Cabardés sits directly west of Minervois, and just ten miles from the ancient walled city of Carcassone, perched atop the Montaigne Noire, at the place where Southwest France’s Atlantic climate and attitudes meet Languedoc’s Mediterranean climate and attitudes. As such, the grapes here are an unusual mixture of Bordeaux Varieties (min 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, min 40% Grenache and Syrah, and up to 20% Cot and Fer Servadou). As are the wines. No region embraces them warmly, though they are technically part of the department of Languedoc. Cabardés is also a recent appellation, though winemaking here goes back as far as anywhere in France, since 1998. The result is that no one knows about these delightful, and delightfully original wines.
Château de Jouclary is owned by Robert and Pascal Gianesini, who have been making exceptional wines from their 60 ha estate. Rather than use all of the permitted red grapes, they have focused on the three which they believe grow best on their property: Merlot, Grenache and Syrah. The Merlot makes up the majority of the wine, and provides the background, while Syrah and Grenache from the rocky upper slopes of the hill provide spice and richness.
Winemaking here is carefully done, but rustic. The wines undergo a slow fermentation in lined cement vats (very old school), and then rest for 12 months in vats of cement, and neutral oak. The blend for Cuvée Tradition is 50% Merlot, 25% Grenache, 25% Syrah. No fancy machines, no new oak barriques, and no gleaming stainless steel.
This wine is spicy and robust, with lots of cherry, raspberry and blackberry fruit, and lots of tobacco, leather, smoke and spice. Yet even with these brooding flavors, this is a great red wine for richer white fish, or for a cheeseburger, or with charcuterie and olives. Drink now – 2012.
(these are rustic producers, and don’t have their own website yet, so sorry for the lack of links and pictures)
Château Capion
Franc along with Syrah. The vines face Northwest (to limit direct sun exposure in this very hot region) and are further benefitted by the cooling influence of the nearby forest and the Gassac River. All of these factors allow them to keep the grapes on the vines for longer and produce more balanced and complex wines.