Pierre et Monique Luneau-Papin head this 30-hectare estate in Le Landreau, in the heart of Muscadet country, where small hamlets dot a landscape of vineyards on low hills. Their estate, also known as Domaine Pierre de la Grange, has been in existence since the early 18th century when it was already planted with Melon de Bourgogne, the Muscadet varietal. Pierre and Monique are the eighth generation of winemakers in the family. Pierre is a genial, low-key, distracted professor type. He’s the winemaker and vineyard work supervisor. His wife Monique, lively, energetic and equally genial, is the business manager.

But Muscadet is one thing, and Gros Plant another.   Gros Plant is the local name for Folle Blanche, a grape that reaches its apex as a neutral base wine to be distilled into Cognac or Armagnac.    Gros Plant has been a widely planted grape near the Atlantic coast for some time, and provides the country wine for this part of the Loire Valley.

Luneau Papin treats Gros Plant in the same manner as their Melon, and the results are delightful.  The wine is fruitier than Muscadet, with a powerful acidity that makes it feel incredibly refreshing.  This is a wine to try with salads, goat cheese, fresh water fish, and just to quench your thirst on a warm afternoon.  Drink now – 2010 (don’t save it!)