February '09
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This includes all of the wines we shipped in February
Thursday, February 19th, 2009
This month I had a little fun. The main event is a comparison of two relatively unknown, totally stunning, Syrahs. One is a tiny producer in Napa Valley, who is obsessed in the best sort of way, and the other is a tiny producer from Cornas, in the Northern Rhône Valley, who is also, totally obsessed. For those of you who get both white and red, the white this month is my favorite domestic Chardonnay, again, a tiny production item. For those who get all red, the third bottle is a stunning Pinot Noir from Burgundy.
To get the details of your wines, along with links, pictures and maps, follow the links below.
For The Next Big Thing, click here
For The Next Big Thing all red, click here
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Tags: 29 Songs, Burgundy, Cornas, David Clark, Hirsch Vineyards, Napa, Sonoma Coast, Vincent Paris
Thursday, February 19th, 2009
This month we stick close to home, never leaving France. We begin with a light-hearted sparkler from Beaujolais, don’t laugh, it’s really good! Then two excellent, Grand Cru Champagnes from small producers. One made from mostly Pinot Noir form the Grand Cru of Aÿ, and the other all Chardonnay from the underrated Grand Cru of Oger. All of this just in time for the Oscars! a Champagne occasion if ever there was one.
For all of the details, repleat with links, pictures and even a map (up in a couple of hours), click here
Posted in Champagne and Sparkling Wine Society - February '09, February '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Beaujolais, Champagne, Gatinois, Grand Cru, Jean Milan, Sparkling Wine, Terres Dorées
Thursday, February 19th, 2009
Hirsch Vineyards was established in 1980 on a ridge overlooking the ocean at Fort Ross, Sonoma County . . . . From the start all efforts have been on the growing of fruit that makes wines profoundly characteristic of the site vintage after vintage. Time is our most valuable asset, and as only time can judge a wine to be a valid expression of its site, we have focused our vision on the long term. To this end we have dedicated ourselves to live and work on site in order to discover by farming and, more recently, winemaking, a valid philosophy of viticulture that will harmonize our inputs with the constantly changing effects of a dramatic geology and problematic climate. . . . We are constantly on guard that science, consultants, or techniques serve, not co-opt, our intentions. . . . This complex, unique site produces fruit and wines of unusual acidity and balance with a vintage specific concentration of pinot noir or chardonnay fruit. These are wines to be enjoyed now or laid down for future consumption. We are not interested in the culture of cult. Wine is one of the mysteries that mirrors the depth and inscrutability of Life itself; and as we have been taught by book and fable, it is a gift to be shared, cherished, respected, and most importantly enjoyed. - from the Hirsch Vineyards and Winery Website
The above quote from Hirsch’s website is as good of a description of their wines as I could ever give. The Pinot Noirs, which have a slightly larger production, as among my favorite from California, and rank with my favorites from anywhere. But this Chardonnay, which is made in miniscule quantities (360 cases), and is often a bit cloudy, floors me every time I have it. Though it is unmistakably from California, it has the structure, the nervosity, of a great white Burgundy. I can’t get enough!
Here is a wine for Salmon (grilled, or even poached), or for black truffles, or for Foie Gras (better yet, Foie Gras with Truffles). Or, forget about the food, and just drink the wine . . . food is so overrated. This is a wine that will age admirably, yet it drinks well now. Drink now – 2015.
This is a link to a “map” of the blend for the 2006 Chardonnay, basically what blocks were blended together. I love this kind of geeky perfectionism.
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Tags: California, Chardonnay, Hirsch Vineyards and Winery, Sonoma Coast
Thursday, February 19th, 2009
This is the first of two Syrahs this month. I thought a study of two styles, both of which I find stunning, would be a great rumination on why Syrah can be such a special wine.
Vincent Paris, whose first vintage was 1997, is as shy as his wines are bold. In his early 30’s, he has retro sideburns, but not much else in the Cornas appellation’s new star is “retro”. Vincent’s uncle is Robert Michel, one of Cornas’ finest growers. He made his two first wines with his uncle then, seeking autonomy, rented facilities for the vinification of his most recent wines. He is in the process of building his own winemaking facilities with a courtyard that holds his apricot plantation.
Vincent Paris, co-president of the appellation of Cornas with Jacques Lemencier, owns 6 hectares of vineyards and produces about 2,500cs per year of which 1,600cs are Cornas. He inherited most of his own vines from his grandfather (some of which are 90 years old) and has also rented some vines from his uncle. Vincent’s total rented and owned holdings amount to 8 hectares. They are located at different places primarily along the southeast facing Cornas slope and a small lot in St. Joseph.
He prunes to only four bunches of grapes per vine (the norm is between five and seven) which concentrates the vines’ growing power and cuts down on the need for green harvests. He ferments at relatively low temperatures and matures his wine in oak barrels for up to 12 months.
The Cornas Granit 30 and 60 designations refer to the soil, the approximate age of the vines, and the slope on which they are planted. The Granit 30 is concentrated black fruit in a relatively “consumer friendly”style – perhaps a bit more Syrah-ish than Cornas-ish, whereas the 60 is classic Cornas – dense, aromas of kidney and iron, with a terrific mineral underpinning.
This wine is dense and heady, and almost musky, but has enough rich, layered fruit to be attractive rather than weird. This is a wine for game, venison, elk (ideal), squab, and for big blue cheese. I recommend decanting it for a good hour before drinking it. This is also a wine that will continue to improve for some time, and will probably begin to be at its best in 2 or 3 years. Drink 2012 – 2018.
Posted in February '09, The Next Big Thing - Feb '09, The Next Big Thing All Red - Feb '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Cornas, France, Old Vines, Rhône Valley, Syrah, Vincent Paris
Thursday, February 19th, 2009
For the second wine in our Syrah comparison, my favorite California Syrah, and one of my favorite wines of the last few years. This is a cult wine in the making if ever I saw one.
29 Songs is a bottling of 100% Syrah produced from a single, 1.7 acre block of vines located in the Southern end of the Napa Valley. Kelly Wheat, the winemaker and owner, has chosen the approximately 260 cases of this wine that he makes each year as the sole output of his own label. He works collaboratively with the vineyard owner, with whom he signed a long-term contract while the vineyard was still fallow, and is deeply involved in every aspect of his own tiny production.
Kelly Wheat says of his wine, “My goal with 29 Songs is to make a wine of intensity without allowing power to substitute for beauty. A wine of generous texture that also retains its structure. A wine that is allowed to reflect its cellar as well as its varietal identity. My winemaking decisions are always in service to those goals. They don not arise out of fear of what might go awry, but out of continuously seeking an understanding of the harmonies and complexities of growing and making wine. It is a life-long process.”
To me, it is everything good about Napa Valley wines, and about Syrah, and about small, artisan winemakers, all rolled into one. You’ve really got to try this wine to understand.
This is a big wine, but it has an absolutely uplifting structure that allows the oak, fruit and even, dare I say with a California wine, a bit of terrior to shine through. It is also a great wine for food. This is a wine that is stunning with lamb and wild game, but also with wet barbecue (Louisana style) and all manner of smoked or grilled things. Drink now – 2016.
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Tags: 29 Songs, California, Kelly Wheat, Napa Valley, Syrah
Thursday, February 19th, 2009
This is a really fun wine from a really geeky producer, proving once again that geeks are more fun! Jean Paul Brun is VERY serious about Beaujolais, some would say more serious than the appellation deserves. He adheres to a self-imposed set of purity rules that include: using only naturally occurring, indigenous yeast (almost all of the other producers use a Dutch Yeast that results in banana flavor); he refuses to chaptalize (the process of increasing the alcohol of a wine through adding sugar before fermentation in order to allow you pick unripe grapes and still make wine); and adds virtually no sulphur to his wines, preferring to leave a little of the naturally occurring C02 from fermentation in the bottle to maintain freshness. His still wines have reminded many wine drinkers, including this one, that Beaujolais can be good.
This is an altogether different wine, though its roots lie in the same instincts that produce Brun’s excellent still wines. This is a petillant wine, rather than a fully sparkling one, and it is produced through the Méthode Ancienne. The difference between Méthode Champenoise and Méthode Ancienne is that while Chapenoise wines (virtually all quality sparkling wines in the world) are made using two separate fermentations, one for alcoholic fermentation, and a second (started by adding sugar) for the bubbles which takes place in the bottle, the Ancienne Method involves letting the wine begin to ferment, then throwing it in the bottles and sealing it for good, hoping that it keeps going and doesn’t explode!. The result is wine that has a bit of sugar left in it (though natural sugar, from the grapes) and a medium level of bubbles.
Here’s why it’s called FRV 100: The phonetic pronunciation of FRV 100 in English is EFF ARE VEE ONE HUNDRED. In French, it is EFF ERR VAY SON – in other words EFFERVESCENT! And the name fits perfectly with the wine, it’s FUN above all else.
Tart, sweet fruit, a modest amount of bubbles, and a great, intense pink color. This wine reminds me of Spring. Drink this with anything salty, or with anything that is moderately sweet (no marshmallows, but it’s awfully good with a lemon tart). Drink this wine NOW!!!! It won’t get any better – but when it’s this good, who cares!
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Tags: Beaujolais Petillant, Gamay, Rose, Sparkling, Terres Dorées
Thursday, February 19th, 2009
The boutique Champagne house of Gatinois is located in the lovely village of Äy, in the Vallée de Marne. The town of Äy is probably best-known as the home of such famous Grandes Marques as Bollinger, Gosset and Deutz, but it also boasts some of the best small grower-récoltant producers as well, foremost amongst them Champagne Gatinois. Äy is one of the most important villages in all of Champagne, as it vineyards are all ranked as grand cru and it is considered one of the very top sources for pinot noir in the Champagne region. The current head of the house is Pierre Cheval-Gatinois, who has been at the helm of this lovely house since the early 1980s, and oversees just over seven hectares of vineyards that the family owns in Äy. For many years the family primarily made its living as grape growers, with much of its production earmarked each year to be sold to Bollinger. Monsieur Cheval-Gatinois continues to sell of about half of his crop to the Grande Marques, including Bollinger, to this day, but with each passing year he is bottling more of his production on his own. Pierre Cheval-Gatinois is very much the Champenois traditionalist (with his family dating back eleven generations as vignerons in the region), and has spoken out repeatedly about the potential pitfalls of using new oak in the fermentation and elevage of Champagne, which has been gaining adherents amongst several of his fellow grower-récoltants in the region.
The village of Aÿ is incredibly well known for its traditional (i.e., old) Pinot Noir clone which, compared to Côte d’Or Pinot, has a bracing level of acidity. The Pinot tannins, however, are neither bitter nor drying in the mouth. The structure is impeccable: firm, and with great definition.
Gatinois is one of the few remaining houses that still owns a plot planted with the traditional clone of the region, Petit Pinot d’Aÿ. Walking in the vineyard, the clonal differences are apparent and shocking. Next to the younger vines, Gatinois’s petit pinot vines look like dwarfs: they are roughly half as tall as their younger counterparts. They are also extremely thick with gnarled trunks that supply their low yield bunches with exceptionally rich sap. The vines yield a miniscule 2.5 tons per acre, about half the average yield in Champagne. It is composed mostly of the 2004 vintage, along with a little from 2003 and 2005.
The Brut Grand Cru, made from 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay, is robust enough to hold up to a meal. It’s less creamy and toasty than some big name Champagnes, and its fruity flavors match a meal of roast chicken or even gamier birds, or a pork chop on the grill. Don’t drink this with Dessert! Drink now – 2013.
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Tags: Ay, Brut, Champagne, Gatinois
Thursday, February 19th, 2009
Champagne Jean Milan is a tiny family run outfit with a small vineyard holding in the Champagne Grand Cru of Oger in the Côte de Blancs. Father and son work in the vineyards and make the wine, doing nearly everything themselves including riddling and disgorgement, Mom manages the office, and daughter is the director of sales. They are known for . . . actually, they’re not really known at all! But their wines are made from 100% Chardonnay from their own vineyards, and a select few extra grapes from their neighbor’s vineyards, also in Oger.
The average age of the vines is 32 years old (an eon for Champagne), and the soil is about 27 inches deep, on top of chalk. There is nothing fancy about the winemaking here, they hand harvest, press the grapes in a traditional Cocquard press, hand riddle (the painfully slow turning of the bottle to move the yeast from the secondary fermentation up the neck for disgorgement), and hand disgorge (the process of getting the yeast out of the bottle by freezing it, removing the cap, and letting it fly). Wines that are hand-made on this scale, from exceptional terroir such as this, are nearly always exceptional, and Jean Milan is no exception. This wine has a very low dosage of 6 gm/liter and could technically be called an extra brut.
The Brut Spéciale is a non-vintage blanc de blancs (this cuvée is a blend of the 2004 and 2005 vintages, disgorged in 2008). The flavors are at once intensely fruity, and delightfully minerally, with elegance and class to spare. This is a lot like my imaginary ideal Champagne: no heaviness here, just layers of flavor and delicate, persistent bubbles. This is an excellent aperitif Champagne, but also goes wonderfully with fish (especially fish quenelles in cucumber sauce, one of Daisley Gordon’s triumphant interpretations of classic French cuisine at Campagne). Please don’t serve this with dessert. This will improve over the next couple of years, as the secondary aromas start to really take hold and it develops some biscuity, floral character. Drink now – 2013.
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Tags: Blanc de Blanc Grand Cru, Champagne, Jean Milan, Oger
Thursday, February 19th, 2009
Riesling is an underappreciated grape in the United States. In Germany, this is not the case. Germany is unique among wine-producing countries in that its output, and reputation, are based almost entirely on one grape: Riesling. Considerations of climate, tradition, and momentum all factor into Germany’s Riesling fanaticism, but the truth is that Riesling from Germany is also incredibly good.
Because of the cool climate in Germany, the main challenge, even with a white grape, is in getting them ripe, the Germans have instituted a system of classifications called Pradikats for their best wines, indicating how ripe the grapes were when they w
ere harvested. Kabinett signifies that the grapes were fully ripe, but not overripe. German wines are also often a little (to a lot) sweet, which is necessary to balance the intense acidity of Riesling grapes grown in cool climates. Though there has been a trend towards drier wines in Germany, it is not clear that these are necessarily better wines.
The Mosel River in Germany gives its name to the surrounding wine region, which is considered by many to one of the greatest places in the world for Riesling. Steep slopes surround the river, allowing the vineyards to benefit from extra sun reflecting from the river itself, and from the better sun exposure that the slope affords. The soil composed of slate, which in combination with the cool climate, makes wines with both powerful acidity and great delicacy. Trittenheim, just north of the city of Trier, has two famous vineyards: Altärchen and Apotheke.
Freiderich Wilhelm Gymnasium was founded in 1561 by Jesuits in adjunct to their school, which still exists. The vineyards were acquired as donations from the students’ parents. The Cellars are in Trier, and though they are more than 400 years old, this is a very clean, modern facility, with the capability to produce excellent wines. The estate is directed by Helmut Kranich, the former manager of Langwerth von Simmern.
This is a crisp, off-dry wine, with lots citrus, honeysuckle and tart stonefruit aromas. It also has a little bit of maturity, so the diesel exhaust aspect of the aroma (a product of Riesling grown on slate soils) is beginning to kick in, in a very pleasant way. The classic pairing for this wine would be with schnitzel (breaded pork or veal cutlets), but it goes wonderfully with anything salty and crisp. This is a wine to drink now – 2010.
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Tags: Freidrich Wilhelm Gymnasium, Germany, Kabinett, Mosel, Riesling
Thursday, February 19th, 2009
Beresan is one of the truly great, really small, producers in the Walla Walla Valley. Owned by the Waliser Family, who have been farming the Walla Walla Valley since they emigrated from the Beresan region of Odessa, Ukraine, first to North Dakota, and then, during the dust bowl years, to Walla Walla. Tom Waliser, the family patriarch is now one of the most respected vineyard managers in the area, and in addition to his own vineyards, is the vineyard manager for Pepperbridge Vineyard among others.
Beresan gets all of their grapes from the three vineyards that they own: Waliser Estate Vineyard and Yellow Jacket Vineyard in “the 
rocks” (an area of Walla Walla that lies over an ancient, pebble strewn river-bed, and was made famous by Christophe Baron’s Cayuse Vineyards) and Beresan Estate Vineyard, on a terrace surrounding the Waliser home, next to Pepperbridge Vineyard. The fruit for the Semillon comes entirely from the Beresan Estate Vineyard, whose two acres only producers enough grapes for about 100 cases of Semillon each year.
Semillon, long thought to be one of the white grapes that Washington does best with, isn’t very popular. Because of this, despite its potential, not much ends up being made. However, when it is made well, Washington Semillon makes delightful wines, as is the case with this very limited bottling.
This wine sees no oak, yet has a delightful richness comes from the grapes themselves. I also love the almost waxy texture that the wine has. This is a great everyday drinking wine, because it goes with almost everything, but it is especially good with roast sweet potatoes, herb-roasted chicken, or hard cheeses. This is a wine to enjoy now, but it also develops a pleasant nuttiness with age. Drink now -2011.
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Tags: Beresan, Semillon, Walla Walla Valley, Washington
Thursday, February 19th, 2009
The Macon, lying in the south of Burgundy, and sharing some territory with Beaujolais to its south, is both a part of, and apart from the rest of Burgundy. The wines from the region have been lauded as far back as 300 AD when Ausonius, the Roman poet of St. Emilion in Bordeaux wrote about them. The soil is similar to that of Burgundy, sandy clay over limestone, and the climate is similar, though The Mâcon is a little closer to the Mediterranean, and thus a bit warmer, and a bit stormier. The main difference is that the côte (hillside) on which all of the best vineyards in Burgundy lie has given way to soft, rolling hills in the Mâcon. 
Because of this, wines from the Mâcon are often less intense than the best in Burgundy.
The region is planted almost entirely to Chardonnay, and the best wines from the region are all made from Chardonnay grapes. What Mâcon wines lack in intensity, they make up for in drinkability. The wines are almost always ready to drink when they are released, and range in flavor from delightful, crisp, fruity quaffing wines, to slightly richer, slightly more serious quaffing wines. These are rarely wines to ponder or pontificate about, but they are awfully fun to drink.
With just over 60 acres of vineyards, Cave Talmard makes a number of different cuvees, and the Mâcon-Uchizy (from the village, or cru, of Uchizy) is one of the top wines. The grapes are machine harvested (which is very common in the Mâcon), but the winery is gravity fed, very clean, and produces consistently delicious wines.
This dry, medium-bodied wine is full of juicy green apply fruit, and has a great balance of creamy richness and crisp acidity. Think about pairing this with white fish prepared in any number of ways, including baked or poached in Court Bouillon. Enjoy this wine now – 2011.
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Tags: Burgundy, Chardonnay, Mâcon, Talmard, Uchizy
Thursday, February 19th, 2009
Capçanes is actually the name of a Village, inland from Tarragonia, in the Priorato hills, in the wine region of Montsant (the Priorat region is situated like a hole to Montsant’s donut) on the Mediterranean coast of Spain. Prior to the outbreak of Phylloxera in the late 19th Century, the village was densely planted, but after Phylloxera, only about 1/5 of the previous vineyard area was re-planted, mostly to Garanacha (Grenache), and many of these original 100-plus-year-old vineyards still exist. About the time of the replanting, five of the families in the village banded together to create a cooperative to efficiently process the region’s grapes and sell them on the bulk market, the result was La Bodega Capçanes.
Around 1995, the local Jewish Community asked the cooperative to make a Kosher wine for them. This required an 
extensive investment in new equipment and a new focus on selection and quality, which, along with the success of neighboring Priorat inspired the cooperative to begin making a small amount of top quality wines. The Kosher wines are sold under the Flor de la Primavera label, and are consistently rated among the best Kosher wines in the world.
Mas Donis is made from 80% Grenache from 8 – 40 year old plantings around the village of Capçanes, and 20% Syrah from the same vineyards. The vineyards are located on a variety of soils, from low altitude, more fertile slopes, to higher altitude (450 meters), steeper slopes featuring the poor granite/slate soils that are common to the region. The warm Mediterranean climate gets the grapes fully ripe, and makes for intense, juicy wines. The Syrah is aged for three months in new oak barrels.
This wine is full of liqueur-like cherry and raspberry fruit, with hints of white pepper, smoke, and lilac perfume. The wine is lip-smackingly juicy, and surprisingly complex for such a “fun” wine. This is a great match for roast pork, even barbecue ribs, but it is also a surprisingly good pairing with all types of fish (if you like big red wine, and like fish, this is one of the best combinations you will ever find). Drink this wine now – 2012
Follow this link for a Spanish Wine Region Map in PDF format
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Tags: Capcanes, Garnacha, Montsant, Spain, Syrah
Thursday, February 19th, 2009
There are times when one has to forgive a label, and this is definitely one. But underneath this tragic label lies a really phenomenal wine. Viña Chocalan is the pet project of Guillermo Toro, a captain of Chilean industry, one of whose businesses included producing the glass bottles for a large part of the giant Chilean Wine Industry. In 1996, he began to realize his dream by purchasing a beautiful tract of land among the steep hills of the Melipilla region of the Maipo Valley, one of Chile’s premiere wine-growing areas.
In true industrialist style, no expense was spared on the facilities or the vineyards, and the results have been spectacular. But make n
o mistake, this isn’t just a vanity project: the facility has been expertly designed, with an eye towards blending with the environment and producing exceptional wines. All of Guillermo’s children are employed in the winery, and the winery is committed to, and certified in, a very holistic sustainability system that takes into account not only the vineyards, but the health and safety of their workers and the long-term quality of their product. More importantly, the wines so far (the first vintage was 2003) have been outstanding.
For the club, I have chosen my favorite Chilean specialty, Carmenère. One of the original grape varieties in Bordeaux, Carmenère was not replanted after Phylloxera wiped out the Bordelaise vineyards at the end of the 19th century. However, it had already been brought to Chile, though somewhere along the way, had been mixed up with Merlot (to which it bears only a tiny resemblance). Until the late 1990’s, when people began investigating the curious charaticsertics of Chilean “Merlot” only to discover that it wasn’t, it is estimated that more than half of the wine labeled 
Merlot in Chile actually came from Carmenère grapes. The differences in flavor are striking: Carmenère has a spicy, olivey, black fruit character, compared to Merlot’s rich, direct red fruit flavor. Praise mistakes, because if it hadn’t been misidentified, there probably wouldn’t be nearly so much Carmenère in Chile, and the resulting wines are full of character, verve, and uniqueness.
This wine is medium-bodied, and emphasizes the fruity aspects of the grape over the spicy vegetal aspects, though it captures just enough of the spicy character to make the wine really fun. Only 20% of the wine sees a six-month maturation in new oak barrels, while the remainder rests in temperature controlled stainless steel. This is a great wine to drink with braised beef (stew, shortribs) or with less fatty cuts of beef like flank steak on the grill. It’s also a great aperitif red, that goes admirably with cheese and charcuterie. Drink now – 2012.
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Tags: Carmenère, Chile, Guillermo Toro, Maipo Valley, Melipilla, Viña Chocalan
Thursday, February 19th, 2009
Since my days at Campagne, I have always liked this wine, because it is so tasty, and because it really tastes like Syrah, even though it comes from the Languedoc, which isn’t known for the varietal character of its wines. Here is Peter Weygandt’s (the importer) description of the estate:
The 1991 Corbieres of Guilhem Durand received a review in The Wine Advocate of 88 points. It was 70% Syrah. In 1993 Durand lost his property but has been able to get it back. The 1994 vintage was his first, since reacquisition, and our selection had an even higher proportion of Syrah-virtually all Syrah. Therefore, since one is not allowed to state the varietal in conjunction with appellation Corbieres (under French Law), Durand and I have “de-classified” his Wine to Hauterive, and can thus state Syrah on the label. And it is certainly oozing with Syrah-deep purple, extracted color, loads of fruit, ripe, soft tannins, and great texture, all due at least in part to not filtering.
The grapes come from relatively young vines planted on quartz soils with lots of stones and pebbles that help to reflect the heat of the sun well into the evenings. The wine sees no oak ageing, and very little is done to it, except to let it ferment and settle, perhaps this is why the wine is so good!
Though this is a wine capable of aging for a few years, it is delicious now, and I would have trouble saving any that was in my cellar. Pair this with daube (Provençal Lamb Stew with olives) or with duck or another full-flavored poultry. It is also great with wild mushrooms and wild rice (now you know what I had for dinner last night). Drink this now – 2015
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Tags: Corbieres, Domaine la Bastide, France, Guilhem Durand, Syrah
Thursday, February 19th, 2009
Eric Solomon, the importer of the wine, explains that “this project is the brainchild of Jean-Luc Thunevin and Jean-Roger Calvet and is limited to only a few hectares of old vines planted on black schist. Jean-Luc Thunevin made his first mark on the wine world with (what is now) the cult wine Chateau Valandraud in Bordeaux. Valandraud is recognized as one of the first “garage” wines of Bordeaux. In 2001, he teamed up with Jean-Roger Calvet, a local winemaker who was doing great work with Carignan and Grenache, to produce their first vintage.”
This is as understated as it is brief, but gets the idea across well. Château Valandraud is one of the most sought after wines from Bordeaux, due to its insanely small production, and Jean-Luc’s insane commitment to quality. The black schist soil is geologically identical to the famous “licorella” soil of Priorat in Spain, which is no surprise, because this region, The Fenouillèdes, is very close to Mediterranean Spain. The vineyards, which were Jean-Roger’s contribution to the party, are made up of very old Grenache and Carignan vines that are planted on their own rootstocks, in this case they average about 40 years old, but in the Hugo, the vines are in excess of 60 years old.
The Fenouillèdes is a special place. The climate here is dry, and the soil is particularly infertile. Imagine the set of one of Clint Eastwood’s Spaghetti Western’s and you can get a good approximation of what it looks like. Poor soil, combined with old vines result s in very low yields, and very intensely flavored wines. In the bad old days of French wine, before there were laws protecting appellations, the wines from this area were the preferred strengtheners for the much less sturdy Bordeaux and Burgundy that were being shipped to Great Britain and the New World. After this became illegal, it was said that blending one barrel of wine from The Fenouillèdes (the area is named after the fennel plants that grow like tumbleweed) would give 50 barrels of non-descript plonk enough character to make an enjoyable wine. About thirty years ago, the current generation of vineyard owners began to realize that their parents had wasted an incredible resource, and started to keep their grapes for themselves and make wine.
The winery says that this wine is made from 50% Grenache and 50% Carignan (though Robert Parker seems to think it is made from 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 10% Carignan). The grapes are hand harvested, crushed and fermented and aged in temperature controlled tanks for 18 months. The resulting wine is both powerful and light on its feet, with fresh black fruit, loads of spice and mineral character, and a firm, elegant structure (this is a thoroughbred rather than a Clydesdale). This is a great wine for pork and lamb chops, wild boar (or heirloom varities of pork like Mangolista that have more flavor) but it is also a good candidate to go with just about anything because of its great structure. Drink now -2013.
Posted in February '09, Off the Beaten Path All Red - Feb '09 | 1 Response »
Tags: Carignan, Fenouillèdes, France, Grenache, Jean-Luc Thunevin, Roussillon
Thursday, February 19th, 2009
In 2000, the Castaño family acquired and re-organized some old vineyards located at the lowest part of Sierra Salinas, between the provinces of Murcia and Alicante and decided to have a winery built there. The winery is a state of the art, gravity flow facility on the mountains’ foothills at about 650 meters above sea level. Their goal was to take advantage of the amazing quality Monastrell (Mourvedre) grapes that grow throughout the region. This wine comes only from the 52 hectares of vineyards planted around the winery.
The soils consist of limestone in the highest parts of the valley with stripes of clay in the bottom part. Different viticulture is carried out in both areas and the resulting grapes are vinified and aged separately to create more complexity in the end of the process. After blending, the wine is aged for 4 months in French oak barrels to soften, and add a hint of spicy oak flavor.
This wine consists of mostly Monastrell, with small portions of Garnacha (Grenache), Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. It’s big, dark, and rich, but has an admirable balance that serves it very well. This is a wine for moderately spicy foods that have lots of fat, think carnitas, or Texas style beef brisket, but it’s also a great wine for all hard to semi-soft cheeses, and a great wine to drink with a movie after dinner (it’s just tasty, and it doesn’t require food). Drink this now -2011
Follow this link to a great map of Spain that you can download
Posted in February '09, Off the Beaten Path All Red - Feb '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Alicante, Monastrell, Mourvedre, Sierra Salinas, Spain
Thursday, February 19th, 2009
For more than 40 years, the Harvey family has been growing premium quality wine grapes. In 1996, they also started producing premium wine at Chalk Hill. The grapes in Chalk Hill wines are primarily sourced from four family-owned vineyards in the McLaren Vale district, 40 kilometres south of Adelaide in South Australia. McLaren Vale’s Mediterranean type climate of cool, wet winters and warm, dry summers provides perfect growing conditions for premium grapes. Because of the eminent Sonoma County winery with the same name, the wines are marketed in the United States under the name Wit’s End.
The winery describes the wine perfectly, so rather than muck it up, here is what they say:
Sidetrack is an easy drinking full bodied wine packed full of jammy fruits and great oak integration. The Sidetrack gets its name from John Harvey, and his ability not to finish one task before something more interesting arises. Sidetrack is a blend of 60% Shiraz 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Grenache and was aged in a mix of old and new tight grain French Oak. The wine has a deep plum red colour, with a lifted berry fruit and caramel on the nose. The strong varietal fruit characters on the palate are supported by peppermint, chocolate and some earthy flavours, with a persistent finish. The wine will develop further in the bottle and with good cellaring will be enjoyed through to 2015. Wines sealed under screw cap will benefit from decanting prior to drinking.
Drink this wine with a salty snack, a piece of blue cheese, a grilled chicken, or Thai food, it’s that flexible. It’s also worth noting that wines closed in a screwcap, especially reds, benefit from a rough decanting (splash it around) before drinking.
Posted in February '09, Off the Beaten Path All Red - Feb '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Cab, Chalk Hill, Grenache, McClaren Vale, Shiraz, Syrah, Wit's End
Saturday, December 20th, 2008
“What’s going on here! a lowly Bourgogne . . . this is supposed to be about the next cult wines, have we just been had?” You are about to ask me. I’ll let you answer the question yourself, but please wait until you’ve tried this wine.
David Clark was born in Indianapolis, Indiana, to Scottish Parents (I know, still not promising). They sent him back to the United Kingdom for school, and he finished up with an engineering degree from Cambridge. He worked for a brief time for IBM, but became infatuated with wine, and after drinking his way through France decided to pursue winemaking. He worked the 1997 harvest at Mayacamas in Napa Valley, and the 1998 Harvest at Tahbilk in Australia. While in Australia, he became a software engineer for the Williams Formula One Team. He traveled the world with them for four years, eventually becoming the director of pit stop strategy. In this time, he saved enough money to go to enology school. In 2003 he attended the one-year course that the Lycee Viticole in Beaune. Upon graduating, he purchased a tiny plot outside the village of Morey-St.-Denis. Thus Domaine David Clark was born.
By 2005, an outstanding vintage on all accounts, David had accumulated a bit (1.5 ha) of land, and made nearly 6,000 bottles of wine (bottles, not cases). The wines are stunning. His meticulous vineyard practices and hard work (he is his only employee) have endeared him to his neighbors, and some of the best vignerons in Burgundy sing his praises, no small feat for a foreigner in France, much less the hyper-insular world of Burgundy. Christophe Roumier even sold him a small plot of Gamay to use for his Bourgogne Passetoutgrains, which is the best wine of this appellation that I have ever had.
This wine is from the single vineyard Au Pelson, which David Clark farms organically (he will be certified beginning in 2009). 1888 bottles were made
(157 cases) were made, of which only a few boxes made it to the US. The vineyard yielded 28 hl/ha in 2005, and David made no additions of any sort to the wine (everything here is 100% natural). The wine was aged in 1 four year-old barrique, and one new barrique, though the wine from the new barrique was racked to another old barrique after four months. The resulting “humble” Bourgogne has a depth of flavor, and a focus of fruit and earth that is rare even among Grand Crus, and an aroma that is slow to develop, but haunting when it arrives. In a 2007 interview with Jancis Ronbinson, David said that he is now “getting to the point where [he] wants some more glamorous vines.” (update: he has 4 Ouevres of Vosne-Romanee). The good news here is that the wine is produced in such miniscule quantities that it will take a while for anyone to find out about it. The bad news is that it is awfully hard to get even now.
Although this is a shoe-in for classic red Burgundy pairings like wild mushrooms, braised beef, and anything with truffles, it is also stunning by itself, and probably deserves a little contemplation before being tossed around with food. This is a wine that is drinking wonderfully now, but will also age admirably through 2015 and beyond: I am conservative here, because it is the first vintage, and has no track record.
Posted in December '08, February '09, The Next Big Thing - Dec '08, The Next Big Thing All Red - Feb '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Burgundy, David Clark, Formula One, Mayacamas, Pinot Noir, Roumier, Tahbilk
