October '09
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All of the wines from the October Clubs
Wednesday, October 21st, 2009
It’s wineclub time again. This month, I’ve found six wines for you that are truly delightful. All are exciting, and a few have the power to change the way you think about wine. Selections range from Chile to Oregon, and New Zealand to Galicia, with a few stops along the way.
Don’t forget that these have to last you all month, because I’m quite sure that you will have trouble waiting to drink them all. Anyway, drink them with good health.
To see what you got, click the appropriate link:
Extraordinary Wines From Off the Beaten Path
Extraordinary Wines From Off the Beaten Path All Red
Extraordinary Wines From Off the Beaten Path Three Bottles
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Wednesday, October 21st, 2009
10 years ago, Oregon white wine used to be dominated by field blends. Some of them are still around, such as Sokol Blosser Evolution. These were always fun wines, ranging from very classy to sweet and simple, but never boring. Though Daedelus Cellars wasn’t around back in the heyday of these blends, they have given a noteworthy effort here.
Only 550 cases of this blend of 50% Pinot Blanc, 28% Pinot Gris, 14% Gewürztraminer, 8% Riesling were made, which already sets it apart from the old days, where these were the mass produced wines of wineries whose reputation had been made on Pinot Noir. The grapes come from vineyards throughout Oregon, and the wine has an appropriately worldly air.
The wine has an amazingly spicy, aromatic nose that it achieves with no help from oak, there is none here, but a restrained, crisp, dry palate that will please the most stalwart dry wine consumers. It’s really a fabulous combination. Try this with light fish, egg dishes (quiche), and as a delightful aperitif or luncheon wine. Drink now – 2010.
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Tags: Gewurztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling
Wednesday, October 21st, 2009
Situated in the tiny village of Sorbo Serpico in Campania’s Irpinia region, this highly acclaimed estate was established in 1986. Along with the expert guidance of consulting enologist Riccardo Cotarella, one of Italy’s most esteemed winemaking talents, Feudi di San Gregorio has emerged into the international limelight as a great success story in a region that, for many years, was locked in a virtual winemaking holding pattern.
Feudi di San Gregorio has aggressively tapped into the enormous potential of Campania’s unique terroir and ancient varietals by placing a thoroughly modern spin on indigenous grapes such as Falanghina and Aglianico. Falanghina is one of the great native varieties of Italy’s diverse Campania region. It is a pale white grape that makes rich wines that are retain a powerful acidity and offer up floral flavors and aromas ranging from apples to tropical fruit to citrus.
Feudi di San Gregorio’s grapes for this wine come from high-altitude vineyards in Campania’s Sannio Region, and from vines that are between 18 and 25 years old. This is a great wine for shellfish . . . especially shrimp and lobster, and it also goes wonderfully with scalloped potatoes and pasta in cream sauces. Drink now – 2011
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Tags: Campania, Falanghina, Irpinia, Riccardo Cotarella, Serpico
Wednesday, October 21st, 2009
There is always room for another great New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc in my fridge. This is the best I’ve had in a long time, and though there wasn’t room for the six I bought for myself, I solved the problem by drinking two as soon as they arrived!
This is a high-tech operation located in Marlborough New Zealand, with another winery in Waipara. And though they aren’t shy about using technology, they also believe that the wines are “made in the vineyard” and take incredible care of their fruit. This is especially important with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, because at it’s best, the winemakers barely make it all, they just through the grapes into a crusher destemmer, and let them ferment in a stainless steel tank for a few weeks, then keep them cool so that they settle, and through them in bottles.
This wine tastes like nothing so much as Sauvignon Blanc grapes, and that is a glorious thing. Gooseberry, grapefruit, lime leaf, grass and ripe bell pepper with hints of more exotic passionfruit and jalapeño in the background. There’s plenty of lively acidity here, and TONS of vivacious fruit. Drink this with goat cheese, steamed mussels, or poached fish. Drink now – 2011
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Tags: Marlborough, New Zealand, Sauvignon Blanc
Wednesday, October 21st, 2009
Campo de Borja is a transitional area among the mountains of the Sistema Ibérico in the Ebro Valley. The setting is unique, with the impressive mountains of the Moncayo National Park in the background. The Romans built the actual hydrological system of Ainzon almost two thousand years ago and were the first to plant vines.
Bodega Quo is located in Ainzon, in Northern Aragon. The vineyards extend onto the slopes of the nearby mountains, with vines planted between 1000 and 2000 feet with an average yield of only 4500 kg/Has.
The vineyards have a continental climate influenced by the Atlantic ocean in winter and by the Mediterranean in summer. The soil is brown-calcareous, with medium amounts of stones and good drainage. In the vineyards closer to the Moncayo mountains, the soil is clay-ferrous and rocky. The temperature contrasts between day and night, and among the seasons, are extreme. Rainfall is rare, with yearly averages between 350 mm in the low areas and reaching to about 450 mm in higher areas.
This wine is made from 80% Garnacha and 20% Tempranillo, fermented and aged in traditional glass-line cement vats using only indigenous yeasts. Think about dusty raspberries, white pepper, cherries, and energy. Try this with pork chops, white fish, or a BLT. Drink now – 2012.
Posted in Off the Beaten Path all red - Oct 09 | No Responses »
Tags: Campo de Borja, Garnacha, Moncayo National Park
Wednesday, October 21st, 2009
That there are two wines in a single shipment from Chile’s Colchagua Valley should give you an idea about how I feel about this region. Ever since Pioneering Chilean Winemaker Aurelio Montés set up shop high in the mountains here, the region has been producing one good wine after the next.
Initiated in 1997, MontGras’ Ninquén Project was born of an appreciation for the unique properties of the specific terroir on Ninquén Mountain in Chile’s Colchagua Valley, and an ambition to forge a name for MontGras in the elite ultra-premium category. 222 acres atop Ninquén were dedicated to the venture and planted with a range of red grape varieties. With this move, MontGras became Chile’s first winery to plant atop the plateau of a mountain (Ninquén means “plateau on a mountain” in ancient local dialect).
Paul Hobbs, a leading California winemaker with an international reputation for developing world-class South American wines, works closely with owner Hernán Gras and winemaker Santiago Margozzini to craft the limited production Antu wines from the Ninquén Mountain Estate vineyard. The range takes its name from the word for “sun” in the language of the ancient Mapuche people who once inhabited this part of Chile.
A blend of 88% Syrah and 12% Cabernet Sauvignon for structure, this is one of those great wines that risks being forgotten because Syrah isn’t a well known grape from Chile. This wine is aged for 18 months in new French oak barrels, and is bursting with wild blackberry, pepper, grilled meat, smoke and baking spice . . . a real showstopper. Try it with barbecue ribs, chicken mole, or a hamburger. Drink now – 2016
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Tags: Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua, Hernan Gras, Ninquen, Paul Hobbs, Santiago Margozzini, Syrah
Wednesday, October 21st, 2009
Here is a winery I know very little about, except that their Anjou-Village Rouge is delicious. They are primarily known for their Coteaux de Layon, a sweet Chenin Blanc that is also a treat. Here is what the importer says:
The long history of the winery spans 5 decades. 1949, Alfred Bidet created the estate. From 1968-1973, he realized his big project: plantation in terraces of the hill overlooking the river Layon; “La Magdelaine” and “Le Clos des Cocus” in order to produce the finest Coteaux du Layon.
1986, when Alfred stopped, Sylvaine Bidet and Luc Arenou came back to the vineyard to develop the commercial side of business, improve the quality of the wines cultivating the vines with the passion of the siols. Each reserve corresponds to a distinct “terroir”.
This wine, likely made from 60% Cabernet Franc and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon (I didn’t take very good notes when I found it) is a delicious, medium-full-bodied quaffer with all of the best of Cabernet Franc. Blueberry and currant fruit, tobacco and bell pepper, and a distinctive minerality in a wine that shows both enjoyable richness, and a pretty powerful acidity. Try this with hard cheese, duck, or a pork roast. Drink now – 2013
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Tags: Alfred Bidet, Anjou-Village, Cabernet Franc
Wednesday, October 21st, 2009
In 1994 the Martinez family, owners of Bodegas Faustino, the single largest producer of Reserva and Gran Reserva wines from Spain’s renowned Rioja region, bought the 1,477-acre Finca Los Trenzones estate in the province of La Mancha. Among its key natural attributes, estate vineyards are located some 2,500 feet above sea level – some of the highest plantings in the area. Here the grapes mature in an ideal environment of hot summer days and correspondingly cool nights. Underground water sources provide ideal conditions for irrigation. More than 100 acres of vines are dedicated exclusively to organic trials.
Julio Martinez has made it his personal quest to realize the untapped potential of La Mancha wines, with the long-term goal of establishing the wines of La Mancha on the same level as other top quality wine regions of Spain. To bring his vision to reality, Martinez selected the Finca Los Trenzones property on account of its prime vineyard location.
Condesa de Leganza Crianza is the first wine to be released from the revitalized Finca Los Trenzones estate.
This 100% Tempranillo is aged for one year in new American Oak barrels. Try it with lamb or grilled meat, or with hearty vegetarian fare like roast squash or sweet potatoes. Drink now – 2012
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Tags: Faustino, Finca los Trenzones, La Mancha, Martinez, Tempranillo
Wednesday, October 21st, 2009
Carménère gets a bad rap. I think it’s because it was mistaken for Merlot in Chile for so long, and probably not grown very well. But I’ve always like the medium-bodied, gamy black fruit character that the best have to offer. This is a great example from one of Chile’s longtime superstars.
Santa Rita is the Chilean equivelant of Château Ste. Michelle, in that they are behemoths, and dominate the wine production in their region (in Santa Rita’s case, the Central Valley of Chile). Santa Rita also produces an amazing array of wines, and, much like Château Ste. Michelle, they are almost all good. Normally, a wine from a giant producer like this would never make it to Extraordinary Wines from Off the Beaten Path, but I tasted this a few weeks ago, and it is delicious! And rules are made to be broken.
The grapes for this wine come from a single estate in the Colchagua Valley that straddles the subregions of Marchigüe (90%) and Apalta (10%). They are hand harvested, destemmed, cold soaked and given an extra long 20 day maceration after the fermentation to extract lots of color and structure and spicy aromatics. The finished wine is then aged in French oak for extended periods.
This fullish bodied wine is perfect for roasts of all sorts, and is also a great accompaniment to braised greens (trust me!) and anything with bacon. Drink now – 2013.
Posted in Off The Beaten Path Three Bottles - Oct 09, Off the Beaten Path - Oct '09, Off the Beaten Path all red - Oct 09 | No Responses »
Tags: Caremenere, Chile, Merlot, Santa Rita
Wednesday, October 21st, 2009
This is what I call a “concept wine” and I usually stay clear of them, except when they are really good. It helps that this come from Bierzo in Galicia, Spain, and is made (as most of the very few wines from here are) of Mencia, probably the most exciting regional variety in Spain. To understand what Mencia is like, think about a plumy Pinot Noir with more body, and less polish, but tons of great fruit, and tons of character. Then forget about what I said and drink it, because it’s delicious. But back to the concept part, this is a special cuvée created by one of my favorite importers, Eric Solomon, by Martin Codax, one of the great cooperatives of the wold, that is based in Galicia’s nearby region of Rias Baixas. Here is how Eric Solomon explains this wine:
Cuatro Pasos: The discovery of four bear footprints in a magnificent vineyard in the highest areas of the Bierzo inspired the name of this wine. Four firm steps are necessary to reach excellence: the selection of the land, the care of the vine, a suitable climate and carefulness in the elaboration.
Four places: Otero, Hornija, Corullón y Valtuille with four different stories that define the character of their people and vines. And this is how Four Steps came about, 100% Mencía elaborated from grapes chosen from the over 80-year-old vines from the slated lands located in the high areas of the Bierzo region. After it’s vinification, its maturation is carried out in barrels of oak from four different woods: American, Allier, Limousine, and Nevers.
Even if four isn’t your lucky number, this wine is awfully good. Try it with Salmon or other hearty fish, ham, or paella. Drink now – 2011
Posted in Off The Beaten Path Three Bottles - Oct 09, Off the Beaten Path - Oct '09, Off the Beaten Path all red - Oct 09 | No Responses »
Tags: Bierzo, Eric Solomon, Martin Codax, Mencia
Wednesday, October 21st, 2009
Just to keep up with the weather, this month’s club is a wild one. Three Methode Champenoise Sparklers, but one is made from Grüner Veltliner from Austria, another is made from Riesling from Germany, and finally, the last is Pinot Noir from Champagne. The wines are exceptional, if a little unusual, and all deserve a place in our glass.
As always, drink them in good health.
To see what you’ve got coming, click the following link:
The Champagne and Sparkling Wine Society
Just to keep up with the weather, this month’s club is a wild one. Three Methode Champenoise Sparklers, but one is made from Grüner Veltliner from Austria, another is made from Riesling from Germany, and finally, the last is Pinot Noir from Champagne. The wines are exceptional, if a little unusual, and all deserve a place in our glass.
As always, drink them in good health.
Thank you,
Jake
Posted in Champagne and Sparkling Wine Society - Oct 09 | No Responses »
Wednesday, October 21st, 2009
While it is somewhat of an oddity, this is one of my favorite sparkling wines of all time. The Szigeti family has made wine in the Neusidlersee region of Austria for generations, but it was only when the sons Peter and Norbert took over from their parents that the family began to produce Traditional Methode Sparkling wines from the wide variety of grapes that grew in their vineyards. The facility was designed with Champagne in mind, and the wines are made in much the same way, with the exception that the warm Panonian winds, and reflected sun from the giant, and shallow, lake Nuesidl ripens the grapes much more than the weather in Champagne.
The result is that the grapes show their varieties more intensely in these wines, and, surprisingly, that is good. In this case, we are drinking a champagne method sparkling wine made from Austria’s most famous, and often misunderstood grape Grüner Veltliner. The results are delightful. The wine is creamy, with a hint of white pepper and tons of citrus and peach along with layers of more subtle, more complex, aromas and flavors. And the texture is pure delight.
Try this with traditional Champenoise foods like fish quenelles, caviar, and oysters, but also with fried chicken, or even with a bitter green salad. Drink now – 2010.
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Tags: Austria, Brut, Gruner Veltliner, Methode Champenoise, Norbert Szigeti, Nuseidlersee
Wednesday, October 21st, 2009
When I chose this month’s wines, I had no idea that two of the wines were made by people named Norbert. What are the chances?
Considered one of the finest sparkling wine producers in Germany, the Barth estate specialty is traditional method sparkling wine (German Sekt). Norbert Barth, as a VDP winemaker, has crafted a traditional sparkling wine using his unique blend and all of the steps of the Méthode Champenoise. Each wine spends 18-36 months on the yeast and is then hand riddled and disgorged upon order to ensure maximum freshness!
This wine is proof to me that the oft maligned German Sekt industry is capable of making sublime wines. It also proves, especially in concert with the Grüner Veltliner above, that having a little varietal character in a sparkling wine can be an asset. Though I wouldn’t necessarily guess that this was Riesling, when someone tells me it is, it seems obvious, like I’ve known all along. There is something about the crisp, minerally, lime and meyer lemon aromas that echo the siren song of a great Rheingau still Riesling.
Try this with schnitzel, white sausage like weisswürst (or boudin blanc), or as an aperitif extraordinaire. Drink it now – 2011.
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Tags: Norbert Barth, Rheingau, Riesling, Sekt
Wednesday, October 21st, 2009
It’s raining outside, but we can’t let that get us down. So I have made a vinous car package that will dry out the wettest soul. Three delicious, and very cool wines that are as interesting as they are scarce, and more delicious than all of that.
Drink them in good health.
To see what you’ve got coming, click on the appropriate link
The Next Big Thing
The Next Big Thing All Red
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Wednesday, October 21st, 2009
The Blees-Ferber estate is located on a hill above Leiwen in the Bernkastel area, showcasing a beautiful view of the Mosel and the surrounding vineyards. Since winemaker Stefan Blees has taken over production of this family-owned estate in the mid-nineties, he has successfully increased the quality of the estate’s wines year over year. The estate’s vineyards stretch over a total territory of 7.8 hectares, producing an annual average of 50,000 bottles.
The famous Goldtröpfchen vineyard has long put the winegrowing community of Piesport on the global map. It is one of the most famous sites along the Mosel. Because the Mosel is following an S-curve here, the Piesporter Goldtröpfchen is shaped like a southward facing amphitheater, allowing it to soak up the sun all day long and even at night, when the river releases some of the warmth it has captured during the day. The site is extremely steep with drops that range between 40 – 100% and is known for its light soil based on slate. The Piesporter Gärtchen is a parcel that is situated with the Piesporter Goldtröpfchen vineyard and is solely owned by Stefan Blees. He produces many of his finest sweet wines from this site.
Though this wine is certainly sweet, and definitely botrytis affected, and its 500ml size suggests that it is a dessert wine, it’s got such wonderful concentration, acidity and minerality, it almost comes off as not sweet. And in 15 – 20 years, when it’s really at its peak, the wine will show very little outright sweetness. This is a really wonderful wine. If you drink it now, it is perfect for cheese, or foie gras, but if you hold onto it for 15 years, it’s a wonderful wine with rich fish dishes, or with veal. Drink now, or from 2024 – 2050.
Posted in The Next Big Thing - Oct 09 | No Responses »
Tags: Auslese, Piesporter Gartchen, Riesling, Stefan Blees
Wednesday, October 21st, 2009
In 1998, Finca Allende and Vila Viniteca formed a partnership to embark on a new project in La Rioja called ‘Paisajes y Viñedos’ (Landscapes & Vineyards). With Miguel Angel de Gregorio’s wide knowledge of La Rioja (Finca Allende) and his winemaking experience, the pair embarked on a negociant-like business selecting each year different vineyards belonging to different owners. The sites are selected based on their geographical qualities so that very elegant and unique wines can be made.
The grapes are chosen and purchased –normally at above market price- and vinified thereafter giving each type of ‘Paisajes’ a very different process of vinification. The aging and bottling process then takes place at Finca Allende. Originally, the Rioja Appellation of Origin Bureau forbids printing the town, the vineyard or origin name on the label. As a result each wine or vineyard is assigned a number to identify each type of ‘Paisajes’. In 2003, the laws loosened a bit and now vineyard names are included on some of the Paisajes wines. Some ‘Paisajes’ are placed on the market every year, others may skip one or two vintages if quality required is not acquired.
Made from 100% Garnacha, from 85 year old vines in the Cecias Vineyad in Rioja Baja. The wine is aged in new French oak for 12 months, and a further year in bottle. It is full-bodied, with layered raspberry, black cherry, leather, smoke and white pepper aromas and flavors, a distinctly chalky minerality and a long finish. Try this with roast lamb, grilled fish, or just about anything that isn’t too sweet, its an amazing wine on its own, but even more amazing with food. Drink 2011 – 2025.
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Wednesday, October 21st, 2009
Stewart Boedecker and Athena Pappas are winemakers on the rise. They are also very cool people. They recently moved from of the Carlton winemakers’ studio to shiny new urban digs in Portland. They recently received more than a little notoriety when a number of critics including the ever present Gary Vaynerchuck got very excited about their Stewart Pinot Noir (they make an Athena Cuvée and a Stewart Cuvée because they can’t ever agree on style), which sold out in days.
This wine, from the lovely 2004 vintage, comes from the very exciting Biodynamically farmed Momtzai Vineyad in the McMinnville AVA of the Willamette Valley. The wines from this vineyard are always meaty and rich, but surprisingly light on their feet. This a great example, and one of my favorite wines from the vineyard.
Only 50 cases of this sublime nectar were produced, and this is the last of it, but drink it with gusto, because it’s amazing. Try it with duck, mushrooms, or blue cheese. Drink now – 2018
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Wednesday, October 21st, 2009
In 1886, there were only 6.653 hectares of vineyards in Mendoza. Tiburcio Benegas, the Governor of the Province at the time, was also a pioneer in viticulture and viniculture. In order to promote this activity, he obtained a loan of 5.000.000 pesos oro from Europe, with which he founded the Bank of Mendoza, and set to the construction of dams and rubblework ditches in the Mendoza River to increase the vineyard plantations.
Tiburcio founded Trapiche, which remained in the family until it was dissolved in the 70’s. All that remained was the Finca Libertad Vineyard that Tiburcio originally planted in Cruz de Piedra in the 1880’s. Now run by Frederico Benegas Lynch, and given winemaking assistance by the famous Michel Rolland, Bodega Benegas is making seriously good wine.
From the most antique vineyards of Finca Libertad and after evolving for 18 months in new French oak barrels 3.000 bottles of this greatly balanced blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (40-60 year old vines), Cabernet Franc (100 year old vines), Merlot and Petit Verdot are born.
Try it with a steak, or Berkshire Pork, or short ribs, or something else meaty. Drink now – 2020.
Posted in The Next Big Thing All Red - Oct 09 | No Responses »
