The Next Big Thing - July '09

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The wines shipped with The Next Big Thing July 2009 shipments

 

The Next Big Thing – July 2009

Monday, July 20th, 2009

We have a stunning set of wines for you this month. And they’re from all over. California, France and Spain. If you have all red, no California, but you’ll get a treat from Italy instead. The wines aren’t subtle this month, but they sure are tasty.

There is one major changes this month, which I ought to let you in on. The first is that I have gone back to including wine notes with each of the shipments. I found beautiful 100% post-consumer recycled paper, and I have been feeling like not having the notes in your shipment takes away some of the value. But don’t let the notes keep you from going to the website: there are pictures and links to more information and maps for each of the selections, a plethora of good stuff that you don’t want to miss. There is also an opportunity to comment on the wines and share your thoughts (though no one has done this yet. Your invitation code to register and leave comments on the site is “member01″.

Also, we have a very special tasting at Cellar46 on August 1st. I will be leading a tasting of the exceptional Burgundies from Lucien Le Moine. For more information, click here.  reservations are required, but it’s well worth it: the wines are stunning!

To see the selections for this month click here

If you have all red, click here

I hope you enjoy the wines.

Thank you,

Jake

2006 Walter Hansel Cuvée Alyce Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, California

Sunday, July 19th, 2009

Cuvée Alyce Label (wrong vintage)Walter Hansel was a lifelong wine enthusiast who had the vision to plant his estate’s original 250 vines in 1978. Today, Stephen, Walter’s son, has taken up where his father left off, pursuing his vision of producing world-class Burgundian-styled Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, all from the Russian River Valley.

Steve Hansel’s friend, famed winemaker Tom Rochioli, helped him in the early stages of his wine education by inviting him to work a couple of harvests at the Rochioli vineyards. Steve performed his first solo attempt in 1996 out of his garage.

Stephen HanselAt Walter Hansel Winery, the emphasis is on low yields (a miniscule range from 1.5 to 2.7 tons/acre) for greater complexity. Since all their grapes are grown on their own property, they can exercise strict control in the vineyards, which are planted with 5 Pinot and 5 Chardonnay clones. Each clone was chosen for its specific acid and flavor variations.

Hansel Family VineyardsAll of Steve’s fruit is hand-harvested, and it is re-examined again at the winery. Hansel makes an average of 9 total passes through each vineyard. Each pass is time consuming and expensive but Stephen feels the vine rewards him with more concentrated flavors.

The winery uses only natural yeast during fermentation. Fining and filtration are minimal. The Pinots are held on the lees without racking for 12 months. The Chardonnays are whole cluster fermented and gently pressed to extract the juice. The cooperage varies from year-to-year, cuvée-to-cuvée, but none of the wine is aged on entirely new oak. One- and two-year-old barrels are always employed.

Cuvée Alyce, named after Stephen’s mother, is made from a selection of the richest barrels in the winery, and as such, the vineyard blend varies from year to year. The 2006 is glorious: full of spunk and acid, but also full of beautifully ripe fruit ranging the entire Chardonnay spectrum, from yellow apple and citrus to tropical, to berries and stonefruit. There is a minerality here, as well, that adds to the monumentally exciting experience. Drink this with scallops on the grill, Salmon, roasted wild mushrooms, or foie gras torchon. Drink now – 2013.

2004 Cellers Pasanau Finca la Planeta Priorato, Tarragona, Spain

Sunday, July 19th, 2009

2004 La Planeta LabelThis is a phenomenal wine. The masterpiece of the very special Pasanau Germans estate, located in the highest altitude village of Priorat, la Morera de Montsant, the the la Planeta vineyard sits at 2400 feet elevation (the highest in Priorat) and abuts the sheer cliff of the Sierra de Montsant, which forms the boundary of Priorat. Because of the high altitude and especially stony soil – like the rest of Priorat, the soil here is decomposed slate (called Licorella) but because of the proximity of the cliffs, it wasn’t as decomposed as it is in some other places – Ricard Pasanau planted Cabernet Sauvignon in this vineyard back in 1986 when he planted it. The cool, high La Planeta Vineyardaltitude air, and the ridiculously infertile soil make the vineyard naturally low yielding: only 13,000 bottles are produced from the 2.9 ha vineyard. 10% Grenache from another vineyard in La Morera is used to soften the powerful, and austere Cabernet Sauvignon. (click here to see a map of Priorat)

It’s interesting to note that this wine is from 210 miles away from Collioure, and as such, makes a really interesting comparison to the 2005 Domaine du Mas Blanc Cosprons Levants in this same shipment.

Upon harvest, the grapes, tansported in 40 pound boxes to the winery, where they are lightly crushed and destemmed, and the must flows by gravity to temperature controlled tanks, where it goes through a cool, slow fermentation. The The Bodega Pasanauwine is aged in a half French oak, with the balance being made up of Central European and American barrels, for 14 months.

The Cabernet Sauvignon shows through here, and this is a structured, majestic, wine, that takes time to show it’s true character. Try this with beef, smoked pork (Mangalista, Berkshire, or other heirloom variety is best here) or other hearty dishes. Grilling is not a bad idea here. Though this wine is breathtaking now, it will be at it’s best from 2012 – 2024 as the tannins begin to loosen their grip and allow the intense minerality and fruit to really explode.


2005 Domaine du Mas Blanc (Dr. Parcé) Cosprons Levants Collioure, Roussillon, France

Sunday, July 19th, 2009

Cosprons Levants Label Collioure is the AOC for dry wines that come from the same tiny corner of Mediterranean Roussillon as Banyuls. In fact, Dr. André Parcé, Mayor of Banyuls, research chemist, and groundbreaking winemaker/owner of Domaine du Mas Blanc, campaigned for making Collioure its own appellation in 1971. Banyuls is the AOC for the delightful, if strangely made, sweet fortified reds from Mourvedre, Syrah, Grenache and Counoise . . . think of Banyuls as Madeira’s good looking redneck cousin. For the same reason that the area is perfect for Banyuls: it can produce exceptional, and exceptionally powerful still wine from ripe Mourvedre, Syrah, Grenache and Counoise that manage to maintain their acid and tannins because of the cooling influence of the Mediterranean.  (click here to see a map of Roussillon)

Jean-Michel ParcéJean-Michel Parcé, Dr. Parcé’s son, has been responsible for the winemaking since 1977, and took over the entire estate upon his father’s passing in 1997. The estate consists of about 20 hectares of vines, planted on terraces of schist rising above the Mediterranean. Baked by dry sun in the summer, but mitigated by tramontane and mistral winds and the Mediterranean, the vines range in age from 30 to over 70 years old, and are farmed organically. The wines are bottled without fining or filtration.

View from ColliureThis wine represents a true field blend: the 2.5 hectare vineyard, which is 900 meters from the sea, is planted to 60% Syrah, 30% Mourvedre and 10% Grenache, which is harvest and handled together. Upon harvesting, the grapes are destemmed, and then trodden by foot. They macerate on the skins for 15 days in temperature controlled tanks, and are removed to 3 year old barrels, where the wine ages for 12 months, after the fermentation is complete. 950 cases were made.

This wine exhibits a nearly magical combination of fruit, mineral, spice, and heady, meaty aromas and Collioure Vineyard (Jean-Michel in background)flavors, but it is the texture that sets it apart: powerful and rich, but with a freshness and lightness that are rare even in lighter wines, and powerful, but incredibly smooth tannins that are the result of the food trodding (the souls of our feet have the perfect amount of cushion to extract the most from the skins without crushing the tiny, brittle pips). Try this with duck, roast lamb, any game bird. Drink now – 2018

photos on this page by Stuart B. Cooper

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