This is what I call a “concept wine” and I usually stay clear of them, except when they are really good. It helps that this come from Bierzo in Galicia, Spain, and is made (as most of the very few wines from here are) of Mencia, probably the most exciting regional variety in Spain. To understand what Mencia is like, think about a plumy Pinot Noir with more body, and less polish, but tons of great fruit, and tons of character. Then forget about what I said and drink it, because it’s delicious. But back to the concept part, this is a special cuvée created by one of my favorite importers, Eric Solomon, by Martin Codax, one of the great cooperatives of the wold, that is based in Galicia’s nearby region of Rias Baixas. Here is how Eric Solomon explains this wine:

Cuatro Pasos: The discovery of four bear footprints in a magnificent vineyard in the highest areas of the Bierzo inspired the name of this wine. Four firm steps are necessary to reach excellence: the selection of the land, the care of the vine, a suitable climate and carefulness in the elaboration.

Four places: Otero, Hornija, Corullón y Valtuille with four different stories that define the character of their people and vines. And this is how Four Steps came about, 100% Mencía elaborated from grapes chosen from the over 80-year-old vines from the slated lands located in the high areas of the Bierzo region. After it’s vinification, its maturation is carried out in barrels of oak from four different woods: American, Allier, Limousine, and Nevers.

Even if four isn’t your lucky number, this wine is awfully good. Try it with Salmon or other hearty fish, ham, or paella. Drink now – 2011