The Next Big Thing All Red - Dec 09

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Wines from The Next Big Thing All Red in December 2009

 

The Next Big Thing – December 2009

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

The Club this month is full of excitement.  A world class Oregon Pinot Noir, and a 143 year-old vine Shiraz (sort of) are just two of the treats that lie in store for you.

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2002 Bodegas Mattaredonda Libranza Toro, Spain

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

Alfonzo Sanz Rojo owns 62 acres ungrafted Tempranillo vines ranging in age from 70 to 140 years old.  The vineyards are located in the town of el Pego, with 2,480 ft altitude, and a slightly warmer microclimate than the rest of the Toro DO.  Grapes grown here usually ripen earlier, avoiding late September rains.  The soils are sandy and gravelly, allowing the vines to remain phylloxera-free.

In 2000, Alfonzo decided that it was time to start a winery.  The results have been spectacular.   Tempranillo from Toro generally shows darker color, and richer, rounder flavors than that of nearby Ribera del Duero.  This is doubly so for these old vines around the town of el Pego.  Yet despite this tendency for easy drinking wines, the wines from Mattaredonda are imbued with minerality, structure and spirit, probably because of the old vines and the altitude.

Libranza is a selection from a 12 acre parcel of 100 – 140 year old own-rooted vines.  The wine is aged in a combination of new and old French and American Oak for 14 months.  Try this wine with full-flavored meat dishes like spice rubbed leg of lamb, with strong blue cheese, or with roasted root vegetables like turnips, rutabaga and beets.  Drink now – 2020.

2007 Antica Terra Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

First planted in 1989, Antica Terra is a rugged 40 acre parcel in Oregon’s Eola-Amity Hills AVA.  The gently sloping vineyard consists of shallow soil underlayed by sandstone and siltstone formed by old alluvium, thus Antica Terra.

The wines from Antica Terra have always shown great promise, but been inconsistent to a frustrating degree.  In 2005, that all changed as a new group of owners took over with visions of producing world class Pinot Noir.  Upgrades to the vineyard, and a regimen of sustainable agriculture have been employed to make sure that winemaker Maggie Harrison has be the best raw materials.

The results were immediately obvious, but the 2007, from a challenging year in the Willamette Valley, has shown the team’s new metal.  This is a wine that is both deeply flavored, and extraordinarily elegant, and while it is definitely from Oregon, it has that nervosity, and character, that we love so much from Burgundy.

Try this with French onion soup, beef stew, or anything with mushrooms.  Drink now – 2018

2005 Langmeil The Orphan Block Shiraz, Barossa, Australia

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

In 1996, after a series of neglectful owners, Richard Linder, Carl Lindner and Chris Bitter purchased the languishing vineyards and winery that had been Paradale Winery, and included a small plot of Shiraz vines planted in 1843 by Christian Auricht, a settler in Barossa who had fled religious persecution in his native Silesia (central Europe).

With what are thought to be the oldest living Syrah vines in the world, the three friends renamed the winery Langmeil after the original town that encompassed the property, set out to make exceptional Shiraz.  They have succeeded in a fantastic way.

Somewhere along the way, part of Christian Auricht’s vineyard was split off under different ownership.  Upon purchasing the property, it was discovered that this block of vineyard, planted around the same time as the legendary 1943 block, was slated to be torn up to make way for condo development.  10 rows of these exceptionally old vines were rescued, and moved to a different place, and thus became the orphan block.

This wine doesn’t exactly taste like Australian Shiraz, at least not like the cheap stuff we’ve grown accustomed to in the US.  While is does show intense fruit, and more than a dollop of oak (though it was aged in seasoned American and French barrels), it has layers and waves of complex flavors that make it a wine that can be contemplated as well as enjoyed.

Try it with barbecue beef brisket, braised short ribs, or sautéed porcini mushrooms.  Drink now – 2022.

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