Champagne and Sparkling Wine Society - July '09

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The wines shipped with The Champagne & Sparkling Wine Society July 2009 Shipments

 

The Champagne and Sparkling Wine Society – July 2009

Monday, July 20th, 2009

We’ve got some great wines for you this month. A beautiful Blanc de Blancs from Passy-sur-Marne, a vintage sparkler from California that is probably my favorite non-Champagne sparkler in the world, and certainly the best in the United States, and a delightful Alpine sparkler from Savoie.

There is one major change this month, which I ought to let you in on. The first is that I have gone back to including wine notes with each of the shipments. I found beautiful 100% post-consumer recycled paper, and I have been feeling like not having the notes in your shipment takes away some of the value. But don’t let the notes keep you from going to the website: there are pictures and links to more information and maps for each of the selections, a plethora of good stuff that you don’t want to miss. There is also an opportunity to comment on the wines and share your thoughts (though no one has done this yet. Your invitation code to register and leave comments on the site is “member01″.

Also, we have a very special tasting at Cellar46 on August 1st. I will be leading a tasting of the exceptional Burgundies from Lucien Le Moine. For more information, click here.  reservations are required, but it’s well worth it: the wines are stunning!

To see the selections for this month click here

I hope you enjoy the wines.

Thank you,

Jake

NV La Rocailles (Pierre Boniface) Brut des Rocs, Vin de Savoie, France

Monday, July 20th, 2009

Brut Les RocaillesSavoie, located on the French side of the Swiss border, and nestled in the Alps, is nearly as large as Bordeaux, yet produces only one-fiftieth as much wine. The majority of wine here is made from the Jacquère grape, and is crisp and refreshing.

When Pierre Boniface took over Les Rocailles from his father they made one wine (Apremont, from Jacquére grapes) from just under 20 acres of vineyards. Pierre now makes nine different wines, has greatly improved the facilities by adding stainless steel fermentation boniface_pic_cctanks to capture the purity of fruit, and has increased his vineyard holding ten times over. He makes about 6,000 cases of Roussette de Savoie from just over 22 acres of vines. Eighty percent of his wines are sold within Savoie, and a further ten percent throughout the rest of France.

Brut des Rocs is a great example of sparkling wine that approaches the quality of a good bottle of Champagne, but maintains its own unique character, like drinking a crystal clear, freezing cold, alpine stream. There is a lot to think about here, but before you get swept away, look at your glass under a strong (incandescent) light, or under daylight. You might notice that there is a faint blue tinge to this wine. I don’t have a good explanation for the color, but it’s one of my favorite parts of the wine.

The grapes here are 90% Jacquere (the native white grape of Savoie) and 10% Chardonnay. Try this wonder with white sausages (like bratwurst, weisswurst, or even hot dogs or kielbasa), braised chicken, shellfish, or salads (great salad wines are rare). Drink now – 2010

2002 Roederer Estate L’Ermitage, Anderson Valley, CA

Sunday, July 19th, 2009

2002 L'ErmitageIn 2003, while I was the wine director at Cascadia Restaurant, I had the pleasure of hosting a dinner at which Michel Salgues, the founding winemaker at Roederer Estate, poured every vintage of L’Ermitage, going back to 1989 (released in 1993). The wines were stunning, showing freshness throughout the ten vintages (we had a pre-release 2000, and they had skipped a vintage in the mid nineties), but with increasing complexity as the wines got older, and an amazing depth that I have yet to find in a non-Champagne sparkler . . . until this past April. What we didn’t know before we scheduled the dinner, was that Michel would announce, for the first time in public, at this dinner that he was retiring from Roederer Estate to return to France with his wife, who desperately missed her home country (they had been here since 1982).

Happy grapes have great views at Roederer EstateThis past April, at Pebble Beach Food & Wine, I had the pleasure of leading a team of sommeliers pouring for another complete vertical of L’Ermitage, only this time the discussion was led by the Michel’s successor, the brilliant Arnaud Weyrich. Once again, I was reminded that these wines were exceptional, and, in fact (here comes the blasphemy), better than 90% of the Champagne available on the market. The wines have the complexity, and intensity to age, and have a class unequaled outside of Champagne.

There are many reasons for this. The cool, even climate of the Anderson Valley, where Roederer estate’s 580 acres of vineyard lies. The 5 years that L’Ermitage spends on Tirage, and the additional 6 – 12 months on cork after disgorgement. The blending team (the same group used for blending Cristal). The fact that they can afford to use nothing but the Cuvée (confusing this also means the first, light pressing of the grapes). The fact that they hold reserve wine, and wine for the dosage liqueur in specially made barriques from the center of France.

Happy grapes get crushed here, still with a great viewThe blend in 2002 is 52% Chardonnay, 48% Pinot Noir.

When young, these wines are fruity, and fresh, with just a hint of creaminess. As they age, they take on complexity in the form of toasty and smoky hints, flowers and tropical fruit, and even the beginnings of mineral character. But the wines are always held together by a fresh acidity and a gorgeous mousse, that was only beginning to fade on the 1989 this past spring.

Try this wine with anything, but I particularly like it with roast poultry (skin on), grilled steaks (nothing on) and asparagus. Drink now – 2020.

NV Serveaux Fils Blanc de Blancs, Passy-sur-Marne, Champange, France

Sunday, July 19th, 2009

Serveaux Blanc de BlancsThe Vallée de la Marne is known mostly for its Pinot Meunier, and following that, for some very good Pinot Noir, which makes up about 27% of its plantings. In fact, only 10% of the vines in the Vallée de la Marne are planted to Chardonnay. But, luckily for us, some of that Chardonnay lies on the property of the Serveaux family, who make an exceptional Blanc de Blancs.

Pascal Serveaux et FilThe estate got its start in 1950. Mr. and Mrs. Pascal Serveaux run the Domaine with the help of their son. They now own 11 hectares (29 acres) mainly locat¬ed in Passy sur Marne. A large portion of the estate vineyards are located mid-slope, nicely nestled on the bank of the meandering Marne River, with a fully southern exposure. Because of their good exposure, the Serveaux parcels have better luck with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir than some of the other areas, as cooler spots in the Vallée de la Marne are prone to frost. All of the parcels lie on chalky soils typical of the region. The domain’s vines are spread over two terroirs, Passy and Barzy, and divided over 30 parcels.  (Click here for a map of Champagne)

Everything is done on the estate. The Domaine has been practicing “culture raisonnée” for several years, limiting vineyard treatments to a minimum. The vines are severely pruned in the spring to limit production. Soils are enriched with organic fertilizers. They sell a part of their production to the trade and keep the best grapes for their estate-bottled production. All lots and varietals are vinified separately in temperature controlled stainless steel fermenters. Three years of bottle ageing prior to disgorgement.

Total production at Serveaux Fils is 7000 cases, spread over seven cuvees, with the entry level Cart d’Or and Carte Noire making up the lions share.

Serveaux Blanc de Blancs tricks you into believing it is delicate, but finishes with a reserved power that is as pleasant as it is surprising. Aromas of white fruit and acacia flowers, and a very delicate mousse, but also a firm backbone of minerally acidity, and a lovely yeasty complexity are the hallmarks. Try this with miso soup, tonkatsu (don’t forget the tonkatsu sauce), or fish quenelles. Drink now – 2012

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