Off the Beaten Path Jan '09

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Wines from the January 2009 Extraordinary Wines from Off the Beaten Path Shipment

 

Wines from Off the Beaten Path – January 09

Saturday, January 17th, 2009

This month our journey takes us to South Africa, Slovenia, Chile, some lesser known corners of France (I can’t imagine a month without France!) and Mendoza in Argentina.  We will also see some cool labels, and taste at least one slightly off the map flavor (really tasty though!).  For those of you who love alternative closures, I have to apologize: no bottle caps this month.  If you ordered all reds, you don’t get anything from South Africa, or Slovenia, but you will get a tasty Italian wine, and another from Spain to round things out.  But most importantly, this month we have a group of exceptionally tasty wines all of which deserve far more recognition than they get.  For our sake, let’s hope they don’t get discovered until we have drunk our fill.

To see the details of all of the wines in your current shipment, click here, or follow the Categories link to “Off the Beaten Path January 09″

If you ordered the “All Reds” Selection, click here, or follow the Categories link to “Off the Beaten Path All Reds January 09″

2007 Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc Stellensbosch, South Africa

Saturday, January 17th, 2009

mulderbosch-vineyardsThe first vines in South Africa were planted around 1655, and they were not good.  Simon Van der Stel (who later founded the great South African Wine Estate Constantia) is reported to have complained about their “revolting sourness.”  The arrival of the French Huguenots in the mid 1700’s greatly improved South Africa’s wine lot, and they became a major exporter.  But a series of events beginning with the end of the French Revolution, and lasting through the Boer War at the end of the 19th century, conspired to stifle exports and leave South Africa with a giant excess of wine, not all of good quality.  The next 85 or so years were not a great time for South African wines, yet in the 1980’s, the world, along with many quality minded South African growers and winemakers, began to discover that there was amazing potential, particularly in the Western Cape Province wmulderbosch-07-chenin-blanchich includes Stellenbosch, Paarl and many of the other better-known regions in South Africa.

Chenin Blanc plays a special role in South African winemaking history, and it is not necessarily a good one.  Known as Steen in Afrikaans, this wine used to account for one third of all vineyards in South Africa, and it produced gallons upon gallons of wine that was insipid at best, and often foul.  But the truth is, South Africa is perfectly suited to Chenin Blanc, and all that was needed was lower crop levels and some careful winemaking.

Mulderbosch, founded in 1989, in the Koelenhof area of Stellensbosch is one of the pioneering forces in high-quality Chenin Blanc from South mike-dubrovic-in-the-vineyardsAfrica.  Wine-maker Mike Dubrovic uses prime Chenin vines from cool spots, and ferments the grapes dry.  89% of the grapes are fermented and aged in temperature controlled tanks, while the remaining 11% are fermented and aged in a combination of new Hungarian and American Oak, and second fill French Oak.  The oak serves here to give a richness, and a hint of spice and vanilla, rather than a decidedly oaky flavor.  The last trick in Mike’s hand is that he blends in 8% of his Noble Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc to add just a hint of sweetness that helps to make the fruit stand out more in this wine.

2007 Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc (Steen) is a lovely, bracing, complex wine that is a great accompaniment to a variety of foods, like rice dishes, lemon and herb chicken, shellfish (not raw oysters however), and even freshwater fish such as trout, or fish quenelles.   This wine drinks well now, but will last easily for 5 – 8 years.  Drink now – 2012+

2007 Caravinserail in fine Blanc Côtes du Ventoux, Rhône, France

Saturday, January 17th, 2009

in-fine-labelCôtes du Ventoux is the name for the large and diverse area in the Southeastern corner of the Rhône Valley that ecompasses all of the land affected by Mount Ventoux, by far the tallest and largest geographical feature in the South of France.  Because of the cold air sliding down the sides of the mountain, this area is cooler and sees more rain than neighboring areas of the Rhône and Provence, and has much cooler nights after the still-blisteringly hot days in the middle of the summer.  The area is also sheltered from the Mistral (the cold, persistent wind that blows from the north down the Rhône Valley in the fall, winter ventoux-vineyardsand spring and stunts the growth of everything).  The resulting wines are similar to those in the rest of the Rhône, but with more delicacy and fresher fruit.

Caravinserail is a second project of Raphaël Trouiller, the proprietor of the currently very in vogue, biodynamically farmed, Domaine de Cascavel also in the Côtes du Ventoux.  Raphaël has almost single-handedly made the Côtes du Ventoux a sought-after wine region by making beautiful, hand-crafted wines from old vines, with catchy names (and big price tags).  With Caravinserail, he has taken the same formula, using younger grapes and less respected varieties, and only a little less flash, and come up with something that is also incredibly delightful.  The names of the wines, in fine, mean “to conclude” in Latin, and it’s almost as if he is saying to all of the other winemakers, after his wild success at Domaine de Cascavel, “and to conclude: even using young vines and inferior grape varieties I can make great wine from this region.  What have you been doing?”

in fine Blanc is made from Clairette, Ugni Blanc, Grenache Blanc, and Bourboulenc that is hand harvested from sustainably farmed grapes.  The wine is fermented and aged in traditional concrete tanks (very common in this part of France).  This wine possesses a nearly magical combination of rich and crisp flavors, mixing citrus with stone fruit and tree fruit, and hitting spices, herbs, and even a bit of creaminess along the way.  A great wine for all sorts of white fish, chicken, salad (yes, a salad wine) and hard cheese.  This is a wine to drink now, but it should hold well for a couple of years.  Drink now – 2011

2006 Movia Villa Marija Pinot Grigio Brda, Slovenia

Saturday, January 17th, 2009

vila-marija-labelRight now you’re saying, “off what path?  I drink Pinot Grigio all of the time.”  But when was the last time you had Pinot Grigio (or any wine for that matter) from Slovenia?  The truth is that other than names that often lack a few vowels, and its status as a former communist dictatorship (Yugoslavia) sworn to destroy the capitalist pigs in America and Western Europe, Slovenia is one of the most promising wine countries in the world.  The Brda area (so far the most successful) is identical to the Italian region of Collio in Friuli (in fact, wines grown in part of Collio can be called Slovenian if they are made in Brda and vice versa).   The only thing (besides vowels and lingering vendettas) that holds Slovenia back, is a winemaking style that is very movia-propertyforeign to us in the West, that employs extremely oxidative (oxidative winemaking creates many flavors that we find weird such as nuttiness, volatile acidity or vinegar, and a lack of fruit) winemaking techniques like ageing in amphorae buried under ground.

Movia, founded around 1700, is one of the oldest wineries in the region, and was the first to bottle its wine under its own label, both before and after the fall of the Iron Curtain.  The winery is entirely biodynamic (which means they are followers of Rudolph Steiner, practicing a mixture of organics, astrology and mystical practices to foster a healthier, more balanced earth that is happier to produce grapes for them), and employs some of the traditional oxidative techniques, along with a real penchant for getting their very old vines extremely ripe, and producing very intense wines that are very popular among a certain set of wine geeks, but not to everyone else’s liking despite being unquestionably well-made.  The proprietor (his family has owned the property since 1820) Ales Kristancec started a second label, Vila Marija, to make more modern style wines using the younger vines on the property.  Most importantly, the wines are delicious.

2006 Villa Marija Pinot Grigio is another wine with a great combination of richness and crisp fruit, though the fresh, crisp fruit wins in the end.  This is a great wine for salad (another one!), roast vegetables, white fish and roast chicken (or moderately spiced chicken breast dishes).  It’s also a great aperitif wine.  Drink it now: why would you ever wait to drink a wine that is this tasty.  Drink now-2010.

2006 Chono Syrah Elquí Valley, Chile

Saturday, January 17th, 2009

chono_syrah1The Elquí Valley is the Northernmost quality wine region in Chile.  The dizzying altitude of the vineyards (up to 6,000 chile_elqui_2feet above sea level) provide the cool climate that makes powerful, complex, vibrant reds, and near dessert conditions which further challenge the grapes (this is good!).    The region is also beautiful: a picturesque river valley, high in the Andes.

Chono is a product of the imagination of Alvaro Espinoza, Chiles leading organic winemaker, and his father, Juan Espinoza, also a leading enologist in Chile.  The winery is based in Chile’s Maipo Valley, but sources grapes from organic vineyards all over the country that are ideal for their particular grape variety.  Alvaro has worked all over Chile, but also in Bordeaux at Château Margaux, and in California at Fetzer and Bonterra, where he discovered organic and biodynamic winemaking, and realized that they were perfect for the dry, virtually pest free climate in Chile.  Since returning, he has come to lead chonos-alvaro-espinozaor consult for many of the best wineries in Chile.  Chono is different, because is his own, and the love is very apparent.  The winery is named after the ancient Chono tribe that lived in the area.

100% percent Syrah from organically farmed vineyards in the Elquí Valley, the Chono Syrah is really stunning.  Rich, complex and layered, with loads of blackberry, smoke, and roasted bell pepper (this is that off the map flavor I was talking about, and I really like it), this is both delicious, and really well put together.  Great acids, great tannins, and a long, memorable finish.  Think about this wine for roasted vegetables, wild mushrooms, grilled or smoked meats, and Asian foods that combine a little heat with a little sweetness.  Though this wine will last for a few years, it won’t get any better.  Drink now – 2012.

2006 Château Capion Cuvée 1C Rouge Vin de Pays de l’Herault, Languedoc, France

Saturday, January 17th, 2009

capion-1c-labelChâteau Capion is located in the Languedoc, between the towns of Gignac and Aignan in the Gassac River valley, near the medieval village of Saint Guilhem le Desert.  The wines would qualify for the more prestigious AOC of Coteaux du Languedoc, except that the winery has chosen not to use the permitted grape varieties, and instead use Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet chateau-capionFranc along with Syrah.  The vines face Northwest (to limit direct sun exposure in this very hot region) and are further benefitted by the cooling influence of the nearby forest and the Gassac River.  All of these factors allow them to keep the grapes on the vines for longer and produce more balanced and complex wines.

Though Château Capion dates to the 16th Century, the first record of ownership dates to 1873, and a Monsieur Louis Keittinger who is reported to have built “massive cellars” and erected “multiple outbuildings”.  In 1888 Cardinal Monseigneur du Cabrieres consecrated a Chapel on the property, which is still used by the current owners.  In 1996, the Swiss Buhrer family purchased Château Capion, and spent the next ten years updated the facilities and vineyards with the goal of creating a state of the art winery.  The Buhrers also lovingly restored the impressive château in which they now live.  The farm occupies over 186 acres, of which about 111 acres (45 ha) are planted to grapes and farmed organically, with thoughts towards preserving the natural yeast on the outside of the grapes to use for natural fermentations.  The yields in the vineyards are particularly low, from 1.5 to 3.2 tons per acre.

Another great wine, 2006 Château Capion Cuvée 1C provides a perfect balance between rich fruit, supple oak, spice, and earth.  The wine is made from 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 15% Merlot, with an average vine age of 25 years.  The wine is aged for 14 months in a combination of new, one and two year old French oak barrels.  A wonderfully flexible wine, try this with pork chops, grilled or roasted chicken, sweet potatoes, or blue cheese (actually, any cheese).

2006 Tomero Malbec Uco Valley2006 Tomero Malbec Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina

Saturday, January 17th, 2009

tomerologoThis wine qualifies for the ugliest label award in this month’s shipment (thank goodness it tastes so good).

Tormero Malbec comes from the Finca Los Álamos vineyard at 1200 meters above sea level, in the Uco Valley, about 90 miles east of the city of Mendoza.  Antonio Pulenta began planting the 400 ha vineyard over 30 years ago, and as such, it is one of the oldest in the area.   There is a dramatic shift between daytime and nighttime temperatures (over 60° F in the summer) that ensures that though the grapes get ripe, they will maintain excellent acid balance and a good structure.  In fact, this is a nearly perfect place for wine grapes to grow.

Tomero Wines is the state of the art wine company based around the vineyards developed by Antonio Pulenta while his family still otormero-winerywned Trapiche.  Now, having sold Trapiche, his son Carlos is free to run the family estate with a total commitment to quality.

carlos-pulentaThe Tomero has been a key character in the vineyards in Argentina since 1833. Tomeros controlled the water supply for each district in the province and regulated the channeling of the meltwater from the Andes to make certain that every user receives his fair supply.  The tomero’s main tool was locks on the sluice gates of the irrigation channels that had been built into the vineyards.  By openning the gates for set amounts of time he could make sure to give each vineyard its rightful supply of water.

2006 Tomero Malbec is 100% Malbec that has been hand-harvested in multiple passes through the vineyards (over 18 days in 2006). 20% of the finished wine is aged for eight months in French oak barrels while the remainder stays in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks.  The wine is then blended, bottled, and aged for a further six months before release.   Though this wine mostly hovers on the fruity side of Malbec, it is no wilting flower: the color is an intense purple/magenta, and the nose is heady with baking spice, coffee, plums and blackberries.  The wine has powerful but smooth tannins, and a perfect balance of acidity and rich fruit.  Try this with rare red meat, cheese and root vegetables, but avoid Spicy foods, as the tannins will seem harsh, and multiply the spice.  Drink this wine from now – 2015.

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