The Next Big Thing All Red - July '09

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The wines shipped with The Next Big Thing All Red, July 2009

 

The Next Big Thing – July 2009

Monday, July 20th, 2009

We have a stunning set of wines for you this month. And they’re from all over. California, France and Spain. If you have all red, no California, but you’ll get a treat from Italy instead. The wines aren’t subtle this month, but they sure are tasty.

There is one major changes this month, which I ought to let you in on. The first is that I have gone back to including wine notes with each of the shipments. I found beautiful 100% post-consumer recycled paper, and I have been feeling like not having the notes in your shipment takes away some of the value. But don’t let the notes keep you from going to the website: there are pictures and links to more information and maps for each of the selections, a plethora of good stuff that you don’t want to miss. There is also an opportunity to comment on the wines and share your thoughts (though no one has done this yet. Your invitation code to register and leave comments on the site is “member01″.

Also, we have a very special tasting at Cellar46 on August 1st. I will be leading a tasting of the exceptional Burgundies from Lucien Le Moine. For more information, click here.  reservations are required, but it’s well worth it: the wines are stunning!

To see the selections for this month click here

If you have all red, click here

I hope you enjoy the wines.

Thank you,

Jake

2004 Rocca di Montegrossi Geremia, Toscana IGT, Italy

Sunday, July 19th, 2009

2004 Geremia

This wine is breathtakingly delicious. In fact, it’s so good that it’s hard to think about it seriously.

Founded in 1981, by Marco Ricasoli Firidolfi, who is a distant relative of Baron Bettisino Ricasoli, the inventor of the modern Chianti blend, Rocca di Montegrossi is located in Gaiole, Chianti on the grounds of an ancient fort that was built between 600 and 800 AD by Geremia, who is also a distant relative of Marco’s. The estate covers 60 ha, of which 18 are vineyards, 10 are olive trees, and the rest are forest.

As of 2007, Rocca di Montegrossi is certified Organic, though they have been farming this Rocca di Montegrossiway for some time. Marco, is a staunch traditionalist when it comes to blending his Chiantis, and so doesn’t include any international varieties, leaving his small plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot for Geremia.

1015 cases of Geremia (and 16 cases of 3 magnums ea), consisting of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon are were made in 2004. The wine spends 25 months in French Alliers oak, 29% of which is new, 44% one year old, and 27% two years old. After it is bottled, the wine is held for another 18 months at the winery before release.

Dark cherry and cassis, spice, minerals, and toasty oak compete with one another on the nose and palate, and the wine has a pleasantly powerful backbone of tannins and acid to put it all into focus. Try this with bistecca Fiorentina (I use a few drops of Balsamico instead of lemons), roasted root vegetables with lots of garlic, or just on its own, for the pleasure of drinking it. Drink 2010 – 2025.

2004 Cellers Pasanau Finca la Planeta Priorato, Tarragona, Spain

Sunday, July 19th, 2009

2004 La Planeta LabelThis is a phenomenal wine. The masterpiece of the very special Pasanau Germans estate, located in the highest altitude village of Priorat, la Morera de Montsant, the the la Planeta vineyard sits at 2400 feet elevation (the highest in Priorat) and abuts the sheer cliff of the Sierra de Montsant, which forms the boundary of Priorat. Because of the high altitude and especially stony soil – like the rest of Priorat, the soil here is decomposed slate (called Licorella) but because of the proximity of the cliffs, it wasn’t as decomposed as it is in some other places – Ricard Pasanau planted Cabernet Sauvignon in this vineyard back in 1986 when he planted it. The cool, high La Planeta Vineyardaltitude air, and the ridiculously infertile soil make the vineyard naturally low yielding: only 13,000 bottles are produced from the 2.9 ha vineyard. 10% Grenache from another vineyard in La Morera is used to soften the powerful, and austere Cabernet Sauvignon. (click here to see a map of Priorat)

It’s interesting to note that this wine is from 210 miles away from Collioure, and as such, makes a really interesting comparison to the 2005 Domaine du Mas Blanc Cosprons Levants in this same shipment.

Upon harvest, the grapes, tansported in 40 pound boxes to the winery, where they are lightly crushed and destemmed, and the must flows by gravity to temperature controlled tanks, where it goes through a cool, slow fermentation. The The Bodega Pasanauwine is aged in a half French oak, with the balance being made up of Central European and American barrels, for 14 months.

The Cabernet Sauvignon shows through here, and this is a structured, majestic, wine, that takes time to show it’s true character. Try this with beef, smoked pork (Mangalista, Berkshire, or other heirloom variety is best here) or other hearty dishes. Grilling is not a bad idea here. Though this wine is breathtaking now, it will be at it’s best from 2012 – 2024 as the tannins begin to loosen their grip and allow the intense minerality and fruit to really explode.


2005 Domaine du Mas Blanc (Dr. Parcé) Cosprons Levants Collioure, Roussillon, France

Sunday, July 19th, 2009

Cosprons Levants Label Collioure is the AOC for dry wines that come from the same tiny corner of Mediterranean Roussillon as Banyuls. In fact, Dr. André Parcé, Mayor of Banyuls, research chemist, and groundbreaking winemaker/owner of Domaine du Mas Blanc, campaigned for making Collioure its own appellation in 1971. Banyuls is the AOC for the delightful, if strangely made, sweet fortified reds from Mourvedre, Syrah, Grenache and Counoise . . . think of Banyuls as Madeira’s good looking redneck cousin. For the same reason that the area is perfect for Banyuls: it can produce exceptional, and exceptionally powerful still wine from ripe Mourvedre, Syrah, Grenache and Counoise that manage to maintain their acid and tannins because of the cooling influence of the Mediterranean.  (click here to see a map of Roussillon)

Jean-Michel ParcéJean-Michel Parcé, Dr. Parcé’s son, has been responsible for the winemaking since 1977, and took over the entire estate upon his father’s passing in 1997. The estate consists of about 20 hectares of vines, planted on terraces of schist rising above the Mediterranean. Baked by dry sun in the summer, but mitigated by tramontane and mistral winds and the Mediterranean, the vines range in age from 30 to over 70 years old, and are farmed organically. The wines are bottled without fining or filtration.

View from ColliureThis wine represents a true field blend: the 2.5 hectare vineyard, which is 900 meters from the sea, is planted to 60% Syrah, 30% Mourvedre and 10% Grenache, which is harvest and handled together. Upon harvesting, the grapes are destemmed, and then trodden by foot. They macerate on the skins for 15 days in temperature controlled tanks, and are removed to 3 year old barrels, where the wine ages for 12 months, after the fermentation is complete. 950 cases were made.

This wine exhibits a nearly magical combination of fruit, mineral, spice, and heady, meaty aromas and Collioure Vineyard (Jean-Michel in background)flavors, but it is the texture that sets it apart: powerful and rich, but with a freshness and lightness that are rare even in lighter wines, and powerful, but incredibly smooth tannins that are the result of the food trodding (the souls of our feet have the perfect amount of cushion to extract the most from the skins without crushing the tiny, brittle pips). Try this with duck, roast lamb, any game bird. Drink now – 2018

photos on this page by Stuart B. Cooper

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