Next Big Thing All Red - Nov '09

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All of the wines shipped for the November 2009 The Next Big Thing

 

The Next Big Thing – November 2009

Tuesday, November 24th, 2009

This month we have a a trio of wines that are as interesting as they are delicious, and all of them are perfect to warm up a cool cold November evening. This month our home base lies in France, with a foray to California’s Central Coast for a French-inspired treat. These are all hearty wines. Drink them with gusto as you enjoy the holiday season.

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Best Wishes

Jake

2007 Domaine Olivier Hillaire Châteauneuf du Pape

Tuesday, November 24th, 2009

Take a great vintage, like 2007 was in the Southern Rhône, old vines, and a young, up and coming producer, and that makes the perfect example of what The Next Big Thing is all about. Without further ado, I present the third vintage of Domaine Olivier Hillaire Chateauneuf du Pape.

Olivier Hillaire worked for his father-in-law Henri Boiron since 1996, when he began, with the assistance of Phillippe Cambie, to improve the reputation of the producer significantly. (for the last 3 or 4 vintages, Domaine des Relanges has produced one of my favorite wines from the region). But in 2006 Henri Boiron decided to retire and wanted to sell the property. 80% of the vineyards, and the domaine buildings were sold to Chateau Calissanne, but the remaining 8 ha, 3 in Chateauneuf du Pape and 5 of Côtes du Rhône were sold to Olivier.

It’s not that this wine is massively powerful that makes it so amazing, but rather that it is powerful while still being elegant, and that it has an unmistakable, crystalline minerality. The wine consists of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 5% Mourvedre and 5% Cinsault.. Drink it with fish, flank steak, and hard cheese. Drink now – 2030.

2007 Melville Estate Verna’s Syrah Santa Barbara County, California

Tuesday, November 24th, 2009

This is one of those wines that transcends it’s place and it’s grape, and the people who make it, which, in this case, says a lot. This is a totally delicious, and hedonistically satisfying glass, and deserves to be served with no introduction.

However, it’s good to know, so here’s a little bit of info. The Sta. Rita Hills appellation is where Ron Melville and his sons Brent and Chad Melville decided to develop their estate vineyards and winery. Since then, they have also developed an interest in Rhone varietals, particularly Northern Rhone Syrah and Viognier. The Melville estate achieves quality through the integrity of its farming practice and its respect to the microclimate.

The winemaker is Greg Brewer, the central coast wunderkind responsible for the Brewer-Clifton wines. The wine sees moderate, and relatively short oak ageing. It is 80% de-stemmed, and 20% whole cluster pressed, and beyond that, there is nothing exceptional about the winemaking. Except the results.

Drink this wine with Texas style barbecue beef ribs, braised shortribs, or nearly anything meaty and a little sweet. Drink now – 2015.

2005 Domaine de Trevallon, Vin de Pays de Bouche de Rhône, France

Tuesday, November 24th, 2009

The Domaine de Trevallon is now so well-known that it is easy to forget that it is not that long ago since it was founded. One of the pioneers of the wine-growing renaissance that took place in the region around Les Baux, Eloi Dürrbach planted the first vines in the Alpilles in 1973. The Herculean task of clearing the scrubland and laying out the plots for the vines then began. The rock was broken up with dynamite, the ground was worked at deep level, mixing the splinters of rock into the soil. At last, in the winter of 1973, Eloi Dürrbach was able to plant his first 3 hectares of vines.  He produced his first Trevallon wine from the 1976 harvest.

The Domaine de Trevallon wine estate is located in Saint-Etienne-du-Grès, in the Bouches-du-Rhône, 25 km south of Avignon and 7 km west of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, on the northern slopes of the Alpilles. The Alpilles massif is made of limestone and boasts sharp, jagged crests reminiscent of a “Greek landscape”, as the Provençal poet, Frédéric Mistral, described it. The vines, growing amidst holm oaks, olive and almond trees, blend harmoniously into this enchanted scrub landscape.

The first thing that strikes the visitor as he or she arrives at the Domaine de Trevallon is this limestone rock, dazzlingly white and forming strange, splintered and craggy shapes that stand out against the limpid sky. The contrast between the straight rows of trained vines and the wild folds of rock is quite impressive. “The Alpilles is a magical land,” admits Eloi Dürrbach. “I immediately fell under their charm.”

The Trevallon vineyard covers 17 hectares of this protected zone and surrounds a large, blue-shuttered, Provençal farhouse: 15 hectares of red grapes, made up of equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Plus 2 hectares of white grapes, made up of 45 % Marsanne, 45 % Roussanne and 10 % Chardonnay.

The wine is nearly equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, and is aged in oak for over 2 years, with very little racking. The wine is never filtered, and never corrected for acidity and is fermented with natural yeasts. Very little sulphur is added. Eloi’s philosophy is to do as little as possible.

Drink this wine with herb and garlic roast lamb, a fire-grilled steak, or anything with olives. Drink 2012 – 2025.

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