Steiermark (or Styria) in Austria, is a wine region that doesn’t get much play outside of Austria, but it should. It sits on the Slovenian border, with roughly the same latitude as Burgundy, has similarly chalky soils to Sancerre, and is the Austrian home of Sauvignon Blanc. The other grape that performs exceptionally well here is the misnamed Welschriesling, which isn’t Riesling at all, but a grape native to Slovenia, Hungary and Austria that produces a rich, nutty wine with just enough acidity. Sauvignon Blanc is breathtakingly steely here, so the Welschriesling plays a useful role in softening up a bit, and adding some contrast to the cirtussy/minerally Sauvignon Blanc character with its nutty, peachy, baked fruit character.

Manfred Tement is considered, in Austria, to be the best grower in Steiermark. His vineyards sit along the Slovenian Border, and some are actually just over the border, in the foothills of the Julian Alps. Very much a family business, Manfred and his wife Heidi, Grandmother Edina and children Stephan and Armin all take part in the grape growing and winemaking. But this is one of those wines for which I hesitate to give you more information, because all you need to know is in the bottle.

About 60% Welschriesling, 30% Sauvignon Blanc, and 10% native Austrian varieties, such as Gelber Muskateller and Roter-Gewurztraminer, this wine is the perfect mix of crisp acidity and bright fruit, with rich, almost honeyed flavors. It’s a joy to drink, a goes with nearly any food. My favorite combos are halibut, or other substantial fish, simply prepared, just about any cheese (except blue), anything with leeks and cream (really, try this). Drink now – 2012