December '09

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All Wines Shipped in the December 2009 Clubs

 

Extraordinary Wines From Off the Beaten Path, December 2009

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

Well, it’s the holidays, and this marks the 1st anniversary of The Extraordinary Wine Club.  Thank you for your patronage, and support as we have sorted through a ton of great wines, and a few hiccups in our system.  We have  a great year ahead, and I hope that you will continue to drink well, with us.

This month we have another great group of wines, chosen with winter drinking in mind.  You will visit some of the usual places, and at least one that isn’t.  Drink them with gusto, and enjoy the ride.

Extraordinary Wines From Off the Beaten Path, Click Here

Extraordinary Wines From Off the Beaten Path All Red, Click Here

2008 Cadaretta SBS Columbia Valley, Washington

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

You may not have heard of Virginie Bourgue, but if you have one taste of her wine you will fall in love.  Virginie is the winemaker for an ambitious new winery in Walla Walla called Cadaretta that released its first wines, in 2008.

Virginie grew up in Bonnieux, Provence in the South of France, and her winemaking style combines the best elements of Washington wine—intense fruit and concentration of flavor—with a sense of restraint that is more typical of wines from France.   Virginie credits a combination of her family’s agricultural roots, her mother’s restaurant and her own degree in science for her decision to pursue winemaking.  She says that “studying winemaking allowed me to use my scientific backround, and my palate.  To combine knowledge [of science and agriculture] with the unexplainable: flavors.  Winemaking is the best way to put them both together.”

This wine is a blend of 79% Sauvignon Blanc and 21% Semillon that sees no oak.  Only 1,000 cases were produced.  Try it with quiche, golden beet salad, or macaroni and cheese.  Drink now – 2011.

2008 St. Urbans-Hof Urban Riesling Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

Although vineyards had belonged to the Weis family for centuries, Nicolaus Weis (vintage 1905, Nik Weis’ grandfather) founded the winery in 1947. In the early years he built cellars and winery buildings on a hill on Leiwen’s periphery. He named his estate for the patron saint of German winemakers, St. Urban, and ‘hof’ (the German word for ‘estate’), St. Urban’s Estate.

In the 1960s his son, Hermann, assumed management of all operations. During Hermann’s tenure the nursery expanded to become one of Germany’s largest. He established himself as a world-recognized vine breeder, especially noted for his work with Riesling. At the beginning of the 1970s he pioneered the use of this noble variety in Canada greatly contributing to the introduction of vitis vinifera into this country still new to quality winemaking. He planted the first large parcel of Riesling vines in the Niagara Peninsula under the title of St. Urban Vineyard, later to become Vineland Estates Winery.

Hermann was always interested in, and so kept his canny eye cocked towards, purchasing top Mosel vineyards. In 1989 he purchased some of the Mosel and Saar’s top sites in the high-level villages of Piesport, Ockfen, and Wiltingen.

Together with his wife Ida, a daughter of the Saar, he extended his vineyard area to the relatively expansive 33 hectares (approx. 82 acres).

In 1997, their son, Nik(olaus) joined the winery. Father and son together restructured the vineyard holdings by selling off those of lesser quality and acquiring further parcels of greater quality. 2004 heralded another expansion for the Weis family with Nik’s marriage to Daniela who added to the family’s holdings with her’s of the Mehringer Blattenberg. Nik and Daniela’s family today includes their small children Nic(olaus) and Clara.

A blend of estate vineyards, the Urban is Nik’s light and friendly wine, and as such, it makes really good drinking right now, as you are reading this note, before you’ve even put away the rest of the wines.  fruity, crisp, and moderately sweet the only work you need to do for this wine is to pour it into another vessel (a decanter or water pitcher) to give it some air before you drink it.  Try it with crab, sablefish, and Chinese food with a little spice.  Drink now – 2011.

2008 Hermanos del Villar Ipsum Rueda, Spain

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

The Villar Brothers founded Bodegas Hermanos Villar in 1995, owning 247 Acres of vineyards in the town of Rueda. The widely planted grape varieties are: white – Verdejo, Sauvignon Blanc, Viura and red –Tempranillo.

The vineyards are located southwest of Ribera del Duero, in the town of Rueda at altitude of 2,359 feet.  cold nights and hot days and low to moderate rainfall gives grapes a long growing season to ripen resulting in wines with more complexity and greater aromatic intensity. The cool nights help in retaining the acidity of the grapes, resulting in wines that are fresh and crisp.

The unique soil profile makes wines from these vineyards distinct from other vineyards in the region. Deep, with a thick surface of gravel and sand topsoil providing good water drainage and a dry-healthy environment for ripening grapes. The subsoil is composed of active limestone and water retaining clay, conserving moisture during the dry, active growing season of the vines. Soil poor in organic matter gives lower yields, increasing intensity of flavors.

This wine is made from 60% Verdejo and 40% Viura grapes.  The flavors are vibrant and crisp, ecompassing tropical fruits, grapefruit, jalepeno peppers and a host of other lively aromas and flavors.  The palate is more restrained than the nose, but only a little bit.  Try this with goat cheese, shrimp or scallops, and all manner of rice dishes.  Drink now – 2010

2005 Bodegas Mattaredonda Juan Rojo Toro, Spain

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

Alfonzo Sanz Rojo owns 62 acres ungrafted Tempranillo vines ranging in age from 70 to 140 years old.  The vineyards are located in the town of el Pego, with 2,480 ft altitude, and a slightly warmer microclimate than the rest of the Toro DO.  Grapes grown here usually ripen earlier, avoiding late September rains.  The soils are sandy and gravelly, allowing the vines to remain phylloxera-free.

In 2000, Alfonzo decided that it was time to start a winery.  The results have been spectacular.   Tempranillo from Toro generally shows darker color, and richer, rounder flavors than that of nearby Ribera del Duero.  This is doubly so for these old vines around the town of el Pego.  Yet despite this tendency for easy drinking wines, the wines from Mattaredonda are imbued with minerality, structure and spirit, probably because of the old vines and the altitude.

Juan Rojo comes from 80 year old Tempranillo vines grown on the estate vineyard in the town of El Pego, at an elevation of 2480 feet above sea level.  The wine spends eight months in a mixture of French and American oak barrels.  Try it with leg of lamb, blue cheese, pork belly.  Drink now – 2018.

2007 Finca la Linda Malbec, Lujan de Cujo, Mendoza, Argentina

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

Bodegas Luigi Bosca is owned by the Arizu family, who emigrated to the Argentinian region of Lujan de Cujo in the 1880’s.  They began planting vines, and quickly established themselves as a serious force in the local winemaking scene.

As long time landowners, and early winemakers in the European tradition, they have been part of many firsts, including the first people to have mechanized farm machinery in Mendoza. But most importantly, they were crucial in forming the Lujan de Cuyo DOC, the first Denominacion de Origen outside of Europe.

The vineyards for Finca la Linda have been in the Arizu family since 1905, and lay 15 miles southwest of Mendoza, in the village of Lujan de Cuyo, on the Eastern Slope of a mountain range at an altitude of 960 meters.

The wine is aged in 2 year old barrels for 3-4 months, then bottled.  Falling firmly on the softer side of Malbec, this is a wine for nearly every hearty food.  Try it with a steak, or lamb, or with a well-salted roast chicken.  Drink now – 2012.

2005 Falset Marça Falset, Montsant, Spain

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

Falset Marçà was founded in 1913 by a group of vineyard owners that decided to grouped themselves in order to have access to larger number of quality vineyards, resulting in meaningful productionquality wines. Today Falset Marçà owns 581 acres (235 Ha) of vineyards.

Located in the north east of Spain in the high mountains of Taragona next to the Priorat Region. The vineyards are at 1,240 ft altitude surrounding the small town of Falset, which has a
population of 184 people.  Montsant means “Holy Mountain” in Spanish, and has long been home to numerous religious shrines: the monks who came to worship brought viticulture with them in the middle ages, and Montsant has remained a source of precious old vines ever since.

Slate stone, Granite, sand, limestone and clay are equally distributed throughout the surface and subsoil of these vineyards. This soil profile is low in organic material, well drained, deep and warm. All these different qualities result in lower yields that maximize fruit concentration, easy-to-achieve ripeness, and long root systems that reach moisture for good water-nourishment.

This wine is made from 50% Garnacha, 30% Cariñena, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon.  The wine sees no oak, but is instead aged in stainless steel, then in the bottle to retain freshness.  try it with corned beef, ham, sweet potatoes.  Drink now – 2013

2004 Poggio Bertaio Stucchio, Umbria, Italy

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

The estate’s vineyard Poggio Bertaio was born in 1972 when Fabio, father of the current owners, moved from Castelli Romani to Castiglione del Lago and bought the first part of the soils.  Here he planted some hectars of vineyards, in order to keep his passion for wine alive.

The two sons grew up and while Ugo dedicated himself to the management of the family’s winery, Fabrizio undertook the career of oenologist and cooperated with important estates.

The increasing of his success encouraged Fabrizio to take a stab at his own vineyard in order to test different methods and check some ideas with the aim of achieving the “ideal wine”. His work was driven by his previous experience.

At last, with the vintage 1998 the new cellar was ready and from the winemaking of the grapes of the old vineyards the brothers decided to to make the first bottles of “Cimbolo”.

The estate’s vineyard is located in Castiglione del Lago, close to Perugia, at an elevation of 304m (997 ft). It consists of 40 hectars of soil, 20 of which cultivated with grapevine. The vineyards are on the south and the breeding is a cordon spur which has 1600 blocks per hectare in 1972 and 5000 blocks in the new vineyard planted between 1998 and 2004. The grapes yield is 500 kilos per hectare.  It is a carbonate-array soil.

This wine, called Stucchio, which means field maple in the local dialect because this is where the vines first clung to, is made from 100% Sangiovese, and aged for 12 months in 4 to 5 year old oak, then for additional time in the bottle.  Try it with Bolognese pasta, pizza, lentil soup.  Drink now – 2010.

2006 Yalumba Shiraz-Viognier, Barossa, Australia

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

Yalumba was founded in 1849 by Samuel Smith, British migrant and English brewer, who had brought his family to Angaston seeking a new life. After purchasing a 30-acre parcel of land just beyond the southern-eastern boundary of Angaston, Smith and his son began planting the first vines by moonlight. Samuel named his patch “Yalumba” – aboriginal for “all the land around”.

Five generations and 160 years later Yalumba, Australia’s oldest family owned winery, has grown in size and stature, embodying all that has made the Australian wine success story the envy of winemakers the world over.

This wine is made from Shiraz from 25-30 year old vines.  Some of which is co-fermented with Viognier to help fix the color and intensify the aromatics.  The wine is medium-full bodied, with intensely fruity aromas and flavors, and hints of cedar and spice from the moderate oak treatment.  Try this with pork chops, sweet potatoes, or barbecue ribs.   Drink now – 2011.

Domaine de Couron Côtes du Rhône-Village, France

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

The Village of St. Marcel d’Ardèche, home to Domaine de Couron, lies along the boundary at which Provence is said to begin.  35 miles northwest of Avignon, lying on the limestone plateau that seperates the northern Rhône from the southern Rhône, at St. Marcel the climate changes from continental to Mediterannean, the skies turn blue, and the light becomes limpid.  Olive trees begin to dot the landscape, and the grapes switch from the near monoculture of Syrah in the North, to the patchwork of varieties that makes the southern Rhône valley such an exciting wine region.

St. Marcel in general, and Domaine de Couron in particular, have been planted to grape vines since Roman times.  The vineyards of the domaine were owned by the family of a Roman soldier until the dissolution of the Roman Empire in the area (around 476 AD) after which they passed to the church, and were given as tribute to soldiers returning to the crusades.  Since then the vineyards have passed through many hands.  The Domaine is currently owned by Jean-Luc and Marie-Lise Dorthe.

This wine, from the exceptional, and soon to be legendary 2007 vintage, consists of Grenache, Mourvedre, and Syrah in nearly equal proportions.  It is a great example of its kind, full of spice and black fruit, and dried herbs: full-bodied, but not heavy.  Try it with fish of all sorts, ham, or goose with kumquat stuffing.  Drink now – 2012.

The Champagne and Sparkling Wine Society – December 2009

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

This month we travel to Italy, Australia and, of course, Champagne in our never-ending quest to drink all of the great sparkling  wine in the world.  Prost!

for information on the wines, click here

NV Fantinel Brut Rosé Venezia Giulia IGT, Friuli, Italy

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

Fantinel was founded in 1969 by well known and admired hotelier and restaurateur Mario Fantinel, who was driven to produce wines that would defy the expectations of his tasteful clientele. In 1973 Mario’s sons acquired some of the finest vineyards in Collio, Grave, and Colli Orientali as well as opening a wine bar in San Daniele del Friuli. At the turn of the millennium, the third generation of the family – Lara, Manuela, Stefano, Marco, Marielena, and Paolo – embarked on further expansion, and today a wide array of Fantinel products are enjoyed around the world. Following his 2007 appointment as the Ambassador for the inter-governmental agency aimed at aiding developing countries, Marco Fantinel embraced the campaign for Algae Spirulina that can help in the battle against world malnutrition

Some sparkling wines are just meant to be delicious and fun, no contemplation required.  This wine, made from 87% Pinot Nero and 13% Chardonnay is an excellent example.  Drink it cold, drink it with anything, drink more.  Drink it NOW.

NV Janz Brut Rosé Tasmania, Australia

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

In the northeast corner of Australia’s southern island state is a wine region so perfect for creating sparkling wine that it has captured the interest of world-renowned Champagne houses such as Louis Roederer of Reims, France, who believed that the climate of the area was ideal for the production of finely structured méthode champenoise and helped establish the vineyard that would become Jansz Tasmania. The Hill Smith family shared the belief and purchased the vineyard from Pipers Brook in 1998.

With a climate very close to that of Champagne, this region is known simply as ‘Sparkling Tasmania’. The Jansz vineyards lie in the Tamar Valley at the heart of Tasmania’s Pipers River region – the very centre of ‘Sparkling Tasmania’

With a mantle of red basalt soils and a cool climate moderated by the proximity of Bass Strait, the Jansz Tasmania vineyards are ideal for allowing grapes to ripen slowly and develop the lingering acidity essential to produce a premium sparkling wine. Under the Hill Smith family guidance, Jansz Tasmania has evolved to become known as the benchmark Australian sparkling wine.

This wine, made from 60% Pinot Noir, 37% Chardonnay and 3% Pinot Meunier, sourced from select sparkling wine vineyards around the winery, is aged for 18-24 months on tirage.  The result is a beautiful bead with luscious, creamy flavors of soft red fruit and a surprisingly long, intense finish.  Try this with sashimi, Montana paddlefish caviar or a roast chicken.  Drink Now – 2012.

NV Alfred Gratien Classique Brut, Epernay, Champagne France

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

Alfred Gratien founded this estate in 1864 based on the philosophy that Champagne is not manufactured, it is created. His commitment to quality was reflected in his insistence on selecting only premium fruit, vinification exclusively in small oak casks, limited production, and consideration for the character and individuality of the vineyards. Following in his footsteps, Nicolas Jaeger, as the fourth generation, remains dedicated to his ancestor’s ideals and traditions. Under his watchful eye, only the very best cuvées of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier spend a minimum of six months in 228 liter oak casks without malolactic fermentation, followed by at least three years in the bottle before release. This special care, coming from one of the few remaining handmade champagne houses in the world, defines Alfred Gratien as truly exceptional.

This blend of 45% Chardonnay, 12% Pinot Noir and 43% Pinot Meunier spends 6 months in 228 liter casks after blending, then a full 36 months months on its lees in the bottle after the second fermentation.  The Pinot Meunier adds power to the mineral elegance of the chardonnay.

This is Champagne for steak, or yukon river salmon, or a hearty cheese course.  It’s also great on its own.  Drink now – 2018 (this is one of those non-vintage cuvees that ages wonderfully).

The Next Big Thing – December 2009

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

The Club this month is full of excitement.  A world class Oregon Pinot Noir, and a 143 year-old vine Shiraz (sort of) are just two of the treats that lie in store for you.

For The Next Big Thing, click here

For The Next Big Thing All Red, click here

2007 Abbazia di Novacella Sylvaner “Praepositus” Alto-Adige, Italy

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

Every well-rounded wine cellar must reserve a place for wines that aren’t part of the current trend, or even part of any trend at all, but are exceptional none-the-less.  It is from these wines that the trends of the future will likely arise, and if they don’t, they will provide delicious drinking when their time comes.

Paradoxically, it is often from wines made using ancient techniques and traditions that were abandoned in the technological age that capture the interest of modern drinkers and collectors alike.  Enter Abbazia di Novacella.

Abbazia di Novacella, is an abbey founded in 1142 by Augustinian Monks.  It is a working farm, and a school for boys.  They focus on the native grapes of the region, and as such, Sylvaner and Kerner, along with Veltliner, and to a lesser extent Müller-Thurgau, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Noir, Schiavia and Lagrein are their grapes.  The wines are made using many traditional techniques, included extended skin contact for the whites, and ageing in Acacia barrels.

The Sylvaner Praepositus comes from sandy clay soil at 1800-2100 feet of elevation near the Austrian Border.  The wine is fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel, but aged in 30hl Acacia Casks for five months, before resting a further 3 months in bottle.  This is unique, and delicious wine that comfortably walks the line between minerally and rich.

Try it with potato and onion tart, breaded pork cutlet, or beet salad.  Drink now – 2015.

2002 Bodegas Mattaredonda Libranza Toro, Spain

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

Alfonzo Sanz Rojo owns 62 acres ungrafted Tempranillo vines ranging in age from 70 to 140 years old.  The vineyards are located in the town of el Pego, with 2,480 ft altitude, and a slightly warmer microclimate than the rest of the Toro DO.  Grapes grown here usually ripen earlier, avoiding late September rains.  The soils are sandy and gravelly, allowing the vines to remain phylloxera-free.

In 2000, Alfonzo decided that it was time to start a winery.  The results have been spectacular.   Tempranillo from Toro generally shows darker color, and richer, rounder flavors than that of nearby Ribera del Duero.  This is doubly so for these old vines around the town of el Pego.  Yet despite this tendency for easy drinking wines, the wines from Mattaredonda are imbued with minerality, structure and spirit, probably because of the old vines and the altitude.

Libranza is a selection from a 12 acre parcel of 100 – 140 year old own-rooted vines.  The wine is aged in a combination of new and old French and American Oak for 14 months.  Try this wine with full-flavored meat dishes like spice rubbed leg of lamb, with strong blue cheese, or with roasted root vegetables like turnips, rutabaga and beets.  Drink now – 2020.

2007 Antica Terra Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

First planted in 1989, Antica Terra is a rugged 40 acre parcel in Oregon’s Eola-Amity Hills AVA.  The gently sloping vineyard consists of shallow soil underlayed by sandstone and siltstone formed by old alluvium, thus Antica Terra.

The wines from Antica Terra have always shown great promise, but been inconsistent to a frustrating degree.  In 2005, that all changed as a new group of owners took over with visions of producing world class Pinot Noir.  Upgrades to the vineyard, and a regimen of sustainable agriculture have been employed to make sure that winemaker Maggie Harrison has be the best raw materials.

The results were immediately obvious, but the 2007, from a challenging year in the Willamette Valley, has shown the team’s new metal.  This is a wine that is both deeply flavored, and extraordinarily elegant, and while it is definitely from Oregon, it has that nervosity, and character, that we love so much from Burgundy.

Try this with French onion soup, beef stew, or anything with mushrooms.  Drink now – 2018

2005 Langmeil The Orphan Block Shiraz, Barossa, Australia

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

In 1996, after a series of neglectful owners, Richard Linder, Carl Lindner and Chris Bitter purchased the languishing vineyards and winery that had been Paradale Winery, and included a small plot of Shiraz vines planted in 1843 by Christian Auricht, a settler in Barossa who had fled religious persecution in his native Silesia (central Europe).

With what are thought to be the oldest living Syrah vines in the world, the three friends renamed the winery Langmeil after the original town that encompassed the property, set out to make exceptional Shiraz.  They have succeeded in a fantastic way.

Somewhere along the way, part of Christian Auricht’s vineyard was split off under different ownership.  Upon purchasing the property, it was discovered that this block of vineyard, planted around the same time as the legendary 1943 block, was slated to be torn up to make way for condo development.  10 rows of these exceptionally old vines were rescued, and moved to a different place, and thus became the orphan block.

This wine doesn’t exactly taste like Australian Shiraz, at least not like the cheap stuff we’ve grown accustomed to in the US.  While is does show intense fruit, and more than a dollop of oak (though it was aged in seasoned American and French barrels), it has layers and waves of complex flavors that make it a wine that can be contemplated as well as enjoyed.

Try it with barbecue beef brisket, braised short ribs, or sautéed porcini mushrooms.  Drink now – 2022.

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