Syrah
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Wednesday, November 25th, 2009
Some months I get carried away with Spanish wine, some months I get carried away with Malbec, and some months I get carried away with Mourvedre. This month I got carried away with Grenache blends from France. I am continually reminded that Grenache, particularly when blended with its usual partners Syrah, Mouvedre, Carignan and Cinsault, is one of the most undervalued wine grapes in existence. This month, you’ll get to judge for yourself. All three of these wines are from less than 150 miles apart, but couldn’t be more different, or more delicious.
Mas de Boislauzon is one of the premier small producers of Chateauneuf du Pape. This wine comes from a small (really small) vineyard just outside of Chateauneuf, and is sort of an experiment for them. There is no oak ageing, and the wine is released 9 months after the vintage. Only three hundred cases are made and it sells out nearly instantly.
Made from 50% Grenache, the rest is Mourvedre, Syrah and Carignan. Try this wine with just about anything that isn’t spicy or sweet. Drink now – 2011.
Posted in Off the Beaten Path All Red - Nov '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Carignan, Grenache, Mas de Boislauzon, Mourvedre, Syrah
Tuesday, November 24th, 2009
This is one of those wines that transcends it’s place and it’s grape, and the people who make it, which, in this case, says a lot. This is a totally delicious, and hedonistically satisfying glass, and deserves to be served with no introduction.
However, it’s good to know, so here’s a little bit of info. The Sta. Rita Hills appellation is where Ron Melville and his sons Brent and Chad Melville decided to develop their estate vineyards and winery. Since then, they have also developed an interest in Rhone varietals, particularly Northern Rhone Syrah and Viognier. The Melville estate achieves quality through the integrity of its farming practice and its respect to the microclimate.
The winemaker is Greg Brewer, the central coast wunderkind responsible for the Brewer-Clifton wines. The wine sees moderate, and relatively short oak ageing. It is 80% de-stemmed, and 20% whole cluster pressed, and beyond that, there is nothing exceptional about the winemaking. Except the results.
Drink this wine with Texas style barbecue beef ribs, braised shortribs, or nearly anything meaty and a little sweet. Drink now – 2015.
Posted in Next Big Thing All Red - Nov '09, Next Big Thing Nov '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Greg Brewer, Melville, Santa Barbara County, Syrah, Verna's Vineyard
Wednesday, October 21st, 2009
That there are two wines in a single shipment from Chile’s Colchagua Valley should give you an idea about how I feel about this region. Ever since Pioneering Chilean Winemaker Aurelio Montés set up shop high in the mountains here, the region has been producing one good wine after the next.
Initiated in 1997, MontGras’ Ninquén Project was born of an appreciation for the unique properties of the specific terroir on Ninquén Mountain in Chile’s Colchagua Valley, and an ambition to forge a name for MontGras in the elite ultra-premium category. 222 acres atop Ninquén were dedicated to the venture and planted with a range of red grape varieties. With this move, MontGras became Chile’s first winery to plant atop the plateau of a mountain (Ninquén means “plateau on a mountain” in ancient local dialect).
Paul Hobbs, a leading California winemaker with an international reputation for developing world-class South American wines, works closely with owner Hernán Gras and winemaker Santiago Margozzini to craft the limited production Antu wines from the Ninquén Mountain Estate vineyard. The range takes its name from the word for “sun” in the language of the ancient Mapuche people who once inhabited this part of Chile.
A blend of 88% Syrah and 12% Cabernet Sauvignon for structure, this is one of those great wines that risks being forgotten because Syrah isn’t a well known grape from Chile. This wine is aged for 18 months in new French oak barrels, and is bursting with wild blackberry, pepper, grilled meat, smoke and baking spice . . . a real showstopper. Try it with barbecue ribs, chicken mole, or a hamburger. Drink now – 2016
Posted in Off the Beaten Path all red - Oct 09 | No Responses »
Tags: Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua, Hernan Gras, Ninquen, Paul Hobbs, Santiago Margozzini, Syrah
Monday, August 24th, 2009
The Alary family has been growing grapes and making wine in the village of Cairanne for eleven generations, or since the late 1600’s. But it is with the latest generation, led by Denis Alary, that the wines have begun to show their full potential. The majority of the family’s holdings lie on the best parcel of the Côtes du Rhône-Village of Cairanne’s land, called la Font d’Estevanas.
Though this is considered to be their 2nd best Cuvée, behind the very old vine Grenache cuvée called Jean de Verde, it is always the one that I find the most intriguing, probably because of the predominance of Syrah in the cuvée. The wine consists of about 60% Syrah, 
planted over forty years ago with cuttings taken from Hermitage, the remainder of the grapes are Grenache and Counoise, some of which are from vines that are over 100 years old. While the Syrah definitely marks the wine, this is unmistakably a wine from the Southern Rhône, and I would even go so far as to say that it is unmistakably a Cairanne.
Though it is always a favorite wine of mine, the vintage plays a giant role in this being part of The Next Big Thing selection. 2007 was a nearly perfect vintage, and the best in a string of excellent vintages beginning in 1998 (excluding 2002). A moist spring, followed by a very dry growing season (one of the lowest rainfalls on record for the period from June to September) 
accompanied by moderate temperatures (for the Southern Rhône at least) averaging just over 80° F and positive influence of the Mistral allowed for a long hang time, and grapes that retained a greater than average acidity. The resulting wines are deeply flavored, but feel light on their feet, with ample acid and silky tannins to support the dense fruit and alcohol. The acid also lets the minerality of these wines show through very clearly. Conditions like this favor wines with high portions of Syrah, such as this one.
Full of smoky blackberry and raspberry fruit, black and white pepper, and stony minerality, and following up with a devastatingly long finish, to say this wine complex barely begins to do it justice. Try it with grilled pork, anything with wild mushrooms (Cepes in particular) or with semi-hard cheeses. Drink now – 2020, with best results from 2012 onwards.
Posted in The Next Big Thing - Aug '09, The Next Big Thing All Red - Aug '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Alary, Cairanne, Counoise, Daniel et Denis Alary, Grenache, Syrah
Monday, July 20th, 2009
Cabardés sits directly west of Minervois, and just ten miles from the ancient walled city of Carcassone, perched atop the Montaigne Noire, at the place where Southwest France’s Atlantic climate and attitudes meet Languedoc’s Mediterranean climate and attitudes. As such, the grapes here are an unusual mixture of Bordeaux Varieties (min 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, min 40% Grenache and Syrah, and up to 20% Cot and Fer Servadou). As are the wines. No region embraces them warmly, though they are technically part of the department of Languedoc. Cabardés is also a recent appellation, though winemaking here goes back as far as anywhere in France, since 1998. The result is that no one knows about these delightful, and delightfully original wines.
Château de Jouclary is owned by Robert and Pascal Gianesini, who have been making exceptional wines from their 60 ha estate. Rather than use all of the permitted red grapes, they have focused on the three which they believe grow best on their property: Merlot, Grenache and Syrah. The Merlot makes up the majority of the wine, and provides the background, while Syrah and Grenache from the rocky upper slopes of the hill provide spice and richness.
Winemaking here is carefully done, but rustic. The wines undergo a slow fermentation in lined cement vats (very old school), and then rest for 12 months in vats of cement, and neutral oak. The blend for Cuvée Tradition is 50% Merlot, 25% Grenache, 25% Syrah. No fancy machines, no new oak barriques, and no gleaming stainless steel.
This wine is spicy and robust, with lots of cherry, raspberry and blackberry fruit, and lots of tobacco, leather, smoke and spice. Yet even with these brooding flavors, this is a great red wine for richer white fish, or for a cheeseburger, or with charcuterie and olives. Drink now – 2012.
(these are rustic producers, and don’t have their own website yet, so sorry for the lack of links and pictures)
Posted in Off the Beaten Path - July -09, Off the Beaten Path All Red - July '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Cabardes, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carcassone, Grenache, Jouclary, Languedoc, Pascal Gianesi, Robert Gianesi, Syrah
Sunday, July 19th, 2009
Collioure is the AOC for dry wines that come from the same tiny corner of Mediterranean Roussillon as Banyuls. In fact, Dr. André Parcé, Mayor of Banyuls, research chemist, and groundbreaking winemaker/owner of Domaine du Mas Blanc, campaigned for making Collioure its own appellation in 1971. Banyuls is the AOC for the delightful, if strangely made, sweet fortified reds from Mourvedre, Syrah, Grenache and Counoise . . . think of Banyuls as Madeira’s good looking redneck cousin. For the same reason that the area is perfect for Banyuls: it can produce exceptional, and exceptionally powerful still wine from ripe Mourvedre, Syrah, Grenache and Counoise that manage to maintain their acid and tannins because of the cooling influence of the Mediterranean. (click here to see a map of Roussillon)
Jean-Michel Parcé, Dr. Parcé’s son, has been responsible for the winemaking since 1977, and took over the entire estate upon his father’s passing in 1997. The estate consists of about 20 hectares of vines, planted on terraces of schist rising above the Mediterranean. Baked by dry sun in the summer, but mitigated by tramontane and mistral winds and the Mediterranean, the vines range in age from 30 to over 70 years old, and are farmed organically. The wines are bottled without fining or filtration.
This wine represents a true field blend: the 2.5 hectare vineyard, which is 900 meters from the sea, is planted to 60% Syrah, 30% Mourvedre and 10% Grenache, which is harvest and handled together. Upon harvesting, the grapes are destemmed, and then trodden by foot. They macerate on the skins for 15 days in temperature controlled tanks, and are removed to 3 year old barrels, where the wine ages for 12 months, after the fermentation is complete. 950 cases were made.
This wine exhibits a nearly magical combination of fruit, mineral, spice, and heady, meaty aromas and 
flavors, but it is the texture that sets it apart: powerful and rich, but with a freshness and lightness that are rare even in lighter wines, and powerful, but incredibly smooth tannins that are the result of the food trodding (the souls of our feet have the perfect amount of cushion to extract the most from the skins without crushing the tiny, brittle pips). Try this with duck, roast lamb, any game bird. Drink now – 2018
photos on this page by Stuart B. Cooper
Posted in The Next Big Thing - July '09, The Next Big Thing All Red - July '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Banyuls, Colliure, Dr. Parcé, Grenache, Jean-Michel Parcé, Madeira, Mas Blanc, Mediterranean, Mourvedre, Syrah
Sunday, June 21st, 2009
Château de Aussières, located in Corbières, has been making wine since Roman times. Following the fall of the empire, it remained in the hands of the Catholic Church until the French revolution, and was afterwards purchased at auction by Count Daru, minister and administrator of the private estates of Napolean Bonaparte. The estate continued to grow until the general decline of the market for Languedoc wines in the 1950’s. In 1999 The Domaines des Barons de Lafite Rothschild (owner of the Bordeaux 1st Growth Château Lafite-Rothschild). Under Rothschild ownership, the vineyards and winery have been undergoing constant rehabilition and renovation, and the quality of the wines, with the best winemakers in the world available to consult, has gotten extremely good.
A blend of traditional and non-traditional varieties, Cabernet 40%, Grenache 30%, Syrah 20%, Merlot 10%, the wine is 
aged 10% in new barrique, and 90% in vats, for eight months, then blended and bottles. Because of the Cabernet and Merlot, this can’t be a Corbières wine, and must be labeled as Vin de Pays.
The wine is medium-bodied, with a pleasant underpinning of tannins and acidity, that make the fruit seem more prominent against the spicy, smoky background. It’s easy to tell that there is really experienced winemaking and grape growing at play here. Try this with roast lamb, beets and celery root, or hamburgers. Though it can’t take anything really spicy, this wine can stand up to a mild dose of spice. Drink now – 2011
Posted in Off the Beaten Path All Red - June '09 | 1 Response »
Tags: Cabernet Sauvignon, Corbieres, Grenache, Lafite-Rothschild, Merlot, Napolean, Syrah
Monday, May 18th, 2009
The Southern Rhône Valley is, for me, like Greek mystic philosophy (I’m thinking Plotinus here): just when you think that you have a grasp on what is going on, the firmament shifts and the new level of understanding you have provides you with further questions that seem far harder to answer than the questions you originally had. The Southern Rhône, particularly Châteauneuf du Pape, has been one of my first, and most endearing, passions in wine. But each time I think that I have discovered the code that allows me to tell good from bad, and great from merely good, a wine comes along that breaks the mold entirely and introduces me to a new group of wines that are yet more profound, and less well-defined.
Two of these recent life-changing revelations are joined in Roucas Toumba. Vacqueyras, where Roucas Toumba’s meager 3 ha (about 7 acres) of vineyards are located is one such discovery. Vacqueyras is higher, stonier, and more remote (relatively) than Châteauneuf du Pape. The wines have more minerality, brighter fruit, and more of the Provençal herbiness that is such a charming character of wines from the southeast of France. Vacqueyras doesn’t get the love it deserves, in part because for many years the winemaking there didn’t do justice to the terroir: that is changing, quickly.
The other revelatory discovery I have made in the Rhône is a movement towards hyper-natural wine producing. In the case of Roucas Toumba, this means no chemicals in the vineyard or winery, no synthetic materials (read plastic), no commercial additives (chaptalization, acidity, tannins etc), and a minimum of new oak (he purchases a few barrels each year so that he can rotate them in). This approach is particularly suited to the Southern Rhône becase of the dry, windy, hot conditions that naturally control rot and other vine scourges, as well as the generally old vines that are in great supply.
Eric Bouletin, is the fiery proprietor of this family estate named Roucas Toumba, which means tumbling stones, after the 18th century home on the property. Out of the total production of 1100 cases, 300 cases of the top wine, this Vacqueyras, are made from roughly 60% Grenache (aged in large neutral oak), 25% Syrah (aged in small barrels), 12% Mourvedre and 3% white varities. Think blackberry, Cherry Heering, herbs de Provence, grilled meat, and minerals. Try it with grilled halibut, roast lamb, anything with mushrooms and herbs, or olives. Drink now – 2025.
Link to a great via Michelin article (in French, sorry) about Roucas Toumba
Posted in May '09, The Next Big Thing - May '09, The Next Big Thing All Red - May '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Eric Bouletin, Grenache, Mourvedre, Natural Winemaking, Plotinus, Rhône Valley, Roucas Toumba, Southern Rhone, Syrah, Vacqueyras
Tuesday, April 21st, 2009
Copain has been a favorite producer of mine for quite a while. And though Vigneron and co-founder Wells Guthrie gets a fair amount of press and often really great scores from the critics for his incredibly naturally made wines, they seem to stay just below the radar of most of the winedrinking world. These are wines that are cutting edge not because of technology, but because of lack of it. Wells is a winemaker who believes that if you have grapes from great sites that are treated well – which for him means organically grown with complimentary flora and fauna and not allowed to get overripe – you don’t need to make interventions in the winery. As a result, in stark contrast to many other winemakers, his wines are minimally oaked, and he never makes chemical interventions.
Is this the right way to make wine? Now you can decide for yourself. Though most of the Copain wines are produced from either Syrah or Pinot Noir, this is a rare Rhône style blend from an exceptional vineyard in Paso Robles.
Here is what Wells Guthrie says about James Berry Vineyard:
The vineyard is located in Westside Paso Robles out Hwy 46 about 12 miles from the ocean and Hearst Castle, as a crow flies. The proximity to the ocean helps regulate the high temperatures often associated with Paso Robles and is further aided by tremendous diurnal temperature variations. Peak temperatures can reach the low 100-degree range yet dive into the low 50s at night, allowing for the vines to recover. These large temperature fluctuations between high and low create a very desirable “sugar to acid ratio”. This, coupled with the high-lime, calcareous soils which do not allow for a lot of potassium absorption, keep pHs lower, even at elevated sugar levels, resulting in ripe fruity wines with a balanced underlying acidity. This vineyard’s attributes aid in my syrah winemaking technique of including 50% to 100% whole cluster, dependant on vintage.
The 2005 Les Copains is a cofermted blend of equal part grenache and mourvedre with roughly 15% syrah. The syrah was fermented utilizing 75% whole clusters and a portion of the grenache had 50% stems included. Aged in 600 Liter oak demi-muids.
A seriously classy wine. Lots of floral characters and blackberry fruit, accompanied by deep spice and earthy notes. Beautiful acidity and grainy tannins balance the rich fruit perfectly. Try it with Kasu Black Cod (trust me), Pork Belly and Southwestern Cuisine (up to moderately spicey). Drink now – 2018.
Posted in April '09, The Next Big Thing All Red - April '09, The Next Big Thing April '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Copain, Grenache, James Berry Vineyard, Les Copains, Mourvedre, Paso Robles, Syrah, Wells Guthrie
Tuesday, April 21st, 2009
Laurence Feraud is the genius behind Domaine du Pegau Châteauneuf-du-Pape. She is a brilliant vigneron and winemaker, and is one of the forces responsible for the great improvement in quality in the Southern Rhône over the last 20 – 30 years. However, her Châteaneuf is expensive and can be really difficult to get your hands on (it’s a perennial top-scorer in the wine rags). Lucky for us, Laurence isn’t satisfied with a single success. Here is what Dan Kravitz, her US importer says of her (and this wine):
Laurence Feraud is a force of nature, a little larger than life. She has more ideas in a day than many people have in a lifetime. What is most impressive is that she manages to act on most of them. Then when changes need to be made, they are made immediately with no backward glances. Not only is everything always in flux; Laurence, Paul and Mark are all overwhelmingly focused on the flavors of the wines they produce, and correspondingly underwhelmingly focused on the technical aspects. Blends are subject to change without notice. One cuve containing a mix of varietals may be substituted for another with a different mix if it is going to taste better. Calculation of the percentages of varietals involved is on the back burner. In fact it may never be done.
The wines are mostly Grenache, with a fair amount of Carignan and Syrah, and probably some Merlot, maybe Cabernet and maybe still a drop of Madeline Angevine. Much of it was aged for half a year in small oak barrels that are older than dirt. Total possible production of Plan Pegau is a maximun of about 4000 cases a year, of which 1500 – 2000 can come to the U.S.
One of the great things about this wine is that it has the character of the Châteauneuf, even if it isn’t quite as massive. It’s a great introduction to here truly unique style of wines. Fruit was sourced from numerous vineyard sites in the Southern Rhone (Nimes, as well as vineyard sites owned by Pegau, near Chateauneuf). the composition of the wine is 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Carignan, and 10% kitchen sink blend of other varietals (including Mourvèdre Merlot, Alicante, and Cabernet). The wines was fermented in temperature controlled concrete vats and aged 6 months in very old French oak barrels. It is Unfiltered.
Try this wine with White Fish (trust me), Roast Pork, Vegetables with Bacon, and hearty stews. Drink it now – 2012.
Posted in April '09, Off The Beaten Path All Red - April '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Carignan, Grenache, Laurence Feraud, Pegau, Southern Rhone, Syrah
Tuesday, April 21st, 2009
Here is a wine that epitomizes my goals with Extraordinary Wines From Off the Beaten Path. It’s not so much that the Languedoc is such an unusual region, but that this is a wine who’s entire reason to be rests in the idea that Cabernet Franc, a grape that isn’t supposed to be in the Languedoc, can make great wines there. The results speak for themselves. But even so, because no one is used to Cabernet Franc in this region, the wine sells for far less than it’s quality would suggest.
This is When brilliant young winemaker Jeff Carrel came to Languedoc many growerssolicited his services. Dominique Menjucq was impressed enough to offer equity in his substantial Domaine in return for first call on Jeff ’s time.
One of the things that impressed Jeff about Dominique was a shared conviction that Cabernet Franc could be better in Languedoc than either Merlot or Cab Sauv. Puydeval rouge is 60% Cabernet Franc, 30% Syrah, 10% Merlot. The wine is aged 8 months in one and two year old barrels. The result is polished, ripe and balanced.
This wine is full-bodied, with a great richness, and just hints of Cabernet Franc’s gamey bell-peppery character. Try this wine with Hamburgers, Roast Lamb, Blue Cheese and richly flavored dishes made with Farro. Drink now – 2012, maybe longer.
Posted in April '09, Off The Beaten Path - April '09, Off The Beaten Path All Red - April '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Cabernet Franc, Dominique Menjucq, Jeff Carrel, Merlot, Puydeval, Syrah
Friday, March 20th, 2009
For more than 200 years Domaine La Soumade has been in the hands of the Romero family, who continue to work the soil in the ancient traditions. It is Andre Romero who is producing minuscule amounts of some of the most amazing wines in the southern Rhone.
Domaine de La Soumade is situated in the commune of Rasteau, between Orange and Vaison-la-Romaine, with wonderful views of Mont Ventoux. The Domaine is composed of several parcels of land, the greater portion of which sits on stony hillsides with a total of 24 hectares.
But Romero is also a great student of wine, and keeps up to date on the most modern techniques from around the world. Self-taught and adhering to the virtues of low yields and extended fermentation, Romero has invested in an automatic pigeage system along Burgundian lines which ensures maximum extraction. The resulting wine is soft, yet sturdy, with berry flavours and a whiff of wood-smoke betraying its provenance. André is also, in large part, responsible for Rasteau getting it’s AOC status for still wine.
This blend of very old vine Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre is heady and powerful, with raspberry, white pepper, fig, cocoa, coffee, smoke and layers of jammy, intense fruit. Try it with Daube (Provençal stew of lamb and olives), barbecue pork, hard to semi-soft cheese and venison. Drink now – 2016.
Posted in March '09, The Next Big Thing - March '09, The Next Big Thing All Red - March '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Andre Romero, Confiance, Grenache, Mourvedre, Rasteau, Soumade, Syrah
Thursday, February 19th, 2009
This is the first of two Syrahs this month. I thought a study of two styles, both of which I find stunning, would be a great rumination on why Syrah can be such a special wine.
Vincent Paris, whose first vintage was 1997, is as shy as his wines are bold. In his early 30’s, he has retro sideburns, but not much else in the Cornas appellation’s new star is “retro”. Vincent’s uncle is Robert Michel, one of Cornas’ finest growers. He made his two first wines with his uncle then, seeking autonomy, rented facilities for the vinification of his most recent wines. He is in the process of building his own winemaking facilities with a courtyard that holds his apricot plantation.
Vincent Paris, co-president of the appellation of Cornas with Jacques Lemencier, owns 6 hectares of vineyards and produces about 2,500cs per year of which 1,600cs are Cornas. He inherited most of his own vines from his grandfather (some of which are 90 years old) and has also rented some vines from his uncle. Vincent’s total rented and owned holdings amount to 8 hectares. They are located at different places primarily along the southeast facing Cornas slope and a small lot in St. Joseph.
He prunes to only four bunches of grapes per vine (the norm is between five and seven) which concentrates the vines’ growing power and cuts down on the need for green harvests. He ferments at relatively low temperatures and matures his wine in oak barrels for up to 12 months.
The Cornas Granit 30 and 60 designations refer to the soil, the approximate age of the vines, and the slope on which they are planted. The Granit 30 is concentrated black fruit in a relatively “consumer friendly”style – perhaps a bit more Syrah-ish than Cornas-ish, whereas the 60 is classic Cornas – dense, aromas of kidney and iron, with a terrific mineral underpinning.
This wine is dense and heady, and almost musky, but has enough rich, layered fruit to be attractive rather than weird. This is a wine for game, venison, elk (ideal), squab, and for big blue cheese. I recommend decanting it for a good hour before drinking it. This is also a wine that will continue to improve for some time, and will probably begin to be at its best in 2 or 3 years. Drink 2012 – 2018.
Posted in February '09, The Next Big Thing - Feb '09, The Next Big Thing All Red - Feb '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Cornas, France, Old Vines, Rhône Valley, Syrah, Vincent Paris
Thursday, February 19th, 2009
For the second wine in our Syrah comparison, my favorite California Syrah, and one of my favorite wines of the last few years. This is a cult wine in the making if ever I saw one.
29 Songs is a bottling of 100% Syrah produced from a single, 1.7 acre block of vines located in the Southern end of the Napa Valley. Kelly Wheat, the winemaker and owner, has chosen the approximately 260 cases of this wine that he makes each year as the sole output of his own label. He works collaboratively with the vineyard owner, with whom he signed a long-term contract while the vineyard was still fallow, and is deeply involved in every aspect of his own tiny production.
Kelly Wheat says of his wine, “My goal with 29 Songs is to make a wine of intensity without allowing power to substitute for beauty. A wine of generous texture that also retains its structure. A wine that is allowed to reflect its cellar as well as its varietal identity. My winemaking decisions are always in service to those goals. They don not arise out of fear of what might go awry, but out of continuously seeking an understanding of the harmonies and complexities of growing and making wine. It is a life-long process.”
To me, it is everything good about Napa Valley wines, and about Syrah, and about small, artisan winemakers, all rolled into one. You’ve really got to try this wine to understand.
This is a big wine, but it has an absolutely uplifting structure that allows the oak, fruit and even, dare I say with a California wine, a bit of terrior to shine through. It is also a great wine for food. This is a wine that is stunning with lamb and wild game, but also with wet barbecue (Louisana style) and all manner of smoked or grilled things. Drink now – 2016.
Posted in February '09, The Next Big Thing - Feb '09, The Next Big Thing All Red - Feb '09 | No Responses »
Tags: 29 Songs, California, Kelly Wheat, Napa Valley, Syrah
Thursday, February 19th, 2009
Capçanes is actually the name of a Village, inland from Tarragonia, in the Priorato hills, in the wine region of Montsant (the Priorat region is situated like a hole to Montsant’s donut) on the Mediterranean coast of Spain. Prior to the outbreak of Phylloxera in the late 19th Century, the village was densely planted, but after Phylloxera, only about 1/5 of the previous vineyard area was re-planted, mostly to Garanacha (Grenache), and many of these original 100-plus-year-old vineyards still exist. About the time of the replanting, five of the families in the village banded together to create a cooperative to efficiently process the region’s grapes and sell them on the bulk market, the result was La Bodega Capçanes.
Around 1995, the local Jewish Community asked the cooperative to make a Kosher wine for them. This required an 
extensive investment in new equipment and a new focus on selection and quality, which, along with the success of neighboring Priorat inspired the cooperative to begin making a small amount of top quality wines. The Kosher wines are sold under the Flor de la Primavera label, and are consistently rated among the best Kosher wines in the world.
Mas Donis is made from 80% Grenache from 8 – 40 year old plantings around the village of Capçanes, and 20% Syrah from the same vineyards. The vineyards are located on a variety of soils, from low altitude, more fertile slopes, to higher altitude (450 meters), steeper slopes featuring the poor granite/slate soils that are common to the region. The warm Mediterranean climate gets the grapes fully ripe, and makes for intense, juicy wines. The Syrah is aged for three months in new oak barrels.
This wine is full of liqueur-like cherry and raspberry fruit, with hints of white pepper, smoke, and lilac perfume. The wine is lip-smackingly juicy, and surprisingly complex for such a “fun” wine. This is a great match for roast pork, even barbecue ribs, but it is also a surprisingly good pairing with all types of fish (if you like big red wine, and like fish, this is one of the best combinations you will ever find). Drink this wine now – 2012
Follow this link for a Spanish Wine Region Map in PDF format
Posted in February '09, Off The Beaten Path - Feb '09, Off the Beaten Path All Red - Feb '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Capcanes, Garnacha, Montsant, Spain, Syrah
Thursday, February 19th, 2009
Since my days at Campagne, I have always liked this wine, because it is so tasty, and because it really tastes like Syrah, even though it comes from the Languedoc, which isn’t known for the varietal character of its wines. Here is Peter Weygandt’s (the importer) description of the estate:
The 1991 Corbieres of Guilhem Durand received a review in The Wine Advocate of 88 points. It was 70% Syrah. In 1993 Durand lost his property but has been able to get it back. The 1994 vintage was his first, since reacquisition, and our selection had an even higher proportion of Syrah-virtually all Syrah. Therefore, since one is not allowed to state the varietal in conjunction with appellation Corbieres (under French Law), Durand and I have “de-classified” his Wine to Hauterive, and can thus state Syrah on the label. And it is certainly oozing with Syrah-deep purple, extracted color, loads of fruit, ripe, soft tannins, and great texture, all due at least in part to not filtering.
The grapes come from relatively young vines planted on quartz soils with lots of stones and pebbles that help to reflect the heat of the sun well into the evenings. The wine sees no oak ageing, and very little is done to it, except to let it ferment and settle, perhaps this is why the wine is so good!
Though this is a wine capable of aging for a few years, it is delicious now, and I would have trouble saving any that was in my cellar. Pair this with daube (Provençal Lamb Stew with olives) or with duck or another full-flavored poultry. It is also great with wild mushrooms and wild rice (now you know what I had for dinner last night). Drink this now – 2015
Posted in February '09, Off The Beaten Path - Feb '09, Off the Beaten Path All Red - Feb '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Corbieres, Domaine la Bastide, France, Guilhem Durand, Syrah
Thursday, February 19th, 2009
For more than 40 years, the Harvey family has been growing premium quality wine grapes. In 1996, they also started producing premium wine at Chalk Hill. The grapes in Chalk Hill wines are primarily sourced from four family-owned vineyards in the McLaren Vale district, 40 kilometres south of Adelaide in South Australia. McLaren Vale’s Mediterranean type climate of cool, wet winters and warm, dry summers provides perfect growing conditions for premium grapes. Because of the eminent Sonoma County winery with the same name, the wines are marketed in the United States under the name Wit’s End.
The winery describes the wine perfectly, so rather than muck it up, here is what they say:
Sidetrack is an easy drinking full bodied wine packed full of jammy fruits and great oak integration. The Sidetrack gets its name from John Harvey, and his ability not to finish one task before something more interesting arises. Sidetrack is a blend of 60% Shiraz 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Grenache and was aged in a mix of old and new tight grain French Oak. The wine has a deep plum red colour, with a lifted berry fruit and caramel on the nose. The strong varietal fruit characters on the palate are supported by peppermint, chocolate and some earthy flavours, with a persistent finish. The wine will develop further in the bottle and with good cellaring will be enjoyed through to 2015. Wines sealed under screw cap will benefit from decanting prior to drinking.
Drink this wine with a salty snack, a piece of blue cheese, a grilled chicken, or Thai food, it’s that flexible. It’s also worth noting that wines closed in a screwcap, especially reds, benefit from a rough decanting (splash it around) before drinking.
Posted in February '09, Off the Beaten Path All Red - Feb '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Cab, Chalk Hill, Grenache, McClaren Vale, Shiraz, Syrah, Wit's End
Sunday, January 18th, 2009
Côtes du Ventoux is the name for the large and diverse area in the Southeastern corner of the Rhône Valley that ecompasses all of the land affected by Mount Ventoux, by far the tallest and largest geographical feature in the South of France. Because of the cold air sliding down the sides of the mountain, this area is cooler and sees more rain than neighboring areas of the Rhône and Provence, and has much cooler nights after the still-blisteringly hot days in the middle of the summer. The area is also sheltered from the Mistral (the cold, persistent wind that blows from the north down the Rhône Valley in the fall, winter 
and spring and stunts the growth of everything). The resulting wines are similar to those in the rest of the Rhône, but with more delicacy and fresher fruit.
Caravinserail is a second project of Raphaël Trouiller, the proprietor of the currently very in vogue, biodynamically farmed, Domaine de Cascavel also in the Côtes du Ventoux. Raphaël has almost single-handedly made the Côtes du Ventoux a sought-after wine region by making beautiful, hand-crafted wines from old vines, with catchy names (and big price tags). With Caravinserail, he has taken the same formula, using younger grapes and less respected varieties, and only a little less flash, and come up with something that is also incredibly delightful. The names of the wines, in fine, mean “to conclude” in Latin, and it’s almost as if he is saying to all of the other winemakers, after his wild success at Domaine de Cascavel, “and to conclude: even using young vines and inferior grape varieties I can make great wine from this region. What have you been doing?”
in fine rouge is made from 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah from younger vines on Trouiller’s Domaine de Cascavel estate. The grapes are farmed entirely biodynically. in fine is aged in traditional concrete tanks rather than oak, and bottled 8 months after fermentation is complete. The wine is full of fresh red fruit, peppery spice and dried herb characters. This is a medium bodied red with lots of spunky character that is wonderful with fresh (read semi-soft) cheeses and lighter meats like pork, white fish, and charcuterie. Though it is not meant for aging, this wine won’t die early either. Drink now – 2012.
Posted in January '09, Off the Beaten Path All Red Jan '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Caravinserail, Grenache, in fine, Raphael Trouiller, Syrah, Ventoux
Saturday, January 17th, 2009
The Elquí Valley is the Northernmost quality wine region in Chile. The dizzying altitude of the vineyards (up to 6,000 
feet above sea level) provide the cool climate that makes powerful, complex, vibrant reds, and near dessert conditions which further challenge the grapes (this is good!). The region is also beautiful: a picturesque river valley, high in the Andes.
Chono is a product of the imagination of Alvaro Espinoza, Chiles leading organic winemaker, and his father, Juan Espinoza, also a leading enologist in Chile. The winery is based in Chile’s Maipo Valley, but sources grapes from organic vineyards all over the country that are ideal for their particular grape variety. Alvaro has worked all over Chile, but also in Bordeaux at Château Margaux, and in California at Fetzer and Bonterra, where he discovered organic and biodynamic winemaking, and realized that they were perfect for the dry, virtually pest free climate in Chile. Since returning, he has come to lead 
or consult for many of the best wineries in Chile. Chono is different, because is his own, and the love is very apparent. The winery is named after the ancient Chono tribe that lived in the area.
100% percent Syrah from organically farmed vineyards in the Elquí Valley, the Chono Syrah is really stunning. Rich, complex and layered, with loads of blackberry, smoke, and roasted bell pepper (this is that off the map flavor I was talking about, and I really like it), this is both delicious, and really well put together. Great acids, great tannins, and a long, memorable finish. Think about this wine for roasted vegetables, wild mushrooms, grilled or smoked meats, and Asian foods that combine a little heat with a little sweetness. Though this wine will last for a few years, it won’t get any better. Drink now – 2012.
Posted in January '09, Off the Beaten Path All Red Jan '09, Off the Beaten Path Jan '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Alvaro Espinoza, Chile, Chono, Elqui Valley, Syrah
Saturday, January 17th, 2009
Château Capion is located in the Languedoc, between the towns of Gignac and Aignan in the Gassac River valley, near the medieval village of Saint Guilhem le Desert. The wines would qualify for the more prestigious AOC of Coteaux du Languedoc, except that the winery has chosen not to use the permitted grape varieties, and instead use Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet 
Franc along with Syrah. The vines face Northwest (to limit direct sun exposure in this very hot region) and are further benefitted by the cooling influence of the nearby forest and the Gassac River. All of these factors allow them to keep the grapes on the vines for longer and produce more balanced and complex wines.
Though Château Capion dates to the 16th Century, the first record of ownership dates to 1873, and a Monsieur Louis Keittinger who is reported to have built “massive cellars” and erected “multiple outbuildings”. In 1888 Cardinal Monseigneur du Cabrieres consecrated a Chapel on the property, which is still used by the current owners. In 1996, the Swiss Buhrer family purchased Château Capion, and spent the next ten years updated the facilities and vineyards with the goal of creating a state of the art winery. The Buhrers also lovingly restored the impressive château in which they now live. The farm occupies over 186 acres, of which about 111 acres (45 ha) are planted to grapes and farmed organically, with thoughts towards preserving the natural yeast on the outside of the grapes to use for natural fermentations. The yields in the vineyards are particularly low, from 1.5 to 3.2 tons per acre.
Another great wine, 2006 Château Capion Cuvée 1C provides a perfect balance between rich fruit, supple oak, spice, and earth. The wine is made from 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 15% Merlot, with an average vine age of 25 years. The wine is aged for 14 months in a combination of new, one and two year old French oak barrels. A wonderfully flexible wine, try this with pork chops, grilled or roasted chicken, sweet potatoes, or blue cheese (actually, any cheese).
Posted in January '09, Off the Beaten Path All Red Jan '09, Off the Beaten Path Jan '09 | No Responses »
Tags: Cab, Capion, Languedoc, Merlot, Syrah
