July '09
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All of the wines shipped in the July 2009 Clubs
Monday, July 20th, 2009
We’ve got some great wines for you this month. A beautiful Blanc de Blancs from Passy-sur-Marne, a vintage sparkler from California that is probably my favorite non-Champagne sparkler in the world, and certainly the best in the United States, and a delightful Alpine sparkler from Savoie.
There is one major change this month, which I ought to let you in on. The first is that I have gone back to including wine notes with each of the shipments. I found beautiful 100% post-consumer recycled paper, and I have been feeling like not having the notes in your shipment takes away some of the value. But don’t let the notes keep you from going to the website: there are pictures and links to more information and maps for each of the selections, a plethora of good stuff that you don’t want to miss. There is also an opportunity to comment on the wines and share your thoughts (though no one has done this yet. Your invitation code to register and leave comments on the site is “member01″.
Also, we have a very special tasting at Cellar46 on August 1st. I will be leading a tasting of the exceptional Burgundies from Lucien Le Moine. For more information, click here. reservations are required, but it’s well worth it: the wines are stunning!
To see the selections for this month click here
I hope you enjoy the wines.
Thank you,
Jake
Posted in Champagne and Sparkling Wine Society - July '09 | No Responses »
Monday, July 20th, 2009
Once again, we have a great set of wines for you. The emphasis this month is on excitement of flavors: there are no shrinking flowers here. We hang out with our old friends from Spain, France and Argentina, but we’ve got grapes and regions that aren’t all that common. If you get all reds, you’ll also see a tasty Italian number.
There is one major change this month, which I ought to let you in on. The first is that I have gone back to including wine notes with each of the shipments. I found beautiful 100% post-consumer recycled paper, and I have been feeling like not having the notes in your shipment takes away some of the value. But don’t let the notes keep you from going to the website: there are pictures and links to more information and maps for each of the selections, a plethora of good stuff that you don’t want to miss. There is also an opportunity to comment on the wines and share your thoughts (though no one has done this yet. Your invitation code to register and leave comments on the site is “member01″.
Also, we have a very special tasting at Cellar46 on August 1st. I will be leading a tasting of the exceptional Burgundies from Lucien Le Moine. For more information, click here reservations are required, but it’s well worth it: the wines are stunning!
To see the selections for this month click here
If you have all red, click here
I hope you enjoy the wines.
Thank you,
Jake
Posted in Off the Beaten Path - July -09, Off the Beaten Path All Red - July '09 | No Responses »
Monday, July 20th, 2009
We have a stunning set of wines for you this month. And they’re from all over. California, France and Spain. If you have all red, no California, but you’ll get a treat from Italy instead. The wines aren’t subtle this month, but they sure are tasty.
There is one major changes this month, which I ought to let you in on. The first is that I have gone back to including wine notes with each of the shipments. I found beautiful 100% post-consumer recycled paper, and I have been feeling like not having the notes in your shipment takes away some of the value. But don’t let the notes keep you from going to the website: there are pictures and links to more information and maps for each of the selections, a plethora of good stuff that you don’t want to miss. There is also an opportunity to comment on the wines and share your thoughts (though no one has done this yet. Your invitation code to register and leave comments on the site is “member01″.
Also, we have a very special tasting at Cellar46 on August 1st. I will be leading a tasting of the exceptional Burgundies from Lucien Le Moine. For more information, click here. reservations are required, but it’s well worth it: the wines are stunning!
To see the selections for this month click here
If you have all red, click here
I hope you enjoy the wines.
Thank you,
Jake
Posted in The Next Big Thing - July '09, The Next Big Thing All Red - July '09 | No Responses »
Monday, July 20th, 2009
Savoie, located on the French side of the Swiss border, and nestled in the Alps, is nearly as large as Bordeaux, yet produces only one-fiftieth as much wine. The majority of wine here is made from the Jacquère grape, and is crisp and refreshing.
When Pierre Boniface took over Les Rocailles from his father they made one wine (Apremont, from Jacquére grapes) from just under 20 acres of vineyards. Pierre now makes nine different wines, has greatly improved the facilities by adding stainless steel fermentation 
tanks to capture the purity of fruit, and has increased his vineyard holding ten times over. He makes about 6,000 cases of Roussette de Savoie from just over 22 acres of vines. Eighty percent of his wines are sold within Savoie, and a further ten percent throughout the rest of France.
Brut des Rocs is a great example of sparkling wine that approaches the quality of a good bottle of Champagne, but maintains its own unique character, like drinking a crystal clear, freezing cold, alpine stream. There is a lot to think about here, but before you get swept away, look at your glass under a strong (incandescent) light, or under daylight. You might notice that there is a faint blue tinge to this wine. I don’t have a good explanation for the color, but it’s one of my favorite parts of the wine.
The grapes here are 90% Jacquere (the native white grape of Savoie) and 10% Chardonnay. Try this wonder with white sausages (like bratwurst, weisswurst, or even hot dogs or kielbasa), braised chicken, shellfish, or salads (great salad wines are rare). Drink now – 2010
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Tags: Alain Thouroud, Brut, Chardonnay, Guillame Durand, Jacquère, Pierre Boniface, Savoie
Monday, July 20th, 2009
This is a real treat from Italy. Sangiovese and Cabernet from Massa Maritima (near Morellino di Scansano). Serious care and love go into the wines from this ancient family’s estates.
Morisfarms is the Tuscan estate of the Parentini family, which comprises an impressive 420 hectares under vine, with the vast majority of vine¬yards lying within the Morellino di Scansano sub¬zone of the rugged Maremma region in southwestern Tuscany. Morellino, which is often known as “Baby Brunello” is one of the great, undiscovered wine-pro¬ducing regions of Tuscany. The wines of Morellino stylistically represent a hypothetical blend between the generally medium-bodied, red fruity, spicy and tangy wines of Chianti and the more plummy and serious wines of Brunello. Perversely, Morellino di Scansano’s relatively low profile on the international wine market has allowed it to avoid the pitfalls of over-extraction and excessive use of new oak barrels that has come to plague many of the formerly 
superb estates in Brunello in the last decade.
The property at Massa Maritima is called Fattoria Poggietti, and the vineyard there sits at about 100 meters above see level, on well-drained, slightly alkaline soil (ph 7.7) that helps to turn up the acid in the Sangiovese. This wine consists of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine is aged for 12 months in seasoned oak barrels, then further aged in bottle before release.
Think savory herbs, baked cherries, and hints of iodine and minerals. Try this wine with game, or leaner cuts of good beef. It’s also great with hearty stews and dishes with stewed tomatoes. Drink now – 2017
Posted in Off the Beaten Path All Red - July '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Cabernet Sauvignon, Montereggio di Massa Maritima, Morisfarms, Parenti, Sangiovese, Tuscany
Monday, July 20th, 2009
A lot of Spain this month, you might be thinking. But how can I resist when there are so many great wines coming from every corner of Spain. And best of all, they are very different. So think of this as a wine from somewhere else if it makes you feel better!
Priorat, in Catalonia, is the home of old vines, licorella (decomposed granite schist with bits of formica and quartzite) soil, and some really exciting red wines. It has recently sprung to fame as some great winemakers have begun applying modern winemaking techniques and getting world class results. The result of this, has been lots of really expensive Priorato on the market. But there are still some bargains, 
and when they show up, they need to be jumped on. (for a pdf of a great wine map of spain, click here)
Vinícola del Priorat is a cooperative consisting of top growers in the villages of Gratallops, el Lloar, la Vilella Alta and la Vilella Baixa. From the best of their grapes, the wines of Onix are made. The 2006 Clàssic is a blend of 50% Mazuelo (called Carignan in France, and Cariñena in other parts of Spain) and 50% Garnacha. The wine sees no oak, allowing the heady, spicy aromas and flavors of the grapes to scream out of the glass.
Think about red fruit, white pepper, dried herbs and leather here. Try this with fish, poultry, or burgers. Also great with grilled or roasted veggies. Drink now -2012.
Posted in Off the Beaten Path All Red - July '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Carignan, Catalonia, Garnacha, Mazuelo, Onix Classic, Priorat, Spain
Monday, July 20th, 2009
Castile la Mancha is one of the frontiers of Spanish wine. Not because wine is new to the area, but because there are few regulations, and tons of land to play with. It’s a generally hot climate, and as such, can produce very powerful wines. At their best, these can exciting full-bodied reds from Temrpanillo (called Cencibel here), Mourvedre (called Monastrell), Garnacha, and even International red varieties like Merlot and Cabernet. La Mancha DO is the largest in Spain, encompassing 30,700 sq. km.
Venta la Ossa is a modern winery, with the goal of making the best wines from La Mancha. It is located in the Herencia district. The winemaking 
team consists of Oenolgists José Carlos García, and Joana Caldeira, and Vineyard Director Juan Antonio Leza. 2005 is their second vintage, and the wine is already causing quite a stir, and more importantly, they are delicious. In order to reach their quality goals, the winery observes a self-imposed production limit of 8,000 cases (split between this, a lesser red and a rose).
Venta la Ossa is a blend of 85% Cencibal, 10% Petit Verdot and 5% Merlot. It is aged in French oak for 12 months. The results are a powerful, pretty red that is packed with spicy fruit, minerality, and toasty hints of oak. Try this roast piggies, lambs and bunnies . . . and don’t forget the garlic. Drink now – 2015.
Posted in Off the Beaten Path All Red - July '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Cencibel, Joana Caldeira, José Carlos García, Juan Antonio, La Mancha, Merlot, Petite Verdot, Tempranillo, Venta la Ossa
Monday, July 20th, 2009
Even adventurous drinkers like us have to drink Chardonnay once in a while. And if we’re going to, it ought to Chardonnay that is as exciting as the last bottle of Verdejo we had. For me, one of the producers who consistently scores on this account is Jean Rijckaert. He makes wine from Burgundy’s often disappointing Mâcon (though his wines never disappoint) and from the Jura. This month, we are going to try one of the Mâcons.
Originally a wine merchant in his native Belgium, Jean Rijckaert’s first foray into wine production was in 1990 in a partnership with the illustrious Jean-Marie Guffens of Domaine Verget. He moved to Burgundy and worked with Guffens in a winemaking capacity. After the 1996 harvest, the two men dissolved their partnership, Rijckaert bought vineyards and started making wine under his own label. Like Verget, Rijckaert focuses on the Mâconnais but is also intrigued with the Jura Region, due East of the Cote de Beaune. He has acquired old vines – a designation he reserves for vines over 35 years. His yields are lower than AC regulations. The Vire-Clesse l’Epinet for example, yielded 47 hl/ha versus the 66hl/ha permissible by law.
Jean Rijckaert is admirably strict in his grapegrowing and wine making. No chemicals are used in the vineyards, and no machines. Yields are strictly limited to a maximum of 45 hl/ha. Grapes are hand-harvested into small 40kg baskets to ensure that they arrive at the winery whole. The wines are whole-cluster pressed. All fermentations are slow (sometimes 4 to 5 months) and use only natural yeast. Wines are aged on their lees and not racked until bottling. Wine are aged exclusively in barrique, but only a tiny amout (15-20% is new). The results are beautifully transparent, surprisingly intense wines that are always exciting.
St. Veran is one of the villages in the Macon that is entitled to use it’s own name without attaching the world Macon to it (the other famous one is Pouilly-Fuisse). Though it is only better by degrees than the surrounding areas, it does seem to consistently produce really great wine. The Macon is the flat sandy area that is south of the Côte d’Or and just north of Beaujolais. Chardonnay is the almost exclusive grape variety planted here.
This wine is both racy and rich at the same time. Loads of citrus and tart apple ripple with minerality and hints of spice and all are tamed by more than a bit of creamy richness. Drink this with a grilled cheese sandwich (with good cheese on fresh bread of course) or poached chicken, or that great big piece of fish you’ve been dying to grill. Drink now – 2013. 
Posted in Off the Beaten Path - July -09 | No Responses »
Tags: Belgium, Chardonnay, Jean Rijckaert, Jean-Marie Guffens, Mâcon, St. Veran, Verget
Monday, July 20th, 2009
Columbard is thought to be a cross between Gouais Blanc (you just drank one of these the other night, didn’t you?) and Chenin Blanc. It is most common in the Charente where it is used to produce Cognac and Gascogny where it is used to produce Armagnac, though it produces lesser quality brandies than Ugni Blanc because it has lower acidity and higher alcohol. There are also giant plantings in 
California (it was the most planted white grape there until 1991) where it produces mediocre wine from the central valley that often shows up in jugs of “California Chablis” and increasing plantings in South Africa where it makes really tasty wines (I’ll put one in a future shipment).
Domaine de Mirail has had vineyards in Gascony since they were planted by Guilheim Miraihl in 1491. The Domaine is now owned by Charles Hochman and Sons.
This Columbard is from Domaine de Mirail who also produces very good Armagnac (which, incidentally is made from 100% Folle Blanche, but a topic for another day). They have decided to treat their Columbard plantings as quality still wine grapes, and the results have been phenomenal. The vineyards are planted at a relatively high density of 3600 plants per ha, and have relatively low yield of 60 hl/ha (in California Columbard often yields 210 hl/ha). Grapes are harvested at night to maintain their acidity, and soaked on their skins before pressing. The go through a cool fermentation, then remain on their lees in the tanks for 4-6 months, when they are bottled. The resulting wine is wonderfully refreshing, and full of vibrant peach and grapefruit flavors, with a creamy mouthfeel . . . perfect front porch wine.
This perversely enjoyable white goes well with tons of food. Try chicken or fish with ginger, fresh cheeses, prawns. Drink now, it won’t get any better.
Posted in Off the Beaten Path - July -09 | No Responses »
Tags: Armagnac, Charles Hochman, Columbard, Gascogne, Guilheim Mirailh, Mirail
Monday, July 20th, 2009
Verdejo from Rueda is one of the many recent success stories in Spain. Rueda has a perfect continental climate, with cold winters, hot summers, and all of its precipitation concentrated in the winter. In the past, the hot, dry summers caused the native Verdejo grape, which is prone to oxidation, to produce wines that were nutty and lacking in acidity and fruit. But along came temperature control (about 25 years ago, brought by Marqués de Riscal, who single-handedly revived the area) and Verdejo began to show that it is a bright, vibrant, fruity and unique grape variety. The number of delicious wines made in a variety of styles from Rueda Verdejo is hard to fathom (see this great NY 
times article for some really good suggestions about others to look for). What is especially nice is that Rueda, through modern winemaking techniques, has managed to keep their unique native grape as the focus of their region, adding to, rather than taking away from the variety available in the world. (a great article in the NYTimes about Rueda)
Verdejo bears a lot of flavor similarity to Sauvignon Blanc, particularly in the crisp, herby nature of the fruit. But it also has similarities to Viognier, in the intensity of it’s fruit, and to Grüner Veltliner in its spiciness. All in all, a very exciting, and often very delicious addition to our wine drinking routine.
The three owners of Bodegas Naia are: Javier Alen, who owns the Viña Mein winery in the Ribeiro D.O. region. Victor Rodriguez, formerly a director of the highly acclaimed food and wine magazine Vino y Gastronomia, and Eulogio Calleja, a highly regarded winemaker in Rueda. Bodegas Naia is one of the top producers of Verdejo, and this is their top wine, a selection from the 5 hectares of pre-phyloxera, ungrafted, 100+ year-old Verdejo vines that have achingly low yields. After being harvested at night (to ensure the grapes are cool and prevent oxidation) this wine is barrel fermented and aged in French Oak for 8 months on the lees. The result is a delightfully fruity wine, with hints of spiciness and herbs, and a creamy mouthfeel.
Try this wine with sopa Castellana (soup with eggs, bread, ham, garlic), anything with fresh goat cheese, or grilled figs (no sugar please) or other grilled fruit. In truth, it’s really flexible wine. Drink now – 2011
Posted in Off the Beaten Path - July -09 | No Responses »
Tags: Bodegas Naia, Castille y Leon, Eulogio Calleja, Javier Allen, Naiades, Rueda, Verdejo, Victor Rodriguez
Monday, July 20th, 2009
Those of you who have been with us for a while will probably notice that I finally sent out a repeat this week. It was bound to happen, because of my unscientific method of picking wines: I send the wines that I have tasted and gotten really excited about in the past month. At least I repeated a good one! By the time I noticed, it was too late to change the shipments. For those who have been with me since April when I sent this out last, I will send you a bonus bottle next month to make up for this. In the meantime, enjoy this one.
The Vila family has been growing grapes in Argentina since colonial times. In an industry dominated by Italians and Basques this old Castilian family is a minority. Their vineyards cover several thousand acres. They have always been growers, not winemakers. Much of their acreage is under contract to large Bodegas, including some multinationals. Some grapes are sold on the spot market, crushed and sold as unfermented juice or (a small percentage) made into wine for bulk sale. All of the vineyards lie in the Cruz de Piedra area of Mendoza.
Six years ago the children (Pepe, Miriam, Susana & Sebastien) decided that they wanted to make and bottle wine. An impressive 400 acres of the best family vineyards were withdrawn from contract and turned over to them. Fernando’s son Pepe is the general manager. One daughter, Miriam, is in charge of sales. Last year’s winemaking team is gone, with Mónica Calderón replaced by a talented young graduate of the University of Mendoza, Sebastien Onofrio. Sebastien is ably assisted by yet another Vila sister, the energetic and dedicated Susana, while Miriam goes to another winery to work (at least for a 
while) as a winemaker outside the family.
The emphasis here is squarely on value. The Vilas are interested in good and fine, not great wine. What sets them apart from many other mid-size Argentine Bodegas is their absolute passion for quality and the investment capital to make it happen.
Before the new project, winemaking for bulk sale took place in a large shed with barely adequate equipment. To make wine worthy of bottling, a vast old brick building was renovated and filled with modern equipment and oak, including both barrels and innerstaves.
Tinto Fundación is one of the world’s great wine values. It is composed of 50% Bonarda, 25% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. It is aged in a combination of 3 – 4 year old American oak barrels and innerstaves. This is a great wine for hard to semi-soft cheese, stew, or pizza. Drink now – 2012.
Posted in April '09, Off The Beaten Path - April '09, Off The Beaten Path All Red - April '09, Off the Beaten Path - July -09, Off the Beaten Path All Red - July '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Bonarda, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cruz de la Piedra, Maipu, Malbec, Mendoza, Vinas de Vila
Monday, July 20th, 2009
Cabardés sits directly west of Minervois, and just ten miles from the ancient walled city of Carcassone, perched atop the Montaigne Noire, at the place where Southwest France’s Atlantic climate and attitudes meet Languedoc’s Mediterranean climate and attitudes. As such, the grapes here are an unusual mixture of Bordeaux Varieties (min 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, min 40% Grenache and Syrah, and up to 20% Cot and Fer Servadou). As are the wines. No region embraces them warmly, though they are technically part of the department of Languedoc. Cabardés is also a recent appellation, though winemaking here goes back as far as anywhere in France, since 1998. The result is that no one knows about these delightful, and delightfully original wines.
Château de Jouclary is owned by Robert and Pascal Gianesini, who have been making exceptional wines from their 60 ha estate. Rather than use all of the permitted red grapes, they have focused on the three which they believe grow best on their property: Merlot, Grenache and Syrah. The Merlot makes up the majority of the wine, and provides the background, while Syrah and Grenache from the rocky upper slopes of the hill provide spice and richness.
Winemaking here is carefully done, but rustic. The wines undergo a slow fermentation in lined cement vats (very old school), and then rest for 12 months in vats of cement, and neutral oak. The blend for Cuvée Tradition is 50% Merlot, 25% Grenache, 25% Syrah. No fancy machines, no new oak barriques, and no gleaming stainless steel.
This wine is spicy and robust, with lots of cherry, raspberry and blackberry fruit, and lots of tobacco, leather, smoke and spice. Yet even with these brooding flavors, this is a great red wine for richer white fish, or for a cheeseburger, or with charcuterie and olives. Drink now – 2012.
(these are rustic producers, and don’t have their own website yet, so sorry for the lack of links and pictures)
Posted in Off the Beaten Path - July -09, Off the Beaten Path All Red - July '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Cabardes, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carcassone, Grenache, Jouclary, Languedoc, Pascal Gianesi, Robert Gianesi, Syrah
Monday, July 20th, 2009
Southwest France remains one of the greatest sources of hearty, rustic, delicious reds in the world. It is lucky for the adventurous, that the name Bordeaux evokes such intense (often misplaced) trust, because no one ever ventures south, to the likes of Cahors, Irouleguy and Madiran which suits me just fine. These wines remain some of the most underpriced in all of France.
Madiran is at the top of this heap, and it’s limestone and clay soils with pebbles of iron and manganese dropped by glaciers, have been home to grapes since at least the Gallo-Roman times. The grape of choice here is Tannat: it’s hard not to comment on the similarity between the name of the grape, and the feature that it is most known for – ripping tannins. These tannins come with a deep, herbaceous cherry liqueur like fruit, and a complex set of secondary flavors that include iron and blood. And there has been a welcome influx of modern winemaking here that has had just enough success to tone the tannins down to a manageable, if still impressive, level, while highlighting the fruit, texture and complexity that Tannat is capable of.
Pierre Speyer, a Belgian native who also runs a successful company that supplies dolly equipment to the film industry, now owns the 3.9 ha that make up Domaine Laffont. Since 2005, he has been farming organically, and following the cycles of the moon for important work, such as harvesting, pruning and bottling. Care is taken at every step shows through in the final product. From small flats for the harvested grapes that are stored in temperature control overnight in order not to be pressed hot, to multiple sorting tables, to the 5 weeks that the grapes spend on their skins to extract every ounce of flavor and complexity, everything that happens at Domaine Laffont screams quality.
Erigone, named after the Athenian princess who’s seduction by Dionysus ultimately to her and her dog’s suicide*, is a blend of 80% Tannat from 45 year old vines and 20% Cabernet Franc from 25 to 30 year old vines. The wine spends 16 months in 2nd and 3rd use barrels. Try this wine with Magrette de Canard (duck breast), lamb burger, or a hearty Southwest cheese, like Roquefort. Drink now – 2016+
*Erigone was a princess from Athens who was seduced by Dionysus. Dionysus, in gratitude, taught her father Icarius how to make wine. When Icarius served the wine to his shephards, they became drunk, and thinking they had been poisoned, murdered Icarius. Erigone, guided by her dog Maera, discovered her father’s body, and hanged herself. Maera jumped into a well and drowned. Dionysus, upon discovering the murder/suicide set a plague on Athens by which all of the maidens in a fit of madness, hanged themselves. In order to appease Dionysus, the Athenians found and killed the murderers, and instituted the festival of Aiorus (or swings) in which young women and images would be placed on swings throughout Athens. I love Greek Mythology!
Posted in Off the Beaten Path - July -09, Off the Beaten Path All Red - July '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Cabernet Franc, Domaine Laffont, Erigone, Pierre Speyer, Southwest France, Tannat
Sunday, July 19th, 2009
This wine is breathtakingly delicious. In fact, it’s so good that it’s hard to think about it seriously.
Founded in 1981, by Marco Ricasoli Firidolfi, who is a distant relative of Baron Bettisino Ricasoli, the inventor of the modern Chianti blend, Rocca di Montegrossi is located in Gaiole, Chianti on the grounds of an ancient fort that was built between 600 and 800 AD by Geremia, who is also a distant relative of Marco’s. The estate covers 60 ha, of which 18 are vineyards, 10 are olive trees, and the rest are forest.
As of 2007, Rocca di Montegrossi is certified Organic, though they have been farming this 
way for some time. Marco, is a staunch traditionalist when it comes to blending his Chiantis, and so doesn’t include any international varieties, leaving his small plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot for Geremia.
1015 cases of Geremia (and 16 cases of 3 magnums ea), consisting of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon are were made in 2004. The wine spends 25 months in French Alliers oak, 29% of which is new, 44% one year old, and 27% two years old. After it is bottled, the wine is held for another 18 months at the winery before release.
Dark cherry and cassis, spice, minerals, and toasty oak compete with one another on the nose and palate, and the wine has a pleasantly powerful backbone of tannins and acid to put it all into focus. Try this with bistecca Fiorentina (I use a few drops of Balsamico instead of lemons), roasted root vegetables with lots of garlic, or just on its own, for the pleasure of drinking it. Drink 2010 – 2025.
Posted in The Next Big Thing All Red - July '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Baron Ricassoli, Cabernet Sauvignon, Marco Ricasoli Firadolfi, Merlot, Rocca di Montegrossi, Tuscany
Sunday, July 19th, 2009
Walter Hansel was a lifelong wine enthusiast who had the vision to plant his estate’s original 250 vines in 1978. Today, Stephen, Walter’s son, has taken up where his father left off, pursuing his vision of producing world-class Burgundian-styled Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, all from the Russian River Valley.
Steve Hansel’s friend, famed winemaker Tom Rochioli, helped him in the early stages of his wine education by inviting him to work a couple of harvests at the Rochioli vineyards. Steve performed his first solo attempt in 1996 out of his garage.
At Walter Hansel Winery, the emphasis is on low yields (a miniscule range from 1.5 to 2.7 tons/acre) for greater complexity. Since all their grapes are grown on their own property, they can exercise strict control in the vineyards, which are planted with 5 Pinot and 5 Chardonnay clones. Each clone was chosen for its specific acid and flavor variations.
All of Steve’s fruit is hand-harvested, and it is re-examined again at the winery. Hansel makes an average of 9 total passes through each vineyard. Each pass is time consuming and expensive but Stephen feels the vine rewards him with more concentrated flavors.
The winery uses only natural yeast during fermentation. Fining and filtration are minimal. The Pinots are held on the lees without racking for 12 months. The Chardonnays are whole cluster fermented and gently pressed to extract the juice. The cooperage varies from year-to-year, cuvée-to-cuvée, but none of the wine is aged on entirely new oak. One- and two-year-old barrels are always employed.
Cuvée Alyce, named after Stephen’s mother, is made from a selection of the richest barrels in the winery, and as such, the vineyard blend varies from year to year. The 2006 is glorious: full of spunk and acid, but also full of beautifully ripe fruit ranging the entire Chardonnay spectrum, from yellow apple and citrus to tropical, to berries and stonefruit. There is a minerality here, as well, that adds to the monumentally exciting experience. Drink this with scallops on the grill, Salmon, roasted wild mushrooms, or foie gras torchon. Drink now – 2013.
Posted in The Next Big Thing - July '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Chardonnay, Cuvée Alyce, Rochioli, Russian River Valley, Stephen Hansel, Walter Hansel
Sunday, July 19th, 2009
This is a phenomenal wine. The masterpiece of the very special Pasanau Germans estate, located in the highest altitude village of Priorat, la Morera de Montsant, the the la Planeta vineyard sits at 2400 feet elevation (the highest in Priorat) and abuts the sheer cliff of the Sierra de Montsant, which forms the boundary of Priorat. Because of the high altitude and especially stony soil – like the rest of Priorat, the soil here is decomposed slate (called Licorella) but because of the proximity of the cliffs, it wasn’t as decomposed as it is in some other places – Ricard Pasanau planted Cabernet Sauvignon in this vineyard back in 1986 when he planted it. The cool, high 
altitude air, and the ridiculously infertile soil make the vineyard naturally low yielding: only 13,000 bottles are produced from the 2.9 ha vineyard. 10% Grenache from another vineyard in La Morera is used to soften the powerful, and austere Cabernet Sauvignon. (click here to see a map of Priorat)
It’s interesting to note that this wine is from 210 miles away from Collioure, and as such, makes a really interesting comparison to the 2005 Domaine du Mas Blanc Cosprons Levants in this same shipment.
Upon harvest, the grapes, tansported in 40 pound boxes to the winery, where they are lightly crushed and destemmed, and the must flows by gravity to temperature controlled tanks, where it goes through a cool, slow fermentation. The 
wine is aged in a half French oak, with the balance being made up of Central European and American barrels, for 14 months.
The Cabernet Sauvignon shows through here, and this is a structured, majestic, wine, that takes time to show it’s true character. Try this with beef, smoked pork (Mangalista, Berkshire, or other heirloom variety is best here) or other hearty dishes. Grilling is not a bad idea here. Though this wine is breathtaking now, it will be at it’s best from 2012 – 2024 as the tannins begin to loosen their grip and allow the intense minerality and fruit to really explode.
Posted in The Next Big Thing - July '09, The Next Big Thing All Red - July '09 | 1 Response »
Tags: Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, High Altitude, Licorella, Priorato DOQ, Ricard Pasanau, Spain
Sunday, July 19th, 2009
In 2003, while I was the wine director at Cascadia Restaurant, I had the pleasure of hosting a dinner at which Michel Salgues, the founding winemaker at Roederer Estate, poured every vintage of L’Ermitage, going back to 1989 (released in 1993). The wines were stunning, showing freshness throughout the ten vintages (we had a pre-release 2000, and they had skipped a vintage in the mid nineties), but with increasing complexity as the wines got older, and an amazing depth that I have yet to find in a non-Champagne sparkler . . . until this past April. What we didn’t know before we scheduled the dinner, was that Michel would announce, for the first time in public, at this dinner that he was retiring from Roederer Estate to return to France with his wife, who desperately missed her home country (they had been here since 1982).
This past April, at Pebble Beach Food & Wine, I had the pleasure of leading a team of sommeliers pouring for another complete vertical of L’Ermitage, only this time the discussion was led by the Michel’s successor, the brilliant Arnaud Weyrich. Once again, I was reminded that these wines were exceptional, and, in fact (here comes the blasphemy), better than 90% of the Champagne available on the market. The wines have the complexity, and intensity to age, and have a class unequaled outside of Champagne.
There are many reasons for this. The cool, even climate of the Anderson Valley, where Roederer estate’s 580 acres of vineyard lies. The 5 years that L’Ermitage spends on Tirage, and the additional 6 – 12 months on cork after disgorgement. The blending team (the same group used for blending Cristal). The fact that they can afford to use nothing but the Cuvée (confusing this also means the first, light pressing of the grapes). The fact that they hold reserve wine, and wine for the dosage liqueur in specially made barriques from the center of France.
The blend in 2002 is 52% Chardonnay, 48% Pinot Noir.
When young, these wines are fruity, and fresh, with just a hint of creaminess. As they age, they take on complexity in the form of toasty and smoky hints, flowers and tropical fruit, and even the beginnings of mineral character. But the wines are always held together by a fresh acidity and a gorgeous mousse, that was only beginning to fade on the 1989 this past spring.
Try this wine with anything, but I particularly like it with roast poultry (skin on), grilled steaks (nothing on) and asparagus. Drink now – 2020.
Posted in Champagne and Sparkling Wine Society - July '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Anderson Valley, Arnaud Weyrich, Chardonnay, L'Ermitage, Michel Salgues, Pinot Noir, Roederer Estate, Sparkling
Sunday, July 19th, 2009
Collioure is the AOC for dry wines that come from the same tiny corner of Mediterranean Roussillon as Banyuls. In fact, Dr. André Parcé, Mayor of Banyuls, research chemist, and groundbreaking winemaker/owner of Domaine du Mas Blanc, campaigned for making Collioure its own appellation in 1971. Banyuls is the AOC for the delightful, if strangely made, sweet fortified reds from Mourvedre, Syrah, Grenache and Counoise . . . think of Banyuls as Madeira’s good looking redneck cousin. For the same reason that the area is perfect for Banyuls: it can produce exceptional, and exceptionally powerful still wine from ripe Mourvedre, Syrah, Grenache and Counoise that manage to maintain their acid and tannins because of the cooling influence of the Mediterranean. (click here to see a map of Roussillon)
Jean-Michel Parcé, Dr. Parcé’s son, has been responsible for the winemaking since 1977, and took over the entire estate upon his father’s passing in 1997. The estate consists of about 20 hectares of vines, planted on terraces of schist rising above the Mediterranean. Baked by dry sun in the summer, but mitigated by tramontane and mistral winds and the Mediterranean, the vines range in age from 30 to over 70 years old, and are farmed organically. The wines are bottled without fining or filtration.
This wine represents a true field blend: the 2.5 hectare vineyard, which is 900 meters from the sea, is planted to 60% Syrah, 30% Mourvedre and 10% Grenache, which is harvest and handled together. Upon harvesting, the grapes are destemmed, and then trodden by foot. They macerate on the skins for 15 days in temperature controlled tanks, and are removed to 3 year old barrels, where the wine ages for 12 months, after the fermentation is complete. 950 cases were made.
This wine exhibits a nearly magical combination of fruit, mineral, spice, and heady, meaty aromas and 
flavors, but it is the texture that sets it apart: powerful and rich, but with a freshness and lightness that are rare even in lighter wines, and powerful, but incredibly smooth tannins that are the result of the food trodding (the souls of our feet have the perfect amount of cushion to extract the most from the skins without crushing the tiny, brittle pips). Try this with duck, roast lamb, any game bird. Drink now – 2018
photos on this page by Stuart B. Cooper
Posted in The Next Big Thing - July '09, The Next Big Thing All Red - July '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Banyuls, Colliure, Dr. Parcé, Grenache, Jean-Michel Parcé, Madeira, Mas Blanc, Mediterranean, Mourvedre, Syrah
Sunday, July 19th, 2009
The Vallée de la Marne is known mostly for its Pinot Meunier, and following that, for some very good Pinot Noir, which makes up about 27% of its plantings. In fact, only 10% of the vines in the Vallée de la Marne are planted to Chardonnay. But, luckily for us, some of that Chardonnay lies on the property of the Serveaux family, who make an exceptional Blanc de Blancs.
The estate got its start in 1950. Mr. and Mrs. Pascal Serveaux run the Domaine with the help of their son. They now own 11 hectares (29 acres) mainly locat¬ed in Passy sur Marne. A large portion of the estate vineyards are located mid-slope, nicely nestled on the bank of the meandering Marne River, with a fully southern exposure. Because of their good exposure, the Serveaux parcels have better luck with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir than some of the other areas, as cooler spots in the Vallée de la Marne are prone to frost. All of the parcels lie on chalky soils typical of the region. The domain’s vines are spread over two terroirs, Passy and Barzy, and divided over 30 parcels. (Click here for a map of Champagne)
Everything is done on the estate. The Domaine has been practicing “culture raisonnée” for several years, limiting vineyard treatments to a minimum. The vines are severely pruned in the spring to limit production. Soils are enriched with organic fertilizers. They sell a part of their production to the trade and keep the best grapes for their estate-bottled production. All lots and varietals are vinified separately in temperature controlled stainless steel fermenters. Three years of bottle ageing prior to disgorgement.
Total production at Serveaux Fils is 7000 cases, spread over seven cuvees, with the entry level Cart d’Or and Carte Noire making up the lions share.
Serveaux Blanc de Blancs tricks you into believing it is delicate, but finishes with a reserved power that is as pleasant as it is surprising. Aromas of white fruit and acacia flowers, and a very delicate mousse, but also a firm backbone of minerally acidity, and a lovely yeasty complexity are the hallmarks. Try this with miso soup, tonkatsu (don’t forget the tonkatsu sauce), or fish quenelles. Drink now – 2012
Posted in Champagne and Sparkling Wine Society - July '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, Chardonnay, Pascal Serveaux, Passy-sur-Marne, Vallée de la Marne
