March '09
...now browsing by category
Wines Shipped with the March 2009 Extraordinary Wine Club Shipments
Friday, March 20th, 2009
This is a good month for bubbles. We have two Champagnes from the same tiny grower-producer in the Côte de Sezanne. The wines, however, are very differnet: one is a very dark, very pretty rosé; the other a rich, hedonistic, vintage Blanc de Blancs. The lineup is rounded out by a wine from the French Alps, that is one of the small delights of France.
For all the details, click here
Posted in Champange and Sparkling Wine Society - March '09, March '09 | No Responses »
Friday, March 20th, 2009
This wine domaine was founded by the fathers of Alexandra and Jérome in 1975. At the time, their parents were subsistence farmers (a little bit of everything: milk, cows, beef, hay, wheat and some table grapes and wine not worth drinking. To survive economically, one brother, a charcutier (pork butcher) and the other, a construction entrepreneur, worked on the vines on the weekends and in their spare time and planted AC grapes varieties.Two cousins, Alexandra and Jérome took over the domain from their fathers in 2004 and the wines have been delightful ever since.
Comprised of 10 hectares, of which 6 ha are 30 years old and 4 ha are less than 20 years old, Domaine Labbé is located 15km south of Chambéry, a village famous for its Vermouth and cheese. Vinification practices preserve both varietal typicity and freshness – the cellar temperature is controlled, fermentation occurs through indigenous yeasts in non-reactive tanks/foudres.
The Savoie region is an Alpine region in Eastern France neighboring Switzerland with many of its vineyards lying close to the Rhone River as it winds its way from Geneva southward. 1,725 hectares are under vine in the Savoie, two-thirds of which are white, but very little of its wines are found outside of the region as they are mostly consumed locally, given the region’s popularity as both a winter and summer vacation destination. There are 17 crus entitled to append their names to the Vin de Savoie appellation, of which Abymes is one. The appellation controllée ABYMES comes from the French word “abimé” which means broken and refers to the broken stones in the avalanches from the mountains (Alps). The stones are sierra colored. Varieties are largely indigenous; the most widely planted white is Jacquère, the variety planted at Domaine Labbé.
Made from 100% Jacquère, Domaine Labbé Brut de Savoie shares more than a few qualities with its alpine environs – think cold, rushing stream and aromas of pine trees. Try this with charcuterie, Beaufort (or Camtal, or . . . ), apples, or just as a treat in the afternoon. Drink now – 2010.
Posted in Champange and Sparkling Wine Society - March '09, March '09 | 1 Response »
Tags: Alps, Jacquère, Labbé, Savoie
Friday, March 20th, 2009
Jacques Copinet is one of the premier growers in the Côte de Sezanne. He and his wife Brigitte own six ha of mostly Chardonnay vines outside of Montegnost. Between Champagne Jacques Copinet, his RM label, and his two other labels Charles Desfours and Jean Larrey, he makes 4,000 cases of Champagne per year. This is about 1/50th of the production of Dom Perignon (not Moet & Chandon, but just Dom Perignon). The Côte de Sezanne is a rapidly developing area of Champagne 10 miles southwest of the Côte des Blancs, that also favors Chardonnay. 
The wines differ from the wines of the Côte de Blancs in that they are richer, and often have an exotic, lush character that can be completely intriguing. The wines from Jacques Copinet are amongst my favorites from the region: they have a breed and intensity that sets them apart. They also have just that much more restraint than their neighbors, which presents a nearly perfect package.
The Rosé consists of 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay, and is made from white wine blended with red (which is more traditional than the saignée methode). What I particularly love about this wine is the dark rosé color. The flavors are rich, zesty red fruit, with an underlying minerality. The Pinot Poir gives this wine weight and structure, but it still has a rich, hedonistic character. Try this with hard cheese, delicate fish like sole, chicken breasts, or foie gras torchon. Drink now – 2012.
Posted in Champange and Sparkling Wine Society - March '09, March '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Champagne, Côte de Barr, Côte de Cezanne, Jacques Cppinet, RM, Rose
Friday, March 20th, 2009
Jacques Copinet is one of the premier growers in the Côte de Sezanne. He and his wife Brigitte own six ha of mostly Chardonnay vines outside of Montegnost. Between Champagne Jacques Copinet, his RM label, and his two other labels Charles Desfours and Jean Larrey, he makes 4,000 cases of Champagne per year. This is about 1/50th of the production of Dom Perignon (not Moet & Chandon, but just Dom Perignon).
The Côte de Sezanne is a rapidly developing area of Champagne 10 miles southwest of the Côte des Blancs, that also favors Chardonnay. 
The wines differ from the wines of the Côte de Blancs in that they are richer, and often have an exotic, lush character that can be completely intriguing. The wines from Jacques Copinet are amongst my favorites from the region: they have a breed and intensity that sets them apart. They also have just that much more restraint than their neighbors, which presents a nearly perfect package.
Cuvée Marie Etienne is 100% Chardonnay that is hand sorted, treated to a slow, cool fermentation, and never allowed to see oak. The results are a stunning contrast between confit lemon, nectarine, quince and brioche, grilled bread and caramelly goodness. Because of the gentil treatment, this wine proves an incredible foil for traditional Champagne accompaniments like caviar, oysters and white fish quenelles, but is also a prime candidate for my favorite Champagne pairing. Drink now – 2018.
Posted in Champange and Sparkling Wine Society - March '09, March '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, Côte de Barr, Côte de Sezanne, Jacques Copinet, Marie Etienne, Montegnost
Friday, March 20th, 2009
If I just look at the places I went to in March, I’m not that impressed. California & the Rhône are kind of run of the mill. But the truth is, the reason we are so familiar with them is that both regions are capable of making some of the best wines in the world. Here are a couple of gems that you may not be familiar with. An historic Cabernet Sauvignon producer in Napa that has fallen off the map until recently, an upstart Chardonnay producer using Sonoma fruit in a style that is 100% new to California, and a Rasteau (formerly Côte du Rhône Village Rasteau) that is nothing short of enlightening (and hard to share). And for those who got all red, a South African red that I’m quite sure will change your outlook on the region in the same way it changed mine.
To get the details, click here
If you ordered all red, click here
Posted in March '09, The Next Big Thing - March '09, The Next Big Thing All Red - March '09 | No Responses »
Friday, March 20th, 2009
Take a great vineyard, two ambitious and idealistic young men, and a little bit of elbow grease, and amazing things can happen. I never thought that my friend Matt Licklider would be responsible for such good wine (I knew him when he was living out of a suitcase working for North Berkeley Imports). Well, he is, and I’m happy that he is a good enough friend to let me buy some, because there isn’t much .
LIOCO (pronounced lee-oko) is a dynamic “virtual winery” committed to site-driven wines. It is the result of a years- ongconversation between Matt Licklider, (a seasoned wine import specialist) and Kevin O’Connor (wine director at the esteemed Spago-Beverly Hills) about whether or not California could produce wines of origin.
Durell Vineyard is located in the southwest corner of the Sonoma Valley appellation, bordering Carneros and San Pablo Bay. While much of Carneros is resigned to a rather pedestrian clay-based soil, Durell is situated in a dried-up river bed and boasts tough soil strewn with cobble stones. There are roughly 300 acres of this wholly unique soil in all of Sonoma Valley. This high rock content infuses the wine with a varied mineral essence. The vineyard was planted 30-years ago by the enigmatic Steve Hill, who continues to farm it, impeccably, with his viticulturalist son Ned.
This wine was hand picked and sorted, whole cluster pressed, and fermented with a wild yeast in 100% stainless steel (no oak). A naturally-occuring malo finished completely. The wine rested on its fine lees (no batonnage) until bottling, which was done without fining or filtering.
Though this wine isn’t oaked, it has a stunning richness, complexity and length. The exotic blend of peach, lime, orange peel, and mineral is a fitting match for fatty fish like sea bass, for foie gras terrine (we can’t drink Sauternes every day!) and grilled or poached salmon. Drink now – 2018.
Posted in March '09, The Next Big Thing - March '09 | 1 Response »
Tags: Chardonnay, Durell, Kevin O'Connor, LIOCO, Matt Licklider, Sonoma
Friday, March 20th, 2009
In 1993, a group of enthusiasts purchased a farmstead near the town of Franshoek, that had been founded in 1776. The group painstakingly replanted the vineyards and restored the property, and built a new winery. The farmstead was called Boekenhoutskloof*.
Boekenhoutskloof is commited to innovation in pursuit of quality, and to this end they have a much more modern regime than many of their neighbors. Led by Mark Carter, one of the original investors, the winemaking team uses the most modern equipment to get the best out of their phenomenal sites. Since the first release of Shiraz in 1997, the winery has gone from one success to another, and one of the best wines has always been The Chocolate Block.
A blend of Syrah (55%), Grenache (20%), Cabernet Sauvignon (16%), Cinsault (5%) and Viognier. They source the Syrah fruit from a dry-land Malmesbury vineyard in the Swartland. The Grenache noir grapes come from the Oudam farm in Citrusdal, being the oldest Grenache vineyard in South Africa planted in 1966. The Cinsault comes from 42 year old vines in Wellington and the Cabernet Sauvignon and Viognier fruit comes from the Boekenhoutskloof vineyards.
This is a big, rich, easy drinking wine, that almost hides the structure and breed that lie just under the surface of the chocolatey (yes!) fruit. Try it with braised shortribs, bison or buffalo, blue cheese, mushrooms with sweet or rich sauce, and all manner of full flavored foods. Drink now – 2018
*I love Afrikanz names, they sound so round. I am always surprised when the just mean something normal. Here is the winery’s explanation of this name:
The direct translation of Boekenhoutskloof is ‘ravine of the boekenhout.’ Great, but what is a boekenhout, and how does one pronounce it? Last things first, boekenhout is pronounced ‘book-n-howed’. A boekenhout is an indigenous Cape birch tree that was greatly prized for furniture making.”
The romance, I’m a afraid, is dead, but we can still repeat the name over and over to ourselves and imagine what it could mean.
Posted in March '09, The Next Big Thing All Red - March '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Boekenhoutskloof, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, Grenache, Red Blend, Shiraz, South Africa, Viognier
Friday, March 20th, 2009
For more than 200 years Domaine La Soumade has been in the hands of the Romero family, who continue to work the soil in the ancient traditions. It is Andre Romero who is producing minuscule amounts of some of the most amazing wines in the southern Rhone.
Domaine de La Soumade is situated in the commune of Rasteau, between Orange and Vaison-la-Romaine, with wonderful views of Mont Ventoux. The Domaine is composed of several parcels of land, the greater portion of which sits on stony hillsides with a total of 24 hectares.
But Romero is also a great student of wine, and keeps up to date on the most modern techniques from around the world. Self-taught and adhering to the virtues of low yields and extended fermentation, Romero has invested in an automatic pigeage system along Burgundian lines which ensures maximum extraction. The resulting wine is soft, yet sturdy, with berry flavours and a whiff of wood-smoke betraying its provenance. André is also, in large part, responsible for Rasteau getting it’s AOC status for still wine.
This blend of very old vine Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre is heady and powerful, with raspberry, white pepper, fig, cocoa, coffee, smoke and layers of jammy, intense fruit. Try it with Daube (Provençal stew of lamb and olives), barbecue pork, hard to semi-soft cheese and venison. Drink now – 2016.
Posted in March '09, The Next Big Thing - March '09, The Next Big Thing All Red - March '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Andre Romero, Confiance, Grenache, Mourvedre, Rasteau, Soumade, Syrah
Friday, March 20th, 2009
Larkmead Vineyards isn’t new to the California Cabernet game. The Vineyard and winery have been around since the 1880’s, and the Solaris (the current owners) have owned the property since 1948. André Tchelistcheff is quoted as saying that in 1938 when 
he arrived in the Napa Valley, there were four “outstanding” wineries, “Inglenook, Beaulieu, Larkmead and Beringer.” That said, we don’t here much about the vineyard any more.
This may be because the vineyard, and certainly the winemaking, regime fell into decline in the 1970’s and 1980’s (when the rest of Napa was beginning it’s rapid ascension). But in the 1990’s Cam Baker (Katie Solari Baker’s Husband) began a vigorous vineyard and winery overhaul. He replanted nearly all of the vineyards, leaving only a rare 120 year old plot of Tocai Friuliano untouched, and began moving towards organic agriculture. The results were impressive, Larkmead fruit is now sought after for some of the best Napa wines, including Orin Swift’s The Prisoner, Covenant and Ramey’s Larkmead Vineyard Cabernet. Winemaker’s say that despite the relatively young age of the vines, there is something very special about the sight, which lies in the narrowest part of the valley, just beneath Howell Mountain (to which it’s fruit is often compared) and just South of Calistoga.
But what we’re concerned with is the Larkmead Vineyards Cabernet, and it is here that Cam Baker’s coup de grace becomes evident. Upon completing the replanting, a new, state of the art winery was built, and David Smith was hired as the winemaker in 1999. The results have been fantastic.
Don’t misunderstand, this is not some jammy, overoaked cult wine wannabe. This is a wine with breeding, with powerful elegant tannins, layered dusty red and black fruit, and a long, intriguing finish. It’s also going to age phenomenally. The wine is made of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot aged for 20 months in 60% new French oak barrels. Try it with grilled steak, blue cheese, rack of lamb . . . you know the drill. Drink 2010 – 2020 (but it won’t dissapoint if you can’t wait)!
Posted in March '09, The Next Big Thing - March '09, The Next Big Thing All Red - March '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cam Baker, David Smith, Katie Solaris Baker, Larkmead, Napa, Ramey, Tchelistcheff
Thursday, March 19th, 2009
Tenuta Villanova and its vineyards have been in existence since at least 1499, though it is thought that vines have been cultivated in the area since the 13th century BC. In 1939, the property was purchased by Arnaldo Bennati, and is still run by his wife, Guiseppina Grossi Bennati today.
Shaped by ancient tectonic activity and then by glaciation, the rolling hills of the Friuli-Venezia Giulia are nearly perfect for wine growing. The soil is well drained, and the climate is sunny and mild. These are particularly good areas for whites. Something about the soil and aspect gives an extra intensity to the aromas, and an extra hint of body that never threatens to make the wines seem heavy. This is the only region in Italy where Sauvignon Blanc is commonly planted, and the results can be really stunning. Nothing like French Sauvignon Blanc, these wines have a thickness to them, and are more about ripe fruit and crisp acidity than the vegetal characters that can dominate Loire Valley Sauvignon Blancs.
This wine is a great example. This is a great wine for Quiche and other egg dishes, anything with goat cheese, white fish (also fish soup) and salads. Drink now – 2010.
Posted in March '09, Off the Beaten Path March '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Friuli, Isonzo, Sauvignon Blanc, Villanova
Thursday, March 19th, 2009
The wine growing estate of Kurt Angerer is a family business and has a tradition of 150 years. Located in the Kamptal region the vines have south and southwestern exposure protecting them from the rough north winds. Due to Kurt Angerer’s lack of compromise and commitment to high quality, both in the vineyards as well as during vinification the wines are considered some of the best in Kamptal. Angerer feels strongly attached to tradition and his vineyard “terroir” which is evident in the names he has chosen for his different wines: Kies (gravel), Spies, Loam ( Loess) and Eichenstaude.
Grüner Veltliner is the most planted grape in Austria, and is what much of the revolution in Austrian wine is based on. Its flavors vary greatly from place to place, but in general, it has characters of white pepper, citrus, and a pleasant vegetal character (described as everything from lentil to tinned asparagus) and often notes of white peach and honey.
This wine, from gravelly vineyards, is on the crisp side, but shows hints of pepper, honey, celery and stone fruit. There is a lovely stony minerality and a long finish carried by the acidity and fruit. It is a wine to try with grilled chicken, asparagus, white fish, and shellfish. Drink now – 2010.
Posted in March '09, Off the Beaten Path March '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Austria, Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal, Kurt Angerer
Thursday, March 19th, 2009
Gerard Charvin and his son, Laurent, represent the quintessence of the small domaine/father and son team. Together they 
combine the experience and patience of Gerard with the wine making brilliance of Laurent, now regarded as one of the top wine-makers in the appellation. Robert Parker said of the wines of Domaine Charvin that “they may indeed produce the Richebourg of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.”
But what to do with some vineyards just north of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape Appellation that are planted to Merlot, which, although fairly common in this area of the Rhône is not permitted in any of the appellation wines? After the movie Sideways came out, with its central joke revolving around the protagonists’ dislike of Merlot, Gerard decided to name it à Côté, which means, sideways in French. That the wine is delicious is an added bonus.
Only 8,000 bottles of this wine were made (that’s about 650 cases for those of you counting). This wine is made from about 80% Merlot, and 20% Grenache. The Merlot was planted in 1999, and the Grenache was planted partly in 1955 and partly in 1973. It’s a wine to enjoy, young, fruity and vivacious. Try with fish, poutry (herb roasted chicken), cheese and charcuterie. Drink now – 2011.
Posted in March '09, Off the Beaten Path All Red March '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Domaine Charvin, Grenache, Merlot, Rhône
Thursday, March 19th, 2009
Pierre et Monique Luneau-Papin head this 30-hectare estate in Le Landreau, in the heart of Muscadet country, where small hamlets dot a landscape of vineyards on low hills. Their estate, also known as Domaine Pierre de la Grange, has been in existence since the early 18th century when it was already planted with Melon de Bourgogne, the Muscadet varietal. Pierre and Monique are the eighth generation of winemakers in the family. Pierre is a genial, low-key, distracted professor type. He’s the winemaker and vineyard work supervisor. His wife Monique, lively, energetic and equally genial, is the business manager.
But Muscadet is one thing, and Gros Plant another. Gros Plant is the local name for Folle Blanche, a grape that reaches its apex as a neutral base wine to be distilled into Cognac or Armagnac. Gros Plant has been a widely planted grape near the Atlantic coast for some time, and provides the country wine for this part of the Loire Valley.
Luneau Papin treats Gros Plant in the same manner as their Melon, and the results are delightful. The wine is fruitier than Muscadet, with a powerful acidity that makes it feel incredibly refreshing. This is a wine to try with salads, goat cheese, fresh water fish, and just to quench your thirst on a warm afternoon. Drink now – 2010 (don’t save it!)
Posted in March '09, Off the Beaten Path March '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Domaine Pierre de la Grange, Folle Blanche, Gros Plant, Luneau Papin, Muscadet, Pays Nantais
Thursday, March 19th, 2009
When most of us think about wine from New Zealand, we think about the zingy Sauvignon Blancs from Marlborough or the Pinot Noirs from Martinborough or Central Otago, but an small area called Gimblett Gravels, in Hawkes Bay on New Zealand’s North Island, produces amazing Bordeaux Varieties. The weather hear is warm, and the maritime influence that plays such an important role in most of the rest of New Zealand is mitigated by mountains. There is also a gravelly soil (hence the name) that retains daytime heat and helps with drainage, further encouraging ripe wines. See the map below for a better idea of where Hawke’s Bay, and Mills Reef, lie in relation to the rest of New Zealand. Click on this link to see a map of Hawkes Bay with Mills Reef Vineyards marked
Mills Reef is a family owned winery (there is also a restaurant) and father Paddy, and son Tim Preston are the primary winemakers. They receive frequent awards, and Mills Reef is recognized as one of the premier producers of Gimblet Gravels wines.
Mills Reef Reserve Merlot Malbec consists of 55% Merlot and 45% Malbec, aged for 7 months in a combination of new and one year old oak that is both French and American. Rich dark fruit, savory spices, and hints of olive and oak contribute to a complex, smooth wine with great balance and character. Try this with roasted chicken, braised beef, flank steak, and roasted pepper dishes. Drink now – 2012
Posted in March '09, Off the Beaten Path All Red March '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Gimblett Gravels, Malbec, Merlot, Mills Reef, New Zealand
Thursday, March 19th, 2009
Ribera Del Duero, the home of Spain’s famous Vega Sicilia Winery, has only recently become a reliable wine region. But even though it’s fame is recent, the wines from Ribera del Duero aren’t cheap, and as such, the remote, and inhospitable Spanish wine region has remained less than 
well-known in the US. The wines are made from mostly Tinto Fino, also called Tinto del Pais, which is a local variant of the Tempranillo grape that has become especially suited to Ribera del Duero’s harsh climate.
Bodegas Martín Berdugo is a family-owned winery that is committed to making modern-styled, reasonably priced wines. They are also very good at it. The winery is located near Aranda del Deuro, on the banks of the Arandilla river. From 87 hectares of vines, the winery makes exceptional 100% Tempranillo Ribera del Dueros (the appellation allows Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec as well).
This wine is powerful and oaky, showing sweet red plum fruit framed by cocao, spice and coconut from American Oak and powerful tannins. Try it with lamb, barbecue beef ribs, blue cheese, and just about anything hearty. Drink now – 2014
Posted in March '09, Off the Beaten Path All Red March '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Martin Bedugo, Ribera del Duero, Spain, Tempranillo
Thursday, March 19th, 2009
The Douro in Portugal is where the vineyards from which Port is produced lie. The vineyards, called quintas, are carved out of stone on the intimidatingly steep slopes of mountains on either side of the Douro River (the Duero in Spain). Traditionally (though this is changing rapidly), the large port houses haven’t owned their vineyards, and as a result, there are hundreds of small growers producing grapes. Over the last fifteen years, worldwide sales of Port have been dropping rapidly, and though these small vineyard owners have always made some still wines for local consumption, many have been trying with mixed success to break into the market for still wines. The challenges are that many of even the best quintas don’t have their own winemaking equipment, and don’t have the know how to make polished, modern wines for the export market.
in 2000, Dirk Niepoort, of Niepoort, one of the best port shippers, brought together fifteen of the best young quinta owners, and instead of selling off their grapes to the local coop, they began making wine in a state of the art facility, with an experienced technical team. The project was called Lavradores dei Feitoria, and the results have been nothing short of impressive. Lavradores means growers in Portugese. Tres Bagos refers to the three subregions of the Douro Valley, Baixo Corgo, Cima Corgo, and Douro Superior. There is a sort of abstract map of the quintas involved below, showing where they are in relation to the Douro River.
Tres Bagos Tinto is made up of 52% Touriga Nacional, 16.5% Touriga Franca, 14% Tinta Barroca, 13.5% Tinta Roriz (a.k.a. Tempranillo) and 4% a mixture of other grape varieties. It is a medium-full bodied wine, with a dark violet color, moderate oak influence, and lots of raspberry, cherry and mint characters. The long, peppery finish, and powerful minerality set this aside as wine of breed. Think about serving with cheeseburgers, poultry, and hard aged cheeses. Drink now – 2012.
Posted in March '09, Off the Beaten Path All Red March '09, Off the Beaten Path March '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Douro, Lavradores dei Feitoria, Portugal, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional
Thursday, March 19th, 2009
The Village of St. Marcel d’Ardèche, home to Domaine de Couron, lies along the boundary at which Provence is said to begin. 35 miles northwest of Avignon, lying on the limestone plateau that seperates the northern Rhône from the southern Rhône, at St. Marcel the climate changes from continental to Mediterannean, the skies turn blue, and the light becomes limpid. Olive trees begin to dot the landscape, and the grapes switch from the near monoculture of Syrah in the North, to the patchwork of varieties that makes the southern Rhône valley such an exciting wine region.
St. Marcel in general, and Domaine de Couron in particular, have been planted to grape vines since Roman times. The vineyards of the domaine were owned by the family of a Roman soldier until the dissolution of the Roman Empire in the area (around 476 AD) after which they passed to the church, and were given as tribute to soldiers returning to the crusades. Since then the vineyards have passed through many hands. The Domaine is currently owned by Jean-Luc and Marie-Lise Dorthe.
Marselan is grape that was invented rather than discovered. It is a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache that was developed sometime around 1961. Though it was thought to be a natural for Languedoc Vineyards, the most interesting versions, a number of which I really like, come form this limestone-rich area in the Southern Rhône. At it’s best, as in this case, the wine is vibrantly piquant, with smoky blackberry and black cherry fruit, and lots of spunk. For food, this is a great wine for charcuterie, olives, roast lamb, or just about anything else that a Cabernet or Grenache would go with. Drink it from now – 2011.
Posted in March '09, Off the Beaten Path All Red March '09, Off the Beaten Path March '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Ardeche, Couron, Marselan, Southern Rhone
Thursday, March 19th, 2009
Vinos Sin-Ley is a very cool project. The literal translation is “Wines Without Law.” Vinos Sin-Ley’s two goals are to create new wines: that are focused on expressing their respective grapes and terroirs; while also being accessible to consumers as a great value. The concept is driven by creative innovations utilizing non-conventional methods of harvesting, fermenting, blending and ageing. The results are wines with fresh fruit driven flavors, distinct from other wines in the past. Vinos Sin-Ley is composed of a group of resourceful young winemakers from all across Spain. Vinos Sin-Ley shares a common philosophy driven by experimentation and innovative insight to make value oriented, well crafted wines. They meet twice a year to set in place new projects of mutual interest and to share their collective knowledge of the winemaking techniques to be implemented.
The importer has a feature on the website that I have never seen before, there are audio files describing each of the wines. I’m not sure how I feel about them, but in the interest of passing the information on to you, here is a link to the .wav file.
This wine is called GRA1 because it is the first 100% Graciano made for Vinos Sin-Ley. Graciano is the least well known of the quartet of traditional Rioja Grapes, the others being Tempranillo, Garnacha and Mazuelo (called Carignan in France). Graciano is almost extinct because it is a finicky variety that is hard to grow, and if not fully ripe, it can create tannic monstrosities. But when treated well, as it is here, it is one of the most characterful grapes in the bunch, and deserves its own place in the sun (or, after its in the bottle, out of the sun). This, needless to say is a great example.
Emilio Aguillo, who makes this wine for Vinos Sin-Ley, is the proprietor and winemaker for Bodegas Solar de Alaya in the town of Guardia in Rioja Alevesa. The Graciano comes from his own ten acres of Graciano vineyards. Only 300 cases of this wine are made.
The wine is powerful and savory, with great, elegant tannins, deep color, impressive aromatics and a long finish. Think about ham, lamb, pork roasts, and anything with blue cheese to pair with it. This wine will age nobly, though it is tasting wonderfully right now. Drink now – 2014.
Posted in March '09, Off the Beaten Path All Red March '09, Off the Beaten Path March '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Emilio Aguilla, Graciano, Rioja, Vinos Sin-Ley
Thursday, March 19th, 2009
As usual, we have lots of wild fun this month. Wines from Austria, France, Italy, Portugal and Spain or if you get all reds switch Austria and Italy for another Spain and New Zealand. Proving once again that it’s well worth exploring the outer reaches of the wine world.
To see the descriptions of the entire selection of wines you received this month, follow the approriate link below.
Extraordinary Wines from Off the Beaten Path, click here
Extraordinary Wines from Off the Beaten Path all red, click here
Posted in March '09, Off the Beaten Path All Red March '09, Off the Beaten Path March '09 | No Responses »
Friday, February 20th, 2009
Join Thibault Liger-Belair of Domaine Liger-Belair in Nuits-Saint-George for an intimate dinner at The Corson Building. This is a rare opportunity to join one of the rising stars of Burgundy for a intimate dinner accompanied by a selection of ten of his stunningly elegant Burgundies. The understated elegance of the space, the unapologetic seasonality of Chef/Owner Matt Dillon’s cuisine, and the unpretentious hospitality of Marc Papineau’s service team will provide the perfect complement to Thibault’s transparent, terroir-driven wines.
As you chat with Thibault, and enjoy a stunning dinner, you will be trying a selection of Thibault’s very rare, and totally stunning old vine Burgundies including: 2006 Corton Les Renards Grand Cru (from vines planted in 1965), 2006 & 2002 Vosne-Romanée Aux Réas (from vines planted in 1956) and 2006 & 2004 Richebourg (from vines planted in 1936).
Due to the size of the space and the quantity of wines available, space is extremely limited. Reservations are required. Dinner with wines $225 per person.
For more information and reservations, contact:
The Corson Building | 206 762 3330
5609 Corson Avenue South | Seattle, Washington 98108
You may also contact me directly | 206 390 8310, | wine@jakekosseff.com
Posted in Events, Off the Beaten Path March '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Corton, Grand Cru, Marc Papineau, Matt Dillon, Pinot Noir, Red Burgundy, Richebourg, The Corson Building, Thibault Liger-Belair
Allright, where to start here. First, a word about Schilcher. Schilcher is a protected name for rosé wines made from the Blauer Wildbacher grape in West Styria, Austria. There is a great tradition with these wines, and they represent one of the few truly noble rosé wine styles (even as a still wine, Schilcher is at it’s best after 5-7 years of ageing, and lasts up to 20). Though he is not the the only producer making méthode champenoise Schilcher sparkling wine, Franz Strohmeier is one of only a handful, and the results are unbelievably wonderful.
sparkling wine production process, in fact they show beautifully, with the added complexity that only a second fermentation and the resulting autolysis and Reaction Maillard can give to a wine. On top of that, the bubbles in this wine are as fine as any Champagne, and the hints of tannins from the skin contact provide what can only be described as a pleasant shock to the palate, and a great starting point for food pairings.
