The Next Big Thing All Red - March '09

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The wines that were a part of The Next Big Thing All Red, March 2009.

 

The Next Big Thing – March 2009

Friday, March 20th, 2009

If I just look at the places I went to in March, I’m not that impressed.  California & the Rhône are kind of run of the mill.  But the truth is, the reason we are so familiar with them is that both regions are capable of making some of the best wines in the world.  Here are a couple of gems that you may not be familiar with.  An historic Cabernet Sauvignon producer in Napa that has fallen off the map until recently, an upstart Chardonnay producer using Sonoma fruit  in a style that is 100% new to California, and a Rasteau (formerly Côte du Rhône Village Rasteau) that is nothing short of enlightening (and hard to share).  And for those who got all red, a South African red that I’m quite sure will change your outlook on the region in the same way it changed mine.

To get the details, click here

If you ordered all red, click here

2007 Boekenhoutskloof The Chocolate Block South Africa

Friday, March 20th, 2009

choc_block_07

In 1993, a group of enthusiasts purchased a farmstead  near the town of Franshoek, that had been founded in 1776.  The group painstakingly replanted the vineyards and restored the property, and built a new winery.  The farmstead was called Boekenhoutskloof*.

Boekenhoutskloof is commited to innovation in pursuit of quality, and to this end they have a much more modern regime than many of their neighbors.  Led by Mark Carter, one of the original investors, the winemaking team uses the most modern equipment to get the best out of their phenomenal sites.  Since the first release of Shiraz in 1997, the winery has gone from one success to another, and one of the best wines has always been The Chocolate Block.

A blend of Syrah (55%), Grenache (20%), Cabernet Sauvignon (16%), Cinsault (5%) and Viognier. They source the Syrah fruit from a dry-land Malmesbury vineyard in the Swartland. The Grenache noir grapes come from the Oudam farm in Citrusdal, being the oldest Grenache vineyard in South Africa planted in 1966. The Cinsault comes from 42 year old vines in Wellington and the Cabernet Sauvignon and Viognier fruit comes from the Boekenhoutskloof vineyards.

This is a big, rich, easy drinking wine, that almost hides the structure and breed that lie just under the surface of the chocolatey (yes!) fruit.  Try it with braised shortribs, bison or buffalo, blue cheese, mushrooms with sweet or rich sauce, and all manner of full flavored foods.  Drink now – 2018

*I love Afrikanz names, they sound so round.  I am always surprised when the just mean something normal.  Here is the winery’s explanation of this name:

The direct translation of Boekenhoutskloof is ‘ravine of the boekenhout.’  Great, but what is a boekenhout, and how does one pronounce it? Last things first, boekenhout is pronounced ‘book-n-howed’.  A boekenhout is an indigenous Cape birch tree that was greatly prized for furniture making.”

The romance, I’m a afraid, is dead, but we can still repeat the name over and over to ourselves and imagine what it could mean.

2003 Domaine la Soumade Cuvée Confiance Rasteau, Rhône Valley, France

Friday, March 20th, 2009

cuvee-confianceFor more than 200 years Domaine La Soumade has been in the hands of the Romero family, who continue to work the soil in the ancient traditions. It is Andre Romero who is producing minuscule amounts of some of the most amazing wines in the southern Rhone.

Domaine de La Soumade is situated in the commune of Rasteau, between Orange and Vaison-la-Romaine, with wonderful views of Mont Ventoux. The Domaine is composed of several parcels of land, the greater portion of which sits on stony hillsides with a total of 24 hectares.andre-romero-in-cellar

But Romero is also a great student of wine, and keeps up to date on the most modern techniques from around the world.  Self-taught and adhering to the virtues of low yields and extended fermentation, Romero has invested in an automatic pigeage system along Burgundian lines which ensures maximum extraction. The resulting wine is soft, yet sturdy, with berry flavours and a whiff of wood-smoke betraying its provenance.  André is also, in large part, responsible for Rasteau getting it’s AOC status for still wine.

This blend of very old vine Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre is heady and powerful, with raspberry, white pepper, fig, cocoa, coffee, smoke and layers of jammy, intense fruit.  Try it with Daube (Provençal stew of lamb and olives), barbecue pork, hard to semi-soft cheese and venison.  Drink now – 2016.

2005 Larkmead Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, California

Friday, March 20th, 2009

05-larmead-cabernetLarkmead Vineyards isn’t new to the California Cabernet game.  The Vineyard and winery have been around since the 1880’s, and the Solaris (the current owners) have owned the property since 1948.  André Tchelistcheff is quoted as saying that in 1938 when larkmead-vineyardshe arrived in the Napa Valley, there were four “outstanding” wineries, “Inglenook, Beaulieu, Larkmead and Beringer.” That said, we don’t here much about the vineyard any more.

This may be because the vineyard, and certainly the winemaking, regime fell into decline in the 1970’s and 1980’s (when the rest of Napa was beginning it’s rapid ascension).  But in the 1990’s Cam Baker (Katie Solari Baker’s Husband) began a vigorous vineyard and winery overhaul.  He replanted nearly all of the vineyards, leaving only a rare 120 year old plot of Tocai Friuliano untouched, and began moving towards organic agriculture.  The results were impressive, Larkmead fruit is now sought after for some of the best Napa wines, including Orin Swift’s The Prisoner, Covenant and Ramey’s Larkmead Vineyard Cabernet.  Winemaker’s say that despite the relatively young age of the vines, there is something very special about the sight, which lies in the narrowest part of the valley, just beneath Howell Mountain (to which it’s fruit is often compared) and just South of Calistoga.

But what we’re concerned with is the Larkmead Vineyards Cabernet, and it is here that Cam Baker’s coup de grace becomes evident.  Upon completing the replanting, a new, state of the art winery was built, and David Smith was hired as the winemaker in 1999.  The results have been fantastic.

Don’t misunderstand, this is not some jammy, overoaked cult wine wannabe.  This is a wine with breeding, with powerful elegant tannins, layered dusty red and black fruit, and a long, intriguing finish.  It’s also going to age phenomenally.  The wine is made of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot aged for 20 months in 60% new French oak barrels.  Try it with grilled steak, blue cheese, rack of lamb . . . you know the drill.  Drink 2010 – 2020 (but it won’t dissapoint if you can’t wait)!

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