Zinfandel

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2005 S.E. Chase Family Cellars Hayne Vineyard Zinfandel St. Helena, Napa Valley

Monday, August 24th, 2009

Chase Hayne LabelDescendants of Sarah Esther Chase have been growing grapes since the late 1800’s in the area around St. Helena, but began making wine under the SE Chase Family Cellars Label in 1998. Though they began wine growing by purchasing the Madrona Estate in the late 1800’s, and eventually building Greystone Cellars (which is now home to the Napa Valley campus of the Culinary Institute of America), the family’s vineyards were wiped out with the rest of the Napa Valley by the phylloxera epidemic of 1894.

Sarah Esther Chase BournIn 1903 Sarah’s daughter Maude and her husband William Alliston Hayne planted the Hayne Vineyard and continued the family’s tradition of grape growing. This wines comes from the original planting of 1903 Zinfandel, head trained, on St. George Rootstock. The gravelly soil, and slope of the vineyard, along with the exceptional age of the vines make it on of, if not the best, Zinfandel Vineyards in Napa Valley.

The family only began making their own wine in 1997, and though every vintage has been a revelation, they have remained inexplicably under the radar. That will change. Thi wine is aged for 20 Months in a combination of new and used French Oak. Only 1247 cases are made.

This wine is characterized by a unique combination of big, spicy blackberry and raspberry fruit, wonderful acidity, and a pleasantly firm tannin all rounded out by a pleasant, but not overwhelming hint of oak. Try it with duck, salmon or pork loin, and don’t be afraid of a little sweet or spicy in the dish, the wine can stand it. Drink now – 2015.

2005 Sinfarosa “Zinfandel” Primitivo di Manduria, Puglia, Italy

Wednesday, May 20th, 2009

SinfarosaPrimitivo, an Italian grape variety, is genetically identical to Zinfandel, an American grape variety.  To make the story more interesting, scientists are convinced that Primitivo arrived in Italy after Zinfandel arrived in the United States (1820).  Recently, simultanious research in Croatia and at the University of California, Davis concluded that both are decendents of the Croation grape called Crljenak (thank goodness we changed the name!).  About the same time that this research was published, the TTB (the government body in the US that determines what cango on wine labels) decided that Primitivo and Zinfandel could be interchangeable on wine labels for sale in the US. (Follow this link to a fascinating article summing up Zinfandel’s history)

But despite it’s genetic similarity (or identicality I guess), I find that Primitivo is decidedly different wine than a California Zinfandel.  Particularly a good Primitivo like this one.  While Zinfandels are full of rich, sometimes jammy fruit: Primitivos have more baked characters, less herbaceous characters, and more spicey secondary aromas than Zinfandels.  But they also share a soul: both are big, hearty, alcoholic wines that rarely have too many tannins.  Primitivo Vineyard

Puglia, the spike heal of Italy’s boot, has been greatly improving it’s lot in the wine world.  Because it was so easy to grow grapes here, Puglia has been a source of high-yielding and easy drinking, if not particularly profound, wines since the late Roman era.  But in the last 10 or 15 years, the scene has begun to change, producers are slowly lowering their yeilds, and attempting to match grapes with vineyards, and even producing some really delicious wines.

This is one of them.  Sinfarosa is produced by the Academia de Racemi from a vineyard of 70+ year old vines that overlook the ocean, in the superior growing region of Manduria, it boasts rich red fruit that is nearly subsumed by the heady, spicy mix of other flavors that are the defining character of this wine.  try it with pizza, red sauce, and bollito misto.  Drink now – 2012

2006 Hendry HRW Zinfandel Napa Valley, California, USA

Tuesday, April 21st, 2009

Hendry LabelHendry Ranch is an amazing place.  The 117 acres of gorgeous vineyards located between 160  and 290 feet in elevation on the Western edge of the Napa Valley, just North of Carneros.  The soils is stoney and dry, and particularly inhospitible.  The Hendrys will Hendry's location in Napatell you that the majority of the work that they do is in the vineyards, and the results of their efforts definitely show.  Hendry wines have a breathtaking structure, and a very clear minerality.  They are both hedonistic and intellectual at the same time.

This is what The Hendry’s say about this wine:

Grapes for the HRW series wines come from our vineyard estate, as they do for all of our wines. The grapes we use for the HRW are individual blocks or barrels that for one reason or another do not have the complexity we require for our Hendry label, but are very nice every day drinking nonetheless (and too good to sell off to someone else). In some vintages we make one variety, in others, several, and sometimes we make none at all. The production is generally small. This wine is a blend of the barrels that were not included in the Block 7&22 Zinfandel or Block 28 Zinfandel.

Hendry VineyardThe alcoholic fermentation was completed in approximately ten days in closed stainless steel fermentation tanks. When the wine was fermented completely dry, it was pressed to barrel for malolactic fermentation. Aging was twelve months in French oak barrels of which approximately 10% were new, with the remaining barrels 1, 2 and 3 year old barrels from our zinfandel program. This wine has a round mouthfeel and blackberry and floral aromas. Spicy, smoky currant and berry flavors on the palate with just enough soft tannins to do battle with dry-rub barbecued ribs or chicken. The tannins are substantial but not overly drying. The alcohol is 15.4%.  1050 cases produced.

That this is the wine that doesn’t make it into their premier zinfandels only says how amazing of a vineyard this is, because this is a delicious wine, and it is a wine that is a little easier to drink right away than the more austere wines from the single blocks.  Try this with BBQ ribs, Carne Asada, Grilled Chicken, and even Salmon on the Grill.  Drink now – 2012

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