Off the Beaten Path - Dec 09

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Extraordinary Wines from Off the Beaten Path December 2009

 

Extraordinary Wines From Off the Beaten Path, December 2009

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

Well, it’s the holidays, and this marks the 1st anniversary of The Extraordinary Wine Club.  Thank you for your patronage, and support as we have sorted through a ton of great wines, and a few hiccups in our system.  We have  a great year ahead, and I hope that you will continue to drink well, with us.

This month we have another great group of wines, chosen with winter drinking in mind.  You will visit some of the usual places, and at least one that isn’t.  Drink them with gusto, and enjoy the ride.

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2008 Cadaretta SBS Columbia Valley, Washington

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

You may not have heard of Virginie Bourgue, but if you have one taste of her wine you will fall in love.  Virginie is the winemaker for an ambitious new winery in Walla Walla called Cadaretta that released its first wines, in 2008.

Virginie grew up in Bonnieux, Provence in the South of France, and her winemaking style combines the best elements of Washington wine—intense fruit and concentration of flavor—with a sense of restraint that is more typical of wines from France.   Virginie credits a combination of her family’s agricultural roots, her mother’s restaurant and her own degree in science for her decision to pursue winemaking.  She says that “studying winemaking allowed me to use my scientific backround, and my palate.  To combine knowledge [of science and agriculture] with the unexplainable: flavors.  Winemaking is the best way to put them both together.”

This wine is a blend of 79% Sauvignon Blanc and 21% Semillon that sees no oak.  Only 1,000 cases were produced.  Try it with quiche, golden beet salad, or macaroni and cheese.  Drink now – 2011.

2008 St. Urbans-Hof Urban Riesling Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

Although vineyards had belonged to the Weis family for centuries, Nicolaus Weis (vintage 1905, Nik Weis’ grandfather) founded the winery in 1947. In the early years he built cellars and winery buildings on a hill on Leiwen’s periphery. He named his estate for the patron saint of German winemakers, St. Urban, and ‘hof’ (the German word for ‘estate’), St. Urban’s Estate.

In the 1960s his son, Hermann, assumed management of all operations. During Hermann’s tenure the nursery expanded to become one of Germany’s largest. He established himself as a world-recognized vine breeder, especially noted for his work with Riesling. At the beginning of the 1970s he pioneered the use of this noble variety in Canada greatly contributing to the introduction of vitis vinifera into this country still new to quality winemaking. He planted the first large parcel of Riesling vines in the Niagara Peninsula under the title of St. Urban Vineyard, later to become Vineland Estates Winery.

Hermann was always interested in, and so kept his canny eye cocked towards, purchasing top Mosel vineyards. In 1989 he purchased some of the Mosel and Saar’s top sites in the high-level villages of Piesport, Ockfen, and Wiltingen.

Together with his wife Ida, a daughter of the Saar, he extended his vineyard area to the relatively expansive 33 hectares (approx. 82 acres).

In 1997, their son, Nik(olaus) joined the winery. Father and son together restructured the vineyard holdings by selling off those of lesser quality and acquiring further parcels of greater quality. 2004 heralded another expansion for the Weis family with Nik’s marriage to Daniela who added to the family’s holdings with her’s of the Mehringer Blattenberg. Nik and Daniela’s family today includes their small children Nic(olaus) and Clara.

A blend of estate vineyards, the Urban is Nik’s light and friendly wine, and as such, it makes really good drinking right now, as you are reading this note, before you’ve even put away the rest of the wines.  fruity, crisp, and moderately sweet the only work you need to do for this wine is to pour it into another vessel (a decanter or water pitcher) to give it some air before you drink it.  Try it with crab, sablefish, and Chinese food with a little spice.  Drink now – 2011.

2008 Hermanos del Villar Ipsum Rueda, Spain

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

The Villar Brothers founded Bodegas Hermanos Villar in 1995, owning 247 Acres of vineyards in the town of Rueda. The widely planted grape varieties are: white – Verdejo, Sauvignon Blanc, Viura and red –Tempranillo.

The vineyards are located southwest of Ribera del Duero, in the town of Rueda at altitude of 2,359 feet.  cold nights and hot days and low to moderate rainfall gives grapes a long growing season to ripen resulting in wines with more complexity and greater aromatic intensity. The cool nights help in retaining the acidity of the grapes, resulting in wines that are fresh and crisp.

The unique soil profile makes wines from these vineyards distinct from other vineyards in the region. Deep, with a thick surface of gravel and sand topsoil providing good water drainage and a dry-healthy environment for ripening grapes. The subsoil is composed of active limestone and water retaining clay, conserving moisture during the dry, active growing season of the vines. Soil poor in organic matter gives lower yields, increasing intensity of flavors.

This wine is made from 60% Verdejo and 40% Viura grapes.  The flavors are vibrant and crisp, ecompassing tropical fruits, grapefruit, jalepeno peppers and a host of other lively aromas and flavors.  The palate is more restrained than the nose, but only a little bit.  Try this with goat cheese, shrimp or scallops, and all manner of rice dishes.  Drink now – 2010

2004 Poggio Bertaio Stucchio, Umbria, Italy

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

The estate’s vineyard Poggio Bertaio was born in 1972 when Fabio, father of the current owners, moved from Castelli Romani to Castiglione del Lago and bought the first part of the soils.  Here he planted some hectars of vineyards, in order to keep his passion for wine alive.

The two sons grew up and while Ugo dedicated himself to the management of the family’s winery, Fabrizio undertook the career of oenologist and cooperated with important estates.

The increasing of his success encouraged Fabrizio to take a stab at his own vineyard in order to test different methods and check some ideas with the aim of achieving the “ideal wine”. His work was driven by his previous experience.

At last, with the vintage 1998 the new cellar was ready and from the winemaking of the grapes of the old vineyards the brothers decided to to make the first bottles of “Cimbolo”.

The estate’s vineyard is located in Castiglione del Lago, close to Perugia, at an elevation of 304m (997 ft). It consists of 40 hectars of soil, 20 of which cultivated with grapevine. The vineyards are on the south and the breeding is a cordon spur which has 1600 blocks per hectare in 1972 and 5000 blocks in the new vineyard planted between 1998 and 2004. The grapes yield is 500 kilos per hectare.  It is a carbonate-array soil.

This wine, called Stucchio, which means field maple in the local dialect because this is where the vines first clung to, is made from 100% Sangiovese, and aged for 12 months in 4 to 5 year old oak, then for additional time in the bottle.  Try it with Bolognese pasta, pizza, lentil soup.  Drink now – 2010.

2006 Yalumba Shiraz-Viognier, Barossa, Australia

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

Yalumba was founded in 1849 by Samuel Smith, British migrant and English brewer, who had brought his family to Angaston seeking a new life. After purchasing a 30-acre parcel of land just beyond the southern-eastern boundary of Angaston, Smith and his son began planting the first vines by moonlight. Samuel named his patch “Yalumba” – aboriginal for “all the land around”.

Five generations and 160 years later Yalumba, Australia’s oldest family owned winery, has grown in size and stature, embodying all that has made the Australian wine success story the envy of winemakers the world over.

This wine is made from Shiraz from 25-30 year old vines.  Some of which is co-fermented with Viognier to help fix the color and intensify the aromatics.  The wine is medium-full bodied, with intensely fruity aromas and flavors, and hints of cedar and spice from the moderate oak treatment.  Try this with pork chops, sweet potatoes, or barbecue ribs.   Drink now – 2011.

Domaine de Couron Côtes du Rhône-Village, France

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

The Village of St. Marcel d’Ardèche, home to Domaine de Couron, lies along the boundary at which Provence is said to begin.  35 miles northwest of Avignon, lying on the limestone plateau that seperates the northern Rhône from the southern Rhône, at St. Marcel the climate changes from continental to Mediterannean, the skies turn blue, and the light becomes limpid.  Olive trees begin to dot the landscape, and the grapes switch from the near monoculture of Syrah in the North, to the patchwork of varieties that makes the southern Rhône valley such an exciting wine region.

St. Marcel in general, and Domaine de Couron in particular, have been planted to grape vines since Roman times.  The vineyards of the domaine were owned by the family of a Roman soldier until the dissolution of the Roman Empire in the area (around 476 AD) after which they passed to the church, and were given as tribute to soldiers returning to the crusades.  Since then the vineyards have passed through many hands.  The Domaine is currently owned by Jean-Luc and Marie-Lise Dorthe.

This wine, from the exceptional, and soon to be legendary 2007 vintage, consists of Grenache, Mourvedre, and Syrah in nearly equal proportions.  It is a great example of its kind, full of spice and black fruit, and dried herbs: full-bodied, but not heavy.  Try it with fish of all sorts, ham, or goose with kumquat stuffing.  Drink now – 2012.

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