The Next Big Thing - June '09

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The wines from The Next Big Thing, June 2009

 

The Next Big Thing – June 2009

Saturday, June 20th, 2009

Welcome to your June wine club shipment! I hope you’re ready for some great wine. We begin the journey in the seat of all things delicious and winey: France.  Wine number one is a beautiful Châteauneuf-du-Pape from an old producer that just got REALLY good. Consider it the first installment in a two-part Grenache comparison that is impressive for the the difference and deliciousness of the wines. The second installment is from only a few miles away in Priorat, Spain, made by a group of outlaw winemakers (everything tastes better when you’re breakin’ the law!)

We finish up in Italy. For the white drinkers out there, we head to Piedmont, for a Chardonnay that renews my faith in the grape, for the red drinkers, to Tuscany for the first vintage of the top wine of joint project between a First Growth Bordeaux Château and an excellent Chianti Producer.

Also, keep your eyes peeled on the website over the next couple of months, as we announce some great new events, and more than a couple of other fun things, including the opportunity to order additional wines from your shipment online.

That’s all for now!

Arriba, abajo, al centro, para adentro*

Jake

*a Spanish toast, literally translated: “it arrives, down, to the center, for the inside”

For The Next Big Thing, click here to see the wine descriptions

For The Next Big Thing All Red, click here to see the wine descriptions

2005 Poderi Aldo Conterno Bussiador Chardonnay, Langhe

Saturday, June 20th, 2009

Bussiador LabelThat Poderi Aldo Conterno is one of the greatest producers of Barolo is undisputed, and his Granbussia Reserva is at the top of many Barolo Lovers’ lists of all time favorite wines: but how many of us have tried the Chardonnay, made from the tiny amount of Chardonnay in Montforte d’Alba vineyards amongst the Nebbiolo vines in Barolo? I have rarely seen this very limited (300 case) bottling, but tried it, by some cosmic coincidence, twice last month. Both times it blew my mind.

Since the 19th Century, five generations of the Conterno family has been making wine in Barolo. In the 1950’s, Aldo Conterno moved to California to enter into the wine business with the help of an uncle living there, but returned after five years, to help is brother Giovanni run the family winemaking operation. Aldo’s experience in California let him to begin his own venture, Poderi Aldo Conterno in 1969, and he is now succeeded by the next generation in the operation of the farm and winery (Franco, Giacomo and Stefano).

RomirascoThe Chardonnay from the area has a stunning natural acidity, and because of this, it stands up well to a very intense winemaking regime. After sorting in the vineyard, fermentation is begun in temperature-controlled stainless steel, but as soon as it begins, the wines are transferred to new French oak barriques, where it remains during a cool, slow fermentation. After fermentation, the wines are racked and returned to new oak for twelve months. The wine then rests in the bottle for one year before release.

This is big wine, but with amazing acidity, and loads of non-fruit/oak notes that bring waves of nuance and complexity.  Traditional Chardonnay pairings, like lobster, scallops and anything with truffles or wild mushrooms will do well here, but just for fun, try it with grilled steak that has nothing but garlic, herbs and a little salt on it. In truth, salt is definitely the friend of this wine, so this is a good one to use with most foods that you finish with fancy salts. Drink 2010 – 2015 or maybe longer.

Map of the Langhe

2001 Vinos Sin-Ley G6 (Garnacha), Priorat

Saturday, June 20th, 2009

G6 LabelVinos Sin-Ley means “wines without laws” and represents a joint venture between a group of young Spanish winemakers who wanted to recognize that there was amazing innovation going on in the Spanish wine industry in terms of viticulture, winemaking technique and creative expansion and exploration of traditional wine areas that wasn’t necessarily recognized by the rigorous, and for these vigneron at least, slow-moving Spanish wine laws.

Originally created by Emili Esteve, who makes this wine, and Manuel Martinez in 1999, the Vinos Sin-Ley winemakers, now number more than eight.  They meet twice per year to discuss new projects that are of mutual interest, then return to their respective wineries, where they create small lots of wine for Vinos Sin-Ley, using their own equipment and in their own style.

Emili EstevThis wine, made by Emili Esteve , who makes wines for a number of top properties in Catalunya, including the famed Francesca Vicent Robert is made from very old (a Manuel Martinez with 100 year old Grenache Vinegood portion are 100+ years old) Garnacha from Priorato.  It is aged for twelve months in French Oak, and only 500 cases were made.  300 of those were sold in Europe, leaving 200 for the U.S.

This wine represents just about everything that I love about Priorato, great old Garnacha vines, coupled with state of the art winemaking, and lots of love.  The result is, again, dark purple, with lots of flowers, spice and earth to match up with the focused blackberry and cherry fruit.  This provides a great comparison with the Charbonnière, also from this shipment, birthed less than 200 miles away, and made with a majority of the same grape, also from old vines, yet the wines are amazingly different from one another, and both amazing to drink. Try this with pork (especially Mangalista or Berkshire) chops, anything containing bacon, or dishes containing porcini (cepes, king bolete) mushrooms.  Drink now – 2018 +

2004 Domaine de la Charbonnière Cuvée Vieilles Vignes Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Saturday, June 20th, 2009

Charbonnieres VV labelThis is one of those wines that wasn’t really on my radar until a trade tasting last month.  I love Châteaneuf-du-Pape, but am the first to admit that the difference between the merely good producers (most of them) and the best producers is enormous.  If this 2004 is any indication, Michel Maret has made the leap from the sea of good Châteauneufs to the rarified ether of the top few.  His website, in classic French understatement, hints at the transformation: “Michel took over the family estate. As a passionate winemaker, he brings to Domaine de la Charbonnière, its rebirth.”

The estate was purchased in 1912 by Eugène Maret (Michel’s grandfather) as a gift to his wife, who was the daughter of a winemaker from Châteauneuf.  Fernand Maret (Michel’s Father) inherited part of the estate, and expanded it, bringing it to it’s current size of 17 ½ ha of vineyards in the Brusquíeres Plateu, la Crau, Mourre des Perdrix, and immediately surrounding the winery.  (Click here for a great map of the vineyards of Châteauneuf-du-Pape).  Fernand also added 4 ha of land on Haute Garrigues in Vacqueyras.  The wines are fermented in stainless steel, big oak casks (foudre) and barriques, depending on the grape and the vintage, and are aged in a combination of large and small oak, most of which  are older.

This wine is about 70% Grenache and 30% Mourvèdre, with the Grenache vines ranging in age between 80 and 100 years old, and the Mourvedre a minimum of 45 years old.  Grenache comes from a combination of La Crau and the vineyards surrounding the winery, and Mourvèdre comes from the vineyards surrounding the winery.  A relatively standard winemaking regime of 100% destemmed/crushed grapes, punch-downs every two days and pumping over every day, followed by malo-lactic in 10% new oak barrique, with the rest in large oak vats yields an amazingly elegant wine.

Super-precise red fruit, spice, garrigue, violet, leather layer the palate without ever being overwhelming.  This is a full-bodied wine that acts like delicate flower . . . yum!  Try it with really good spring lamb (not too gamy),  roast poultry, hard cheese, and fatty white fish of all sorts.   Drink now – 2020.

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