Sparkling Wine

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NV Domaine Martinolles Le Berceau Blanquette de Limoux, Languedoc, France

Monday, May 18th, 2009

Le Berceau LabelThis delicious little sparkler from Languedoc has been one of my restaurant go to wines for as long as I can remember.  It’s unusual in every way, starting with it’s exceptional history.  Though it’s claims have been mostly, but not totally convincingly, debunked, Limoux claims to be France’s first sparkling wine, claiming that monks from the abbey of St. Hilaire were making the methode ancestrale (this means that the wine doesn’t go through two fermentations, but rather is bottled during a pause in the original fermentation, which re-starts after the wine is bottles producing a soft froth, and a usually sweet wine – one of these might show up in a future shipment!) version of this wine back in the 1500 hundreds.  The only real proof is some letters from the King’s officer at the time ordering wine (though it doesn’t mention whether it is sparkling or not) for he King.

Historic or not, the trick here is the grape: Mauzac.  Mauzac is indigenous to the South of France, and its best use is in sparkling wine.  It ripens late, and therefore retains its acidity, even in the sunny climes of the Languedoc.  This wine is made using the Methode Traditionelle (Methode Champenoise), meaning that it is fermented dry, then yeast and sugar are added to the wine in the bottle to promote the secondary fermentation which produces the bubbles while the dying yeast cells (lees) are creating complexity and nuance in the relatively neutral base wine.

Blanquette de Limoux refers to the fully sparkling wines made from a minimum of 90% Mauzac (Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay are also permitted) in the Methode Traditionelle.  Cremant de Limoux refers to wines that are made from a Maximum of 10% Mauzac (the rest being Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Pinot Noir) using the Methode Traditionelle.  A third type, mentioned above, is Blanquette de Limoux Methode Ancestrale.

Domaine Martinolles Le Berceau is the real deal.  Made from 100% Mauzac, and aged on tirage for 2 years.  It has a delightful, rich mouthfeel, and aromas and flavors of green apples, lemon curd, grass and fresh herbs.  It’s perfect for a picnic, and goes with just about everything! Drink now – 2010

The Champagne & Sparkling Wine Society – February 2009

Thursday, February 19th, 2009

This month we stick close to home, never leaving France.  We begin with a light-hearted sparkler from Beaujolais, don’t laugh, it’s really good!  Then two excellent, Grand Cru Champagnes from small producers.  One made from mostly Pinot Noir form the Grand Cru of Aÿ, and the other all Chardonnay from the underrated Grand Cru of Oger.    All of this just in time for the Oscars!  a Champagne occasion if ever there was one. 

For all of the details, repleat with links, pictures and even a map (up in a couple of hours), click here

NV Domaine Hubert Clavelin Brut Comte Cremant de Jura, France

Friday, January 16th, 2009

brut-comte-labelLocated about thirty miles east of the Cote d’Or in Burgundy, Jura is far more famous for Vin Jaune (called such because of the yellow color that comes from seven years of aging in untopped barrels covered with a flor-like yeast).  But there have always been some moderately good sparkling wines from Jura.   So, when Hubert Clavelin and his sons noted that a limestone-rich portion of their vineyards looked remarkably like Champagne, and planted it with Chardonnay grapes, it wasn’t totally unheard of that they decided to make sparkling wine from it.

What was different was that they chose to make a top quality wine.  Domaine Hubert Clavelin et Fils makes nothing but the best .   The grapes are hand-harvested in open baskets, then whole-cluster pressed.  Only the free-run juice is used, with the vin de presse sold to less quality-minded merchants (a significant portion of vin de presse is permitted even in Champagne).  The wine is then aged for 24 months (15 more than the minimum, and 6 more than the minimum for Champagne) on the lees of its secondary fermentation.

The resulting wine is full and rich, with elegant flavors and aromas of toast, baked apples, lemon zest and honey.  The bubbles are elegant and lazy, and this is way better than many of the mediocre Champagnes from big name houses that I try on a regular basis.  Perfect for movie-theatre popcorn, fish, chicken and not a bad bet for mushroom dishes.  This is a wine to drink over the next year or two.  Drink 2009 – 2011.

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