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2006 Convento Muri-Gries St-Magdelener, Suditrol, Italy

Monday, April 20th, 2009

Ancient door at Murie-GrisThe monastery that houses the Muri-Gries winery dates from the end of the 11th century, the Earls of Bolzano bid a stronghold to be built in the center of the former “Cheller” (literally cellar) where “Gries” is to be seen in these days. This fortress was expected to counterbalance the influence from the neighbour city of Bolzano carried out by the bishops of Trento.

Meinhard II of Görz-Tirol (13th century), who ruled this independent county, dwelled himself in the stronghold of Gries, which had been enlarged through a belfry erected itself some time before and preserved in the bell tower until today. Earl Leopold, who similarly ruled the county of Tirol, passed the fortress over to some homeless Austin canons, who had lost their monastery in “Au” because of a flood. It was therefore turned into a monastery. In the year 1416 a two nave gothic church was erected instead of the old chapel, but since 1788 the purpose of that room changed altogether, as a new baroque church was built.

Vineyards looking towards the monasteryIn the year 1845 Muri-Gries was born, as Benedectine monks from Muri in the Swiss county of Aargau were forced to leave their monastery and moved to one in Gries, which had meanwhile been quitted.  It was these Monks who turned the old Gothic Cathedral into a winery.  By the turn of the 20th century, they had a large portfolio of wines including Sankt Magdalener, Kretzer, Lagrein and Pinot Grigio.  Up until 1968 the winery had been selling mostly bulk wine, but that year they began to improve the quality by bottling the wine at the monastery and storing it in the ancient cellars.

Sudtirol Sankt Magdalener or Alto-Adige Saint Madellena DOC is an ancient area in Northeastern Italy that has been famous for the medium-bodied reds from Schiava (often blended with Lagrein, as it is here) grapes.  The wines are bright and a little rustic, with tons of juicy, tart fruit and even more character.  Mussolini called Sankt Magdalener on of Italy’s great wines, and though no one really has since then, it’s a really neat region.

This wine is roughly equal parts  Schiavo and Lagrein, with the Schiavo providing smooth, bright, high-strung fruit, and the Lagrein providing deeper, darker flavors.  This is a perfect wine for Roast Chicken, Meat Loaf and Pork Chops.  Drink now – 2011.

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