Champagne and Sparkling Wine Society Jan '09

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Wine from the January 2009 Champagne and Sparkling Wine Society Shipment

 

Champagne & Sparkling Wine Society – January 2009

Friday, January 16th, 2009

This month we start with a Blanc de Blanc from the formidable Champagne Grand Cru of Cramant, follow it up with a move to the east and another 100% Chardonnay sparkler from the Jura (this is one of the great unknown treasures of French bubbles) and then switch hemispheres and grapes, for a mostly Pinot Noir Brut Rosé from South Africa.  There’s enough variety, and delicacy, here for the most refined, and most adventurous palates.  Amandla! (Amandla means “cheers” in many of the African languages spoken in South Africa).

To see details from all of the wine from your shipment click here or follow the Champagne & Sparkling Wine Society January 09 link to the right.

NV Bonnaire Grand Cru Blanc de Blanc Brut à Cramant

Friday, January 16th, 2009

bonnaire-b-de-b-labelThough many of the large Champagne producers are based in the Montagne de Reims, a large portion of the legendary Champagnes come from the Côte de Blancs.  Krug’s Clos de Mesnil, Salon from Les Mesnil sur Oger, and Jacques Selosse from Avize.  The region is called the Côte de Blancs because of the predominance of Chardonnay Grapes (about 96% to 3% Pinot Noir bonnaire-blanc-de-blancand 1% Pinot Meunier).  The grapes from the region play a dual role: when they are part of a blend with grapes from other regions, they contribute a freshness, delicacy and finesse to the blend, but when they are on their own, they produce powerful, taught wines that mature into magically creamy, biscuit, nutty showstoppers.  The chalky soil and steep slope have an affinity for Chardonnay like few other places in the world.  Cramant has long been considered one of the greatest Grand Crus in Champagne.

Champagne Bonnaire was founded in 1932 by Jean-Louis Bonnaire’s maternal Grandfather Fernand Bouquemont as Champagne jean-louis-bonnaireBouquemont, and was called Bonnaire-Bouquemont briefly as it transitioned from one side of the family to the other.  Over the subsequent years, the estate has expanded to 22 hectares, 13.5 of which are in Cramant, the rest in the Vallée de la Marne.   Wines are pressed traditionally, and fermented and aged using a combination of tank and oak barrels, where the wines undergo malo-lactic fermentation.

With a nose of ginger, orange peel, lime and biscuits, and a palate that is full of pear, lime, papaya brazil nuts and a mineral lift on the finish, the Grand Cru Blanc de Blanc Brut is a formidable non-vintage Champagne.   It is perfectly suited as an aperitif, but will also compliment flounder and lighter white fish of all sorts, especially in cream sauce, and be a stunning foil for roasted vegetables.  Though this wine is drinking wonderfully now, it will continue to change in a positive way for at least the next five years.  Drink now – 2018.

NV Domaine Hubert Clavelin Brut Comte Cremant de Jura, France

Friday, January 16th, 2009

brut-comte-labelLocated about thirty miles east of the Cote d’Or in Burgundy, Jura is far more famous for Vin Jaune (called such because of the yellow color that comes from seven years of aging in untopped barrels covered with a flor-like yeast).  But there have always been some moderately good sparkling wines from Jura.   So, when Hubert Clavelin and his sons noted that a limestone-rich portion of their vineyards looked remarkably like Champagne, and planted it with Chardonnay grapes, it wasn’t totally unheard of that they decided to make sparkling wine from it.

What was different was that they chose to make a top quality wine.  Domaine Hubert Clavelin et Fils makes nothing but the best .   The grapes are hand-harvested in open baskets, then whole-cluster pressed.  Only the free-run juice is used, with the vin de presse sold to less quality-minded merchants (a significant portion of vin de presse is permitted even in Champagne).  The wine is then aged for 24 months (15 more than the minimum, and 6 more than the minimum for Champagne) on the lees of its secondary fermentation.

The resulting wine is full and rich, with elegant flavors and aromas of toast, baked apples, lemon zest and honey.  The bubbles are elegant and lazy, and this is way better than many of the mediocre Champagnes from big name houses that I try on a regular basis.  Perfect for movie-theatre popcorn, fish, chicken and not a bad bet for mushroom dishes.  This is a wine to drink over the next year or two.  Drink 2009 – 2011.

2006 Graham Beck Brut Rosé Western Cape, South Africa

Friday, January 16th, 2009

brut20rose202006South Africa continues to surprise me, but this wine might be the most pleasant wine surprise I had in all of 2008.  The grapes for these bubbles come from two regions that are especiall cool.  The Pinot Noir in the wine comes from a Graham Beck’s Firgrove Vineyards, near False Bay in Stellensbosch.  There is a cool coastal current here which keeps the air significantly cooler than its none-to-warm surroundings.  The Chardonnay in this wine comes from the vineyards in Robertson with high natural limestone contents.

is a South African serial entrepreneur.  He began with a successful home renovation business called Kangra (still the name of his holding company), and from there ventured into coal mining.   Through the mining company he is considered a great positve force in the development of the South African economy because he pioneered the export and shipment of coal through Richards Bay on the North Coast.  Next, Graham pursued his interest in horses through successful stud operations on three continents.  By the time he turned to wine, Graham had amassed a fortune, and an acumen for running successful businesses.  Graham Beck wines has been formed around the vision of doing everything right, from the best grapes in the best vineyards to the best winery facilities, to protecting the environment and treating his workers well.  A significant portion of the land that Graham owns in the best wine regions in South Africa is set aside as nature and game preserves.  The winery is also beautiful, and filled with beautiful art.

2006 Graham Beck Brut Rosé is made from 80 percent Pinot Noir from the Firgrove Vineyards in Stellensbosch, and 20% Chardonnay from Robertson.  The grapes are pressed together and left to macerate briefly on the skins (thus gaining their color).  After the secondary fermentation, the wine is aged on its lees for a minimum of 16 months before disgorgement. The color is ultra-pale salmon, and the mousse is fine.  The aromas and flavors are of strawberries, cream, and lemon curd with hints of a pleasant yeastiness.  This is a light, fun wine to be enjoyed as an aperitif, or with light, well-salted foods of any type.  And though I don’t recommend sparkling with dessert, ever, this wouldn’t be the worst wine to serve with some fresh fruit sorbet.  This is a wine to drink in its youth: from now until 2011.

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