The Next Big Thing - Dec '09

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Wines from The Next Big Thing in December 2009

 

The Next Big Thing – December 2009

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

The Club this month is full of excitement.  A world class Oregon Pinot Noir, and a 143 year-old vine Shiraz (sort of) are just two of the treats that lie in store for you.

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2007 Abbazia di Novacella Sylvaner “Praepositus” Alto-Adige, Italy

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

Every well-rounded wine cellar must reserve a place for wines that aren’t part of the current trend, or even part of any trend at all, but are exceptional none-the-less.  It is from these wines that the trends of the future will likely arise, and if they don’t, they will provide delicious drinking when their time comes.

Paradoxically, it is often from wines made using ancient techniques and traditions that were abandoned in the technological age that capture the interest of modern drinkers and collectors alike.  Enter Abbazia di Novacella.

Abbazia di Novacella, is an abbey founded in 1142 by Augustinian Monks.  It is a working farm, and a school for boys.  They focus on the native grapes of the region, and as such, Sylvaner and Kerner, along with Veltliner, and to a lesser extent Müller-Thurgau, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Noir, Schiavia and Lagrein are their grapes.  The wines are made using many traditional techniques, included extended skin contact for the whites, and ageing in Acacia barrels.

The Sylvaner Praepositus comes from sandy clay soil at 1800-2100 feet of elevation near the Austrian Border.  The wine is fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel, but aged in 30hl Acacia Casks for five months, before resting a further 3 months in bottle.  This is unique, and delicious wine that comfortably walks the line between minerally and rich.

Try it with potato and onion tart, breaded pork cutlet, or beet salad.  Drink now – 2015.

2007 Antica Terra Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

First planted in 1989, Antica Terra is a rugged 40 acre parcel in Oregon’s Eola-Amity Hills AVA.  The gently sloping vineyard consists of shallow soil underlayed by sandstone and siltstone formed by old alluvium, thus Antica Terra.

The wines from Antica Terra have always shown great promise, but been inconsistent to a frustrating degree.  In 2005, that all changed as a new group of owners took over with visions of producing world class Pinot Noir.  Upgrades to the vineyard, and a regimen of sustainable agriculture have been employed to make sure that winemaker Maggie Harrison has be the best raw materials.

The results were immediately obvious, but the 2007, from a challenging year in the Willamette Valley, has shown the team’s new metal.  This is a wine that is both deeply flavored, and extraordinarily elegant, and while it is definitely from Oregon, it has that nervosity, and character, that we love so much from Burgundy.

Try this with French onion soup, beef stew, or anything with mushrooms.  Drink now – 2018

2005 Langmeil The Orphan Block Shiraz, Barossa, Australia

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

In 1996, after a series of neglectful owners, Richard Linder, Carl Lindner and Chris Bitter purchased the languishing vineyards and winery that had been Paradale Winery, and included a small plot of Shiraz vines planted in 1843 by Christian Auricht, a settler in Barossa who had fled religious persecution in his native Silesia (central Europe).

With what are thought to be the oldest living Syrah vines in the world, the three friends renamed the winery Langmeil after the original town that encompassed the property, set out to make exceptional Shiraz.  They have succeeded in a fantastic way.

Somewhere along the way, part of Christian Auricht’s vineyard was split off under different ownership.  Upon purchasing the property, it was discovered that this block of vineyard, planted around the same time as the legendary 1943 block, was slated to be torn up to make way for condo development.  10 rows of these exceptionally old vines were rescued, and moved to a different place, and thus became the orphan block.

This wine doesn’t exactly taste like Australian Shiraz, at least not like the cheap stuff we’ve grown accustomed to in the US.  While is does show intense fruit, and more than a dollop of oak (though it was aged in seasoned American and French barrels), it has layers and waves of complex flavors that make it a wine that can be contemplated as well as enjoyed.

Try it with barbecue beef brisket, braised short ribs, or sautéed porcini mushrooms.  Drink now – 2022.

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