Southwest France remains one of the greatest sources of hearty, rustic, delicious reds in the world. It is lucky for the adventurous, that the name Bordeaux evokes such intense (often misplaced) trust, because no one ever ventures south, to the likes of Cahors, Irouleguy and Madiran which suits me just fine. These wines remain some of the most underpriced in all of France.

Madiran is at the top of this heap, and it’s limestone and clay soils with pebbles of iron and manganese dropped by glaciers, have been home to grapes since at least the Gallo-Roman times. The grape of choice here is Tannat: it’s hard not to comment on the similarity between the name of the grape, and the feature that it is most known for – ripping tannins. These tannins come with a deep, herbaceous cherry liqueur like fruit, and a complex set of secondary flavors that include iron and blood. And there has been a welcome influx of modern winemaking here that has had just enough success to tone the tannins down to a manageable, if still impressive, level, while highlighting the fruit, texture and complexity that Tannat is capable of.

Pierre Speyer, a Belgian native who also runs a successful company that supplies dolly equipment to the film industry, now owns the 3.9 ha that make up Domaine Laffont. Since 2005, he has been farming organically, and following the cycles of the moon for important work, such as harvesting, pruning and bottling. Care is taken at every step shows through in the final product. From small flats for the harvested grapes that are stored in temperature control overnight in order not to be pressed hot, to multiple sorting tables, to the 5 weeks that the grapes spend on their skins to extract every ounce of flavor and complexity, everything that happens at Domaine Laffont screams quality.

Erigone, named after the Athenian princess who’s seduction by Dionysus ultimately to her and her dog’s suicide*, is a blend of 80% Tannat from 45 year old vines and 20% Cabernet Franc from 25 to 30 year old vines. The wine spends 16 months in 2nd and 3rd use barrels. Try this wine with Magrette de Canard (duck breast), lamb burger, or a hearty Southwest cheese, like Roquefort. Drink now – 2016+

*Erigone was a princess from Athens who was seduced by Dionysus. Dionysus, in gratitude, taught her father Icarius how to make wine. When Icarius served the wine to his shephards, they became drunk, and thinking they had been poisoned, murdered Icarius. Erigone, guided by her dog Maera, discovered her father’s body, and hanged herself. Maera jumped into a well and drowned. Dionysus, upon discovering the murder/suicide set a plague on Athens by which all of the maidens in a fit of madness, hanged themselves. In order to appease Dionysus, the Athenians found and killed the murderers, and instituted the festival of Aiorus (or swings) in which young women and images would be placed on swings throughout Athens. I love Greek Mythology!