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2006 Bodegas Naia Naiades, Rueda, Spain

Monday, July 20th, 2009

NaiadesVerdejo from Rueda is one of the many recent success stories in Spain. Rueda has a perfect continental climate, with cold winters, hot summers, and all of its precipitation concentrated in the winter. In the past, the hot, dry summers caused the native Verdejo grape, which is prone to oxidation, to produce wines that were nutty and lacking in acidity and fruit. But along came temperature control (about 25 years ago, brought by Marqués de Riscal, who single-handedly revived the area) and Verdejo began to show that it is a bright, vibrant, fruity and unique grape variety. The number of delicious wines made in a variety of styles from Rueda Verdejo is hard to fathom (see this great NY Verdejo vines at Naia in wintertimes article for some really good suggestions about others to look for). What is especially nice is that Rueda, through modern winemaking techniques, has managed to keep their unique native grape as the focus of their region, adding to, rather than taking away from the variety available in the world. (a great article in the NYTimes about Rueda)

Verdejo bears a lot of flavor similarity to Sauvignon Blanc, particularly in the crisp, herby nature of the fruit. But it also has similarities to Viognier, in the intensity of it’s fruit, and to Grüner Veltliner in its spiciness. All in all, a very exciting, and often very delicious addition to our wine drinking routine.

Harvest at NaiaThe three owners of Bodegas Naia are: Javier Alen, who owns the Viña Mein winery in the Ribeiro D.O. region. Victor Rodriguez, formerly a director of the highly acclaimed food and wine magazine Vino y Gastronomia, and Eulogio Calleja, a highly regarded winemaker in Rueda. Bodegas Naia is one of the top producers of Verdejo, and this is their top wine, a selection from the 5 hectares of pre-phyloxera, ungrafted, 100+ year-old Verdejo vines that have achingly low yields. After being harvested at night (to ensure the grapes are cool and prevent oxidation) this wine is barrel fermented and aged in French Oak for 8 months on the lees. The result is a delightfully fruity wine, with hints of spiciness and herbs, and a creamy mouthfeel.

Try this wine with sopa Castellana (soup with eggs, bread, ham, garlic), anything with fresh goat cheese, or grilled figs (no sugar please) or other grilled fruit. In truth, it’s really flexible wine. Drink now – 2011

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