Off the Beaten Path - Aug '09

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All of the wines shipped with the August ‘09 edition of Extraordinary Wines from Off the Beaten Path

 

Extraordinary Wines from Off the Beaten Path – August 2009

Tuesday, August 25th, 2009

August 2009 Extraordinary Wines from Off the Beaten Path

Another great month! This time, we journey to Spain, Portugal, Austria, and Germany for the red and white crowd, and to Spain, Portugal, Austria, South Africa, Argentina and France for the all red crowd. We see the last of the summery wines, and the beginning of wines that deserve to be drunk in the fall.

One note on the website: I seem to have exceeded the capacity of my databases, and it is acting a little funny. Therefore it is imperative that you follow the link in this email to access your notes. I hope to have the situation under control in the next few days, but until then, you can find all of the wines in the club under the following links:

For Extraordinary Wines from Off the Beaten Path, click here

For Extraordinary Wines from Off the Beaten Path All Red, click here

As always, drink your selections in good health.

Until next month,

Jake

2008 Manfred Tement Temento, Steiermark, Austria

Tuesday, August 25th, 2009

TementoSteiermark (or Styria) in Austria, is a wine region that doesn’t get much play outside of Austria, but it should. It sits on the Slovenian border, with roughly the same latitude as Burgundy, has similarly chalky soils to Sancerre, and is the Austrian home of Sauvignon Blanc. The other grape that performs exceptionally well here is the misnamed Welschriesling, which isn’t Riesling at all, but a grape native to Slovenia, Hungary and Austria that produces a rich, nutty wine with just enough acidity. Sauvignon Blanc is breathtakingly steely here, so the Welschriesling plays a useful role in softening up a bit, and adding some contrast to the cirtussy/minerally Sauvignon Blanc character with its nutty, peachy, baked fruit character.

View from the Winery

Manfred Tement is considered, in Austria, to be the best grower in Steiermark. His vineyards sit along the Slovenian Border, and some are actually just over the border, in the foothills of the Julian Alps. Very much a family business, Manfred and his wife Heidi, Grandmother Edina and children Stephan and Armin all take part in the grape growing and winemaking. But this is one of those wines for which I hesitate to give you more information, because all you need to know is in the bottle.View from the vineyard

About 60% Welschriesling, 30% Sauvignon Blanc, and 10% native Austrian varieties, such as Gelber Muskateller and Roter-Gewurztraminer, this wine is the perfect mix of crisp acidity and bright fruit, with rich, almost honeyed flavors. It’s a joy to drink, a goes with nearly any food. My favorite combos are halibut, or other substantial fish, simply prepared, just about any cheese (except blue), anything with leeks and cream (really, try this). Drink now – 2012

2007 Rudolf Müller Shine Riesling, Pfalz, Germany

Tuesday, August 25th, 2009

Shine LabelFounded in 1919, Rudolf Müller was originally one of the most respected negociant wine firms in the Mosel Valley. Recently, the firm has expanded its reach with long term acreage contracts throughout Germany, and continues to make incredibly good Riesling that is a great value.

Pfalz VineyardShine refers to Germany’s northern latitude, and the fact that grapes wouldn’t ripen without the reflected sunshine from the river itself (this is why hillsides along river banks are so valued in Germany).

And while there is definitely tradition behind this group, they maintain quality by using the latest technology in each of their state of the art wineries that purposely close to the source of the grapes. One example is that the wines never see the inside of oak barrels (in Germany, many traditional firms employ very old (neutral), very large oak barrels for fermenting and ageing their wines, but Rudolf Muller uses only glycol-jacketed stainless steel tanks that are temperature controlled via computer to ensure that the wines are as clean and fruity as possible, and that they have control over all parts of the winemaking process.

This wine, made from 100% Riesling from an assortment of vineyards in the Pfalz, jumps out of the glass with aromas of stone fruit, pears, apples and limes, and though it has not insubstantial sugar, it has great acidity to back it up. If you’re wondering what to drink it with, get some Chinese, Thai or Indonesian takeout, and all will be clear (thought it’s also a great front porch wine). Drink now – 2010.

NV Broadbent Vinho Verde, Minho, Portugal

Monday, August 24th, 2009

Broadbent LabelVinho Verde is a classic wine of Northern Portugal. The name refers to the unripe grapes from which it is made (Verde = Green). While both red and white Vinho Verde are made, the red is a seriously acquired taste, while the white is the one that most of us not accustomed to consuming the wines will love. Characteristics of Vinho Verde are: low alcohol, serious spritz, and a pleasant, herbal, tree and stone fruit flavor and aroma. Vinho Verde is usually non vintage, and meant to be consumed within a year of production.

The classic grapes for Vinho Verde are Loureiro for aroma, Trajadura for body, and Padernã (also called Arinto) for acidity. Many of the fancier Vinho Verde are made from Alvarinho (Albariño in Spain), but these are for export, and designed to compete with Rias Baixas from Spain which is just over the border to the north. The region is cool and moist, with a Maritime climate influenced mainly by the Atlantic Ocean. As a result of this, and to better utilize the land by planting other crops underneath, the vines here are planted on pergolas made of Granite and wires, or even trained to tree trunks with other crops planted underneath.

Latada Vine Training in Minho, PortugalBroadbent Selections is a project of Bartholomew Broadbent, who headed up the US importer for the Symington Family’s brands Port and Madeira Brands (Fonseca, Warres, Taylor-Fladgate etc). Bartholomew is also the son of Michael Broadbent, the famous Master of Wine who headed the Christie’s wine auction department from 1966 onwards. In Bartholomew went out on his own, and founded Broadbent Selections, with the aim of producing his own port, and importing Ferreira Port. The company has expanded, and they now focus on family owned wineries, and their own labeled products.

Spritzy and crisp, Vinho Verde is the ultimate in refreshment, and pretty hard to stop drinking. Try it with olives, fish fritters, or anything deep fried. Drink NOWWW!!!

2006 Weingut Buchegger Blauer Zweigelt Weitgasse, Kremstal, Austria

Monday, August 24th, 2009

Buchegger LabelMy favorite Austrian red wines come from the Blauer Zweigelt grape, sometimes referred to as Zweigelt. The flavors are vibrant and fruity, and the texture is almost creamy. The resulting wines seem to be what you would get if you poured some really good Zinfandel into some really good Pinot Noir.

Weingut Buchegger has been growing grapes in Gedersdorf, near Dross, in the Kremstal since 1893. Walter Buchegger, the current winemaker and owner, was born in 1968, and runs the estate with his girlfriend Silke Mayr. Beginning in 2006, the wines were made in a newly completed winery in Dross.  To find Kremstal on a map of Austrian Wine Regions, click here.

Walter BucheggerNearly all the vineyards are still located in Gedersdorf. 11 hectares – which is about 25 acres – are planted with mainly two varieties, Gruener Veltliner and Riesling. A small portion is reserved for Chardonnay, Zweigelt and Merlot. The top sites are the vineyards named Moosburgerin, Pfarrweingarten, Tiefenthal, Gebling and Holzgasse, which combine more than 70 percent of the total acreage. Many of the vineyards were planted before the current craze for clonal selection had taken hold, and therefore have mixtures of different clones, and many obscure clones that add complexity to the final wines.

The soil in the vineyards is mainly Loess, which the vineyard team is careful not to compact, and occasionally treats with manure and compost to keep high levels of positive biological components intact. The grapes are handled gently from harvest to bottling, and the resulting wines are delicious.

This wine was fermented in tank, then aged in used French oak barriques. Rich cherry and berry fruit, and that signature creamy mouthfeel make this wine and easy pleasure, but there’s lots more there for those who want to dig deeper, lots of fun stuff. Try this with anything breaded (schnitzel comes to mind), charcuterie, mushroom dishes. Drink now – 2011

2005 Bodegas Castaño Hecula, Yecla, Murcia, Spain

Monday, August 24th, 2009

Bodegas Castaño HeculaRamon Castaño Santo began purchasing parcels of old vine Monastrell (a.k.a. Mourvedre or Estrangle Chien) in 1950, going against the popular notion that the vineyards weren’t worth owning. Bodegas Castaño now owns over 400 ha of prime vineyards, which cover ten percent of the plantings in the entire DO of Yecla. In 1980 he constructed a state of the art winery and began bottling wines from his extensive holdings: again against the grain, because everyone thought that Monastrell was so easy to sell on the bulk market that it wasn’t worth making it well, much less bottling it oneself. Now his son Daniel Castaño runs the operation, and the quality and success of the wines is Ramon’s answer to the neighbors who doubted him.

Murcia, and Yecla in particular, are the center of Monastrell production in Spain, and the wines continue to provide amazing depth and value. This wine, made from 100% Monastrell, from the 35-60 year old, unirrigated vines of the Las Greusas Vineyard that surrounds the winery, is aged half in tank to preserve the fruit, and half in French Oak barrels to Las Gruesas Vineyard and Bodegas Castañoadd complexity.

This full-bodied red has explosive aromas and flavors of blue plum, prune, and cherry, rounded out by spicy hints of oak, and a well-delineated structure. Try it grilled pork, roast lamb or blue cheese. Drink now – 2014.

2005 Quinta da Garrida, Dão, Portugal

Monday, August 24th, 2009

Quinta da GarridaThere’s more to Portuguese wine than just Oporto, and though it’s been true for centuries (since long before the invention of modern Port in the 18th century, it’s been hard to get excited about the wines . . . until recently. Portuguese wine has traditionally been grown in people’s back yards, often in quantities of a single row of grapes, or just a few vines. The result of this has always been that wineries had little control over their grapes because of the hundreds of people growing them. Over the last twenty years that has begun to change, as larger concerns have begun purchasing vineyards, and planting new grape sources. No one has ever doubted the potential for great wines from Portugual, it’s just taken a while to get there.

Quinta da GarridaCaves Aliança is one of these larger concerns, and has had giant success in many regions across the country by planting large vineyards and placing modern winemaking facilities nearby, so as to have complete control over their grape sources. Quinta da Garrida is their property in Portugal’s Dão region. They own about 112 ha of land, of which 80 are planted to indigenous red and white grape varieties, the rest are left fallow. The wines from Quinta da Garrida are made by Francisco Atunes, the famous Portugese head winemaker for Caves Aliança, with the help of Pascal Chatonnet, the famous Bordeaux Enologist.

The grapes in Quinta da Garrida are Jaen, Tinta Roriz (a.k.a. Tempranillo) and Touriga Nacional. The wine spends twelve months in a combination of 80% French and 20% American barriques. The result is a robust, slightly rustic wine, with intense red fruit, fresh herb, smoke and spice flavors. In the Dão, they drink it with sausage, lamb, cured hams and hard cheese. Doesn’t sound bad to me at all. Drink now – 2013.

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