The first vines in South Africa were planted around 1655, and they were not good. Simon Van der Stel (who later founded the great South African Wine Estate Constantia) is reported to have complained about their “revolting sourness.” The arrival of the French Huguenots in the mid 1700’s greatly improved South Africa’s wine lot, and they became a major exporter. But a series of events beginning with the end of the French Revolution, and lasting through the Boer War at the end of the 19th century, conspired to stifle exports and leave South Africa with a giant excess of wine, not all of good quality. The next 85 or so years were not a great time for South African wines, yet in the 1980’s, the world, along with many quality minded South African growers and winemakers, began to discover that there was amazing potential, particularly in the Western Cape Province w
hich includes Stellenbosch, Paarl and many of the other better-known regions in South Africa.
Chenin Blanc plays a special role in South African winemaking history, and it is not necessarily a good one. Known as Steen in Afrikaans, this wine used to account for one third of all vineyards in South Africa, and it produced gallons upon gallons of wine that was insipid at best, and often foul. But the truth is, South Africa is perfectly suited to Chenin Blanc, and all that was needed was lower crop levels and some careful winemaking.
Mulderbosch, founded in 1989, in the Koelenhof area of Stellensbosch is one of the pioneering forces in high-quality Chenin Blanc from South
Africa. Wine-maker Mike Dubrovic uses prime Chenin vines from cool spots, and ferments the grapes dry. 89% of the grapes are fermented and aged in temperature controlled tanks, while the remaining 11% are fermented and aged in a combination of new Hungarian and American Oak, and second fill French Oak. The oak serves here to give a richness, and a hint of spice and vanilla, rather than a decidedly oaky flavor. The last trick in Mike’s hand is that he blends in 8% of his Noble Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc to add just a hint of sweetness that helps to make the fruit stand out more in this wine.
2007 Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc (Steen) is a lovely, bracing, complex wine that is a great accompaniment to a variety of foods, like rice dishes, lemon and herb chicken, shellfish (not raw oysters however), and even freshwater fish such as trout, or fish quenelles. This wine drinks well now, but will last easily for 5 – 8 years. Drink now – 2012+