Wines from the Champagne and Sparkling Wine Society Shipment November 2009
This month we get the rare opportunity to explore two Champagnes from the exceptional grower-producer Agrapart. A non-vintage from seven villages in the Cotes de Blancs, and a 1998 from the exceptional Grand Crus of Avize and Cramant. Along with these, you will be drinking a delightful, if rustic, Brut de Savoie that really speaks to the place it comes from.
Enjoy them in good spirits.
To see the wines from this month’s club, click here
Best wishes,
Jake
Between Lake Geneva and the river Isère, the Bauges mountains and the Chartreuse massif provide protection from the weather for the miniscule vineyards of Savoie and Haut Savoie. The combination of lakes and mountainous windbreaks make for a mild continental climate, which, combined with the extra sun exposure provide by planting on south facing mountainsides allows for long, slow even ripening of grapes. The wines that come from this region seem to reflect the freshness of the alpine streams and the lingering scents of pine.
Most of the delightful sparkling wine from the region is consumed at nearby ski resorts high in the alps, and so never makes it to our shores. It’s a shame we don’t see more wines like this. A delicious, slightly herby sparkler made from 100% Chardonnay, and with a rich, oxidative undertone. Drink this with fried things of all sorts, grilled cheese sandwiches, and sautéed bitter greens. Drink now – 2010.
Between Lake Geneva and the river Isère, the Bauges mountains and the Chartreuse massif provide protection from the weather for the miniscule vineyards of Savoie and Haut Savoie. The combination of lakes and mountainous windbreaks make for a mild continental climate, which, combined with the extra sun exposure provide by planting on south facing mountainsides allows for long, slow even ripening of grapes. The wines that come from this region seem to reflect the freshness of the alpine streams and the lingering scents of pine.
Most of the delightful sparkling wine from the region is consumed at nearby ski resorts high in the alps, and so never makes it to our shores. It’s a shame we don’t see more wines like this. A delicious, slightly herby sparkler made from 100% Chardonnay, and with a rich, oxidative undertone. Drink this with fried things of all sorts, grilled cheese sandwiches, and sautéed bitter greens. Drink now – 2010.
Founded in 1894 by Arthur Agrapart, the Great Grandfather of the current proprieters Pascal and Fabrice Agrapart, Champagne Agrapart is one of the great grower-producer Champagne houses. With 9 ha of vineyards in and around the Côtes de Blancs grand cru of Avize, Agrapart is one of the largest growers in Champange.
The wines are rich and intense rather than delicate, and have more than a little bit of Malolactic influence. But the character of these 100% Chardonnay wines comes from more than winemaking: they inevitably have a stunning minerality, and a beautifully complex nose that has developed during their generous bottle ageing.
Pascal and Fabrice own vineyards in over 60 different parcels throughout the Côte de Blancs. The average age of the vines is 35 years, with some as old as 60 years. No chemical pesticides or fertilizers are ever used, and the vineyards are farmed manually to promote deep root growth. All wines are aged in 600 liter old oak demi-muids (the older the better says Pascal).
This wines name comes from the seven villages in the Côte de Blancs from which the grapes come: Avize, Cramant, Oger, Oiry, Avenay Val d’Or, Bergères-les-Vertus and Mardeuil. It is a blend of multiple vintages, but primarily the 2004 and 2005. The wine is aged for 3 years on its lees before disgorgement.
Try this wine with smoked salmon, crab cakes, or a veal chop. Drink now – 2012+
Sometimes, when a producer is this good, I just can’t think of other producers until I’ve used up my options. So, with that in mind, another selection from Agrapart.
Founded in 1894 by Arthur Agrapart, the Great Grandfather of the current proprieters Pascal and Fabrice Agrapart, Champagne Agrapart is one of the great grower-producer Champagne houses. With 9 ha of vineyards in and around the Côtes de Blancs grand cru of Avize, Agrapart is one of the largest growers in Champange.
The wines are rich and intense rather than delicate, and have more than a little bit of Malolactic influence. But the character of these 100% Chardonnay wines comes from more than winemaking: they inevitably have a stunning minerality, and a beautifully complex nose that has developed during their generous bottle ageing.
Pascal and Fabrice own vineyards in over 60 different parcels throughout the Côte de Blancs. The average age of the vines is 35 years, with some as old as 60 years. No chemical pesticides or fertilizers are ever used, and the vineyards are farmed manually to promote deep root growth. All wines are aged in 600 liter old oak demi-muids (the older the better says Pascal).
This wine comes from very calcareous sites in Avize and Cramant (both Grand Crus). The wines are unfiltered, aged in 600 liter demi-muids, go through complete malolactic fermentation, and are aged for 5 years on the lees before disgorgement. This is an exceptional wine.
Try it with good caviar, simple fish stock based soups, or butter poached lobster. Drink now – 2018
