This is a good month for bubbles. We have two Champagnes from the same tiny grower-producer in the Côte de Sezanne. The wines, however, are very differnet: one is a very dark, very pretty rosé; the other a rich, hedonistic, vintage Blanc de Blancs. The lineup is rounded out by a wine from the French Alps, that is one of the small delights of France.
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This wine domaine was founded by the fathers of Alexandra and Jérome in 1975. At the time, their parents were subsistence farmers (a little bit of everything: milk, cows, beef, hay, wheat and some table grapes and wine not worth drinking. To survive economically, one brother, a charcutier (pork butcher) and the other, a construction entrepreneur, worked on the vines on the weekends and in their spare time and planted AC grapes varieties.Two cousins, Alexandra and Jérome took over the domain from their fathers in 2004 and the wines have been delightful ever since.
Comprised of 10 hectares, of which 6 ha are 30 years old and 4 ha are less than 20 years old, Domaine Labbé is located 15km south of Chambéry, a village famous for its Vermouth and cheese. Vinification practices preserve both varietal typicity and freshness – the cellar temperature is controlled, fermentation occurs through indigenous yeasts in non-reactive tanks/foudres.
The Savoie region is an Alpine region in Eastern France neighboring Switzerland with many of its vineyards lying close to the Rhone River as it winds its way from Geneva southward. 1,725 hectares are under vine in the Savoie, two-thirds of which are white, but very little of its wines are found outside of the region as they are mostly consumed locally, given the region’s popularity as both a winter and summer vacation destination. There are 17 crus entitled to append their names to the Vin de Savoie appellation, of which Abymes is one. The appellation controllée ABYMES comes from the French word “abimé” which means broken and refers to the broken stones in the avalanches from the mountains (Alps). The stones are sierra colored. Varieties are largely indigenous; the most widely planted white is Jacquère, the variety planted at Domaine Labbé.
Made from 100% Jacquère, Domaine Labbé Brut de Savoie shares more than a few qualities with its alpine environs – think cold, rushing stream and aromas of pine trees. Try this with charcuterie, Beaufort (or Camtal, or . . . ), apples, or just as a treat in the afternoon. Drink now – 2010.
Jacques Copinet is one of the premier growers in the Côte de Sezanne. He and his wife Brigitte own six ha of mostly Chardonnay vines outside of Montegnost. Between Champagne Jacques Copinet, his RM label, and his two other labels Charles Desfours and Jean Larrey, he makes 4,000 cases of Champagne per year. This is about 1/50th of the production of Dom Perignon (not Moet & Chandon, but just Dom Perignon). The Côte de Sezanne is a rapidly developing area of Champagne 10 miles southwest of the Côte des Blancs, that also favors Chardonnay. 
The wines differ from the wines of the Côte de Blancs in that they are richer, and often have an exotic, lush character that can be completely intriguing. The wines from Jacques Copinet are amongst my favorites from the region: they have a breed and intensity that sets them apart. They also have just that much more restraint than their neighbors, which presents a nearly perfect package.
The Rosé consists of 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay, and is made from white wine blended with red (which is more traditional than the saignée methode). What I particularly love about this wine is the dark rosé color. The flavors are rich, zesty red fruit, with an underlying minerality. The Pinot Poir gives this wine weight and structure, but it still has a rich, hedonistic character. Try this with hard cheese, delicate fish like sole, chicken breasts, or foie gras torchon. Drink now – 2012.
Jacques Copinet is one of the premier growers in the Côte de Sezanne. He and his wife Brigitte own six ha of mostly Chardonnay vines outside of Montegnost. Between Champagne Jacques Copinet, his RM label, and his two other labels Charles Desfours and Jean Larrey, he makes 4,000 cases of Champagne per year. This is about 1/50th of the production of Dom Perignon (not Moet & Chandon, but just Dom Perignon).
The Côte de Sezanne is a rapidly developing area of Champagne 10 miles southwest of the Côte des Blancs, that also favors Chardonnay. 
The wines differ from the wines of the Côte de Blancs in that they are richer, and often have an exotic, lush character that can be completely intriguing. The wines from Jacques Copinet are amongst my favorites from the region: they have a breed and intensity that sets them apart. They also have just that much more restraint than their neighbors, which presents a nearly perfect package.
Cuvée Marie Etienne is 100% Chardonnay that is hand sorted, treated to a slow, cool fermentation, and never allowed to see oak. The results are a stunning contrast between confit lemon, nectarine, quince and brioche, grilled bread and caramelly goodness. Because of the gentil treatment, this wine proves an incredible foil for traditional Champagne accompaniments like caviar, oysters and white fish quenelles, but is also a prime candidate for my favorite Champagne pairing. Drink now – 2018.
