Off the Beaten Path All Red - June '09

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Wines from the June 2009 Off the Beaten Path All Red Shipment

 

Extraordinary Wines From Off the Beaten Path – June 2009

Sunday, June 21st, 2009

What to say about this month’s shipment? I’d like to start out differently than usual, but then I’d have to say that the wines this month weren’t very good, and I’d be lying through my teeth! In fact, this month’s shipment is arguably the best yet.

This month brings wines from France, Portugal, Spain, Italy and Argentina for everyone. For the white and red folks, there is also a wine from Slovenia, for the red only folks, there is a killer Grenache from from Australia. Regardless of what you get, there’s lots of old vines, lots of low yields, and lots of very exciting and delicious wines.

Also, keep your eyes peeled on the website over the next couple of months, as we announce some great new events, and more than a couple of other fun things, including the opportunity to order additional wines from your shipment online.

That’s all for now!

Arriba, abajo, al centro, para adentro*

Jake

*a Spanish toast, literally translated: “it arrives, down, to the center, for the inside”

For details on this month’s shipment, click here

If you had ALL RED wine, click here

2007 Trevor Jones Boots Grenache, Barossa Valley, AU

Sunday, June 21st, 2009

Trevor Jones Boots LabelIf you didn’t realize that Grenache is one of my favorite grapes, you will by the time you’re finished with this month’s shipment. You’ll either agree with me, or cancel your subscription by the time you’re done!  I really didn’t mean to send you this much Grenache this month, but I accidentally put together a really cool comparison of VERY different styles of Grenache for you this week. This is the first of three, from wildly different places. The other two are the Argiolas Costera (Cannonau and Grenache are the same) and the Comerç Garnacha (Garnacha and Grenache are also the same).

Trevor Jones has been making wine in Autralia since 1977, and he makes the Trevor Jones wines at the Kellermeister Winery, where he has been involved in the winemaking since the 1980’s. His specialty is old vine Grenache and Shiraz from the Barossa Valley. This wine comes from 64 year old, head trained Grenache from the Silverfox Vineyard in Barossa Valley.

He calls this a light, easy drinking style of Grenache, yet the vines yield a miniscule two tons per acre, it is aged for 20 months in French & American Oak, and fermented in a submerged cap fermenter to increase extraction. Oh yeah, and it comes in at 14.5% alcohol . . . it’s definitely not Beaujolais, but compared to some of his Barossa compatriots, perhaps it’s a little more restrained!

Drink this with barbecue ribs, or better yet, pulled pork sandwiches. Try it with salmon that has a sweet glaze or sauce. Drink now – 2010.

2007 Argiolas Costera, Cannonau di Sardegna, IT

Sunday, June 21st, 2009

Argiolas Costera BottleYou’ve got to have some respect for a winery who’s website opens with the statement: Our history began in 1918, when Francesco Argiolas started from scratch and planted the first vineyard with the assistance of some prisoners of war. That’s just not something we brag about here in the United States!

The real reason that I love Argiolas is, of course, is that the wines are great. Over the years, Antonio Argiolas, along with his sons Guiseppe and Franco have grown Argiolas to encompass five estates on the southern end of the Italian island of Sardegna, each with a specatacular vineyard, and some of its own facilities. In addition to purchasing great vineyards (and olive groves, because olive oil is an important part of Antonio, Franco, Guiseppe and the familythe family’s business as well), they hired Giacomo Tachis, one of Italy’s greatest eonologists to work alongside their own winemaker Mariano Murro to ensure that they were getting the most out of the vineyards.

The Island of Sardinia has been populated for at least 150,000 years, and it’s recent history is one of war and conquest with various mainland neighbors, most recently the Romans, many of who’s languages and customs stuck, then the Spanish, who likely brought with them the Garnacha (Grenache) grape, which is transformed, in name only, to Cannonau in Sardinia. After the Spanish, the island was conquered by the Sicilians, who retained control until the Italian unification.

This wine is made from 92% Cannonau (Garnacha), with the balance made up of Carignano (Carignan) and Bovale Sardo. The wine is aged in large wooden tanks. Try it with hearty fish stews, grilled pork, and olives. Drink now – 2011.

Argiolas Vineyard near Serdiana

2006 Aussières Rouge, VdP d’Oc, Languedoc, FR

Sunday, June 21st, 2009

Aussieres LabelChâteau de Aussières, located in Corbières, has been making wine since Roman times. Following the fall of the empire, it remained in the hands of the Catholic Church until the French revolution, and was afterwards purchased at auction by Count Daru, minister and administrator of the private estates of Napolean Bonaparte. The estate continued to grow until the general decline of the market for Languedoc wines in the 1950’s. In 1999 The Domaines des Barons de Lafite Rothschild (owner of the Bordeaux 1st Growth Château Lafite-Rothschild). Under Rothschild ownership, the vineyards and winery have been undergoing constant rehabilition and renovation, and the quality of the wines, with the best winemakers in the world available to consult, has gotten extremely good.

A blend of traditional and non-traditional varieties, Cabernet 40%, Grenache 30%, Syrah 20%, Merlot 10%, the wine is Aussieres Vineyardsaged 10% in new barrique, and 90% in vats, for eight months, then blended and bottles. Because of the Cabernet and Merlot, this can’t be a Corbières wine, and must be labeled as Vin de Pays.

The wine is medium-bodied, with a pleasant underpinning of tannins and acidity, that make the fruit seem more prominent against the spicy, smoky background. It’s easy to tell that there is really experienced winemaking and grape growing at play here. Try this with roast lamb, beets and celery root, or hamburgers. Though it can’t take anything really spicy, this wine can stand up to a mild dose of spice. Drink now – 2011

2007 Comerç Garnacha, Cariñena, SP

Sunday, June 21st, 2009

The Cariñena vineyards have been around for a long time. The Romans established the town of Carae in 500 BC in an area where the locals had been making and enjoying a drink of wine mixed with mead since the 3rd century BC. Vineyards flourished under the monasteries protection in medieval times. In the 16th Old vine in Carinenacentury they occupied 50% of Zaragoza province. The wines were famed and a wine fountain was set up for visit of Philip II. Growing controls also began early, in 1694, when growers were forbidden to plant new vineyards.

The modern history of the area began in 1932, when the area, southwest of Zaragosa, and southeast of what would become the Ribera del Duero DO, became the province of Aragon’s first, and one of Spain’s first DO’s (Denomenación de Origen). The soil is made up of reddish brown limestone subsoil over calcium carbonate and slate, providing necessary water retention in the arid climate, and acidity for the grapes (limestone is basic, and forces the vines to react with acidic grapes). The temperature is extreme, ranging from 100° F to 46°, often exacerbated by high winds in the winter, and the landscape is beautiful in an empty, High Plains Drifter, sort of way. The majority of the wine is red or rosé made from Garnacha, with a little bit of the region’s namesake Cariñena thrown in for structure.

Modern winemaking techniques are the rule here, with temperature controlled fermentation, and occasionally even partial carbonic maceration, helping to retain the intense fruit character of the grapes. This is one of many places in Spain that is just full of old-vine Garnacha, and because of this, full of potential. The vines for this wine are a minimum of 40 years old, and that, combined with the harsh environment, makes for a wine with tons of character.

Try this wine with white fish (roasted or grilled), grilled chicken, or charcuterie. Drink now – 2010.

2005 Quinta de Chocapalha, Estramadura, PT

Saturday, June 20th, 2009

Quinta de ChocapalhaThe sommelier community is really excited about Portuguese wines right now, and it’s wines like this one that provide the justification for their excitement. This is a super rich wine, with tons of wild fruit and a beguiling structure, just enough tannin to make you stand up and take notice, but not so much as to get in the way of a reasonable meal, or of drinking a lot of the wine.

Quinta de Chocapalha is an historic estate located in Estremadura, northeast of Lisbon. Situated in the surroundings of Aldeia Galega the property belonged to Constantino O’Neil since the beginning of the 19th century. Later he endowed it to Diogo Duff, a distinguished Scottish noble held in high estimation by the King D. João VI who distinguished him with the insignia “Torre e Espada” (Tower & Sword). The current owners, Alice and Paulo Tavarez da Silva purchased the property from Diogo Duff’s descendents in 1980.

Sandra Tavarez da Silva, their daughter, who is best known as the winemaker for the exceptional new wave wines of Cristiano Van Zeller who famously gave up his stake in Quinta de Noval to make wine at Quinta do Vale Dona Maria and Quinta do Vale do Mina.

This wine is a blend of 30% Touriga Nacional, 40% Tinta Roriz, 25% Castelão and 5% Alicante Bouschet. The wines are fermented in lagares (shallow rectangular cement vats designed to allow wines to be trod by foot) and trod with a robot foot (this device was invented by the Symington family to save labor in port production while getting the same intense extraction without breaking seeds that foot-trodding creates). The wine was aged for 16 months in second and third fill French oak. 3800 cases were produced.

This is a hearty wine, designed for big meaty dishes, like grilled flank steak, or rabbit with garlic & olives. It’s also great with bacalhau (salted, dried cod). Drink it now – 2014.

2008 Budini Malbec, Mendoza, AR

Saturday, June 20th, 2009

Budini Malbec LabelSome wines are special because they are made with obsessive care and attention to detail. Other wines are just darned-tasty. Though Budini Malbec is definitely a well-made wine, I have to put it in the darned-tasty category. This is proof once again that Argentina leads the world in the production of delicious wines at reasonable prices.

Budini is named after the wild Pampas cat of Argentina (Leopardus pajeros budini), a beautifully striped, nocturnal predatory cat that lives off of Guinea pigs, ground birds and chickens. Besides making a pretty label, I can’t come up with a good reason for this, except that marketing experts say that wines with animals on the labels sell 15% more than wines without.

The wine comes from the high-altitude (average of 3630 ft) vineyards of the Agrela and Consulta sub-regions of Mendoza in Argentina. The vines are acceptably old, with an average age of 25 years. And the winery makes an moderate 10,000 cases of this Malbec. (for comparison purposes, Beringer made 11,000,000 cases of white Zinfandel in a single vintage once). The wine spends 9 months in a combination of French & American oak barrels before being released on the market.

But it’s not the numbers that makes this wine taste good: it simply tastes good, awfully good, and sometimes that is all there is to it. It’s super fruity, a little oaky, and has enough structure not to be boring, yet there aren’t enough tannins or acidity to get in the way of slurping down a bunch of it. Try it with just about anything off the grill, or as an aperitif, or a night-cap, or for lunch, or breakfast. Drink now – 2010.

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