Off the Beaten Path All Red March '09

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Wine from the All Red Version of the Extraordinary Wines from off the Beaten Path Shipment

 

2006 Domaine Charvin à Côté VdP de la Principauté d’Orange, France

Thursday, March 19th, 2009

a-cote-smallGerard Charvin and his son, Laurent, represent the quintessence of the small domaine/father and son team.  Together they old-vine-grenache-domaine-charvincombine the experience and patience of Gerard with the wine making brilliance of Laurent, now regarded as one of the top wine-makers in the appellation.  Robert Parker said of the wines of Domaine Charvin that “they may indeed produce the Richebourg of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.”

But what to do with some vineyards just north of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape Appellation that are planted to Merlot, which, although fairly common in this area of the Rhône is not permitted in any of the appellation wines?  After the movie Sideways came out, with its central joke revolving around the protagonists’ dislike of Merlot, Gerard decided to name it à Côté, which means, sideways in French.   That the wine is delicious is an added bonus.

Only 8,000 bottles of this wine were made (that’s about 650 cases for those of you counting). This wine is made from about 80% Merlot, and 20% Grenache.  The Merlot was planted in 1999, and the Grenache was planted partly in 1955 and partly in 1973.  It’s a wine to enjoy, young, fruity and vivacious.  Try with fish, poutry (herb roasted chicken), cheese and charcuterie.  Drink now – 2011.

2007 Mills Reef Reserve Merlot/Malbec Gimblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand

Thursday, March 19th, 2009

merlot-malbec-07When most of us think about wine from New Zealand, we think about the zingy Sauvignon Blancs from Marlborough or the Pinot Noirs from Martinborough or Central Otago, but an small area called Gimblett Gravels, in Hawkes Bay on New Zealand’s North Island, produces amazing Bordeaux Varieties.    The weather hear is warm, and the maritime influence that plays such an important role in most of the rest of New Zealand is mitigated by mountains.  There is also a gravelly soil (hence the name) that retains daytime heat and helps with drainage, further encouraging ripe wines.  See the map below for a better idea of where Hawke’s Bay, and Mills Reef,  lie in relation to the rest of New Zealand.  Click on this link to see a map of  Hawkes Bay with Mills Reef Vineyards marked

Mills Reef is a family owned winery (there is also a restaurant) and father Paddy, and son Tim Preston are the primary winemakers.  They receive frequent awards, and Mills Reef is recognized as one of the premier producers of Gimblet Gravels wines.

Mills Reef Reserve Merlot Malbec consists of 55% Merlot and 45% Malbec, aged for 7 months in a combination of new and one year old oak that is both French and American.  Rich dark fruit, savory spices, and hints of olive and oak contribute to a complex, smooth wine with great balance and character.  Try this with roasted chicken, braised beef, flank steak, and roasted pepper dishes.  Drink now – 2012

new-zealan-map-from-mills-reef

2004 Martin Berdugo Ribera del Duero Crianza

Thursday, March 19th, 2009

berdugo-crianzaRibera Del Duero, the home of Spain’s famous Vega Sicilia Winery, has only recently become a reliable wine region.  But even though it’s fame is recent, the wines from Ribera del Duero aren’t cheap, and as such, the remote, and inhospitable Spanish wine region has remained less than martin-berdugo-rainbowwell-known in the US.  The wines are made from mostly Tinto Fino, also called Tinto del Pais, which is a local variant of the Tempranillo grape that has become especially suited to Ribera del Duero’s harsh climate.

Bodegas Martín Berdugo is a  family-owned winery that is committed to making modern-styled, reasonably priced wines.  They are also very good at it.  The winery is located near Aranda del Deuro, on the banks of the Arandilla river.  From 87 hectares of vines, the winery makes exceptional 100% Tempranillo Ribera del Dueros (the appellation allows Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec as well).

This wine is powerful and oaky, showing sweet red plum fruit framed by cocao, spice and coconut from American Oak and powerful tannins.  Try it with lamb, barbecue beef ribs, blue cheese, and just about anything hearty.  Drink now – 2014

2004 Lavradores dei Feitoria Tres Bagos Douro, Portugal

Thursday, March 19th, 2009

tres-bagos-tinto-04-bottleThe Douro in Portugal is where the vineyards from which Port is produced lie.  The vineyards, called quintas, are carved out of stone on the intimidatingly steep slopes of mountains on either side of the Douro River (the Duero in Spain).  Traditionally (though this is changing rapidly), the large port houses haven’t owned their vineyards, and as a result, there are hundreds of small growers producing grapes.  Over the last fifteen years, worldwide sales of Port have been dropping rapidly, and though these small vineyard owners have always made some still wines for local consumption, many have been trying with mixed success to break into the market for still wines.  The challenges are that many of even the best quintas don’t have their own winemaking equipment, and don’t have the know how to make polished, modern wines for the export market.

in 2000, Dirk Niepoort, of Niepoort, one of the best port shippers, brought together fifteen of the best young quinta owners, and instead of selling off their grapes to the local coop, they began making wine in a state of the art facility, with an experienced technical team.   The project was called Lavradores dei Feitoria, and the results have been nothing short of impressive.  Lavradores means growers in Portugese.  Tres Bagos refers to the three subregions of the Douro Valley, Baixo Corgo, Cima Corgo, and Douro Superior.  There is a sort of abstract map of the quintas involved below, showing where they are in relation to the Douro River.

abstract-map-of-freitoria-vineyards

Tres Bagos Tinto is made up of 52% Touriga Nacional, 16.5% Touriga Franca, 14% Tinta Barroca, 13.5% Tinta Roriz (a.k.a. Tempranillo) and 4% a mixture of other grape varieties.    It is a medium-full bodied wine, with a dark violet color, moderate oak influence, and lots of raspberry, cherry and mint characters.  The long, peppery finish, and powerful minerality set this aside as wine of breed.  Think about serving with cheeseburgers, poultry, and hard aged cheeses.  Drink now – 2012.

2007 Domaine de Couran Marselan VdP de Coteaux de l’Ardèche

Thursday, March 19th, 2009

marselan-label

The Village of St. Marcel d’Ardèche, home to Domaine de Couron,  lies along the boundary at which Provence is said to begin.  35 miles northwest of Avignon, lying on the limestone plateau that seperates the northern Rhône from the southern Rhône, at St. Marcel the climate changes from continental to Mediterannean, the skies turn blue, and the light becomes limpid.  Olive trees begin to dot the landscape, and the grapes switch from the near monoculture of Syrah in the North, to the patchwork of varieties that makes the southern Rhône valley such an exciting wine region.

St. Marcel in general, and Domaine de Couron in particular, have been planted to grape vines since Roman times.  The vineyards of the domaine were owned by the family of a Roman soldier until the dissolution of the Roman Empire in the area (around 476 AD) after which they passed to the church, and were given as tribute to soldiers returning to the crusades.  Since then the vineyards have passed through many hands.  The Domaine is currently owned by Jean-Luc and Marie-Lise Dorthe.

Marselan is grape that was invented rather than discovered.  It is a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache that was developed sometime around 1961.  Though it was thought to be a natural for Languedoc Vineyards, the most interesting versions, a number of which I really like, come form this limestone-rich area in the Southern Rhône.  At it’s best, as in this case, the wine is vibrantly piquant, with smoky blackberry and black cherry fruit, and lots of spunk.   For food, this is a great wine for charcuterie, olives, roast lamb, or just about anything else that a Cabernet or Grenache would go with.  Drink it from now – 2011.

2006 Vinos Sin-Ley GRA1 (Puntalta) Graciano Rioja Alevesa

Thursday, March 19th, 2009

gra1Vinos Sin-Ley is a very cool project.  The literal translation is “Wines Without Law.” Vinos Sin-Ley’s two goals are to create new wines: that are focused on expressing their respective grapes and terroirs; while also being accessible to consumers as a great value. The concept is driven by creative innovations utilizing non-conventional methods of harvesting, fermenting, blending and ageing. The results are wines with fresh fruit driven flavors, distinct from other wines in the past. Vinos Sin-Ley is composed of a group of resourceful young winemakers from all across Spain. Vinos Sin-Ley shares a common philosophy driven by experimentation and innovative insight to make value oriented, well crafted wines. They meet twice a year to set in place new projects of mutual interest and to share their collective knowledge of the winemaking techniques to be implemented.

The importer has a feature on the website that I have never seen before, there are audio files describing each of the wines.  I’m not sure how I feel about them, but in the interest of passing the information on to you, here is a link to the .wav file.

This wine is called GRA1 because it is the first 100% Graciano made for Vinos Sin-Ley.  Graciano is the least well known of the quartet of traditional Rioja Grapes, the others being Tempranillo, Garnacha and Mazuelo (called Carignan in France).  Graciano is almost extinct because it is a finicky variety that is hard to grow, and if not fully ripe, it can create tannic monstrosities.  But when treated well, as it is here, it is one of the most characterful grapes in the bunch, and deserves its own place in the sun (or, after its in the bottle, out of the sun).  This, needless to say is a great example.

Emilio Aguillo, who makes this wine for Vinos Sin-Ley, is the proprietor and winemaker for Bodegas Solar de Alaya in the town of Guardia in Rioja Alevesa.  The Graciano comes from his own ten acres of Graciano vineyards.  Only 300 cases of this wine are made.

The wine is powerful and savory, with great, elegant tannins, deep color, impressive aromatics and a long finish.  Think about ham, lamb, pork roasts, and anything with blue cheese to pair with it.  This wine will age nobly, though it is tasting wonderfully right now.  Drink now – 2014.

Extraordinary Wines from Off the Beaten Path – March 2009

Thursday, March 19th, 2009

As usual, we have lots of wild fun this month.  Wines from Austria, France, Italy, Portugal and Spain or if you get all reds switch Austria and Italy for another Spain and New Zealand.    Proving once again that it’s well worth exploring the outer reaches of the wine world.

To see the descriptions of the entire selection of wines you received this month, follow the approriate link below.

Extraordinary Wines from Off the Beaten Path, click here

Extraordinary Wines from Off the Beaten Path all red, click here

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