This is the first of two Syrahs this month.  I thought a study of two styles, both of which I find stunning, would be a great rumination on why Syrah can be such a special wine.

Vincent Paris, whose first vintage was 1997, is as shy as his wines are bold. In his early 30’s, he has retro sideburns, but not much else in the Cornas appellation’s new star is “retro”. Vincent’s uncle is Robert Michel, one of Cornas’ finest growers. He made his two first wines with his uncle then, seeking autonomy, rented facilities for the vinification of his most recent wines. He is in the process of building his own winemaking facilities with a courtyard that holds his apricot plantation.

Vincent Paris, co-president of the appellation of Cornas with Jacques Lemencier, owns 6 hectares of vineyards and produces about 2,500cs per year of which 1,600cs are Cornas. He inherited most of his own vines from his grandfather (some of which are 90 years old) and has also rented some vines from his uncle. Vincent’s total rented and owned holdings amount to 8 hectares. They are located at different places primarily along the southeast facing Cornas slope and a small lot in St. Joseph.

He prunes to only four bunches of grapes per vine (the norm is between five and seven) which concentrates the vines’ growing power and cuts down on the need for green harvests. He ferments at relatively low temperatures and matures his wine in oak barrels for up to 12 months.

The Cornas Granit 30 and 60 designations refer to the soil, the approximate age of the vines, and the slope on which they are planted. The Granit 30 is concentrated black fruit in a relatively “consumer friendly”style – perhaps a bit more Syrah-ish than Cornas-ish, whereas the 60 is classic Cornas – dense, aromas of kidney and iron, with a terrific mineral underpinning.

This wine is dense and heady, and almost musky, but has enough rich, layered fruit to be attractive rather than weird.  This is a wine for game, venison, elk (ideal), squab, and for big blue cheese.  I recommend decanting it for a good hour before drinking it.  This is also a wine that will continue to improve for some time, and will probably begin to be at its best in 2 or 3 years.  Drink 2012 – 2018.