Off The Beaten Path - June '09

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Wines from the June 2009 Extraordinary Wines from Off the Beaten Path Shipment

 

Extraordinary Wines From Off the Beaten Path – June 2009

Sunday, June 21st, 2009

What to say about this month’s shipment? I’d like to start out differently than usual, but then I’d have to say that the wines this month weren’t very good, and I’d be lying through my teeth! In fact, this month’s shipment is arguably the best yet.

This month brings wines from France, Portugal, Spain, Italy and Argentina for everyone. For the white and red folks, there is also a wine from Slovenia, for the red only folks, there is a killer Grenache from from Australia. Regardless of what you get, there’s lots of old vines, lots of low yields, and lots of very exciting and delicious wines.

Also, keep your eyes peeled on the website over the next couple of months, as we announce some great new events, and more than a couple of other fun things, including the opportunity to order additional wines from your shipment online.

That’s all for now!

Arriba, abajo, al centro, para adentro*

Jake

*a Spanish toast, literally translated: “it arrives, down, to the center, for the inside”

For details on this month’s shipment, click here

If you had ALL RED wine, click here

2007 Quattro Mani [toh-kai], Brda, Slovenia

Sunday, June 21st, 2009

Quattro Mani LabelAleš Kristancic, the iconic maker of the exceptional, and somewhat strange, wines his family’s estate, Movia, in Brda, Slovenia, was asked by his U.S. importer, Domaine Select, to make an “entry level” white that would be an easy introduction to Slovenian Ales Kristancicwine for their customers. The wine would be under their Quattro Mani label, but made from Movia grapes and at the Movia winery. The results are this delightful, and altogether satisfying light, aromatic white.

Movia has been producing wines since 1700, and the Kristancic family purchased it around 1820. The vineyards lie along thin, and very desirable strip of vineyard land that seperates Collio in Italy from Slovenia. It has been tradition here, one that is upheld in EU law, that many of the vineyards may choose whether to call themselves Italian or Slovenian based on where the wine was made, rather than what side of the very unclear border the vineyards lie in. In addition to the great history of farming and winemaking, the Kristancic family was an early adopter of Biodynamic viticulture and winemaking principles, and is one of the longest-standing completely biodynamic producers in the world.

Movia VineyardsThe grape chosen for this wine was Tocai (the spelling on the label is a phonetic one), the most commonly planted variety in Collio, and one that is capable of producing subtle wines of very high quality if it is cared for properly, and handled gently. It shouldn’t be confused with Tokaj (a type of wine) from Hungary, or Tokay (an old French name for Pinot Gris that is no longer legal). Grapes for this wine come entirely from Movia’s Exto Gredic vineyard, and the wine is fermented in large vats, then bottled immediately to preserve its delicacy. After bottling, it was aged for six months before release to let the flavors integrate and settle. 3,000 cases were made.

This is a wine that sings with light food, think sole, steamed vegetables, maybe even tempura, or as a great aperitif. Drink Now – Dec 2009.

2007 Domaine de Triennes Ste. Fleur Viognier, VdP du Var, Provence, FR

Sunday, June 21st, 2009

Sainte Fleur LabelDomaine de Triennes, though relatively new, has serious pedigree. In the 1980’s to of Burgundy’s greats, Jacques Seysses, founder of Domaine Dujac and Aubert de Villaine, Co-owner of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, along with their mutual friend Michel Marcoux, decided that the Var, in Provence, had enormous potential, and as it was prohibitively expensive to purchase new vineyard in Burgundy at the time, set out looking for a property.

In 1989, they found one. They didn’t purchase it because it was producing good wine (in fact, the wines were horrible), or because it had well-planted vineyards, or even a nice winery. The property was on a hillside, 400 meters above the valley floor where most vineyards in the area were planted in overly fertile soil, and had thin, clay-limestone soil that reminded them in places of a Burgundian vineyard, and in places of St. Emilion. The vineyard had a perfect southern aspect, and because of it’s altitude and proximity to the small mountain ranges of Mts Aurelian and St. Baumes, it had a giant diurnal (day to night) temperature shift of as much as 50 degrees in the height of the summer that would allow them to prolong the growing season, and produce grapes of greater richness and complexity. Jacques explains their move thussly:

“I started thinking of buying a vineyard outside of Burgundy when vineyard prices soared in the mid-eighties, making it almost impossible to operate with a return on one’s investment. I was interested in going to an area where the benchmark had yet to be set, and where I could experiment with other grape varietals.”

The results have been phenomenal, and so far, phenomenally priced. This wine, from 100% Viognier, from a 13.5 ha plot that is a combination of 35 year old vines and 5-6 year old vines that yields a shockingly low 20-25 hl/ha, never sees oak, and has an explosive aromatic quality that is surprisingly not overwhelming. Though the wine is rich, it maintains a delicacy through mineral character and acidity that is really exceptional, and makes it a truly memorable wine. About 450 cases are made.

The wine is named after the Roman festival Triennes, held every three years, to honor Bacchus. Though the name also represents the three partners.

Try it with seared scallops, buttermilk fried chicken, and semi-soft cheeses. Drink now – 2011.

2008 Cottanera Barbazzale, Sicilia, IT

Sunday, June 21st, 2009

Cottanera BarbazzaleSicily has always been a challenge for all but the hardest core lovers of Italian wines. Wine production on the island is prolific, but it often seems that wine is produced merely for the sake of producing wine, rather than for the sake of making anything that anyone would want to drink. There are of course a few exceptions, wines that point to the possibility of making really delicious wines in Vineyard on Mt. EtnaSicily, and one has to think that there is some reason, besides that the locals like to drink, that Sicily has thousands of years of winemaking history.

Though Cottanera isn’t a winery that I was familiar with before a month or so ago, this is obviously one of those exceptions. The wines, particularly this one, are delicious. Their advantage, besides what appears to be enormous investment in the winery, is a superior vineyard, located on volcanic soils of the slopes of Mt. Etna, approximately 730m above sea level. The volcanic soils are rich in mineral salts, which encourage acidity and minerality in the grapes, while the altitude tempers the intense heat of Sicily by providing for very cool nights, again capturing acidity, and intensity of fruit.

Cottanera FamilyFrancesco Cambria, who bought the property and started Cottanera in the 1960’s, has passed the directorship to his sons, Guglielmo and Enzo, who’s children, Mariangela, Francesco and Emanuele also take an active role in the operations.  The winemaker is Lorenzo Landi.

This wine is made from 100% Insolia, a grape thought to be native to Sicily, and found almost nowhere else (it occasionally shows up in Tuscany as Ansonica). I have to admit that I don’t have enough experience to say whether this wine is typical of the grape, but for the sake of good drinking, I hope it is: it is rich, but with exceptionally fine acidity, loads of lime, stonefruit, flowers, and minerally delights. I expect that beyond the high temperatures of the Island, some of the richness of this wine comes from the 6 months the wine spent on it lees in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks.

Try it with Salmon, or duck, or a pork roast. Or just with hard, salty, pungent cheese like Sicilian Canestrato. Drink now – 2010.

2007 Comerç Garnacha, Cariñena, SP

Sunday, June 21st, 2009

The Cariñena vineyards have been around for a long time. The Romans established the town of Carae in 500 BC in an area where the locals had been making and enjoying a drink of wine mixed with mead since the 3rd century BC. Vineyards flourished under the monasteries protection in medieval times. In the 16th Old vine in Carinenacentury they occupied 50% of Zaragoza province. The wines were famed and a wine fountain was set up for visit of Philip II. Growing controls also began early, in 1694, when growers were forbidden to plant new vineyards.

The modern history of the area began in 1932, when the area, southwest of Zaragosa, and southeast of what would become the Ribera del Duero DO, became the province of Aragon’s first, and one of Spain’s first DO’s (Denomenación de Origen). The soil is made up of reddish brown limestone subsoil over calcium carbonate and slate, providing necessary water retention in the arid climate, and acidity for the grapes (limestone is basic, and forces the vines to react with acidic grapes). The temperature is extreme, ranging from 100° F to 46°, often exacerbated by high winds in the winter, and the landscape is beautiful in an empty, High Plains Drifter, sort of way. The majority of the wine is red or rosé made from Garnacha, with a little bit of the region’s namesake Cariñena thrown in for structure.

Modern winemaking techniques are the rule here, with temperature controlled fermentation, and occasionally even partial carbonic maceration, helping to retain the intense fruit character of the grapes. This is one of many places in Spain that is just full of old-vine Garnacha, and because of this, full of potential. The vines for this wine are a minimum of 40 years old, and that, combined with the harsh environment, makes for a wine with tons of character.

Try this wine with white fish (roasted or grilled), grilled chicken, or charcuterie. Drink now – 2010.

2005 Quinta de Chocapalha, Estramadura, PT

Saturday, June 20th, 2009

Quinta de ChocapalhaThe sommelier community is really excited about Portuguese wines right now, and it’s wines like this one that provide the justification for their excitement. This is a super rich wine, with tons of wild fruit and a beguiling structure, just enough tannin to make you stand up and take notice, but not so much as to get in the way of a reasonable meal, or of drinking a lot of the wine.

Quinta de Chocapalha is an historic estate located in Estremadura, northeast of Lisbon. Situated in the surroundings of Aldeia Galega the property belonged to Constantino O’Neil since the beginning of the 19th century. Later he endowed it to Diogo Duff, a distinguished Scottish noble held in high estimation by the King D. João VI who distinguished him with the insignia “Torre e Espada” (Tower & Sword). The current owners, Alice and Paulo Tavarez da Silva purchased the property from Diogo Duff’s descendents in 1980.

Sandra Tavarez da Silva, their daughter, who is best known as the winemaker for the exceptional new wave wines of Cristiano Van Zeller who famously gave up his stake in Quinta de Noval to make wine at Quinta do Vale Dona Maria and Quinta do Vale do Mina.

This wine is a blend of 30% Touriga Nacional, 40% Tinta Roriz, 25% Castelão and 5% Alicante Bouschet. The wines are fermented in lagares (shallow rectangular cement vats designed to allow wines to be trod by foot) and trod with a robot foot (this device was invented by the Symington family to save labor in port production while getting the same intense extraction without breaking seeds that foot-trodding creates). The wine was aged for 16 months in second and third fill French oak. 3800 cases were produced.

This is a hearty wine, designed for big meaty dishes, like grilled flank steak, or rabbit with garlic & olives. It’s also great with bacalhau (salted, dried cod). Drink it now – 2014.

2008 Budini Malbec, Mendoza, AR

Saturday, June 20th, 2009

Budini Malbec LabelSome wines are special because they are made with obsessive care and attention to detail. Other wines are just darned-tasty. Though Budini Malbec is definitely a well-made wine, I have to put it in the darned-tasty category. This is proof once again that Argentina leads the world in the production of delicious wines at reasonable prices.

Budini is named after the wild Pampas cat of Argentina (Leopardus pajeros budini), a beautifully striped, nocturnal predatory cat that lives off of Guinea pigs, ground birds and chickens. Besides making a pretty label, I can’t come up with a good reason for this, except that marketing experts say that wines with animals on the labels sell 15% more than wines without.

The wine comes from the high-altitude (average of 3630 ft) vineyards of the Agrela and Consulta sub-regions of Mendoza in Argentina. The vines are acceptably old, with an average age of 25 years. And the winery makes an moderate 10,000 cases of this Malbec. (for comparison purposes, Beringer made 11,000,000 cases of white Zinfandel in a single vintage once). The wine spends 9 months in a combination of French & American oak barrels before being released on the market.

But it’s not the numbers that makes this wine taste good: it simply tastes good, awfully good, and sometimes that is all there is to it. It’s super fruity, a little oaky, and has enough structure not to be boring, yet there aren’t enough tannins or acidity to get in the way of slurping down a bunch of it. Try it with just about anything off the grill, or as an aperitif, or a night-cap, or for lunch, or breakfast. Drink now – 2010.

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