Malbec

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2008 Domaine de la Rablais Côt, Touraine, Loire Valley, France

Wednesday, November 25th, 2009

After the French revolution the Foissier family regained control of their family vineyards. In 1939, when Andrew Fossier took over the family business while his father fought in the war, the family estate began expanding and producing better quality wines. in 1977 Antoine Simoneau, the son-in-law of Andrew Fossier took over the family business, and has been carefully refining the product ever since.

Côt, known as Malbec in Southwest Franc and Argentina, has a long, and somewhat dubious history in the Loire Valley. Because of the cool climate, wines made from Côt can be thin and vegetal, as opposed to deeply extracted and full-bodied as they are in other places. But when handled by experienced growers, and planted in the correct places, Côt produces a medium – full bodied red with hints of roast meat, tobacco and lots of bright black cherry and plum fruit.

Try this wine with duck, mushrooms, and aged goat cheese. Drink now – 2012

2005 Domaine de la Berangeraie Cuvée Maurin, Cahors, France

Tuesday, August 25th, 2009

Cuvee Maurin 05

I love Cahors!  These are powerful, rustic wines, and compared to Argentine Malbec, a very different expression of the grape.  Though they used to be called “black wines” because of the intensely dark color that own-rooted Malbec provided them, they rarely attain that level of darkness since they are mostly grafted onto other rootstocks to prevent phylloxera.  That said, the combination of fig, black plum and cassis, almost buried in a mix of earthy, herby, prickly other aromas, quickly allays any fears one might have about these being shy or delicate wines.

From Peter Weygandt (the importer of Domaine de la Berangeraie)-

In 1971 Andre Berenger came to Cahors from Provence with his wife Sylvie, who is originally from Champagne, and planted their vineyard near Grezels, on the red clay/iron stone soil known as Grezes. Their two children, Maurin and Juline not only joined them in the family business but so too have their respective spouses. Thus the three couples all work together and do everything in this twelve hectare domaine themselves – the pruning, the treatments of the vines ( all organic) and the harvesting all by hand (a disappearing practice in Cahors where harvesting is now done almost exclusively by machine).

Moreover, Juline, Maurin, and Maurin’s wife, Marlene, are all graduates of Oenology school as oneologists, diplomes . With this background, not surprisingly, their cuvees follow family names – Juline, a blend of 80% Malbec and 20% Merlot is the most elegant, with ripe fruit and soft tannins. It is aged solely in concrete (no oak) and bottled unfiltered for us. The Maurin is 100% Malbec, also concrete aged and unfiltered. In 2000 there is a new cuvee, Marlene, that is aged one-half in one year old barrique and the grapes come from one of their best parcels. These wines are proof that hand made artisnal wines of character, yet accessibility, are still being made in Cahors.

This wine typical of good Cahors, in that it sings with rustic intensity.  Firm tannins and great acidity frame the fruit and earth into manageable, if somewhat unruly package, and one really gets a sense that this wine is from somewhere!  Try it with a steak, roast duck, or an earthy dish of roasted root vegetables with plenty of herbs and fat. Now – 2015.

2006 Vinas de Vila Tinto Fundacion, Cruz de Piedra, Mendoza, Argentina

Monday, July 20th, 2009

Vinas de Vila Tinto Fundacion Label

Those of you who have been with us for a while will probably notice that I finally sent out a repeat this week.  It was bound to happen, because of my unscientific method of picking wines: I send the wines that I have tasted and gotten really excited about in the past month.  At least  I repeated a good one!  By the time I noticed, it was too late to change the shipments.  For those who have been with me since April when I sent this out last, I will send you a bonus bottle next month to make up for this.  In the meantime, enjoy this one.

The Vila family has been growing grapes in Argentina since colonial times. In an industry dominated by Italians and Basques this old Castilian family is a minority. Their vineyards cover several thousand acres. They have always been growers, not winemakers. Much of their acreage is under contract to large Bodegas, including some multinationals. Some grapes are sold on the spot market, crushed and sold as unfermented juice or (a small percentage) made into wine for bulk sale. All of the vineyards lie in the Cruz de Piedra area of Mendoza.

Six years ago the children (Pepe, Miriam, Susana & Sebastien) decided that they wanted to make and bottle wine. An impressive 400 acres of the best family vineyards were withdrawn from contract and turned over to them. Fernando’s son Pepe is the general manager. One daughter, Miriam, is in charge of sales. Last year’s winemaking team is gone, with Mónica Calderón replaced by a talented young graduate of the University of Mendoza, Sebastien Onofrio. Sebastien is ably assisted by yet another Vila sister, the energetic and dedicated Susana, while Miriam goes to another winery to work (at least for a Vinas de Vila Winerywhile) as a winemaker outside the family.

The emphasis here is squarely on value. The Vilas are interested in good and fine, not great wine. What sets them apart from many other mid-size Argentine Bodegas is their absolute passion for quality and the investment capital to make it happen.

Before the new project, winemaking for bulk sale took place in a large shed with barely adequate equipment. To make wine worthy of bottling, a vast old brick building was renovated and filled with modern equipment and oak, including both barrels and innerstaves.

Tinto Fundación is one of the world’s great wine values. It is composed of 50% Bonarda, 25% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. It is aged in a combination of 3 – 4 year old American oak barrels and innerstaves.   This is a great wine for hard to semi-soft cheese, stew, or pizza.  Drink now – 2012.

2008 Budini Malbec, Mendoza, AR

Saturday, June 20th, 2009

Budini Malbec LabelSome wines are special because they are made with obsessive care and attention to detail. Other wines are just darned-tasty. Though Budini Malbec is definitely a well-made wine, I have to put it in the darned-tasty category. This is proof once again that Argentina leads the world in the production of delicious wines at reasonable prices.

Budini is named after the wild Pampas cat of Argentina (Leopardus pajeros budini), a beautifully striped, nocturnal predatory cat that lives off of Guinea pigs, ground birds and chickens. Besides making a pretty label, I can’t come up with a good reason for this, except that marketing experts say that wines with animals on the labels sell 15% more than wines without.

The wine comes from the high-altitude (average of 3630 ft) vineyards of the Agrela and Consulta sub-regions of Mendoza in Argentina. The vines are acceptably old, with an average age of 25 years. And the winery makes an moderate 10,000 cases of this Malbec. (for comparison purposes, Beringer made 11,000,000 cases of white Zinfandel in a single vintage once). The wine spends 9 months in a combination of French & American oak barrels before being released on the market.

But it’s not the numbers that makes this wine taste good: it simply tastes good, awfully good, and sometimes that is all there is to it. It’s super fruity, a little oaky, and has enough structure not to be boring, yet there aren’t enough tannins or acidity to get in the way of slurping down a bunch of it. Try it with just about anything off the grill, or as an aperitif, or a night-cap, or for lunch, or breakfast. Drink now – 2010.

2007 Mills Reef Reserve Merlot/Malbec Gimblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand

Thursday, March 19th, 2009

merlot-malbec-07When most of us think about wine from New Zealand, we think about the zingy Sauvignon Blancs from Marlborough or the Pinot Noirs from Martinborough or Central Otago, but an small area called Gimblett Gravels, in Hawkes Bay on New Zealand’s North Island, produces amazing Bordeaux Varieties.    The weather hear is warm, and the maritime influence that plays such an important role in most of the rest of New Zealand is mitigated by mountains.  There is also a gravelly soil (hence the name) that retains daytime heat and helps with drainage, further encouraging ripe wines.  See the map below for a better idea of where Hawke’s Bay, and Mills Reef,  lie in relation to the rest of New Zealand.  Click on this link to see a map of  Hawkes Bay with Mills Reef Vineyards marked

Mills Reef is a family owned winery (there is also a restaurant) and father Paddy, and son Tim Preston are the primary winemakers.  They receive frequent awards, and Mills Reef is recognized as one of the premier producers of Gimblet Gravels wines.

Mills Reef Reserve Merlot Malbec consists of 55% Merlot and 45% Malbec, aged for 7 months in a combination of new and one year old oak that is both French and American.  Rich dark fruit, savory spices, and hints of olive and oak contribute to a complex, smooth wine with great balance and character.  Try this with roasted chicken, braised beef, flank steak, and roasted pepper dishes.  Drink now – 2012

new-zealan-map-from-mills-reef

2006 Tomero Malbec Uco Valley2006 Tomero Malbec Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina

Saturday, January 17th, 2009

tomerologoThis wine qualifies for the ugliest label award in this month’s shipment (thank goodness it tastes so good).

Tormero Malbec comes from the Finca Los Álamos vineyard at 1200 meters above sea level, in the Uco Valley, about 90 miles east of the city of Mendoza.  Antonio Pulenta began planting the 400 ha vineyard over 30 years ago, and as such, it is one of the oldest in the area.   There is a dramatic shift between daytime and nighttime temperatures (over 60° F in the summer) that ensures that though the grapes get ripe, they will maintain excellent acid balance and a good structure.  In fact, this is a nearly perfect place for wine grapes to grow.

Tomero Wines is the state of the art wine company based around the vineyards developed by Antonio Pulenta while his family still otormero-winerywned Trapiche.  Now, having sold Trapiche, his son Carlos is free to run the family estate with a total commitment to quality.

carlos-pulentaThe Tomero has been a key character in the vineyards in Argentina since 1833. Tomeros controlled the water supply for each district in the province and regulated the channeling of the meltwater from the Andes to make certain that every user receives his fair supply.  The tomero’s main tool was locks on the sluice gates of the irrigation channels that had been built into the vineyards.  By openning the gates for set amounts of time he could make sure to give each vineyard its rightful supply of water.

2006 Tomero Malbec is 100% Malbec that has been hand-harvested in multiple passes through the vineyards (over 18 days in 2006). 20% of the finished wine is aged for eight months in French oak barrels while the remainder stays in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks.  The wine is then blended, bottled, and aged for a further six months before release.   Though this wine mostly hovers on the fruity side of Malbec, it is no wilting flower: the color is an intense purple/magenta, and the nose is heady with baking spice, coffee, plums and blackberries.  The wine has powerful but smooth tannins, and a perfect balance of acidity and rich fruit.  Try this with rare red meat, cheese and root vegetables, but avoid Spicy foods, as the tannins will seem harsh, and multiply the spice.  Drink this wine from now – 2015.

2006 Vistalba Corte A, Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina

Friday, January 16th, 2009

vistalba-logoValle de Vistalba is a non-recognized sub-region within Lujan de Cujo, which is considered to be the best area in all of Mendoza for Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Rocky alluvial soils provide excellent drainage, and a dramatic diurnal (day to night) temperature shift, allow for the grapes to remain on the vines for extended periods, creating powerful, lush wines sacrificing crucial acidity or making overly alcoholic wines.  Also, because of the mountainous isolation and the ancient-style flood irrigation, Lujan de Cujo has largely escaped phylloxera, and many of the vines are planted on their original rootstocks.

Finca Vistalba, an estate owned by the Pulenta Family (of Trinchero), is made up of mostly Malbec, with some Cabernet carlos-pulentaSauvignon, Merlot and Bonarda, all of which have a minimum age of sixty years old, and all of which are planted on their original rootstocks.  After harvesting in small baskets, the grapes are brought into a state of the art gravity flow winery, where they are sorted and pressed, then fermented in separate lots by vineyard parcel and grape.  The wine is aged in new, medium toast French oak barriques (225 liter barrels).  While the wine is aging, the barrels are constantly tasted, and eventually a hierarchy arises.  The very few barrels that are at the top of the heap become Corte A.   This wine is aged for 18 months, then blended and bottled, and left to rest for 12 months before being released.

1,000 6-bottle cases of this is a sturdy, powerful wine, were made from 90% Malbec and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.  The nose explodes with cassis, black plum, grilled rare beef, black olives, and spicy, cedary oak. The structure is firm and elegant, and reminiscent of great Bordeaux, but the fruit is big and rich and unmistakably from the new world.  There is also a powerful mineral character that gives this wine serious class and a long, delightful finish.  For food pairings, think red meat, particularly grilled beef and roasted Lamb.  This wine will continue develop for another ten years, and drink well through 2025.  For more information about  2006 Vistalba Corte A

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