While it is somewhat of an oddity, this is one of my favorite sparkling wines of all time. The Szigeti family has made wine in the Neusidlersee region of Austria for generations, but it was only when the sons Peter and Norbert took over from their parents that the family began to produce Traditional Methode Sparkling wines from the wide variety of grapes that grew in their vineyards. The facility was designed with Champagne in mind, and the wines are made in much the same way, with the exception that the warm Panonian winds, and reflected sun from the giant, and shallow, lake Nuesidl ripens the grapes much more than the weather in Champagne.

The result is that the grapes show their varieties more intensely in these wines, and, surprisingly, that is good. In this case, we are drinking a champagne method sparkling wine made from Austria’s most famous, and often misunderstood grape Grüner Veltliner. The results are delightful. The wine is creamy, with a hint of white pepper and tons of citrus and peach along with layers of more subtle, more complex, aromas and flavors. And the texture is pure delight.

Try this with traditional Champenoise foods like fish quenelles, caviar, and oysters, but also with fried chicken, or even with a bitter green salad. Drink now – 2010.