November '09

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All of the wines shipped in November 2009

 

Extraordinary Wines From Off the Beaten Path – November 2009

Wednesday, November 25th, 2009

This month finds us firmly rooted in France, the South of France to be exact, and it’s sort of fitting. Imagine the cold mistral wind, blowing constantly, as you force your way into the wind sealed door of the local bistro to drink a glass of . . . well you get the picture. We do venture out a bit, but no need. These are wines to excite your senses and warm your body and soul.

All are great wines for the holiday season, but remember to save some for yourself. Drink them with good chear.

To see what’s in your Extraordinary Wines From Off The Beaten Path shipment, click here

To See what’s in your Extraordinary Wines From Off The Beaten Path All Red Shipment, click here

Best Wishes,

Jake

2006 Confuron-Conteditot Bourgogne Passetoutgrain, France

Wednesday, November 25th, 2009

The Confuron family have been vignerons since the reign of Louis XIV, back in the seventeenth century, when their speciality was vine selection and propagation – they even have a strain of Pinot Noir named after them, the ‘Pinot Confuron’.

Jack Confuron’s marriage to Bernadette Cotetidot in 1964 gave the estate its present name. Jack has continued in charge of the estate ever since, but his son, Yves, has gradually taking over responsibility, assisted by his oenologist brother, Jean-Pierre. The domaine has an impressive portfolio of vineyards with several Grands Crus and the revered Premier Cru of Les Suchots.

the Confuron’s have always taken the greatest care in the vineyards, performing their own massale selection of vines (ie selecting and using the healthiest plants for propagation), which are on average 65 years old. Unusually for Burgundy, their vineyards have never been treated with herbicides or pesticides, and the vine roots penetrate deep into the soils, giving the grapes a minerality that “defines our terroir”. A green harvest in spring limits the number of bunches per vine and therefore ensure optimal ripening for those left on. Harvest proper is then usually later than most.

A traditional blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay Noir (in this case a 50/50 blend), that is designed to provide and early drinking wine while the vin de garde settle, Confuron-Contetidot’s version shows more structure and depth than most others, yet still sings with cherry and raspberry fruit. Drink this with pate de Campagne, roasted wild mushrooms, or rich beef based soups. Drink now – 2011.

2008 Mas de Boislauzon le Chaussynette VdT Française

Wednesday, November 25th, 2009

Some months I get carried away with Spanish wine, some months I get carried away with Malbec, and some months I get carried away with Mourvedre. This month I got carried away with Grenache blends from France. I am continually reminded that Grenache, particularly when blended with its usual partners Syrah, Mouvedre, Carignan and Cinsault, is one of the most undervalued wine grapes in existence. This month, you’ll get to judge for yourself. All three of these wines are from less than 150 miles apart, but couldn’t be more different, or more delicious.

Mas de Boislauzon is one of the premier small producers of Chateauneuf du Pape. This wine comes from a small (really small) vineyard just outside of Chateauneuf, and is sort of an experiment for them. There is no oak ageing, and the wine is released 9 months after the vintage. Only three hundred cases are made and it sells out nearly instantly.

Made from 50% Grenache, the rest is Mourvedre, Syrah and Carignan. Try this wine with just about anything that isn’t spicy or sweet. Drink now – 2011.

2007 Domaine Boisson Côtes du Rhône Villages-Cairanne, France

Wednesday, November 25th, 2009

This is one of those cases where the story of the winery isn’t all that romantic. A family owns some vineyards, and over the years begins making their own wines. However, what the story lacks in fireworks, the wines more than make up for. These are near-perfect wines from the village of Cairanne in the Southern Rhône Valley.

This wine, made from vines between 20 nd 110 years in age, is composed of 50% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, 20% Syrah, and 10% Carignan. Try it with grilled t-bones, duck breast, or rich fish dishes. Drink now – 2018.

This is one of those cases where the story of the winery isn’t all that romantic. A family owns some vineyards, and over the years begins making their own wines. However, what the story lacks in fireworks, the wines more than make up for. These are near-perfect wines from the village of Cairanne in the Southern Rhône Valley.

This wine, made from vines between 20 nd 110 years in age, is composed of 50% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, 20% Syrah, and 10% Carignan. Try it with grilled t-bones, duck breast, or rich fish dishes. Drink now – 2018.

2007 Château Canorgue Côtes de Luberon, France

Wednesday, November 25th, 2009

The Margan family’s excellent wines were an added benefit for the whole crew. The chateau is built on ruins of a Roman villa in the village of Bonnieux, in the center of the southern French region known as the Luberon, on the northern edge of Provence. The beautiful old chapel on the label is part of the property, which was all part of a fiefdom granted by Pope Benoit XIV.

Chateau La Canorgue’s small wine property is a special place for the culture of the vine. Only the best suited regional varietals are grown here: Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Carignan and Cinsault for red wines; Viognier and Chardonnay for whites. Natural quality is the goal; the Margan family chose organic and biodynamic methods to support this goal. Their vineyard is cultivated mechanically, without chemical pesticides or fertilizers, using only natural and local soil amendments. The average yield per hectares is only 30 hl.

This wine is a blend of Viognier and Chardonnay from the estate vineyards. Though it sees some oak, the pure peach, citrus, and apple fruit, combined with a lovely floral tone are the stars here. Drink this with turkey, salmon, or pork roast. Drink now – 2013.

2008 Les Perles Viognier, Vin de Pays d’Oc, France

Wednesday, November 25th, 2009

Made by Jérôme Calmes of Les Vialas fame, Les Perles Viognier is a perfect example of Languedoc Viognier. Medium weight, full of floral, herbal and stonefruit character, and with a long, mineral finish.

Try this with Southeast Asian foods, yams, and curry dishes. Drink now – 2011.

2007 Fattoria Cabanon Riesling, Otreppo Pavese, Italy

Wednesday, November 25th, 2009

The Mercandelli family have made wine at Cabanon since 1909. In the 1960s, however, Giovanni Mercandelli brought a new vision to the family business. Blending a deep knowledge of wine with an equal understanding of wine making itself, he founded Fattoria Cabanon. Giovanni reorganised Cabanon’s vineyards in meticulous detail. He brought together traditional wine making principles, premium wine grapes and modern viticulture techniques. Giovanni’s daughter Elena, who had worked beside him for twenty five years, since she was fourteen, took over in 2003 when Giovanni passed away.

The Cabanon Vineyards cover 40 acres at an elevation of about 350 meters above sea level, and lie at the headwaters of the river Stafora on the border between Lombardy and Piedmont. The soil is a well drained limestone-clay, and the vineyards have never been treated with chemical vineyards or fertilizers.

Although it is relatively rare here, Riesling has been around in this part of Italy for hundreds of years, and producers intense, lean, aromatic wines with loads of character. Try this one with anything involving carmelized onions, with flounder or other delicate white fish, or just drink it and don’t think too hard about it. Drink now – 2012

2008 Domaine de la Rablais Côt, Touraine, Loire Valley, France

Wednesday, November 25th, 2009

After the French revolution the Foissier family regained control of their family vineyards. In 1939, when Andrew Fossier took over the family business while his father fought in the war, the family estate began expanding and producing better quality wines. in 1977 Antoine Simoneau, the son-in-law of Andrew Fossier took over the family business, and has been carefully refining the product ever since.

Côt, known as Malbec in Southwest Franc and Argentina, has a long, and somewhat dubious history in the Loire Valley. Because of the cool climate, wines made from Côt can be thin and vegetal, as opposed to deeply extracted and full-bodied as they are in other places. But when handled by experienced growers, and planted in the correct places, Côt produces a medium – full bodied red with hints of roast meat, tobacco and lots of bright black cherry and plum fruit.

Try this wine with duck, mushrooms, and aged goat cheese. Drink now – 2012

2005 Montelvini S. Osvaldo Refosco dal Pedunculo Rosso, Lison-Pramaggiore, Italy

Wednesday, November 25th, 2009

Montelvini is a family-owned winery located in Venegazzu’, in the heart of the Veneto region in Northeast Italy. The Serena family owners have been wine producers for generations since 1882. Under the current leadership of Armando Serena the winery has made dramatic growth, becoming a modern dynamic company that successfully combines the latest techniques with the best traditional winemaking practices.

Refosco produces a full-bodied, richly fruited red wine. This wine is made from the true “red-stemmed” (pedunculo rosso) Refosco variety. The wine has a deep violet color with the aroma and flavors of Damson plums, supported by well-rounded tannins and earthy undertones. After 4 to 7 years Refosco assumes a bouquet of faded violets and dried plums.

Try this wine with cured meats, hard and semi-hard cheeses, roast root vegetables. Drink now – 2017.

2008 Moulin de Gassac Guilheim Rouge Vin de Pays de l’Herault, France

Wednesday, November 25th, 2009

When Veronique and Aîme Guibert fell in love with the rundown Daumas family farm, hidden behind dense garrigue in the Gassac valley in 1970, the last thing on their minds was producing what would improbably become the greatest wine of the Languedoc. But one thing led to another and by 1978 they had produced their, their very natural, Cabernet predominant first wine. By 1982, Mas Daumas de Gassac Rouge was recognized as one of the best red wines in France.

In 1991 the Guiberts (there was now a second generation helping with the work) were incensed by the EU’s plan to pull up many of the historic vineyards of the Languedoc in a misguided effort to reduce the oversupply of mediocre wine. They made agreements with two local cooperatives to utilize their vines in a new, premium quality wine, and thus prevent them from being pulled up. The resulting wines were released under the name Moulin de Gassac and have represented some of the best values in France since their inception.

This wine is made from 30% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 25% Carignan , and 15% Cinsault that come from vines with a minimum of 25 years of age. The wine is aged in cement vats and sees no filtration. Try it with turkey or other poultry, pork roast, or lamb. Drink now – 2013.

The Next Big Thing – November 2009

Tuesday, November 24th, 2009

This month we have a a trio of wines that are as interesting as they are delicious, and all of them are perfect to warm up a cool cold November evening. This month our home base lies in France, with a foray to California’s Central Coast for a French-inspired treat. These are all hearty wines. Drink them with gusto as you enjoy the holiday season.

To see descriptions of The Next Big Thing wines, click here

To see Descriptions of The Next Big Thing All Red wines, click here

Best Wishes

Jake

2007 Domaine Olivier Hillaire Châteauneuf du Pape

Tuesday, November 24th, 2009

Take a great vintage, like 2007 was in the Southern Rhône, old vines, and a young, up and coming producer, and that makes the perfect example of what The Next Big Thing is all about. Without further ado, I present the third vintage of Domaine Olivier Hillaire Chateauneuf du Pape.

Olivier Hillaire worked for his father-in-law Henri Boiron since 1996, when he began, with the assistance of Phillippe Cambie, to improve the reputation of the producer significantly. (for the last 3 or 4 vintages, Domaine des Relanges has produced one of my favorite wines from the region). But in 2006 Henri Boiron decided to retire and wanted to sell the property. 80% of the vineyards, and the domaine buildings were sold to Chateau Calissanne, but the remaining 8 ha, 3 in Chateauneuf du Pape and 5 of Côtes du Rhône were sold to Olivier.

It’s not that this wine is massively powerful that makes it so amazing, but rather that it is powerful while still being elegant, and that it has an unmistakable, crystalline minerality. The wine consists of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 5% Mourvedre and 5% Cinsault.. Drink it with fish, flank steak, and hard cheese. Drink now – 2030.

2005 Domaine Bernard Gripa Saint-Peray, Northern Rhône, France

Tuesday, November 24th, 2009

I always do a little research on a region before writing these pieces, to make sure that my memory of the place matches with the accepted norms. But as I was researching Saint-Peray, I came across this quote on a prominate wine website, “Finally, St Péray, a small appellation producing some unexciting still white wines.” At first, I was in disbelief that such a great region could be written off so easily, then I remembered that the only wines I had ever consumed from the region were from Bernard Gripa, and that even though they were among my favorite white rhône wines, they probably weren’t typical.

I guess that it would be fair to say that Bernard Gripa is to Saint-Peray as Jean-Luc Colombo was to Cornas: both its savoir, and it’s re-inventor. Bernard and his son Fabrice cultivate exceptional sites on steep, calcareous slopes that produce electric wines. The wines are aged in oak, on their fine lees. This wine is a blend of 80% Marsanne and 10% Roussanne.

Drink this wine with halibut, roast chicken, or mildly spiced Cantonese cuisine. Drink now – 2018.

2007 Melville Estate Verna’s Syrah Santa Barbara County, California

Tuesday, November 24th, 2009

This is one of those wines that transcends it’s place and it’s grape, and the people who make it, which, in this case, says a lot. This is a totally delicious, and hedonistically satisfying glass, and deserves to be served with no introduction.

However, it’s good to know, so here’s a little bit of info. The Sta. Rita Hills appellation is where Ron Melville and his sons Brent and Chad Melville decided to develop their estate vineyards and winery. Since then, they have also developed an interest in Rhone varietals, particularly Northern Rhone Syrah and Viognier. The Melville estate achieves quality through the integrity of its farming practice and its respect to the microclimate.

The winemaker is Greg Brewer, the central coast wunderkind responsible for the Brewer-Clifton wines. The wine sees moderate, and relatively short oak ageing. It is 80% de-stemmed, and 20% whole cluster pressed, and beyond that, there is nothing exceptional about the winemaking. Except the results.

Drink this wine with Texas style barbecue beef ribs, braised shortribs, or nearly anything meaty and a little sweet. Drink now – 2015.

2005 Domaine de Trevallon, Vin de Pays de Bouche de Rhône, France

Tuesday, November 24th, 2009

The Domaine de Trevallon is now so well-known that it is easy to forget that it is not that long ago since it was founded. One of the pioneers of the wine-growing renaissance that took place in the region around Les Baux, Eloi Dürrbach planted the first vines in the Alpilles in 1973. The Herculean task of clearing the scrubland and laying out the plots for the vines then began. The rock was broken up with dynamite, the ground was worked at deep level, mixing the splinters of rock into the soil. At last, in the winter of 1973, Eloi Dürrbach was able to plant his first 3 hectares of vines.  He produced his first Trevallon wine from the 1976 harvest.

The Domaine de Trevallon wine estate is located in Saint-Etienne-du-Grès, in the Bouches-du-Rhône, 25 km south of Avignon and 7 km west of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, on the northern slopes of the Alpilles. The Alpilles massif is made of limestone and boasts sharp, jagged crests reminiscent of a “Greek landscape”, as the Provençal poet, Frédéric Mistral, described it. The vines, growing amidst holm oaks, olive and almond trees, blend harmoniously into this enchanted scrub landscape.

The first thing that strikes the visitor as he or she arrives at the Domaine de Trevallon is this limestone rock, dazzlingly white and forming strange, splintered and craggy shapes that stand out against the limpid sky. The contrast between the straight rows of trained vines and the wild folds of rock is quite impressive. “The Alpilles is a magical land,” admits Eloi Dürrbach. “I immediately fell under their charm.”

The Trevallon vineyard covers 17 hectares of this protected zone and surrounds a large, blue-shuttered, Provençal farhouse: 15 hectares of red grapes, made up of equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Plus 2 hectares of white grapes, made up of 45 % Marsanne, 45 % Roussanne and 10 % Chardonnay.

The wine is nearly equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, and is aged in oak for over 2 years, with very little racking. The wine is never filtered, and never corrected for acidity and is fermented with natural yeasts. Very little sulphur is added. Eloi’s philosophy is to do as little as possible.

Drink this wine with herb and garlic roast lamb, a fire-grilled steak, or anything with olives. Drink 2012 – 2025.

The Champagne & Sparkling Wine Society – November 2009

Tuesday, November 24th, 2009

This month we get the rare opportunity to explore two Champagnes from the exceptional grower-producer Agrapart. A non-vintage from seven villages in the Cotes de Blancs, and a 1998 from the exceptional Grand Crus of Avize and Cramant. Along with these, you will be drinking a delightful, if rustic, Brut de Savoie that really speaks to the place it comes from.

Enjoy them in good spirits.

To see the wines from this month’s club, click here

Best wishes,

Jake

NV Jean-Paul Trocadero Brut de Savoie, France

Tuesday, November 24th, 2009

Between Lake Geneva and the river Isère, the Bauges mountains and the Chartreuse massif provide protection from the weather for the miniscule vineyards of Savoie and Haut Savoie. The combination of lakes and mountainous windbreaks make for a mild continental climate, which, combined with the extra sun exposure provide by planting on south facing mountainsides allows for long, slow even ripening of grapes. The wines that come from this region seem to reflect the freshness of the alpine streams and the lingering scents of pine.

Most of the delightful sparkling wine from the region is consumed at nearby ski resorts high in the alps, and so never makes it to our shores. It’s a shame we don’t see more wines like this. A delicious, slightly herby sparkler made from 100% Chardonnay, and with a rich, oxidative undertone. Drink this with fried things of all sorts, grilled cheese sandwiches, and sautéed bitter greens. Drink now – 2010.

Between Lake Geneva and the river Isère, the Bauges mountains and the Chartreuse massif provide protection from the weather for the miniscule vineyards of Savoie and Haut Savoie. The combination of lakes and mountainous windbreaks make for a mild continental climate, which, combined with the extra sun exposure provide by planting on south facing mountainsides allows for long, slow even ripening of grapes. The wines that come from this region seem to reflect the freshness of the alpine streams and the lingering scents of pine.

Most of the delightful sparkling wine from the region is consumed at nearby ski resorts high in the alps, and so never makes it to our shores. It’s a shame we don’t see more wines like this. A delicious, slightly herby sparkler made from 100% Chardonnay, and with a rich, oxidative undertone. Drink this with fried things of all sorts, grilled cheese sandwiches, and sautéed bitter greens. Drink now – 2010.

NV Agrapart Les 7 Crus Blanc de Blanc Brut, Champagne

Tuesday, November 24th, 2009

Founded in 1894 by Arthur Agrapart, the Great Grandfather of the current proprieters Pascal and Fabrice Agrapart, Champagne Agrapart is one of the great grower-producer Champagne houses. With 9 ha of vineyards in and around the Côtes de Blancs grand cru of Avize, Agrapart is one of the largest growers in Champange.

The wines are rich and intense rather than delicate, and have more than a little bit of Malolactic influence. But the character of these 100% Chardonnay wines comes from more than winemaking: they inevitably have a stunning minerality, and a beautifully complex nose that has developed during their generous bottle ageing.

Pascal and Fabrice own vineyards in over 60 different parcels throughout the Côte de Blancs. The average age of the vines is 35 years, with some as old as 60 years. No chemical pesticides or fertilizers are ever used, and the vineyards are farmed manually to promote deep root growth. All wines are aged in 600 liter old oak demi-muids (the older the better says Pascal).

This wines name comes from the seven villages in the Côte de Blancs from which the grapes come: Avize, Cramant, Oger, Oiry, Avenay Val d’Or, Bergères-les-Vertus and Mardeuil. It is a blend of multiple vintages, but primarily the 2004 and 2005. The wine is aged for 3 years on its lees before disgorgement.

Try this wine with smoked salmon, crab cakes, or a veal chop. Drink now – 2012+

1998 Agrapart Minéral Blanc de Blancs Brut, Avize, Champagne, France

Tuesday, November 24th, 2009

Sometimes, when a producer is this good, I just can’t think of other producers until I’ve used up my options. So, with that in mind, another selection from Agrapart.

Founded in 1894 by Arthur Agrapart, the Great Grandfather of the current proprieters Pascal and Fabrice Agrapart, Champagne Agrapart is one of the great grower-producer Champagne houses. With 9 ha of vineyards in and around the Côtes de Blancs grand cru of Avize, Agrapart is one of the largest growers in Champange.

The wines are rich and intense rather than delicate, and have more than a little bit of Malolactic influence. But the character of these 100% Chardonnay wines comes from more than winemaking: they inevitably have a stunning minerality, and a beautifully complex nose that has developed during their generous bottle ageing.

Pascal and Fabrice own vineyards in over 60 different parcels throughout the Côte de Blancs. The average age of the vines is 35 years, with some as old as 60 years. No chemical pesticides or fertilizers are ever used, and the vineyards are farmed manually to promote deep root growth. All wines are aged in 600 liter old oak demi-muids (the older the better says Pascal).

This wine comes from very calcareous sites in Avize and Cramant (both Grand Crus). The wines are unfiltered, aged in 600 liter demi-muids, go through complete malolactic fermentation, and are aged for 5 years on the lees before disgorgement. This is an exceptional wine.

Try it with good caviar, simple fish stock based soups, or butter poached lobster. Drink now – 2018

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