Riesling is an underappreciated grape in the United States.  In Germany, this is not the case.  Germany is unique among wine-producing countries in that its output, and reputation, are based almost entirely on one grape: Riesling.   Considerations of climate, tradition, and momentum all factor into Germany’s Riesling fanaticism, but the truth is that Riesling from Germany is also incredibly good.

Because of the cool climate in Germany, the main challenge, even with a white grape, is in getting them ripe, the Germans have instituted a system of classifications called Pradikats for their best wines, indicating how ripe the grapes were when they were harvested.  Kabinett signifies that the grapes were fully ripe, but not overripe.  German wines are also often a little (to a lot) sweet, which is necessary to balance the intense acidity of Riesling grapes grown in cool climates.  Though there has been a trend towards drier wines in Germany, it is not clear that these are necessarily better wines.

The Mosel River in Germany gives its name to the surrounding wine region, which is considered by many to one of the greatest places in the world for Riesling.  Steep slopes surround the river, allowing the vineyards to benefit from extra sun reflecting from the river itself, and from the better sun exposure that the slope affords.  The soil composed of slate, which in combination with the cool climate, makes wines with both powerful acidity and great delicacy.  Trittenheim, just north of the city of Trier, has two famous vineyards: Altärchen and Apotheke.

Freiderich Wilhelm Gymnasium was founded in 1561 by Jesuits in adjunct to their school, which still exists.  The vineyards were acquired as donations from the students’ parents.  The Cellars are in Trier, and though they are more than 400 years old, this is a very clean, modern facility, with the capability to produce excellent wines.  The estate is directed by Helmut Kranich, the former manager of Langwerth von Simmern.

This is a crisp, off-dry wine, with lots citrus, honeysuckle and tart stonefruit aromas.  It also has a little bit of maturity, so the diesel exhaust aspect of the aroma (a product of Riesling grown on slate soils) is beginning to kick in, in a very pleasant way.  The classic pairing for this wine would be with schnitzel (breaded pork or veal cutlets), but it goes wonderfully with anything salty and crisp.  This is a wine to drink now – 2010.