulting wines seem to be what you would get if you poured some really good Zinfandel into some really good Pinot Noir.

Weingut Buchegger has been growing grapes in Gedersdorf, near Dross, in the Kremstal since 1893. Walter Buchegger, the current winemaker and owner, was born in 1968, and runs the estate with his girlfriend Silke Mayr. Beginning in 2006, the wines were made in a newly completed winery in Dross.  To find Kremstal on a map of Austrian Wine Regions, click here.

Walter BucheggerNearly all the vineyards are still located in Gedersdorf. 11 hectares – which is about 25 acres – are planted with mainly two varieties, Gruener Veltliner and Riesling. A small portion is reserved for Chardonnay, Zweigelt and Merlot. The top sites are the vineyards named Moosburgerin, Pfarrweingarten, Tiefenthal, Gebling and Holzgasse, which combine more than 70 percent of the total acreage. Many of the vineyards were planted before the current craze for clonal selection had taken hold, and therefore have mixtures of different clones, and many obscure clones that add complexity to the final wines.

The soil in the vineyards is mainly Loess, which the vineyard team is careful not to compact, and occasionally treats with manure and compost to keep high levels of positive biological components intact. The grapes are handled gently from harvest to bottling, and the resulting wines are delicious.

This wine was fermented in tank, then aged in used French oak barriques. Rich cherry and berry fruit, and that signature creamy mouthfeel make this wine and easy pleasure, but there’s lots more there for those who want to dig deeper, lots of fun stuff. Try this with anything breaded (schnitzel comes to mind), charcuterie, mushroom dishes. Drink now – 2011

2005 Bodegas Castaño Hecula, Yecla, Murcia, Spain

Monday, August 24th, 2009

Bodegas Castaño HeculaRamon Castaño Santo began purchasing parcels of old vine Monastrell (a.k.a. Mourvedre or Estrangle Chien) in 1950, going against the popular notion that the vineyards weren’t worth owning. Bodegas Castaño now owns over 400 ha of prime vineyards, which cover ten percent of the plantings in the entire DO of Yecla. In 1980 he constructed a state of the art winery and began bottling wines from his extensive holdings: again against the grain, because everyone thought that Monastrell was so easy to sell on the bulk market that it wasn’t worth making it well, much less bottling it oneself. Now his son Daniel Castaño runs the operation, and the quality and success of the wines is Ramon’s answer to the neighbors who doubted him.

Murcia, and Yecla in particular, are the center of Monastrell production in Spain, and the wines continue to provide amazing depth and value. This wine, made from 100% Monastrell, from the 35-60 year old, unirrigated vines of the Las Greusas Vineyard that surrounds the winery, is aged half in tank to preserve the fruit, and half in French Oak barrels to Las Gruesas Vineyard and Bodegas Castañoadd complexity.

This full-bodied red has explosive aromas and flavors of blue plum, prune, and cherry, rounded out by spicy hints of oak, and a well-delineated structure. Try it grilled pork, roast lamb or blue cheese. Drink now – 2014.

2005 Quinta da Garrida, Dão, Portugal

Monday, August 24th, 2009

Quinta da GarridaThere’s more to Portuguese wine than just Oporto, and though it’s been true for centuries (since long before the invention of modern Port in the 18th century, it’s been hard to get excited about the wines . . . until recently. Portuguese wine has traditionally been grown in people’s back yards, often in quantities of a single row of grapes, or just a few vines. The result of this has always been that wineries had little control over their grapes because of the hundreds of people growing them. Over the last twenty years that has begun to change, as larger concerns have begun purchasing vineyards, and planting new grape sources. No one has ever doubted the potential for great wines from Portugual, it’s just taken a while to get there.

Quinta da GarridaCaves Aliança is one of these larger concerns, and has had giant success in many regions across the country by planting large vineyards and placing modern winemaking facilities nearby, so as to have complete control over their grape sources. Quinta da Garrida is their property in Portugal’s Dão region. They own about 112 ha of land, of which 80 are planted to indigenous red and white grape varieties, the rest are left fallow. The wines from Quinta da Garrida are made by Francisco Atunes, the famous Portugese head winemaker for Caves Aliança, with the help of Pascal Chatonnet, the famous Bordeaux Enologist.

The grapes in Quinta da Garrida are Jaen, Tinta Roriz (a.k.a. Tempranillo) and Touriga Nacional. The wine spends twelve months in a combination of 80% French and 20% American barriques. The result is a robust, slightly rustic wine, with intense red fruit, fresh herb, smoke and spice flavors. In the Dão, they drink it with sausage, lamb, cured hams and hard cheese. Doesn’t sound bad to me at all. Drink now – 2013.

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