January '09

...now browsing by category

Everything Relating the January 2009 Shipment from The Extraordinary Wine Club

 

2006 Damilano Nebbiolo d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy

Sunday, January 18th, 2009

damilano-nebbiolo-labelThe region for Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata, Italy’s most common controlled appellation) is contiguous to the much more prestigious Barolo DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Gaurantita, Italy’s nod to the most famous, and tightly regulated, appellations). The soil and aspect are similar, but perhaps the wines are not quite as fine.  Yet in the hands of an outstanding producer, a Nebbiolo d’Alba can often rival most Barolos: this is just such a case.  The grapes damilanocome from the villages of Monforte d’Alba and Diano d’Alba at elevations of about 1200 ft above sea level.  The vineyards have a near-perfect south-southwest exposure, and the soil is made of calcareous clay, similar to that of most of Barolo.

Damilano was founded in the late 1800’s by Giuseppe Borgogno, grandfather to the current owners, Guido, Margherita, Paolo and Mario Damilano.  They have property in some of the most famous vineyards in Barolo, but also make excellent wines from property in neighboring Alba, often for a quarter of the price of their Barolos.  Giampero Romano, one of the most famous viticultural experts in Italy, manages all of their vineyards (both leased and owned) and garners consistently excellent results.  The wines are made by Giuseppe Caviola, another gifted technician, who is just beginning to receive the critical acclaim he deserves.

Just under 12,000 cases of  the 2006 Damilano Nebbiolo d’Alba were produced.  The wine is harvested, then allowed to sit on the skins for 10 days before undergoing a temperature controlled, cool fermentation (to harness the fruit characters).  The wine is then transferred to French oak barriques (225 L barrels) that are about 50% new, 50% one and two years old, to age for 16 months.  The resulting wine has a firm, velvety structure, a snap of crisp fruit acidity, and lots of lovely violet and black fruit aromas, along with hints of more exotic spice and leather.  Try this wine with with poultry, pork, red meat, Copper or Yukon River Salmon, or with hearty first courses such as roasted or grilled vegetables and hard, salty, cheeses.  Drink now-2017.

2006 El Sequé Vinedos de El Sequé Alicanté, Spain

Sunday, January 18th, 2009

old-vinedos-de-el-seque-labelAlicante has a storied wine history, but in the last 100 years hasn’t been a major force in Spanish wines.  However, as interest in its native variety Monastrell (called Mouvedre or Estrangle Chien in France) develops, people are rediscovering the stunning wines from Alicanté.  Monastrell is one of the few red grapes that really likes hot weather, in alicante-mapfact needs it to ripen (thus the name Estrangle Chien, the dog strangler, in France), and Alicanté, with its hot Mediterranean climate and extra sunlight reflected from the sea delivers heat in abundance.  Alicanté also has very poor soil, high in limestone and poor in clay and fertile humus, that stresses grape vines and provides excellent drainage.  For an added treat, the region is full of really old vines.

One of my favorite ways to find outstanding wines that are “off the beaten path” is to follow gifted winemakers from well-known regions to new projects in lesser-known areas.  They usually go because they are passionate about the potential of the area, and put great personal stake in proving themselves right.  The result for consumers is wines that are made as carefully as the winemaker’s more famous wines at a fraction of the price.  El Sequé is just such a project.  Juan Carlos Lopez, the visionary winemaker behind the Artadi Riojas, purchased forty acres of land in Alicanté juan-carlos-lopezin 1999, and has set out to prove that it is a world-class wine region.   Based on his results so far, I agree.

The 2006 Vinedos el Sequé is made from mostly Monastrell, with hints of Syrah and Cabernet to add complexity.  The wine is made in a very ripe, extracted style, and is a heady dark purple color.  Aromas of black plums, smoke, leather, spice and dried herbs compliment rich, fruit-driven flavors, in this powerful wine that, despite its power, is silken in texture.  This is a great wine for Barbeque, Korean Bulgogi, and very reduced sauces.  This is also a wine that is just fun to drink, so don’t save it for a special occasion, drink it!  Drink now – 2013.

2006 Caravinserail in fine Rouge Côtes du Ventoux, Rhône, France

Sunday, January 18th, 2009

in-fine-rouge-labelCôtes du Ventoux is the name for the large and diverse area in the Southeastern corner of the Rhône Valley that ecompasses all of the land affected by Mount Ventoux, by far the tallest and largest geographical feature in the South of France.  Because of the cold air sliding down the sides of the mountain, this area is cooler and sees more rain than neighboring areas of the Rhône and Provence, and has much cooler nights after the still-blisteringly hot days in the middle of the summer.  The area is also sheltered from the Mistral (the cold, persistent wind that blows from the north down the Rhône Valley in the fall, winter ventoux-vineyardsand spring and stunts the growth of everything).  The resulting wines are similar to those in the rest of the Rhône, but with more delicacy and fresher fruit.

Caravinserail is a second project of Raphaël Trouiller, the proprietor of the currently very in vogue, biodynamically farmed, Domaine de Cascavel also in the Côtes du Ventoux.  Raphaël has almost single-handedly made the Côtes du Ventoux a sought-after wine region by making beautiful, hand-crafted wines from old vines, with catchy names (and big price tags).  With Caravinserail, he has taken the same formula, using younger grapes and less respected varieties, and only a little less flash, and come up with something that is also incredibly delightful.  The names of the wines, in fine, mean “to conclude” in Latin, and it’s almost as if he is saying to all of the other winemakers, after his wild success at Domaine de Cascavel, “and to conclude: even using young vines and inferior grape varieties I can make great wine from this region.  What have you been doing?”

in fine rouge is made from 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah from younger vines on Trouiller’s Domaine de Cascavel estate.  The grapes are farmed entirely biodynically.  in fine is aged in traditional concrete tanks rather than oak, and bottled 8 months after fermentation is complete.  The wine is full of fresh red fruit, peppery spice and dried herb characters.  This is a medium bodied red with lots of spunky character that is wonderful with fresh (read semi-soft) cheeses and lighter meats like pork, white fish, and charcuterie.  Though it is not meant for aging, this wine won’t die early either.  Drink now – 2012.

Wines from Off the Beaten Path – January 09

Saturday, January 17th, 2009

This month our journey takes us to South Africa, Slovenia, Chile, some lesser known corners of France (I can’t imagine a month without France!) and Mendoza in Argentina.  We will also see some cool labels, and taste at least one slightly off the map flavor (really tasty though!).  For those of you who love alternative closures, I have to apologize: no bottle caps this month.  If you ordered all reds, you don’t get anything from South Africa, or Slovenia, but you will get a tasty Italian wine, and another from Spain to round things out.  But most importantly, this month we have a group of exceptionally tasty wines all of which deserve far more recognition than they get.  For our sake, let’s hope they don’t get discovered until we have drunk our fill.

To see the details of all of the wines in your current shipment, click here, or follow the Categories link to “Off the Beaten Path January 09″

If you ordered the “All Reds” Selection, click here, or follow the Categories link to “Off the Beaten Path All Reds January 09″

2007 Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc Stellensbosch, South Africa

Saturday, January 17th, 2009

mulderbosch-vineyardsThe first vines in South Africa were planted around 1655, and they were not good.  Simon Van der Stel (who later founded the great South African Wine Estate Constantia) is reported to have complained about their “revolting sourness.”  The arrival of the French Huguenots in the mid 1700’s greatly improved South Africa’s wine lot, and they became a major exporter.  But a series of events beginning with the end of the French Revolution, and lasting through the Boer War at the end of the 19th century, conspired to stifle exports and leave South Africa with a giant excess of wine, not all of good quality.  The next 85 or so years were not a great time for South African wines, yet in the 1980’s, the world, along with many quality minded South African growers and winemakers, began to discover that there was amazing potential, particularly in the Western Cape Province wmulderbosch-07-chenin-blanchich includes Stellenbosch, Paarl and many of the other better-known regions in South Africa.

Chenin Blanc plays a special role in South African winemaking history, and it is not necessarily a good one.  Known as Steen in Afrikaans, this wine used to account for one third of all vineyards in South Africa, and it produced gallons upon gallons of wine that was insipid at best, and often foul.  But the truth is, South Africa is perfectly suited to Chenin Blanc, and all that was needed was lower crop levels and some careful winemaking.

Mulderbosch, founded in 1989, in the Koelenhof area of Stellensbosch is one of the pioneering forces in high-quality Chenin Blanc from South mike-dubrovic-in-the-vineyardsAfrica.  Wine-maker Mike Dubrovic uses prime Chenin vines from cool spots, and ferments the grapes dry.  89% of the grapes are fermented and aged in temperature controlled tanks, while the remaining 11% are fermented and aged in a combination of new Hungarian and American Oak, and second fill French Oak.  The oak serves here to give a richness, and a hint of spice and vanilla, rather than a decidedly oaky flavor.  The last trick in Mike’s hand is that he blends in 8% of his Noble Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc to add just a hint of sweetness that helps to make the fruit stand out more in this wine.

2007 Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc (Steen) is a lovely, bracing, complex wine that is a great accompaniment to a variety of foods, like rice dishes, lemon and herb chicken, shellfish (not raw oysters however), and even freshwater fish such as trout, or fish quenelles.   This wine drinks well now, but will last easily for 5 – 8 years.  Drink now – 2012+

2007 Caravinserail in fine Blanc Côtes du Ventoux, Rhône, France

Saturday, January 17th, 2009

in-fine-labelCôtes du Ventoux is the name for the large and diverse area in the Southeastern corner of the Rhône Valley that ecompasses all of the land affected by Mount Ventoux, by far the tallest and largest geographical feature in the South of France.  Because of the cold air sliding down the sides of the mountain, this area is cooler and sees more rain than neighboring areas of the Rhône and Provence, and has much cooler nights after the still-blisteringly hot days in the middle of the summer.  The area is also sheltered from the Mistral (the cold, persistent wind that blows from the north down the Rhône Valley in the fall, winter ventoux-vineyardsand spring and stunts the growth of everything).  The resulting wines are similar to those in the rest of the Rhône, but with more delicacy and fresher fruit.

Caravinserail is a second project of Raphaël Trouiller, the proprietor of the currently very in vogue, biodynamically farmed, Domaine de Cascavel also in the Côtes du Ventoux.  Raphaël has almost single-handedly made the Côtes du Ventoux a sought-after wine region by making beautiful, hand-crafted wines from old vines, with catchy names (and big price tags).  With Caravinserail, he has taken the same formula, using younger grapes and less respected varieties, and only a little less flash, and come up with something that is also incredibly delightful.  The names of the wines, in fine, mean “to conclude” in Latin, and it’s almost as if he is saying to all of the other winemakers, after his wild success at Domaine de Cascavel, “and to conclude: even using young vines and inferior grape varieties I can make great wine from this region.  What have you been doing?”

in fine Blanc is made from Clairette, Ugni Blanc, Grenache Blanc, and Bourboulenc that is hand harvested from sustainably farmed grapes.  The wine is fermented and aged in traditional concrete tanks (very common in this part of France).  This wine possesses a nearly magical combination of rich and crisp flavors, mixing citrus with stone fruit and tree fruit, and hitting spices, herbs, and even a bit of creaminess along the way.  A great wine for all sorts of white fish, chicken, salad (yes, a salad wine) and hard cheese.  This is a wine to drink now, but it should hold well for a couple of years.  Drink now – 2011

2006 Movia Villa Marija Pinot Grigio Brda, Slovenia

Saturday, January 17th, 2009

vila-marija-labelRight now you’re saying, “off what path?  I drink Pinot Grigio all of the time.”  But when was the last time you had Pinot Grigio (or any wine for that matter) from Slovenia?  The truth is that other than names that often lack a few vowels, and its status as a former communist dictatorship (Yugoslavia) sworn to destroy the capitalist pigs in America and Western Europe, Slovenia is one of the most promising wine countries in the world.  The Brda area (so far the most successful) is identical to the Italian region of Collio in Friuli (in fact, wines grown in part of Collio can be called Slovenian if they are made in Brda and vice versa).   The only thing (besides vowels and lingering vendettas) that holds Slovenia back, is a winemaking style that is very movia-propertyforeign to us in the West, that employs extremely oxidative (oxidative winemaking creates many flavors that we find weird such as nuttiness, volatile acidity or vinegar, and a lack of fruit) winemaking techniques like ageing in amphorae buried under ground.

Movia, founded around 1700, is one of the oldest wineries in the region, and was the first to bottle its wine under its own label, both before and after the fall of the Iron Curtain.  The winery is entirely biodynamic (which means they are followers of Rudolph Steiner, practicing a mixture of organics, astrology and mystical practices to foster a healthier, more balanced earth that is happier to produce grapes for them), and employs some of the traditional oxidative techniques, along with a real penchant for getting their very old vines extremely ripe, and producing very intense wines that are very popular among a certain set of wine geeks, but not to everyone else’s liking despite being unquestionably well-made.  The proprietor (his family has owned the property since 1820) Ales Kristancec started a second label, Vila Marija, to make more modern style wines using the younger vines on the property.  Most importantly, the wines are delicious.

2006 Villa Marija Pinot Grigio is another wine with a great combination of richness and crisp fruit, though the fresh, crisp fruit wins in the end.  This is a great wine for salad (another one!), roast vegetables, white fish and roast chicken (or moderately spiced chicken breast dishes).  It’s also a great aperitif wine.  Drink it now: why would you ever wait to drink a wine that is this tasty.  Drink now-2010.

2006 Chono Syrah Elquí Valley, Chile

Saturday, January 17th, 2009

chono_syrah1The Elquí Valley is the Northernmost quality wine region in Chile.  The dizzying altitude of the vineyards (up to 6,000 chile_elqui_2feet above sea level) provide the cool climate that makes powerful, complex, vibrant reds, and near dessert conditions which further challenge the grapes (this is good!).    The region is also beautiful: a picturesque river valley, high in the Andes.

Chono is a product of the imagination of Alvaro Espinoza, Chiles leading organic winemaker, and his father, Juan Espinoza, also a leading enologist in Chile.  The winery is based in Chile’s Maipo Valley, but sources grapes from organic vineyards all over the country that are ideal for their particular grape variety.  Alvaro has worked all over Chile, but also in Bordeaux at Château Margaux, and in California at Fetzer and Bonterra, where he discovered organic and biodynamic winemaking, and realized that they were perfect for the dry, virtually pest free climate in Chile.  Since returning, he has come to lead chonos-alvaro-espinozaor consult for many of the best wineries in Chile.  Chono is different, because is his own, and the love is very apparent.  The winery is named after the ancient Chono tribe that lived in the area.

100% percent Syrah from organically farmed vineyards in the Elquí Valley, the Chono Syrah is really stunning.  Rich, complex and layered, with loads of blackberry, smoke, and roasted bell pepper (this is that off the map flavor I was talking about, and I really like it), this is both delicious, and really well put together.  Great acids, great tannins, and a long, memorable finish.  Think about this wine for roasted vegetables, wild mushrooms, grilled or smoked meats, and Asian foods that combine a little heat with a little sweetness.  Though this wine will last for a few years, it won’t get any better.  Drink now – 2012.

2006 Château Capion Cuvée 1C Rouge Vin de Pays de l’Herault, Languedoc, France

Saturday, January 17th, 2009

capion-1c-labelChâteau Capion is located in the Languedoc, between the towns of Gignac and Aignan in the Gassac River valley, near the medieval village of Saint Guilhem le Desert.  The wines would qualify for the more prestigious AOC of Coteaux du Languedoc, except that the winery has chosen not to use the permitted grape varieties, and instead use Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet chateau-capionFranc along with Syrah.  The vines face Northwest (to limit direct sun exposure in this very hot region) and are further benefitted by the cooling influence of the nearby forest and the Gassac River.  All of these factors allow them to keep the grapes on the vines for longer and produce more balanced and complex wines.

Though Château Capion dates to the 16th Century, the first record of ownership dates to 1873, and a Monsieur Louis Keittinger who is reported to have built “massive cellars” and erected “multiple outbuildings”.  In 1888 Cardinal Monseigneur du Cabrieres consecrated a Chapel on the property, which is still used by the current owners.  In 1996, the Swiss Buhrer family purchased Château Capion, and spent the next ten years updated the facilities and vineyards with the goal of creating a state of the art winery.  The Buhrers also lovingly restored the impressive château in which they now live.  The farm occupies over 186 acres, of which about 111 acres (45 ha) are planted to grapes and farmed organically, with thoughts towards preserving the natural yeast on the outside of the grapes to use for natural fermentations.  The yields in the vineyards are particularly low, from 1.5 to 3.2 tons per acre.

Another great wine, 2006 Château Capion Cuvée 1C provides a perfect balance between rich fruit, supple oak, spice, and earth.  The wine is made from 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 15% Merlot, with an average vine age of 25 years.  The wine is aged for 14 months in a combination of new, one and two year old French oak barrels.  A wonderfully flexible wine, try this with pork chops, grilled or roasted chicken, sweet potatoes, or blue cheese (actually, any cheese).

2006 Tomero Malbec Uco Valley2006 Tomero Malbec Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina

Saturday, January 17th, 2009

tomerologoThis wine qualifies for the ugliest label award in this month’s shipment (thank goodness it tastes so good).

Tormero Malbec comes from the Finca Los Álamos vineyard at 1200 meters above sea level, in the Uco Valley, about 90 miles east of the city of Mendoza.  Antonio Pulenta began planting the 400 ha vineyard over 30 years ago, and as such, it is one of the oldest in the area.   There is a dramatic shift between daytime and nighttime temperatures (over 60° F in the summer) that ensures that though the grapes get ripe, they will maintain excellent acid balance and a good structure.  In fact, this is a nearly perfect place for wine grapes to grow.

Tomero Wines is the state of the art wine company based around the vineyards developed by Antonio Pulenta while his family still otormero-winerywned Trapiche.  Now, having sold Trapiche, his son Carlos is free to run the family estate with a total commitment to quality.

carlos-pulentaThe Tomero has been a key character in the vineyards in Argentina since 1833. Tomeros controlled the water supply for each district in the province and regulated the channeling of the meltwater from the Andes to make certain that every user receives his fair supply.  The tomero’s main tool was locks on the sluice gates of the irrigation channels that had been built into the vineyards.  By openning the gates for set amounts of time he could make sure to give each vineyard its rightful supply of water.

2006 Tomero Malbec is 100% Malbec that has been hand-harvested in multiple passes through the vineyards (over 18 days in 2006). 20% of the finished wine is aged for eight months in French oak barrels while the remainder stays in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks.  The wine is then blended, bottled, and aged for a further six months before release.   Though this wine mostly hovers on the fruity side of Malbec, it is no wilting flower: the color is an intense purple/magenta, and the nose is heady with baking spice, coffee, plums and blackberries.  The wine has powerful but smooth tannins, and a perfect balance of acidity and rich fruit.  Try this with rare red meat, cheese and root vegetables, but avoid Spicy foods, as the tannins will seem harsh, and multiply the spice.  Drink this wine from now – 2015.

Champagne & Sparkling Wine Society – January 2009

Friday, January 16th, 2009

This month we start with a Blanc de Blanc from the formidable Champagne Grand Cru of Cramant, follow it up with a move to the east and another 100% Chardonnay sparkler from the Jura (this is one of the great unknown treasures of French bubbles) and then switch hemispheres and grapes, for a mostly Pinot Noir Brut Rosé from South Africa.  There’s enough variety, and delicacy, here for the most refined, and most adventurous palates.  Amandla! (Amandla means “cheers” in many of the African languages spoken in South Africa).

To see details from all of the wine from your shipment click here or follow the Champagne & Sparkling Wine Society January 09 link to the right.

NV Bonnaire Grand Cru Blanc de Blanc Brut à Cramant

Friday, January 16th, 2009

bonnaire-b-de-b-labelThough many of the large Champagne producers are based in the Montagne de Reims, a large portion of the legendary Champagnes come from the Côte de Blancs.  Krug’s Clos de Mesnil, Salon from Les Mesnil sur Oger, and Jacques Selosse from Avize.  The region is called the Côte de Blancs because of the predominance of Chardonnay Grapes (about 96% to 3% Pinot Noir bonnaire-blanc-de-blancand 1% Pinot Meunier).  The grapes from the region play a dual role: when they are part of a blend with grapes from other regions, they contribute a freshness, delicacy and finesse to the blend, but when they are on their own, they produce powerful, taught wines that mature into magically creamy, biscuit, nutty showstoppers.  The chalky soil and steep slope have an affinity for Chardonnay like few other places in the world.  Cramant has long been considered one of the greatest Grand Crus in Champagne.

Champagne Bonnaire was founded in 1932 by Jean-Louis Bonnaire’s maternal Grandfather Fernand Bouquemont as Champagne jean-louis-bonnaireBouquemont, and was called Bonnaire-Bouquemont briefly as it transitioned from one side of the family to the other.  Over the subsequent years, the estate has expanded to 22 hectares, 13.5 of which are in Cramant, the rest in the Vallée de la Marne.   Wines are pressed traditionally, and fermented and aged using a combination of tank and oak barrels, where the wines undergo malo-lactic fermentation.

With a nose of ginger, orange peel, lime and biscuits, and a palate that is full of pear, lime, papaya brazil nuts and a mineral lift on the finish, the Grand Cru Blanc de Blanc Brut is a formidable non-vintage Champagne.   It is perfectly suited as an aperitif, but will also compliment flounder and lighter white fish of all sorts, especially in cream sauce, and be a stunning foil for roasted vegetables.  Though this wine is drinking wonderfully now, it will continue to change in a positive way for at least the next five years.  Drink now – 2018.

NV Domaine Hubert Clavelin Brut Comte Cremant de Jura, France

Friday, January 16th, 2009

brut-comte-labelLocated about thirty miles east of the Cote d’Or in Burgundy, Jura is far more famous for Vin Jaune (called such because of the yellow color that comes from seven years of aging in untopped barrels covered with a flor-like yeast).  But there have always been some moderately good sparkling wines from Jura.   So, when Hubert Clavelin and his sons noted that a limestone-rich portion of their vineyards looked remarkably like Champagne, and planted it with Chardonnay grapes, it wasn’t totally unheard of that they decided to make sparkling wine from it.

What was different was that they chose to make a top quality wine.  Domaine Hubert Clavelin et Fils makes nothing but the best .   The grapes are hand-harvested in open baskets, then whole-cluster pressed.  Only the free-run juice is used, with the vin de presse sold to less quality-minded merchants (a significant portion of vin de presse is permitted even in Champagne).  The wine is then aged for 24 months (15 more than the minimum, and 6 more than the minimum for Champagne) on the lees of its secondary fermentation.

The resulting wine is full and rich, with elegant flavors and aromas of toast, baked apples, lemon zest and honey.  The bubbles are elegant and lazy, and this is way better than many of the mediocre Champagnes from big name houses that I try on a regular basis.  Perfect for movie-theatre popcorn, fish, chicken and not a bad bet for mushroom dishes.  This is a wine to drink over the next year or two.  Drink 2009 – 2011.

2006 Graham Beck Brut Rosé Western Cape, South Africa

Friday, January 16th, 2009

brut20rose202006South Africa continues to surprise me, but this wine might be the most pleasant wine surprise I had in all of 2008.  The grapes for these bubbles come from two regions that are especiall cool.  The Pinot Noir in the wine comes from a Graham Beck’s Firgrove Vineyards, near False Bay in Stellensbosch.  There is a cool coastal current here which keeps the air significantly cooler than its none-to-warm surroundings.  The Chardonnay in this wine comes from the vineyards in Robertson with high natural limestone contents.

is a South African serial entrepreneur.  He began with a successful home renovation business called Kangra (still the name of his holding company), and from there ventured into coal mining.   Through the mining company he is considered a great positve force in the development of the South African economy because he pioneered the export and shipment of coal through Richards Bay on the North Coast.  Next, Graham pursued his interest in horses through successful stud operations on three continents.  By the time he turned to wine, Graham had amassed a fortune, and an acumen for running successful businesses.  Graham Beck wines has been formed around the vision of doing everything right, from the best grapes in the best vineyards to the best winery facilities, to protecting the environment and treating his workers well.  A significant portion of the land that Graham owns in the best wine regions in South Africa is set aside as nature and game preserves.  The winery is also beautiful, and filled with beautiful art.

2006 Graham Beck Brut Rosé is made from 80 percent Pinot Noir from the Firgrove Vineyards in Stellensbosch, and 20% Chardonnay from Robertson.  The grapes are pressed together and left to macerate briefly on the skins (thus gaining their color).  After the secondary fermentation, the wine is aged on its lees for a minimum of 16 months before disgorgement. The color is ultra-pale salmon, and the mousse is fine.  The aromas and flavors are of strawberries, cream, and lemon curd with hints of a pleasant yeastiness.  This is a light, fun wine to be enjoyed as an aperitif, or with light, well-salted foods of any type.  And though I don’t recommend sparkling with dessert, ever, this wouldn’t be the worst wine to serve with some fresh fruit sorbet.  This is a wine to drink in its youth: from now until 2011.

The Next Big Thing – January 2009

Friday, January 16th, 2009

Our journey this month takes us first to Valle d’Aosta, an autonomous Italian region nestled into the mountains above Piedmont, Italy that considers itself more French than Italian, for a hand-crafted Chardonnay of amazing depth.  Then, just North to Minervois, for the top wine from an estate that has taken the concept of “hand-made” to new extremes (and new heights). And lastly, in an hemispheric about face, to the mountainous vineyards of Vistalba, Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina for a wine that combines power and elegance with an artistry rarely seen anywhere.  Salud y amor y tiempo para disfrutarlo! (South American toast: “health and love and time to enjoy it”).

To see detailed descriptions of your wines, click here, or follow “The Next Big Thing January ‘09″ link in the column to the right.

2006 Les Crêtes Cuvée Frissoniére Chardonnay Valle d’Aosta, Italy

Friday, January 16th, 2009

chardonnay-frissoniere-07-frontHome to the Italian face of the Matterhorn, Mount Blanc and Mount Rosa, in the Northwestern corner of Italy (surrounded by Piemonte), where the French, Swiss and Italian alps meet, Valle d’Aosta is a remote and beautiful region that has only begun to be recognized for its true vinous potential. The combination of elevation, which allows for longer growing seasons due to cooler temperatures, steep slopes, which provide excellent sun exposure allowing the grapes to get fully ripe despite the cooler temperatures, and the infertile, well drained soil composed of sand and calcareous rocks all work together to provide a nearly perfect spot for high-quality, low-yield grape-growing. This is particularly true of the Dora Baltea Valley in which all of Les Cretes’ vineyards are planted (the rest of the region tends to be cooler). Add to this the French, Italian and German heritage of the people, and the potential for beautiful wines becomes clear. For more on the climate, history and political situation in the region (the latter two topics are fascinating) there is a great, very complete, Wikipedia article on Valle d’Aosta that is well worth your time.

la-cretes-vineyardThe Charrère family emigrated from France to what is now the Aosta Valley in the mid 1700’s. They still live on the original property near Aymaville. However, the family didn’t even grow grapes until 1955, and then began with only two hectares (about 5 acres). By 1989 they had 25 hectares, and built the winery that became . Now run by two generations of Charrères, Constantino and Imelda, along with their daughters Elena and Eleonora, quality has always been the focus at La Crêtes. Low yields (really low), reasoned agriculture, and a hands-on approach that stresses vineyards over winemaking characterize their small production of 19,000 cases spread among ten different wines.

Cuvée Frissoniére Chardonnay comes from the family’s Vigne Champorette Vineyard in their home commune of Amyaville. The vines face both North and South, and have an average age of 15 years. No oak is used in ageing, yet the wine is notably rich and complex. This is a powerful wine, and should be served cool, but definitely not cold, if it’s in the fridge, take the wine out for 30 -50 minutes before serving (or if you’re in a rush, set it in room temp water for 5 minutes). This wine also really shows its stuff with a little air, so decant it, or at least give it a good swirl in the glass. Because of the great acidity and crisp, citrus, apple and mineral characters, think of this as the ideal wine for almost any fish, also for lighter poultry and pork. It also has a perfect mix of rich and snappy to handle those perennially hard vegetables like brussel sprouts, and asparagus, while also performing admirably with a wide variety of cheeses (avoid the soft, stinky ones). While drinking shockingly well now, this wine will continue to develop and improve for five years, and should hold for ten or more. Drink now-2019.

2005 L’Oustal Blanc Maestoso Minervois, Languedoc, France

Friday, January 16th, 2009

old-vines-at-loustal

Minervois, particularly the superior cru of La Livinière, where L’Oustal Blanc is located, has the potential to make amazing wines. Hot and dry, and isolated from any oceanic influence by the cliffs at the foot of the Montagne Noir, with a  dry soil consisting of mostly stones over a limestone subsoil, La Livinière provides an ideal climate for grapes.  Add to this the 100+ year old Carignan and 50+ year old Grenache of L’Oustal Blanc’s vineyards, and something magical could happen.

05-maestoso-bottleL’Oustal Blanc is owned and farmed by Claude Fonquerle, and made with the assistance of the famous Chateauneuf-du-Pape enological consultant Philipe Cambi.  With a goal of encouraging the intergrowth of plants, bugs and microorganisms to keep the soil healthy, the only chemical used is Bordeaux Mixture, and the only machine in the vineyard is a 4-wheel ATV in order to keep from compacting the soil. Grapes for the wines are rigorously sorted three times, first by the pickers, before they are placed in twelve kilogram netted boxes (boxes are small and netted to prevent crushing the grapes and causing oxidation), then again after they are removed from the chiller (they are chilled for 24 hours after picking, again to prevent oxidation), and once more after they are de-stemmed.  This ensures that only the most perfect berries make it to the wine.  In the case of Maestoso, the Grenache is fermented and macerated for 30-60 days in demi-muids (500 liter, upright, old oak barrels) and the Syrah and Carignan are fermented in tank, then aged for 12 months in new French oak barriques (225 liter barrels).   The complete fermentation and malo-lactic fermentation are done in contact with the skins to assist philipe-cambiwith extraction and to prevent oxidation.  The point is, this is seriously hands-on wine making.

75 cases of 2005 Maestoso were imported to the US.  The wine is a deep purple-red color, and has an impressive nose of baking spice, cherry and blackberry liqueurs, along with smoky, grilled meats.  On the palate the wine is rich and powerful, yet without a rough edge.  Most impressively for its size, the wine is incredibly fresh, tasting like nothing so much as fresh un-adulterated fruit.  The finish is long and glorious, and it’s very hard not to drink the bottle in one, short, sitting.  This is a great wine for red meat, particularly game, rare aged steaks, and lamb, but it is also a great wine for well-salted dishes made from wild mushrooms, or for blue cheese.  Whatever you eat with it, make sure it’s got some flavor.  This wine also does nobly with moderately spicy foods (not quite up to Thai, but great for most styles of Barbeque or for Southwestern food).

2006 Vistalba Corte A, Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina

Friday, January 16th, 2009

vistalba-logoValle de Vistalba is a non-recognized sub-region within Lujan de Cujo, which is considered to be the best area in all of Mendoza for Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Rocky alluvial soils provide excellent drainage, and a dramatic diurnal (day to night) temperature shift, allow for the grapes to remain on the vines for extended periods, creating powerful, lush wines sacrificing crucial acidity or making overly alcoholic wines.  Also, because of the mountainous isolation and the ancient-style flood irrigation, Lujan de Cujo has largely escaped phylloxera, and many of the vines are planted on their original rootstocks.

Finca Vistalba, an estate owned by the Pulenta Family (of Trinchero), is made up of mostly Malbec, with some Cabernet carlos-pulentaSauvignon, Merlot and Bonarda, all of which have a minimum age of sixty years old, and all of which are planted on their original rootstocks.  After harvesting in small baskets, the grapes are brought into a state of the art gravity flow winery, where they are sorted and pressed, then fermented in separate lots by vineyard parcel and grape.  The wine is aged in new, medium toast French oak barriques (225 liter barrels).  While the wine is aging, the barrels are constantly tasted, and eventually a hierarchy arises.  The very few barrels that are at the top of the heap become Corte A.   This wine is aged for 18 months, then blended and bottled, and left to rest for 12 months before being released.

1,000 6-bottle cases of this is a sturdy, powerful wine, were made from 90% Malbec and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.  The nose explodes with cassis, black plum, grilled rare beef, black olives, and spicy, cedary oak. The structure is firm and elegant, and reminiscent of great Bordeaux, but the fruit is big and rich and unmistakably from the new world.  There is also a powerful mineral character that gives this wine serious class and a long, delightful finish.  For food pairings, think red meat, particularly grilled beef and roasted Lamb.  This wine will continue develop for another ten years, and drink well through 2025.  For more information about  2006 Vistalba Corte A

SEO Powered by Platinum SEO from Techblissonline