The Next Big Thing All Red - Aug '09

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All of the wines from the August ‘09 edition of The Next Big Thing All Red

 

The Next Big Thing – August 2009

Sunday, August 30th, 2009

This month for The Next Big Thing we have an exceptional wine from Spain, that is sure to be a impossible to get within the coming years, and one of my absolute favorites from France’s Rhône Valley from the exceptional 2007 vintage.  If you receive white and red wines, the white is also from the Rhône, a stunning Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc, and if you receive all reds, you have  a stunning, a elegant (yes, I said elegant) Napa Valley Zinfandel.

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2005 S.E. Chase Family Cellars Hayne Vineyard Zinfandel St. Helena, Napa Valley

Monday, August 24th, 2009

Chase Hayne LabelDescendants of Sarah Esther Chase have been growing grapes since the late 1800’s in the area around St. Helena, but began making wine under the SE Chase Family Cellars Label in 1998. Though they began wine growing by purchasing the Madrona Estate in the late 1800’s, and eventually building Greystone Cellars (which is now home to the Napa Valley campus of the Culinary Institute of America), the family’s vineyards were wiped out with the rest of the Napa Valley by the phylloxera epidemic of 1894.

Sarah Esther Chase BournIn 1903 Sarah’s daughter Maude and her husband William Alliston Hayne planted the Hayne Vineyard and continued the family’s tradition of grape growing. This wines comes from the original planting of 1903 Zinfandel, head trained, on St. George Rootstock. The gravelly soil, and slope of the vineyard, along with the exceptional age of the vines make it on of, if not the best, Zinfandel Vineyards in Napa Valley.

The family only began making their own wine in 1997, and though every vintage has been a revelation, they have remained inexplicably under the radar. That will change. Thi wine is aged for 20 Months in a combination of new and used French Oak. Only 1247 cases are made.

This wine is characterized by a unique combination of big, spicy blackberry and raspberry fruit, wonderful acidity, and a pleasantly firm tannin all rounded out by a pleasant, but not overwhelming hint of oak. Try it with duck, salmon or pork loin, and don’t be afraid of a little sweet or spicy in the dish, the wine can stand it. Drink now – 2015.

2007 Domaine Alary La Font d’Estevanas, Côtes du Rhône-Villages Cairanne, France

Monday, August 24th, 2009

La Font d'Estevenas LabelThe Alary family has been growing grapes and making wine in the village of Cairanne for eleven generations, or since the late 1600’s. But it is with the latest generation, led by Denis Alary, that the wines have begun to show their full potential. The majority of the family’s holdings lie on the best parcel of the Côtes du Rhône-Village of Cairanne’s land, called la Font d’Estevanas.

Though this is considered to be their 2nd best Cuvée, behind the very old vine Grenache cuvée called Jean de Verde, it is always the one that I find the most intriguing, probably because of the predominance of Syrah in the cuvée. The wine consists of about 60% Syrah, Old Vines at Font d'Estevanasplanted over forty years ago with cuttings taken from Hermitage, the remainder of the grapes are Grenache and Counoise, some of which are from vines that are over 100 years old. While the Syrah definitely marks the wine, this is unmistakably a wine from the Southern Rhône, and I would even go so far as to say that it is unmistakably a Cairanne.

Though it is always a favorite wine of mine, the vintage plays a giant role in this being part of The Next Big Thing selection. 2007 was a nearly perfect vintage, and the best in a string of excellent vintages beginning in 1998 (excluding 2002). A moist spring, followed by a very dry growing season (one of the lowest rainfalls on record for the period from June to September) More vines from Alaryaccompanied by moderate temperatures (for the Southern Rhône at least) averaging just over 80° F and positive influence of the Mistral allowed for a long hang time, and grapes that retained a greater than average acidity. The resulting wines are deeply flavored, but feel light on their feet, with ample acid and silky tannins to support the dense fruit and alcohol. The acid also lets the minerality of these wines show through very clearly. Conditions like this favor wines with high portions of Syrah, such as this one.

Full of smoky blackberry and raspberry fruit, black and white pepper, and stony minerality, and following up with a devastatingly long finish, to say this wine complex barely begins to do it justice. Try it with grilled pork, anything with wild mushrooms (Cepes in particular) or with semi-hard cheeses. Drink now – 2020, with best results from 2012 onwards.

2005 Haciendo Monasterio Crianza Ribera del Duero, Spain

Monday, August 24th, 2009

Haciendo Monasterio CrianzaAlthough I find the inconsistency in Ribera del Duero wines to be a great source of frustration, the best are a revelation. Wines that carry an immense load of deep flavors, minerality and tannins effortlessly by virtue of acidity and, well, I can’t think of any other name for it besides classiness. Here is a wine that embodies the best of characters that Ribera has to offer, but hasn’t really been discovered yet.

Peter SisseckEven before tasting this wine, one gets a hint that it is great because of the winemaker, Peter Sisseck: the Dane who famously makes some of the greatest wines in all of Spain at his own Ribera del Duero estate Dominio de Pingus. In this case, he has been hired by Carlos del Rio, of the del Rio y Gonzalez-Gordon family who own Gonzalez Byass (Tio Pepe Sherries being their most famous product). The Haciendo Monasterio vineyards cover about 70 ha of a 113 ha estate that lies between equidistant from Pesquera de Duero and Valbeuna de Duero, the two of the best villages of the Ribera del Duero. The Haciendo Monasterio estate was originally planted in the late 19th century, and now consists of densely planted Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) with small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and Merlot.

Handled carefully, in the manner of the best wines from around the world, from harvest to vinification, the grapes undergo a relatively long 2 to 3 week maceration, pressed to French oak Barriques (40-50% new) for malolactic fermentation and ageing. Unusually for this type of wine, they are racked frequently (every three months) to assist with clarity, and, no doubt to help soften the sometimes impressive tannins of Tinto Fino. The wine is bottled after 12 to 18 months in wood, and aged a further year before release.

Deep red fruit and irony mineral flavors dominate this densly structured, impressive wine. Try it with grilled rack of lamb, ribeye, or strong blue cheese. If you drink this wine anytime in the next ten years, make sure to decant it for aeration. Best from 2012 – 2025 (though it sure tastes good now).

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