The Loire valley is full of nooks and crannies, and around every corner it seems like there is a new, and fascinating grape. Though it is the rare wine lover who hasn’t at least tried a Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé, or a Chenin Blanc from Vouvray, or a Cabernet Franc from Chinon, when was the last time you tried a wine made from Romarantin?
It’s likely you haven’t, as there are less than 100 hectares planted in the world, and they are all, as far as anyone knows, around the town of Cheverny in Touraine in the west-central part of the Loire Valley. The grape has been around since at least 1519, and it’s easy to figure out where it got it’s name: the town of Romarantin-Lanthenay is about 10 miles from Cheverny.
The way that the appellation works is that Cheverny is for blends of
Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc, and Cour-Cheverny is only for wines that are 100% Romarantin.
François Cazin tends vines of considerable age and the resulting yields are well below average in any given year. Since 1997, the wine has been bottled unfiltered by gravity. His wines have consistently been the top pick of the vintage at the annual Loire Valley wine show in Angers.
The wines tend to have powerful acidity and bright fruit, but also a richness that is often absent from Sauvignon Blanc. This one is full of beautiful ripe citrus, but also has a very herby character and lots of stoney minerality. Try it with poached chicken, salads and goat tôme (an aged Chevre that is common around the Loire). Drink now – 2010.
