Off the Beaten Path All Red Jan '09

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All Red Selections from the January 2009 Extraordinary Wines from Off the Beaten Path Shipment

 

2006 Damilano Nebbiolo d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy

Sunday, January 18th, 2009

damilano-nebbiolo-labelThe region for Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata, Italy’s most common controlled appellation) is contiguous to the much more prestigious Barolo DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Gaurantita, Italy’s nod to the most famous, and tightly regulated, appellations). The soil and aspect are similar, but perhaps the wines are not quite as fine.  Yet in the hands of an outstanding producer, a Nebbiolo d’Alba can often rival most Barolos: this is just such a case.  The grapes damilanocome from the villages of Monforte d’Alba and Diano d’Alba at elevations of about 1200 ft above sea level.  The vineyards have a near-perfect south-southwest exposure, and the soil is made of calcareous clay, similar to that of most of Barolo.

Damilano was founded in the late 1800’s by Giuseppe Borgogno, grandfather to the current owners, Guido, Margherita, Paolo and Mario Damilano.  They have property in some of the most famous vineyards in Barolo, but also make excellent wines from property in neighboring Alba, often for a quarter of the price of their Barolos.  Giampero Romano, one of the most famous viticultural experts in Italy, manages all of their vineyards (both leased and owned) and garners consistently excellent results.  The wines are made by Giuseppe Caviola, another gifted technician, who is just beginning to receive the critical acclaim he deserves.

Just under 12,000 cases of  the 2006 Damilano Nebbiolo d’Alba were produced.  The wine is harvested, then allowed to sit on the skins for 10 days before undergoing a temperature controlled, cool fermentation (to harness the fruit characters).  The wine is then transferred to French oak barriques (225 L barrels) that are about 50% new, 50% one and two years old, to age for 16 months.  The resulting wine has a firm, velvety structure, a snap of crisp fruit acidity, and lots of lovely violet and black fruit aromas, along with hints of more exotic spice and leather.  Try this wine with with poultry, pork, red meat, Copper or Yukon River Salmon, or with hearty first courses such as roasted or grilled vegetables and hard, salty, cheeses.  Drink now-2017.

2006 El Sequé Vinedos de El Sequé Alicanté, Spain

Sunday, January 18th, 2009

old-vinedos-de-el-seque-labelAlicante has a storied wine history, but in the last 100 years hasn’t been a major force in Spanish wines.  However, as interest in its native variety Monastrell (called Mouvedre or Estrangle Chien in France) develops, people are rediscovering the stunning wines from Alicanté.  Monastrell is one of the few red grapes that really likes hot weather, in alicante-mapfact needs it to ripen (thus the name Estrangle Chien, the dog strangler, in France), and Alicanté, with its hot Mediterranean climate and extra sunlight reflected from the sea delivers heat in abundance.  Alicanté also has very poor soil, high in limestone and poor in clay and fertile humus, that stresses grape vines and provides excellent drainage.  For an added treat, the region is full of really old vines.

One of my favorite ways to find outstanding wines that are “off the beaten path” is to follow gifted winemakers from well-known regions to new projects in lesser-known areas.  They usually go because they are passionate about the potential of the area, and put great personal stake in proving themselves right.  The result for consumers is wines that are made as carefully as the winemaker’s more famous wines at a fraction of the price.  El Sequé is just such a project.  Juan Carlos Lopez, the visionary winemaker behind the Artadi Riojas, purchased forty acres of land in Alicanté juan-carlos-lopezin 1999, and has set out to prove that it is a world-class wine region.   Based on his results so far, I agree.

The 2006 Vinedos el Sequé is made from mostly Monastrell, with hints of Syrah and Cabernet to add complexity.  The wine is made in a very ripe, extracted style, and is a heady dark purple color.  Aromas of black plums, smoke, leather, spice and dried herbs compliment rich, fruit-driven flavors, in this powerful wine that, despite its power, is silken in texture.  This is a great wine for Barbeque, Korean Bulgogi, and very reduced sauces.  This is also a wine that is just fun to drink, so don’t save it for a special occasion, drink it!  Drink now – 2013.

2006 Caravinserail in fine Rouge Côtes du Ventoux, Rhône, France

Sunday, January 18th, 2009

in-fine-rouge-labelCôtes du Ventoux is the name for the large and diverse area in the Southeastern corner of the Rhône Valley that ecompasses all of the land affected by Mount Ventoux, by far the tallest and largest geographical feature in the South of France.  Because of the cold air sliding down the sides of the mountain, this area is cooler and sees more rain than neighboring areas of the Rhône and Provence, and has much cooler nights after the still-blisteringly hot days in the middle of the summer.  The area is also sheltered from the Mistral (the cold, persistent wind that blows from the north down the Rhône Valley in the fall, winter ventoux-vineyardsand spring and stunts the growth of everything).  The resulting wines are similar to those in the rest of the Rhône, but with more delicacy and fresher fruit.

Caravinserail is a second project of Raphaël Trouiller, the proprietor of the currently very in vogue, biodynamically farmed, Domaine de Cascavel also in the Côtes du Ventoux.  Raphaël has almost single-handedly made the Côtes du Ventoux a sought-after wine region by making beautiful, hand-crafted wines from old vines, with catchy names (and big price tags).  With Caravinserail, he has taken the same formula, using younger grapes and less respected varieties, and only a little less flash, and come up with something that is also incredibly delightful.  The names of the wines, in fine, mean “to conclude” in Latin, and it’s almost as if he is saying to all of the other winemakers, after his wild success at Domaine de Cascavel, “and to conclude: even using young vines and inferior grape varieties I can make great wine from this region.  What have you been doing?”

in fine rouge is made from 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah from younger vines on Trouiller’s Domaine de Cascavel estate.  The grapes are farmed entirely biodynically.  in fine is aged in traditional concrete tanks rather than oak, and bottled 8 months after fermentation is complete.  The wine is full of fresh red fruit, peppery spice and dried herb characters.  This is a medium bodied red with lots of spunky character that is wonderful with fresh (read semi-soft) cheeses and lighter meats like pork, white fish, and charcuterie.  Though it is not meant for aging, this wine won’t die early either.  Drink now – 2012.

2006 Chono Syrah Elquí Valley, Chile

Saturday, January 17th, 2009

chono_syrah1The Elquí Valley is the Northernmost quality wine region in Chile.  The dizzying altitude of the vineyards (up to 6,000 chile_elqui_2feet above sea level) provide the cool climate that makes powerful, complex, vibrant reds, and near dessert conditions which further challenge the grapes (this is good!).    The region is also beautiful: a picturesque river valley, high in the Andes.

Chono is a product of the imagination of Alvaro Espinoza, Chiles leading organic winemaker, and his father, Juan Espinoza, also a leading enologist in Chile.  The winery is based in Chile’s Maipo Valley, but sources grapes from organic vineyards all over the country that are ideal for their particular grape variety.  Alvaro has worked all over Chile, but also in Bordeaux at Château Margaux, and in California at Fetzer and Bonterra, where he discovered organic and biodynamic winemaking, and realized that they were perfect for the dry, virtually pest free climate in Chile.  Since returning, he has come to lead chonos-alvaro-espinozaor consult for many of the best wineries in Chile.  Chono is different, because is his own, and the love is very apparent.  The winery is named after the ancient Chono tribe that lived in the area.

100% percent Syrah from organically farmed vineyards in the Elquí Valley, the Chono Syrah is really stunning.  Rich, complex and layered, with loads of blackberry, smoke, and roasted bell pepper (this is that off the map flavor I was talking about, and I really like it), this is both delicious, and really well put together.  Great acids, great tannins, and a long, memorable finish.  Think about this wine for roasted vegetables, wild mushrooms, grilled or smoked meats, and Asian foods that combine a little heat with a little sweetness.  Though this wine will last for a few years, it won’t get any better.  Drink now – 2012.

2006 Château Capion Cuvée 1C Rouge Vin de Pays de l’Herault, Languedoc, France

Saturday, January 17th, 2009

capion-1c-labelChâteau Capion is located in the Languedoc, between the towns of Gignac and Aignan in the Gassac River valley, near the medieval village of Saint Guilhem le Desert.  The wines would qualify for the more prestigious AOC of Coteaux du Languedoc, except that the winery has chosen not to use the permitted grape varieties, and instead use Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet chateau-capionFranc along with Syrah.  The vines face Northwest (to limit direct sun exposure in this very hot region) and are further benefitted by the cooling influence of the nearby forest and the Gassac River.  All of these factors allow them to keep the grapes on the vines for longer and produce more balanced and complex wines.

Though Château Capion dates to the 16th Century, the first record of ownership dates to 1873, and a Monsieur Louis Keittinger who is reported to have built “massive cellars” and erected “multiple outbuildings”.  In 1888 Cardinal Monseigneur du Cabrieres consecrated a Chapel on the property, which is still used by the current owners.  In 1996, the Swiss Buhrer family purchased Château Capion, and spent the next ten years updated the facilities and vineyards with the goal of creating a state of the art winery.  The Buhrers also lovingly restored the impressive château in which they now live.  The farm occupies over 186 acres, of which about 111 acres (45 ha) are planted to grapes and farmed organically, with thoughts towards preserving the natural yeast on the outside of the grapes to use for natural fermentations.  The yields in the vineyards are particularly low, from 1.5 to 3.2 tons per acre.

Another great wine, 2006 Château Capion Cuvée 1C provides a perfect balance between rich fruit, supple oak, spice, and earth.  The wine is made from 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 15% Merlot, with an average vine age of 25 years.  The wine is aged for 14 months in a combination of new, one and two year old French oak barrels.  A wonderfully flexible wine, try this with pork chops, grilled or roasted chicken, sweet potatoes, or blue cheese (actually, any cheese).

2006 Tomero Malbec Uco Valley2006 Tomero Malbec Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina

Saturday, January 17th, 2009

tomerologoThis wine qualifies for the ugliest label award in this month’s shipment (thank goodness it tastes so good).

Tormero Malbec comes from the Finca Los Álamos vineyard at 1200 meters above sea level, in the Uco Valley, about 90 miles east of the city of Mendoza.  Antonio Pulenta began planting the 400 ha vineyard over 30 years ago, and as such, it is one of the oldest in the area.   There is a dramatic shift between daytime and nighttime temperatures (over 60° F in the summer) that ensures that though the grapes get ripe, they will maintain excellent acid balance and a good structure.  In fact, this is a nearly perfect place for wine grapes to grow.

Tomero Wines is the state of the art wine company based around the vineyards developed by Antonio Pulenta while his family still otormero-winerywned Trapiche.  Now, having sold Trapiche, his son Carlos is free to run the family estate with a total commitment to quality.

carlos-pulentaThe Tomero has been a key character in the vineyards in Argentina since 1833. Tomeros controlled the water supply for each district in the province and regulated the channeling of the meltwater from the Andes to make certain that every user receives his fair supply.  The tomero’s main tool was locks on the sluice gates of the irrigation channels that had been built into the vineyards.  By openning the gates for set amounts of time he could make sure to give each vineyard its rightful supply of water.

2006 Tomero Malbec is 100% Malbec that has been hand-harvested in multiple passes through the vineyards (over 18 days in 2006). 20% of the finished wine is aged for eight months in French oak barrels while the remainder stays in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks.  The wine is then blended, bottled, and aged for a further six months before release.   Though this wine mostly hovers on the fruity side of Malbec, it is no wilting flower: the color is an intense purple/magenta, and the nose is heady with baking spice, coffee, plums and blackberries.  The wine has powerful but smooth tannins, and a perfect balance of acidity and rich fruit.  Try this with rare red meat, cheese and root vegetables, but avoid Spicy foods, as the tannins will seem harsh, and multiply the spice.  Drink this wine from now – 2015.

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